Oil Consumption-Can Anything Be Done?

[Sean J Blackburn]

If you pull the throttle body off to clean it, hold the electronics so they face up so the cleaner does not run down into it.

I don't like to move the flap much, just a hair to clean where it sits with a Q-tip or something like it.

Let it dry up before you put it back on.

With the age of your truck I would pick up a new gasket (they are o-ring like).

Just use the proper size of hand nut driver to remove and put on. I don't torque them down just snug when the screw stops moving.

It is just a screw in plastic so be carefull.

Otherwise an easy job.

Yeah once I get the catch can installed I will take off the TB and clean it up. I've taken it off to clean before but it's been a few years. I'll pick up a new gasket for it while I have it off.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

Is there a certain brand of catch can everyone likes for the 5.7? Or is it a "buy whatever" type of part where it doesn't make much difference who the manufacturer is?

 

[Sherman Bird]

Not untrue, it is very possible you run it and still burn the same. Most likely that answer would be related to how much the truck burned when new, but also those ring tolerances could have widened as well. But clean rings and seats is still generally a good thing imo, worth a try and is possible to help along with moving to a thicker oil.

If I were adding anything to it, my expectation would be "definitely maybe" as far as improvement.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

Yes Sherman, that's how I'm approaching it. Will it do something? Maybe. But not doing anything will change nothing, so it's worth a try. That's how I look at it

 

[Mister Luck]

Clearly I didn't understand his post. Also, don't understand how a loose TB would cause this so that's probably the joke lol. Saw the sarcasm tag, wasn't sure what he was trying to say!

Watch the video when you have the chance … I use 0w-20 and I have less oil consumption than 5w-20 but I’m above the 45’ parallel N. , a much cooler climate.
The joke is just tightening bolts blindly without understanding the consequences or why they loosen in the first place, understanding a fasteners purpose etc.
(I hope this makes more sense)

A lot of owners only have just enough knowledge to only complete a certain degree of skill …
… like not enough rope, but just enough to hang oneself.

 

[Mister Luck]

Is there a certain brand of catch can everyone likes for the 5.7? Or is it a "buy whatever" type of part where it doesn't make much difference who the manufacturer is?

I made a Oil Catch Can using a Fuel Filter For $10 (+10 HP)

Buy Fuel Filter Here: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FFuel-Filter-Champ-G485-G6563-for-Dodge-Chrys...

youtu.be

Anything is possible, I like the fuel filter idea !

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

Watch the video when you have the chance … I use 0w-20 and I have less oil consumption than 5w-20 but I’m above the 45’ parallel N. , a much cooler climate.
The joke is just tightening bolts blindly without understanding the consequences or why they loosen in the first place, understanding a fasteners purpose etc.
(I hope this makes more sense)

A lot of owners only have just enough knowledge to only complete a certain degree of skill …
… like not enough rope, but just enough to hang oneself.

Thanks for explaining. I'm fairly mechanically competent and do most of my own maintenance and repairs. I just didn't understand the joke! Yes, when I was just starting to work on cars I definitely found myself in the situation you describe. Luckily if you do that enough times you learn to recognize when you are in over your head and you learn when to ask for help (or even admit defeat and pay a professional). The good news is the more you do the better you get and the level at which you are in over your head gradually becomes "deeper". The forums are a good way to ask questions and seek advice from people with more knowledge than you in particular areas. There's no harm (or shame) in asking a question before you do something. I appreciate all the helpful advice I've gotten in this thread, everyone has been polite and helpful and now I've got a plan for what to do going forward. To your point, though, about just wrenching on things blindly: I think everyone here has done that at some point in their lives! Even if they won't admit it lol.

 

[Wild one]

Yeah once I get the catch can installed I will take off the TB and clean it up. I've taken it off to clean before but it's been a few years. I'll pick up a new gasket for it while I have it off.

Pull the negative battery post when you remove the throttle body.Once re-installed turn the ignition to "run" but don't start the truck,and then slowly floor the skinny pedal and slowly return to idle ,with-in 10 sec's ,then turn ignition off,open and close door,before starting it. That's the poor mans way of doing a throttle relearn.

 

[Wild one]

Be careful when tightening the throttle body bolts,as they only go into plastic,and are easy to strip.
If you do strip one,i use ready rod and make a stud .
You probably don't need to remove your intake manifold,but if you do,some de-greaser sprayed inside it,and a run through your local coin-op carwash will hose it out pretty easily,remove the short runner valve before hand on the back of the intake. It also doesn't hurt to spray the heads where the gaskets sit with WD-40,so the O-rings will slide on the surface,and not catch and get pulled out of place.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

That's a great tip. Hopefully they don't strip out but if they do I know what to do

 

[Wild one]

This thread has the torque sequence for your intake bolts,and if you don't remove the intake,it's well worth going over the 10 intake bolts and re-torquing them to 108 in-lbs / 9 ft-lbs.They are notorious for loosening off.

