Noob needs help 6.4L possible lifter and cam

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Wild one

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I just got finished the link you sent, I must not have made it all the way through the first time I read it. Glad to see that I can simply mark the timing chain and cam phaser (hope I got that term right lol) keep the chain tight in the crank and everything will stay in time. When I’m taking the heads off, the Haynes manual shows to remove the exhaust manifolds from the head but I think I’ve seen posts or video’s where they have removed the heads with the exhaust manifolds still attached? Is that possible to do? Would you recommend new head bolts? The link says if your on a budget you can reuse them? I’m not wealthy but if they should be replaced I will replace them but I’m also thrifty so if they are good I will re use them? I guess the thinking is the threads get stretched a bit ?
Have you got help,the heads can be removed with the manifolds attached,they can even be re-installed with the manifolds attached,but it would help to have an extra pair of hands if you're R&R'ing the heads and manifolds together.
If you dig around you should be able to find Ma Mopars reconmendation on bolt stretch,if the head bolts measure under their stretch limit,they're safe to re-use. If the engines never been over heated or tore down before this,you can probably re-use the bolts,but you'll have to make your own judgement call on whether you'd feel safe re-using them.
You'll definitely want a new cam bolt though,as that's one bolt you don't want to scrimp on,i'd even spring for a new crank bolt if it was my truck.
You've probably already said how many miles are on the truck,but i forget and don't want to have to dig back through the thread,but if it's getting up there in miles,you might even want to consider new valve springs,as they do fatigue and wear out over time
 
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BurtShaver

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Thank you doesn’t seem like enough, sure would like to buy you guys a case of beer for all the help I’ve gotten here. I will give the springs some thought, I’m sure I will order them as well, ( of course I have no idea how to do them lol. ) but I’ve seen there is a cheap tool that makes the job real easy. See how things look with the valve cover off and go from there. I just wanted to get a little head start on the Process for the cam and lifters if In fact that’s the way this ends up going, and it’s looking that way.
 

Wild one

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Thank you doesn’t seem like enough, sure would like to buy you guys a case of beer for all the help I’ve gotten here. I will give the springs some thought, I’m sure I will order them as well, ( of course I have no idea how to do them lol. ) but I’ve seen there is a cheap tool that makes the job real easy. See how things look with the valve cover off and go from there. I just wanted to get a little head start on the Process for the cam and lifters if In fact that’s the way this ends up going, and it’s looking that way.
Kurtis's thread shows my heads ,i went with Ma Mopars hi-po 0.625 lift springs,one of the better upgrades i did in my opinion,as i've never had any issues with valve float shifting at 6600 rpm.
 

Wild one

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Thank you doesn’t seem like enough, sure would like to buy you guys a case of beer for all the help I’ve gotten here. I will give the springs some thought, I’m sure I will order them as well, ( of course I have no idea how to do them lol. ) but I’ve seen there is a cheap tool that makes the job real easy. See how things look with the valve cover off and go from there. I just wanted to get a little head start on the Process for the cam and lifters if In fact that’s the way this ends up going, and it’s looking that way.
These are the springs i used.They're cheaper to buy as singles then they are as a package of 16.


 

Wild one

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BurtShaver

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Today we got my truck towed over and into the garage, with the help of my brother in law and uncle we got a wood stove hauled in there, I patched up the old cinder block chimney, now I just need to buy 40” of stove pipe and a reduced I can get the stove hooked up.
Just a few questions before I take the left hand side valve cover off and crank it over. 1. I’m going to need to take the coils off that bank correct? I’m sure I will but just double checking. Once the coils are off and the valve cover is off do I need to worry about grounding anything? The clips for that bank of coils will be just hanging there, any issue with that? I’m going to be taking the fuse out for the fuel pump correct? I’ve seen people actually run the vehicle for 10 seconds or so with the valve cover off? Is it best not to actually run it, but just crank it over? 3. It i will be pulling the fuel pump fuse, is it advisable to pull the fuse before taking the valve cover off and starting the truck to burn off any fuel that may be in the lines? Or not necessary? That’s about all I can think of but if you guys think of any other things I should be doing or pitfalls I can avoid...please let me know.
 

Wild one

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Today we got my truck towed over and into the garage, with the help of my brother in law and uncle we got a wood stove hauled in there, I patched up the old cinder block chimney, now I just need to buy 40” of stove pipe and a reduced I can get the stove hooked up.
Just a few questions before I take the left hand side valve cover off and crank it over. 1. I’m going to need to take the coils off that bank correct? I’m sure I will but just double checking. Once the coils are off and the valve cover is off do I need to worry about grounding anything? The clips for that bank of coils will be just hanging there, any issue with that? I’m going to be taking the fuse out for the fuel pump correct? I’ve seen people actually run the vehicle for 10 seconds or so with the valve cover off? Is it best not to actually run it, but just crank it over? 3. It i will be pulling the fuel pump fuse, is it advisable to pull the fuse before taking the valve cover off and starting the truck to burn off any fuel that may be in the lines? Or not necessary? That’s about all I can think of but if you guys think of any other things I should be doing or pitfalls I can avoid...please let me know.
Sorry Burt i missed this earlier. Instead of pulling the fuel pump fuse,pull the starter relay and either use a 12 or 14 gauge jumper wire or a remote switch and jump the starter relay instead.That way you can leave the ignition off,and not worry about it trying to start or build fuel pressure,plus you can watch the rocker arm movement from under the hood.
 
