Motor Swap Question

[Txdrewski]

I should also mention my goal here is not to create a HP/TQ monster lol. My trucks lifted and I run 35 to 37 inch tires. I LOVE this truck. Ive always wanted a single cab lwb 4x4 and I finally have one. I want to be able to enjoy it for several years and pass it along to my son. Im trying to get some longevity out of the engine while upping the performance. Im not looking for a 400HP truck....Well, not out of this one... When I buy a genII Single cab SWB 2wd.... Probably lol.

 

[Merc225hp]

Oh wow man thanks for all the info. Thats going to save me some time and $$$. Do you have a # or email to a place I can order the M1 From? I have the EGR type intake. I was looking into running Harland Sharp 1.7 RR, but I was honestly just looking at a set of these from Titan Engines New Dodge Chrysler Jeep Magnum 5 9 360 Loaded Cylinder Heads | eBay

Thicker casting and complete heads, shipped for 560 seems to me thats a pretty good deal. Not sure now, you guys think 1.7 RR and an aftermarket set of heads is worth all the extra $$?

Ive already ordered a wide band 02 guage so I have that covered. Ordering the ECU tonight since I know id kick myself for not having one after I got everything together lol. Any reccomendation on a place to get the cam?

I would get new heads from who ever, some get them from Odessa on ebay. I have no experience with either company. As long as they are thicker casting that a good start.

For the 1.7 rr's I would get the 1.6 rr's, there is still power/tq to be gained by using them, parasitic loss is the main reason for going to rr's the extra lift is just a bonus.

Link for intake sites. I just got mine through my Dodge dealer.

The Moparts Connection Performance Parts - Discount Prices Main Index

Mopar Parts|Restoration Parts|Mopar Performance Block Parts|Jim's Auto Parts

I am partial to Crane Cams for the Magnum motors, they made all of Mopars Hp cams.

More Mopar parts numbers for you.

P5007709 Timing chain tensioner $31.95
P5249267 Double Roller Chain and Sprocket Set $62.50
P5249862 Magnum roller lifters one set of 16 $117.50
P4876249 Engine Teardown Gasket Set (5.9L Truck Magnum) $114.95 Some of the best gaskets I have ever used.

 

[Txdrewski]

I cant thank you guys enough for the help and support, I usually dont pay for a forum membership but it only took me a day on here to read through some stuff and realize that this site is the real deal, and all the information/experiance contained in it, and the people willing to dedicate time to helping are worth every penny spent to join. Seriously, thanks guys.

 

[Merc225hp]

Yep Rf is a great forum with lot's of smart people to help.

Two Crane Cams I would suggest you look at. Part numbers; HR-208/292-2S1-10 and the 2030. Going to a bigger cam you should look at getting a set of hardened pushrods, same length as stock will be fine.

 

[Txdrewski]

Two Crane Cams I would suggest you look at. Part numbers; HR-208/292-2S1-10 and the 2030.[/QUOTE]

I literally just ordered the 2030 lol.

 

[Merc225hp]

I think you will be very happy with your end results. That cam is a nice mellow sound to it, just a little rumble that's it. The Mopar pcm is just plug and play and can be installed in minutes, you don't have to have mods to use it.

So any plans on a gear change for the diff's 35-37's and I would guess 3.55 stock gears.

Edit: Check to see if a new key-stock (timing gear to cam) is needed with that cam, something tells me you need a different thickness one, you might drop Crane an email asking them.

 

[Txdrewski]

So any plans on a gear change for the diff's 35-37's and I would guess 3.55 stock gears.

My stock gears actually do pretty good, I have 35's now and the truck is alot more responsive and less laggy on the hwy than my Z71. However after I get the 37's (Goodyear OZ Military Spec), Ill see how it does. But at 75 on the hwy, Im at 1900 RPM. My Z71 with stock 373's and 33's is at 2200 at 75mph... So I kinda wonder if someone did a gear swap already. I checked the speedometer with GPS, the dash is about 4mph off. I would have expected a little bit more. Its getting the same hwy MPG (14-15) as the Z71 as well.

Edit: Check to see if a new key-stock (timing gear to cam) is needed with that cam, something tells me you need a different thickness one, you might drop Crane an email asking them.[/QUOTE]

Ill call them tommorow about that. Do you still think I need the hardened push rods with that cam?

 

[dodge dude94]

Just remember, pictures and videos when done.

These trucks usually come with 3.55 gears in them stock, so that's likely what you have.
Mine runs about 2k with my 33's

 

[Txdrewski]

These trucks usually come with 3.55 gears in them stock, so that's likely what you have.
Mine runs about 2k with my 33's[/QUOTE]

When I bought the truck, it had a pro comp lift on it already, and the severly worn out Buckshot 35 's. Im at less rpm than you are, with larger tires at 75.. Im kinda leaning toward somebody already did a swap on the diffs.