Check your intake manifold bolts

This hasn't been talked about for awhile,but check your intake manifold bolts.They call for 108 in-lbs or roughly 9 ft-lbs of torque,and they should be checked at least yearly,as they do loosen up. I've been doing mine at least twice a year on all 3 of of my hemi equipped vehicles.They should be...

www.ramforum.com

 

[Wild one]

That's a great tip. Hopefully they don't strip out but if they do I know what to do

Personally i think they should of had studs instead of a course thread screw. Run a 1/4" tap into the holes,blow out the holes,then run your home made 1/4" ready rod studs into the threaded hole,you could JB Weld the studs in,if you wanted,but i've never had any issues with them backing out. Don't drill the intake,just run your tap into the holes.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

This thread has the torque sequence for your intake bolts,and if you don't remove the intake,it's well worth going over the 10 intake bolts and re-torquing them to 108 in-lbs / 9 ft-lbs.They are notorious for loosening off.

Check your intake manifold bolts

This hasn't been talked about for awhile,but check your intake manifold bolts.They call for 108 in-lbs or roughly 9 ft-lbs of torque,and they should be checked at least yearly,as they do loosen up. I've been doing mine at least twice a year on all 3 of of my hemi equipped vehicles.They should be...

www.ramforum.com

I read through the first 6 pages of that thread. My truck has always bounced around a bit on the idle and definitely not smooth. I saw some guys in that thread had the same issue, bolts were very loose and tightening them corrected the issue. It's almost dark here now and I'm going to the grocery store with the fiance. I will check tomorrow and report back

 

[mikeru]

Is there a certain brand of catch can everyone likes for the 5.7? Or is it a "buy whatever" type of part where it doesn't make much difference who the manufacturer is?

Tons of different catch cans out there, from the inexpensive generic version to the cans specifically made for your truck. It all depends on how much you want to spend. Search on 2010 Ram 1500 catch can and pick one LOL.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

I ordered a mishimoto catch can. Doesn't come for a week though.

 

[Wild one]

I read through the first 6 pages of that thread. My truck has always bounced around a bit on the idle and definitely not smooth. I saw some guys in that thread had the same issue, bolts were very loose and tightening them corrected the issue. It's almost dark here now and I'm going to the grocery store with the fiance. I will check tomorrow and report back

If you can twist a couple of them by hand with a 5/16" nutdriver,you need to go over all of them,lol

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

I'll check them tomorrow and let you know what I find

 

[Hemi395]

before pic would help, lol. This is corey's piston before si-1 but after amsoil ;pi and maybe techron, I forget. Maybe he chime in. @Hemi395

look at the edges, this is how oil gets through old rings. Carbon build up creates little galleys. Eventually rings fail and nothing will help, but cleaning them prolongs their lifespan.

.

View attachment 538664

I honestly don't remember what I used before the SI1, I think it was some form of Gumout. I didn't use Amsoil PI until later, kinda wish I'd done a comparison of before and after on that...

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

If you can twist a couple of them by hand with a 5/16" nutdriver,you need to go over all of them,lol

Just came in from checking the intake manifold bolts. They were all perfectly tight, no looseness whatsoever. Also, the redline is supposed to be delivered today so I'll run that once it shows up.

 

[crackerjack1957]

Thinking about trying FTC-Decarbonizer on a 2007 Honda Civic myself.

https://www.proadditives.com/excessive-engine-oil-use/

Bought 4 years ago with no history on vehicle with 121k on odometer, now has 156k
It has always used about 1 quart of oil every 2k.
Other than oil consumption no other issues.

RedLine SL-1 used several times over the years along with Amsoil PI.
For all I know rings may have lost there tension or was this way from the factory.
Looking dipstick & under valve cover looks like previous owner went to long on the OCI.
Thinking maybe rings could be coked.
Trying HPL engine cleaner to solve this.

Engine Cleaner

HPL Engine Cleaner is designed for those who wish to clean deposits in their engines left behind from commodity type lubricants that are designed to “meet the spec.” Engine Cleaner is specially formulated and fortified with detergents and dispersants providing safe cleaning in the engine. When...

www.advlubrication.com