Need Input

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Pyromed42

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Hello. Few questions. 2014 Ram 1500 5.7 130000 miles. My first time ever really getting into a motor. Heads are at machine shop. Rest of motor still in truck. Back story... truck running well. Was fixing the broken manifold bolt. Another sheared off. Ended up having to remove head to get stud out. Decided to check out everything I have read or wayched about on this motor. 1) On these cam lifters there's a little markings on a couple. Based upon previous threads these all appears to be solid. Are these markings something to be concerned with? VTT solenoid was clean.
2) The pistons all have some carbon build up, most are like one uncovered in picture, one or two have a bit more. Should I clean this? Seems like I should. I have seen 100 different ways to clean them. Seems like WD40, plastic razor and ??? Are the way to go. I have seen you can use gasket remover but wash well with WD40 afterwards. I have also seen don't use this. Looking forward to advice.
Since I am in this far, anything else I should look at or preemptively replace?

Thanks

Beau
 

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Burla

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Always try least aggressive first is general rule, see if WD-40 or alcohol will work first, if not then step up carb cleaner/kreen/solvent pick your fav. If you end up using a lot then change oil after. Rotate crank to clean down bore. Probably more important then piston tops. Use a good spray on piston rings and do a couple ring soaks is what I'd be doing.
 
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Wild one

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Hello. Few questions. 2014 Ram 1500 5.7 130000 miles. My first time ever really getting into a motor. Heads are at machine shop. Rest of motor still in truck. Back story... truck running well. Was fixing the broken manifold bolt. Another sheared off. Ended up having to remove head to get stud out. Decided to check out everything I have read or wayched about on this motor. 1) On these cam lifters there's a little markings on a couple. Based upon previous threads these all appears to be solid. Are these markings something to be concerned with? VTT solenoid was clean.
2) The pistons all have some carbon build up, most are like one uncovered in picture, one or two have a bit more. Should I clean this? Seems like I should. I have seen 100 different ways to clean them. Seems like WD40, plastic razor and ??? Are the way to go. I have seen you can use gasket remover but wash well with WD40 afterwards. I have also seen don't use this. Looking forward to advice.
Since I am in this far, anything else I should look at or preemptively replace?

Thanks

Beau
Better pics of the lifters would help,as it looks like you might have 2 showing some wear on the roller.If they do i'd probably at least replace them,once they start to show wear they go downhill fast.
 
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Pyromed42

Pyromed42

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Better pics of the lifters would help,as it looks like you might have 2 showing some wear on the roller.If they do i'd probably at least replace them,once they start to show wear they go downhill fast.
If these pictures are not good enough, let me know and I'll get better ones. I am greatful for the information.
 

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Pyromed42

Pyromed42

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Always try least aggressive first is general rule, see if WD-40 or alcohol will work first, if not then step up carb cleaner/kreen/solvent pick your fav. If you end up using a lot then change oil after. Rotate crank to clean down piston skirts. Probably more important then piston tops. Use a good spray on piston rings and do a couple ring soaks is what I'd be doing.
Thanks for the information. I will go this route. I do plan on changing oil. Drain this batch, "flush" with cheaper oil and filter, then most likely go back with redline.
What is a good spray for piston rings and I am going to learn about ring soaks now. I appreciate the help.
 

Burla

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Ring soak piston soak same thing. I'd see how wd40 does, it has 130k miles so see how bad that is crusted. If wd40 erases the carbon, there ya go. Like I was saying, the condition should dictate what to use. Use carb or brake cleaner as last option if it is just too crusted. If you end up with a harsh cleaner, protect everything by covering it and taping it so the spray only hits piston area.
 

Wild one

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If these pictures are not good enough, let me know and I'll get better ones. I am greatful for the information.
Get a better pic of the the bottom left one in the batch of 6.Better picks of your piston tops to,don't try to get every cylinder in the pic,do individual pics of each piston top.If you're cleaning piston tops,bring each piston to the top of the bore before cleaning it
 

NCRaineman

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If you've already got the lifters out and they have 130k on them just go ahead and replace. Don't put back used high-mile parts that could fail at any time then you'll have to tear the whole thing down AGAIN. Disassembly & reassembly are 90% of the work.
 
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Pyromed42

Pyromed42

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Get a better pic of the the bottom left one in the batch of 6.Better picks of your piston tops to,don't try to get every cylinder in the pic,do individual pics of each piston top.If you're cleaning piston tops,bring each piston to the top of the bore before cleaning it
Here are pistons in order 2,4,6,8 and 1,3,5,7. From left to right.
 

