Noob needs help 6.4L possible lifter and cam

[BurtShaver]

I ended up just getting the Mobile 1 0w40 again, it was on sale and I still have 2 litres from the last oil change so this will get that all used up, and give me some time to figure what oil I’m going to use from here on in. Oddly the Crappy tire had the PUP but as I mentioned only in 0w20

 

[BurtShaver]

On the back of the PUP jug it said it was good for 1.2 million kilometres?????, but I must have been mistaken. I will look again next time I’m in and take a picture

 

[Wild one]

I ended up just getting the Mobile 1 0w40 again, it was on sale and I still have 2 litres from the last oil change so this will get that all used up, and give me some time to figure what oil I’m going to use from here on in. Oddly the Crappy tire had the PUP but as I mentioned only in 0w20

My local Crappy Tire always has lots of 5W-30 PUP on the shelf,which would probably be okay to use during the winter,but i don't know if i'd run it as a summer oil.
You've probably said what part of Ont you're in,but i've forgot if you did,but if you're where the temps can get down to -20 or colder,have you ever thought of adding an oil pan heater.They keep the oil warmer then a block heater does,and are usually alot cheaper to leave plugged in.
I run these little guys which are 125w.

https://www.amazon.ca/CANADIAN-POLAR-PAD-Transmission-Reservoirs/dp/B075PWYH6W?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.HMHXbnqibXyMHZrpYcD6_7sTHfn2srCmIaJq6YA377KIPmgdMLdVZCdp0yey8wvoWY882rFSerjf-AETgAdNG4uUiypZlzJYbkyFP-p_lEreqes7CKV_pq2RlUBhC9eoyzudf4ZceR7gdvgEx6-kWKMeX0KLYOxJ4hZ1t-DHUFh_hyQMsHHsn4s4NN-owcrEFbudIMNWYVUSC_ydNoqxY4CGGn2aZ0zOxlRw51Ecmibvgp5gKJHinO5LMq4yDQ1PFZxaAVgtWPAY2qQ7GrQrR_R_-HoOhxG6GgHBL-yGc4w.TJsUH80cItXQl2cbQmCsSb8KvSG-sYdZnZnFrnaR2iM&dib_tag=se&keywords=Oil+Pan+Heater&qid=1733341951&sr=8-25

Amazon.ca : Oil Pan Heater

 

[White six four]

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Hard to tell on my phone but it looks like it has a washer. Maybe. Possibly.

I tried looking for the original plugs in my "spare ram parts bin" but I must have tossed them out.

 

[BurtShaver]

My local Crappy Tire always has lots of 5W-30 PUP on the shelf,which would probably be okay to use during the winter,but i don't know if i'd run it as a summer oil.
You've probably said what part of Ont you're in,but i've forgot if you did,but if you're where the temps can get down to -20 or colder,have you ever thought of adding an oil pan heater.They keep the oil warmer then a block heater does,and are usually alot cheaper to leave plugged in.
I run these little guys which are 125w.

https://www.amazon.ca/CANADIAN-POLAR-PAD-Transmission-Reservoirs/dp/B075PWYH6W?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.HMHXbnqibXyMHZrpYcD6_7sTHfn2srCmIaJq6YA377KIPmgdMLdVZCdp0yey8wvoWY882rFSerjf-AETgAdNG4uUiypZlzJYbkyFP-p_lEreqes7CKV_pq2RlUBhC9eoyzudf4ZceR7gdvgEx6-kWKMeX0KLYOxJ4hZ1t-DHUFh_hyQMsHHsn4s4NN-owcrEFbudIMNWYVUSC_ydNoqxY4CGGn2aZ0zOxlRw51Ecmibvgp5gKJHinO5LMq4yDQ1PFZxaAVgtWPAY2qQ7GrQrR_R_-HoOhxG6GgHBL-yGc4w.TJsUH80cItXQl2cbQmCsSb8KvSG-sYdZnZnFrnaR2iM&dib_tag=se&keywords=Oil+Pan+Heater&qid=1733341951&sr=8-25

Amazon.ca : Oil Pan Heater

I’m in Iroquois Ontario, no need for any type of oil heater /block heater here, 20 years ago when winter started in November and ended sometime in March yes, but since then over the past 20 years winters have progressively gotten warmer till now even in January February most days are around -5 and nights around -12, I use the truck for business and I close up December till the end of February so it doesn’t get used much during those months.