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BurtShaver

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Sorry Burt i missed this earlier. Instead of pulling the fuel pump fuse,pull the starter relay and either use a 12 or 14 gauge jumper wire or a remote switch and jump the starter relay instead.That way you can leave the ignition off,and not worry about it trying to start or build fuel pressure,plus you can watch the rocker arm movement from under the hood.
No problem there, But I don’t know how to jump the starter relay, I can try and find some video’s. Is it as simple as finding the starter relay, taking it out, and putting a wire from one lead to another? I will try searching up some video’s because I have no idea. Or is it similar to crossing the posts on a starter solenoid.
 
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BurtShaver

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I found one video, in the video they started the vehicle by jumping the starter relay, they turned the key to on position, took out the relay, they had 5 pins but the pins on the relay were numbered and they knew which 2 pins to jump across with a wire. So I’m guessing that’s what I will do, except the key will be in the off position?
 

Wild one

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I found one video, in the video they started the vehicle by jumping the starter relay, they turned the key to on position, took out the relay, they had 5 pins but the pins on the relay were numbered and they knew which 2 pins to jump across with a wire. So I’m guessing that’s what I will do, except the key will be in the off position?
Yup you got it. If you have a legit mopar relay it'll be the terminals marked 3 and 5,if it's been replaced with a normal 4 or 5 terminal relay it'll be terminals 30 and 87 that you want to jump across.With the key off,the only thing getting power is the starter,the fuel pump and coils remain dead. I usually use 10/12G male connectors with their yellow plastic ends stripped off ,to stuff into the fuse boxes holes where the relay terminals go,and that gives you a good place to hook up a remote starter switch,or to stuff a 12 guage wire into to jump the relay. If you use a piece of wire as you're jumper,i'll forewarn you,there might be sparks when you touch the wire to the terminals stuck out of the fuse box,it's nothing to worry about,but the first time it happens it'll probably surprise you,just giving you a heads up notice,lol
 
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BurtShaver

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Yup you got it. If you have a legit mopar relay it'll be the terminals marked 3 and 5,if it's been replaced with a normal 4 or 5 terminal relay it'll be terminals 30 and 87 that you want to jump across.With the key off,the only thing getting power is the starter,the fuel pump and coils remain dead
On the video I watched the guy is jumping it with a paper clip, no insulation on the paper clip, I guess no worries about shocking? Any idea’s for a switch? Just some cheap toggle switch be ok?
 

Wild one

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On the video I watched the guy is jumping it with a paper clip, no insulation on the paper clip, I guess no worries about shocking? Any idea’s for a switch? Just some cheap toggle switch be ok?
Use a decent push button momentary contact switch Burt.
I've used these switches to make remote starter switches,as they're rated up to 50 amps,so they'll cover pretty well anything you need a momentary contact switch for.
Crappy Tire used to carry a similiar switch,but i haven't checked my local Crappy Tires automotive wiring section for awhile to know if they still carry a similiar switch lately

 
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BurtShaver

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Use a decent push button momentary contact switch Burt.
I've used these switches to make remote starter switches,as they're rated up to 50 amps,so they'll cover pretty well anything you need a momentary contact switch for.
Crappy Tire used to carry a similiar switch,but i haven't checked my local Crappy Tires automotive wiring section for awhile to know if they still carry a similiar switch lately

Looks similar to the switch to start the old McCormick W-4 . I’ve ordered them, they will be in the 24th Thank you
 

Wild one

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Looks similar to the switch to start the old McCormick W-4 . I’ve ordered them, they will be in the 24th Thank you
If you crimp these onto a couple wire leads,you'll have a homemade remote starter switch that'll work great using the switch you ordered Burt



You could go 1 step further and make up another set of leads that have alligator clips,and you'll have covered pretty well anything that you can use a remote starter switch on,just by swapping leads


 
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BurtShaver

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If you crimp these onto a couple wire leads,you'll have a homemade remote starter switch that'll work great using the switch you ordered Burt



You could go 1 step further and make up another set of leads that have alligator clips,and you'll have covered pretty well anything that you can use a remote starter switch on,just by swapping leads


Yep, another tool for the box, i will pick those up tomorrow as well Thanks for sharing your knowledge and posting those links. Can’t wait to get to the garage
 

Wild one

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He's not lying! I almost need to put his name on my second mastercard bahaha
I'm still in trouble at the local dealer,over the way i got that 6.4 for you,i should have got 2,as i don't know if i'll be able to pull that one off again,lol.
 
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