 

[dodge dude94]

When I bought the truck, it had a pro comp lift on it already, and the severly worn out Buckshot 35 's. Im at less rpm than you are, with larger tires at 75.. Im kinda leaning toward somebody already did a swap on the diffs.

Nooo, if somebody changed the gears out, you'd be running a HIGHER rpm then me. Larger tires lower the engine rpm at all speeds. I guarantee you that if you were to slap 245s on that truck right now you'd be sitting at closer to 2300rpm at 75.

 

[Txdrewski]

Ahhhh okay okay I follow you. I suppose since the truck doesnt seem to struggle with the 35's ill leave the gears alone. I do more hwy than city driving, and if my RPM went up on the hwy with higher gears, I assume id lose some mpg.

 

[dodge dude94]

Actually the opposite is true. We live in Texas, we have hills. Therefore when you're lugging down low (under 2k rpm) your truck has to down shift into passing gear (2nd). When it keeps doing this, it puts way too much wear on the transmission and heats it up. Then voila! Transmission failure.

Besides that, when you're constantly shifting into 2nd, that engine is getting revved up to close to 3500 rpm sometimes. Thereby sucking gas.

So no, you don't want 3.55s for 35in tires at all. You need 4.10s at the bare minimum, preferably 4.56s as those will put you closer to the stock gear ratio. 37s will need 4.88s.

And once you get up to 37s, ditch the half ton axles and get D60s. lol

 

[Txdrewski]

Now I see the true agenda of this site.... To get me to spend way too much money on an almost 20 year old truck....My Z71 is going to be soooo jealous.... My GF is going to be soooo pissed.... But.....

Im SOOOOO gonna do it anyway lol. Ive already looked into PATC's Viper stage II. Shreveport is a smooth hour and a half from me. I will likely invest in the tranny and gears at the same time, get all the $$$ spent at once and optimize the downtime.

 

[dodge dude94]

We never said we WOULDN'T make you spend money.

I say run it til it croaks, get the Viper II installed, then get 4.56s or just D60 axles and 4.56s.

You're looking at around $12-1500 for gears installed more than likely. And please do tell where you get them installed at. lmao



And I know what you mean about PATC being that close....about an hour 15 for me too.

 

[Merc225hp]

Well I am not here to spend your cash but I do offer advice that will cause you to spend it.

Yes still get the hardened pushrods, they are not that expensive.

I am not going to be like DD94 and say go get gears, if you are happy then leave them alone. The truck will respond better with higher gears, but its not a must do thing (some will argue that though). The 9.25 is one of the ezest diff's to setup I have ever worked on besides a ford 9", with some basic tools you can change the gears yourself. I do have a set of 3.92 and a set of 4.56 rear 9.25 gears here, the 3.92 I can let go cheap @ $50 and for the 4.56 I would need a $100.

If you tow find a smaller set of tires for when you do tow, pita to change them around but cheaper than gears.

One last thing DD94 posted install a set of Dana 60, this is good advice if you plan to go to those 37's. Thing is plan it out and don't waste cash on the little diffs if you have plans to swap in a set of 60's.

Best of luck with your build keep us in the loop.

 

[Txdrewski]

I do have a set of 3.92 and a set of 4.56 rear 9.25 gears here, the 3.92 I can let go cheap @ $50 and for the 4.56 I would need a $100.

So just the rear 4.56s? Or a set for the front and rear?

 

[Merc225hp]

Sorry all I have right now are rear 9.25 gears, I am holding onto the front Dana 44 stuff.

 

[Txdrewski]

Hey Merc225/CrazyWolf/Dodge_Dude, on those 1.6 RR I am looking for stud mount 3/8? I believe I should be, and I shoudnt need anything else exept a set of valve cover gaskets right?

 

[dodge dude94]

I believe they are stud mount on these engines, yes.
There are only two that from Harland Sharp (if that's what you're going with) that fit the Magnum heads: Non-adjustable and Adjustable.

As for other stuff you'd need, valve cover gaskets definitely, other stuff, I dunno.

 

[Merc225hp]

They do not use a shaft like the old LA motors thats for sure, so yes you could call it a bolt on rocker. There are some cheaper ways other than Harland sharp rr. Look at Scorpion sbc rr and a stud kit, or Mopar adjustable rr's not cheap but in my op if you are putting in a cam its nice to be able to adjust your rockers to get the fine tuning aspect of things. The adjustable rr do need taller VC the others I do not.