 

[BurtShaver]

I’m in Iroquois Ontario, no need for any type of oil heater /block heater here, 20 years ago when winter started in November and ended sometime in March yes, but since then over the past 20 years winters have progressively gotten warmer till now even in January February most days are around -5 and nights around -12, I use the truck for business and I close up December till the end of February so it doesn’t get used much during those months.

Those oil pan pads are a good idea, so they stay on while you drive?

 

[Wild one]

Those oil pan pads are a good idea, so they stay on while you drive?

Yup,there's differant sizes,but i usually only go for the ones rated at 125 watts,they're more then adquate even over here in AB.

 

[BurtShaver]

Got a little bit of time this morning, I was having a look at the plug boot NGK part number CPB-cr010 that I ordered and first I noticed no resistor with it, I take a spring out of an old boot and it’s roughly 3/4” shorter than the new spring? I’m going to double check but I was sure I ordered with the resistor and also I ordered from RA using the drop down menu picking my model, year and engine. I guess you can’t really trust that to be ordering the right parts which is a little odd.

 

[BurtShaver]

Double checked, info for her part I ordered says it includes all springs and ferrite resistors?

 

[BurtShaver]

I took the from plug out of cylinder 3, it had the markings Bosh R6 Iridium on it, gap looked pretty big on it, I’m no expert plug reader but the plug looks like that cylinder was running pretty rich to me. I’m going to label all the plugs from which cylinder they came out of for future reference, also going to go ahead and take all the coils off, label them as well and clean them up. The resistor looks to be about a half inch and the new boots don’t have resistors with them buy the springs are about 3/4” longer than the old springs. I’m thinking I will just go ahead and use them? I think I could have gotten away with just new resistors as the boots are in good shape, but I have these parts now and I don’t know if the resistors are even available separately.

 

[BurtShaver]

Oh, the old Bosh R6 Iridium plugs have a washer so I’m pretty sure I’m good with these NGK plugs I bought

 

[BurtShaver]

The instructions on the new boots say to put a little di electric grease on the inside of each end of the boot, sounds to me like they are saying to put it on the rubber and not on the spring? Does this sound right? Makes sense to me, non conductive grease on the inside of each end of the boot to keep moisture out? What do you guys recommend?

 

[Wild one]

The instructions on the new boots say to put a little di electric grease on the inside of each end of the boot, sounds to me like they are saying to put it on the rubber and not on the spring? Does this sound right? Makes sense to me, non conductive grease on the inside of each end of the boot to keep moisture out? What do you guys recommend?

Put the dielectric grease on the bottom of the plugs porcellin,instead of inside the boot. I switched the plug boots over to the earlier boots with-out the resistors on both the truck and 6.4 Challenger. It doesn't hurt to stretch the new springs out about a 1/4 to 1/2" ,as it puts a little more pressure on the contact points and they're a little less likely to corrode as fast. A little WD40 sprayed on the boot helps when you re-install it into the coil.
Looks like I was wrong ,i thought the truck 6.4's used a tapered plug seat like the car 6.4's use.
Be very careful if you're checking the gap,it's easy to tweak the pintle.
A very thin smear of anti-seaze on the plug threads is a good idea,as they go into aluminium heads,just don't get carried away with it.
If some of the coils are really corroded at the contact point,i've used a small sharp pick to scratch away as much corrosion as possible,before wire wheeling them with the small dremel brushes. I try to get as much life as i can out of the brushes,so pre-scratching the contact point clean helps prolong the life of the brushes

 

[BurtShaver]

