Nearly free AGS delete

[hunterdan]

I found a method to delete the ags for under $1, without having to pull the ags motor apart and reclock the lever arm. Need an 11/64" drill bit (or one big enough for a an 8-32 screw), an 8-32x1.5" screw and 4 nuts for said screw.
Remove the ags assembly and pop the motor out. Drill out the top divot where the locating pin for the case is (where most kits have you drill out). Thread 2 nuts on to the screw all the way to the head. Pop the screw into the hole you drilled with the head and nuts on the same side as the lever arm. Then simply lock the screw down with another nut or 2 to keep it from working loose. This essentially mimics the same amount of travel the arm would go through while still in the ags assembly, so no trimming or moving the lever arm is necessary. Once that is done, plug the motor back in and mount it somewhere out of the way. I had originally made a spacer out of stainless I was going to use, but it ended up being to thick in diameter and didn't offer enough travel. The nuts were slightly smaller and did what I needed them to do. Made a few trips and key cycles with no check engine lights. Took longer to take the ags assembly out and fish the motor out of it.
The stainless spacer you see is simply to take up any extra thread on the screw and really isn't needed.

 

[crazykid1994]

I did something similar. Used a drill and tap bit for an #8-32 screw and drilled through the plastic in the same spot and screwed in a screw until the screw head was even with the middle of the arm. No issues. Over 4 years later and still no CEL.

 

[SitKneelBend]

So, what's an AGS?

 

[turkeybird56]

Active Grill Shutters

 

[SitKneelBend]

Active Grill Shutters

Thanks!

 

[hunterdan]

I had a check engine light pop up the morning after. I think this has more to do with me disconnecting the motor to work on it. Cleared the code and hasn't come back since. Coolant Temps are not going above 203/205. Bouncing between 199 and 203 for the most part. I have a 180 degree thermostat somewhere I may put in.

 

[Wild one]

I had a check engine light pop up the morning after. I think this has more to do with me disconnecting the motor to work on it. Cleared the code and hasn't come back since. Coolant Temps are not going above 203/205. Bouncing between 199 and 203 for the most part. I have a 180 degree thermostat somewhere I may put in.

It might come back on between 500 and a 1,000 miles,but if it does,it's easily cleared.Some trucks work good with that style of mod,while other trucks will occassionally turn on the check engine light

 

[hunterdan]

It might come back on between 500 and a 1,000 miles,but if it does,it's easily cleared.Some trucks work good with that style of mod,while other trucks will occassionally turn on the check engine light

I spend a good portion of my drive on the highway, so it should be cycling the motor a decent amount, plus the normal start up sequence it goes through. We'll see how it holds up.

 

[Black1500Ram]

Well that was the fastest mod I did to my truck.. 15 mins start to finish?

I didn’t even have to unplug the module.

Thanks for the write up.

I used a 3/16” drill bit didn’t have an 11/64”

 

[blackbetty14]

Just wanted to piggy back off this thread to see how it’s working out? I just did this mod tonight as my truck took a tonno cover to the front at highway speed and apparently stripped the inside of the AGS motor/actuator. I had to find a new motor and wanted to delete the AGS system. So I marked the OEM actuator/motor at the fully closed position and then it hit the stop at fully open. By putting the bolt I. The hole like you did that significantly reduces the amount of travel compared to stock. I attached a few pics to show what I’m talking about. The red circle is the stop For fully open. Is this still working out for all you guys?