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Pyromed42

Pyromed42

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If you've already got the lifters out and they have 130k on them just go ahead and replace. Don't put back used high-mile parts that could fail at any time then you'll have to tear the whole thing down AGAIN. Disassembly & reassembly are 90% of the work.
Thanks. I will just replace them. After reading the other threads about knock off parts, I will get from a reputable source.
 
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Wild one

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Here are pistons in order 2,4,6,8 and 1,3,5,7. From left to right.
Use some oven cleaner to soften up the carbon so you can wipe most of it off,followed up by some brake cleaner and a good wipe down,then use a vaccumn cleaner to suck as much of the left over crud from around the edges of the pistons,then spray them down with WD40 followed with another wipe down
 

Wild one

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Thanks. I will just replace them. After reading the other threads about knock off parts, I will get from a reputable source.
Buy "OEM" lifters,do not buy lifters from Comp Cams /Engine Tech etc,otherwise there's a good chance you'll be doing the job all over again.The only aftermarket lifters with a good rep are the axle oiling Johnson lifters,all others are basically a crap shoot on whether they'll last a 1,000 miles.
 

Burla

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Here are pistons in order 2,4,6,8 and 1,3,5,7. From left to right.
If you havent started yet and these are pistons, you have a small wet fuel condition on a couple pistons, no big deal id address injectors and plugs on those.

If that is before cleaning you can see the circle, gas isn't burning efficient for either reason and it both cleans and causes more carbon.
 

Wild one

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Mikes right i'd be doing at the very least a home clean job on the injectors and check their spray pattern.
Google how to clean injectors at home.There's a pile of video's showing how to use a battery and injector cleaner to clean injectors at home.Watch a couple of these video's.

 
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Pyromed42

Pyromed42

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If you havent started yet and these are pistons, you have a small wet fuel condition on a couple pistons, no big deal id address injectors and plugs on those.

If that is before cleaning you can see the circle, gas isn't burning efficient for either reason and it both cleans and causes more carbon.
Yes. This is before cleaning. When I was taking out left side head I kept getting smell like hydrogen sulfide or the smell of oil fields. With as dirty as the top was, all I could think of was valve cover leak. Any idea what would create that smell?
 
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Pyromed42

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Mikes right i'd be doing at the very least a home clean job on the injectors and check their spray pattern.
Google how to clean injectors at home.There's a pile of video's showing how to use a battery and injector cleaner to clean injectors at home.Watch a couple of these video's.

Thanks for the information. I will definitely look into it. What's thoughts on cleaning the intake manifold? It's pretty dirty.

Mikes right i'd be doing at the very least a home clean job on the injectors and check their spray pattern.
Google how to clean injectors at home.There's a pile of video's showing how to use a battery and injector cleaner to clean injectors at home.Watch a couple of these video's.

Thanks for the information. I will definitely figure this part out. What's thoughts on cleaning intake manifold. It's pretty dirty also. I found a video of guy who strips it down, soaks it, brushes it and cleans it. I have also read many threads about taking it to a car wash.
 

Burla

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Kinda like sulfur is the smell of lubrication, most of us kinda like it, lol. You didn't smell it til the head was actually off or as you were unscrewing stuff? If you smelt fresh sulfurish before the head was off I'd check the backside of the engine and exhaust mani backside near trans. If only when heads off no issue that I can think of absent other info.
 

Wild one

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Thanks for the information. I will definitely figure this part out. What's thoughts on cleaning intake manifold. It's pretty dirty also. I found a video of guy who strips it down, soaks it, brushes it and cleans it. I have also read many threads about taking it to a car wash.
Strip the manifold down by pulling the injectors / short runner valve and map sensor,then give it a good spray with engine degreaser inside and out,then run it through your local carwash and wash it out good with the high pressure soap setting,then rinse it good,and once you get it back home either blow the remaining water out of it with an air compressor,or tip it on it's side and let it air dry for a couple hours.Higher milege engines will always have a oder,as Mike states look the back of the engine over for any obvious leaks,but if it wasn't leaking oil before you took it apart,i wouldn't worry to much about the oder
 

Wild one

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Look at the Hemi lifter from Johnson. From what I've read they're supposed to be better than OEM lifters.
He needs a high volumn oil pump to use them in the 5.7 or 6.4,as they're another internal oil leak,that needs more volumn from the oil pump to compensate for the leak.Plus he'll need to check pushrod lengths,as there's a good chance he'll need custom length pushrods with them.
They aren't exactly a drop in and go type lifter,they need to be properly set up as far as pushrod length and pre-load on the lifter goes
I've yet to run into anybody who's put a 100,000 miles on a set of the Johnsons.
Read the discription notes.



 
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