Put the dielectric grease on the bottom of the plugs porcellin,instead of inside the boot. I switched the plug boots over to the earlier boots with-out the resistors on both the truck and 6.4 Challenger. It doesn't hurt to stretch the new springs out about a 1/4 to 1/2" ,as it puts a little more pressure on the contact points and they're a little less likely to corrode as fast. A little WD40 sprayed on the boot helps when you re-install it into the coil.
Looks like I was wrong ,i thought the truck 6.4's used a tapered plug seat like the car 6.4's use.
Be very careful if you're checking the gap,it's easy to tweak the pintle.
A very thin smear of anti-seaze on the plug threads is a good idea,as they go into aluminium heads,just don't get carried away with it.
If some of the coils are really corroded at the contact point,i've used a small sharp pick to scratch away as much corrosion as possible,before wire wheeling them with the small dremel brushes. I try to get as much life as i can out of the brushes,so pre-scratching the contact point clean helps prolong the life of the brushes

Thank you for the advice, here’s the plug out of cylinder 4, pretty unbelievable the amount of corrosion. I’ve already changed the plugs for cylinders 1 through 4 and haven’t put any anti seize on the threads, I will start brushing on a very thin amount for plugs 5 through 8. I have torqued the plugs to 10 foot pounds,

 

[Wild one]

View attachment 556231
Thank you for the advice, here’s the plug out of cylinder 4, pretty unbelievable the amount of corrosion. I’ve already changed the plugs for cylinders 1 through 4 and haven’t put any anti seize on the threads, I will start brushing on a very thin amount for plugs 5 through 8. I have torqued the plugs to 10 foot pounds,

Those are definitely in rough shape,lol. The spring makes contact with the top of the plug,so the corrosion on the side isn't to big a deal,but still not great though.If you plan on keeping the truck long enough to do another plug change on it,i'd pull the 8 plugs out that have no anti-seaze and put some on them,if you don't plan on ever doing plugs in it again,i wouldn't worry about it,lol

 

[BurtShaver]

When I’m putting the spring in the new boot, do I push it in the boot from the coil side of the boot or the spark plug side of the boot

 

[Wild one]

When I’m putting the spring in the new boot, do I push it in the boot from the coil side of the boot or the spark plug side of the boot

Doesn't really matter,as it'll center itself once the boot is installed and the coil is back on the engine.If you're worried about it,push it in from the bottom till it bottems out against the contact point in the coil tower.If you've given the springs a slight stretch they'll make better contact on both ends

 

[BurtShaver]

Well, I got the coils back on today and no difference, still hard to start, erratic running, and need throttle to keep it running at all. I was so sure that this was going to be the problem after seeing the horrible corrosion in there. As a next step I was thinking, switch the coils around? And have the fellow come back with his scanner and see the misfire follows the coils? Or take one of the valve covers off? I will have to look back at my notes, I know I had codes for misfire in 3,7,8 and then a code for throttle body actuator? I think, I will have to look back

 

[Wild one]

Well, I got the coils back on today and no difference, still hard to start, erratic running, and need throttle to keep it running at all. I was so sure that this was going to be the problem after seeing the horrible corrosion in there. As a next step I was thinking, switch the coils around? And have the fellow come back with his scanner and see the misfire follows the coils? Or take one of the valve covers off? I will have to look back at my notes, I know I had codes for misfire in 3,7,8 and then a code for throttle body actuator? I think, I will have to look back

Hate to ruin your day,but it sounds like you might need a cam and lifter replacement.

 

[BurtShaver]

I don’t want to be a burden, but is this something that the people on here can walk me through? Or should I concede and take it to the dealer? I don’t have much experience at all, changed a cracked head 30 years ago on a 1985 Ford Tempo, rebuilt 2 ski Doo top ends and 1 stator and Mag flywheel, a couple carb rebuilds on the Seadoo’s, I could watch a few video’s but I would have a ton of questions. Also wondering if I should be getting a shop manual?