Max tongue weight on a 2500.

[bdc2]

Is a class v hitch rated at 1800 lbs. I was looking at the reveal on my bumper and the hitch appears to flex to where the bumper reveal is closer on the bottom side than the top by quite a bit. Is it normal? I cant imagine I'm at 1800 lbs tongue weight but maybe I am.

 

[PaulTGarrett]

Um... A Class 3, 4, or 5 hitch should not be connected to the bumper. If you're loading your hitch and the bumper moves... Somethin' ain't right!

Not saying you may not already know, but just because a hitch has a 2x2 receiver doesn't make it anything other than a 2x2 receiver. The mounting for that little 2x2 hole has to mount solid to the frame, not the bumper/body. And for a Class 5 hitch, that should be one big honkin' solid frame mount.

And a Class 5 hitch is rated at 2550 max tongue weight.

 

[bdc2]

Um... A Class 3, 4, or 5 hitch should not be connected to the bumper. If you're loading your hitch and the bumper moves... Somethin' ain't right!

Not saying you may not already know, but just because a hitch has a 2x2 receiver doesn't make it anything other than a 2x2 receiver. The mounting for that little 2x2 hole has to mount solid to the frame, not the bumper/body. And for a Class 5 hitch, that should be one big honkin' solid frame mount.

And a Class 5 hitch is rated at 2550 max tongue weight.

I should of been clearer. The factory hitch is the piece of tubing that raps around the spare tire and welded to each side of the frame and it also supports the weight of the bumper. After taking the trailer off I lost the sag on the the passenger side, but not completely on the drivers. I'm wondering if taking a brace out for the amp step has anything to do with it. Still curious what our trucks are rated at for tongue weight.

 

[olyelr]

I should of been clearer. The factory hitch is the piece of tubing that raps around the spare tire and welded to each side of the frame and it also supports the weight of the bumper. After taking the trailer off I lost the sag on the the passenger side, but not completely on the drivers. I'm wondering if taking a brace out for the amp step has anything to do with it. Still curious what our trucks are rated at for tongue weight.

Well, tongue weight should certainly not excede the payload rating. Which also drops with the weight of stored stuff in the bed/cab as well as people.

 

[bdc2]

 

[crash68]

a Class 5 hitch is rated at 2550 max tongue weight.

The factory 2.5" Class V receiver is only rated for 1800/18K lbs
As with all the Class of receiver hitches, the maximum tongue weight is when using a WDH.
Despite what some people think about towing with a HD truck, but WDH still needed.

 

[PaulTGarrett]

The factory 2.5" Class V receiver is only rated for 1800/18K lbs
As with all the Class of receiver hitches, the maximum tongue weight is when using a WDH.
Despite what some people think about towing with a HD truck, but WDH still needed.

Agreed. I just did a Google on the hitch classes and that is what a C5 is specified at. I have no idea of what the OEM hitch is rated for. I have the OEM Class 3 and use a gooseneck for anything over that. Of the few pages I looked at, I'm not sure that the weight ratings are with the use of a WDH. Unless otherwise specified by the hitch manufacturer, of course.

 

[PaulTGarrett]

I should of been clearer. The factory hitch is the piece of tubing that raps around the spare tire and welded to each side of the frame and it also supports the weight of the bumper. After taking the trailer off I lost the sag on the the passenger side, but not completely on the drivers. I'm wondering if taking a brace out for the amp step has anything to do with it. Still curious what our trucks are rated at for tongue weight.

I don't think the AMP step brace removal would have anything to do with it, all of the AMP is forward of the rear axle. I have an aftermarket ranch-style rear bumper so I can't go underneath to see what braces are where. But I still call foul ball on your bumper moving around when you apply/remove weight from your hitch. I think I would take the truck to a tire dealer, a UHaul, or some other shop with a lift and have them get out a torque wrench on all of your hitch bolts. Or get under it yourself if you're so inclined. Also make sure that if there is a hole, there is a bolt in it. Maybe something is just loose enough to allow movement.

I just can't see how your trailer hitch, which should be installed separately onto the frame from the bumper/body, is moving the bumper.

 

[bdc2]

I don't think the AMP step brace removal would have anything to do with it, all of the AMP is forward of the rear axle. I have an aftermarket ranch-style rear bumper so I can't go underneath to see what braces are where. But I still call foul ball on your bumper moving around when you apply/remove weight from your hitch. I think I would take the truck to a tire dealer, a UHaul, or some other shop with a lift and have them get out a torque wrench on all of your hitch bolts. Or get under it yourself if you're so inclined. Also make sure that if there is a hole, there is a bolt in it. Maybe something is just loose enough to allow movement.

I just can't see how your trailer hitch, which should be installed separately onto the frame from the bumper/body, is moving the bumper.

The amp bed step you remove bracing from the bumper to install. The trailer hitch is part of the frame and supports the bumper.. The bumper is bolted to the traditional frame but the bumper brackets are light weight and don't appear to be able stand alone without the weight support of the hitch.. I think I'm just overly nervous because I tore a class IV off of the last generation ram. I don't know how the class v is connected, if its bolted or welded or what. The class IV was 4 bolts into the crossmember and then 2 into the bumper.

 

[olyelr]

These ones are also bolted.

 

[Elkman]

A Class V hitches are rated for up to XXXX tongue weight and it should be stamped on the side of the hitch. On my 2500 truck the hitch is rated for a tongue weigh of up to 1500 lbs and a trailer weight of up to 13,000 lbs. with a ball hitch.

Important to verify that the ball is rated for the trailer load as well. A 2-5/16" ball should be OK but not necessarily a 2" or smaller ball as many of these are rated for 2000 to 3500 lb trailer loads.