Noob needs help 6.4L possible lifter and cam

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Wild one

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I don’t want to be a burden, but is this something that the people on here can walk me through? Or should I concede and take it to the dealer? I don’t have much experience at all, changed a cracked head 30 years ago on a 1985 Ford Tempo, rebuilt 2 ski Doo top ends and 1 stator and Mag flywheel, a couple carb rebuilds on the Seadoo’s, I could watch a few video’s but I would have a ton of questions. Also wondering if I should be getting a shop manual?
There's several good video's floating around,and Kurtis has a pretty decent thread that's worth reading through. Take your time,and take a few pictures for referance and to fall back on. Doing a cam swap isn't that hard if you don't rush the job.

 
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BurtShaver

BurtShaver

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I came across a video just now that was showing the symptoms of a faulty or dirty MAF sensor, and I have to say the symptoms sound identical to my truck. Before I had cane across this video earlier today I tried to read the fault codes with my cheap OBD2 scanner I had, no luck though, I had taken the negative cable off the battery while I was changing the plugs and boots and cleaning the coil contacts, I think I may have reset the code with the cable off. But there was a very heavy fuel odour. In the video they cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF aérosol cleaner? So in the video it mentions a bad sensor causing either a lean or rich condition and now looking back all my plugs looked extremely rich (black) it mentions rough idling, I definitely have that. So it gives a number of ways to test the MAF which I can’t use the multimeter because I don’t have a shop manual and can’t seem to find one, but it also mentions removing the plug from the sensor while it’s running, basically if it runs poorly when removing it, then the sensor is good, if no change then the sensor is bad? It also mentions a misfire code, I have that. There are things I’m forgetting, I will have a look at the video again and take notes this time. What do you guys think? Anyone know how to test it? Should I try cleaning it? Thank you
 

Wild one

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I came across a video just now that was showing the symptoms of a faulty or dirty MAF sensor, and I have to say the symptoms sound identical to my truck. Before I had cane across this video earlier today I tried to read the fault codes with my cheap OBD2 scanner I had, no luck though, I had taken the negative cable off the battery while I was changing the plugs and boots and cleaning the coil contacts, I think I may have reset the code with the cable off. But there was a very heavy fuel odour. In the video they cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF aérosol cleaner? So in the video it mentions a bad sensor causing either a lean or rich condition and now looking back all my plugs looked extremely rich (black) it mentions rough idling, I definitely have that. So it gives a number of ways to test the MAF which I can’t use the multimeter because I don’t have a shop manual and can’t seem to find one, but it also mentions removing the plug from the sensor while it’s running, basically if it runs poorly when removing it, then the sensor is good, if no change then the sensor is bad? It also mentions a misfire code, I have that. There are things I’m forgetting, I will have a look at the video again and take notes this time. What do you guys think? Anyone know how to test it? Should I try cleaning it? Thank you
It's worth a try unplugging it,it's on the back of the manifold and not exactly easy to get at,but what the hell see what happens when you unplug it.There's 2 plugs back there,ones the map sensor,the other is the short runner valve plug in,the map should be the one off to the right and above the short runner valve plug
 
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Hagar1

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Did you buy the earlier coil boots that don't use the resistor,as personally i think the resistors are a contributing factor to the corrosion issue.I'm only basing this on the coils that i've done,and it seems like the later coil boots that have the resistors are always in worse shape then the earlier coil boots that don't utilize the resistors.
I pulled the resistors out of both the wifes Challenger and my truck,and replaced them with the earlier coil boots,and ever since then,i haven't had as many issues with corrosion as both exibited when they had the original boots with resistors. I actually picked up the earlier coil boots for a 2013 Chrysler 300 with the 5.7 for both the truck and Challenger,same rubber boot,but with the longer spring to replace the shorter springs that are used on the coils with the resistors.
I tend to agree with you on the resistor thing. I remember the green corrosion that use to build up on some distributor caps back in the 1970s when I worked at a GM dealer. If we encountered the green stuff, it usually involved a Cap and Wire replacement.
 

Wild one

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I'm not overly familiar with the truck 6.4's intake box,but i don't think they use a maf sensor,they'll have an IAT sensor in the intake tube,and the map sensor on the back of the intake

 
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BurtShaver

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Rock Auto shows a MAF sensor for it, 170.00, hopefully that’s Canadian. I’m going to see if I can find any values online to test it first, and probably try cleaning it first to.
 

Wild one

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Rock Auto shows a MAF sensor for it, 170.00, hopefully that’s Canadian. I’m going to see if I can find any values online to test it first, and probably try cleaning it first to.
Easy enough to tell if you have one,is there anything electrical on the air box lid that needs unplugging to remove the top of the box.
 

Wild one

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Have you pulled 1 plug out of each cylinder and did a compression test .Sometimes a bad cam lobe will show up when doing a compression test,if you have a cylinder down on psi,then i'd pull the valve covers and see if all the rocker arms are moving the same amount, then pull the intake manifold and inspect the VVT solenoid screen for filings. I know you're hoping it's not the cam,but i think you might want to accept the fact it probably is,lol
 
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BurtShaver

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I’m going to have a look at it tomorrow, I’m a little optimistic again. When it comes to cleaning it, MAF cleaner was recommended on the video, I have no experience with it so I will ask, do you think throttle body cleaner would be ok to use? Or any other product you can think to use? I’m doubtful crappy tire will have the MAF cleaner but maybe Napa will...
 
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BurtShaver

BurtShaver

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Have you pulled 1 plug out of each cylinder and did a compression test .Sometimes a bad cam lobe will show up when doing a compression test,if you have a cylinder down on psi,then i'd pull the valve covers and see if all the rocker arms are moving the same amount, then pull the intake manifold and inspect the VVT solenoid screen for filings. I know you're hoping it's not the cam,but i think you might want to accept the fact it probably is,lol
I was thinking about this, with it having a multiple cylinder misfire and then another scanner showing misfire on 3,7,8. I was thinking that maybe this was pointing away from a cam and lifters? I know cam and lifters was my original thought but after thinking about it more, would 3 lifters and/or cam lobes be likely to go down at once? I’ve also read that a bad cam/lifters shows more at higher rpm and not so much at lower rpm? Your right though, I am definitely hoping it’s not the cam and lifters, If this doesn’t bare any fruit I will be taking that valve cover off though.
 

Wild one

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I’m going to have a look at it tomorrow, I’m a little optimistic again. When it comes to cleaning it, MAF cleaner was recommended on the video, I have no experience with it so I will ask, do you think throttle body cleaner would be ok to use? Or any other product you can think to use? I’m doubtful crappy tire will have the MAF cleaner but maybe Napa will...
My local Crappy Tire usually has this on the shelf.

 
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BurtShaver

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My local Crappy Tire usually has this on the shelf.

Thanks @Wild one . I will pick up a can tomorrow. After I’m done messing around with this I’m going to pull the valve cover off before I possibly damage this motor further. Have to pull it over to my great grandfather’s old garage and get a wood stove hooked up there first though. Thanks for the help
 

Wild one

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Thanks @Wild one . I will pick up a can tomorrow. After I’m done messing around with this I’m going to pull the valve cover off before I possibly damage this motor further. Have to pull it over to my great grandfather’s old garage and get a wood stove hooked up there first though. Thanks for the help
If you can,please gat a pic of your airbox,i've never really looked a truck 6.4's airbox over close to see if they do use a Maf sensor.
I thought only the early 15 and 16 Hellcats were the only VVT Hemi's to use a maf,did not know the 6.4 truck's still used one.
I've modified 4 Hellcat boxes and tops to fit the naturally aspirated 6.4/5.7 Challengers and Chargers,and the early Hellcat lid with the Maf sensor hole is the easiest one to make fit,is why i know the early Kitties used a Maf sensor,the later 17 to 19 lids still work,i just find the early tops to be easier to mod,lol
 
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BurtShaver

BurtShaver

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If you can,please gat a pic of your airbox,i've never really looked a truck 6.4's airbox over close to see if they do use a Maf sensor.
I thought only the early 15 and 16 Hellcats were the only VVT Hemi's to use a maf,did not know the 6.4 truck's still used one.
I've modified 4 Hellcat boxes and tops to fit the naturally aspirated 6.4/5.7 Challengers and Chargers,and the early Hellcat lid with the Maf sensor hole is the easiest one to make fit,is why i know the early Kitties used a Maf sensor,the later 17 to 19 lids still work,i just find the early tops to be easier to mod,lol
Absolutely no problem, that’s the least I could do
 
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