Oil Consumption-Can Anything Be Done?

[Sean J Blackburn]

My truck is a 2010 1500 with the 5.7. I just rolled over to 170k miles.

I'm using about 1 quart every 2400 miles. I'm aware dodge says 1 quart per 1k miles is normal.

I've changed the pcv valve and noticed little difference. There is oil in my throttle body, which is why I changed the pcv valve about 1200 miles ago.

My question: since I've got 170k on the engine, is the best course of action to just occasionally top off the oil? Can anything be done, such as switching oil brands, additives like seafoam in the crankcase, etc., to try to slow the oil consumption? This is my 3rd ram and the first one I've had that uses oil. Seems unusual to me.

Thanks all

 

[mikeru]

Excessive oil through the PCV system would indicate excessive blow-by, which would mean you probably have worn or collapsed piston rings, or damage to one or more piston ring land. You could try doing compression tests, both dry and wet. If you see a big difference between the dry and wet numbers it's a ring issue. It won't hurt anything to keep running it and topping off the oil. But you might switch to a cheaper oil brand if you do that.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

Perfect, thanks! I'm trying to squeeze a few more years out of this truck while I save for a new diesel, so I'm trying to avoid costly repairs. If I can just keep topping up for a while until I buy my Cummins that's what I'll do.

 

[grizzstang]

I am not sure what the 2010 Ram Hemi recommends for oil but if your running the 5W20 in Arizona you can switch to a better weight of oil.

Like 5W30 or 0W40.

It might slow down your consumption some.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

I am not sure what the 2010 Ram Hemi recommends for oil but if your running the 5W20 in Arizona you can switch to a better weight of oil.

Like 5W30 or 0W40.

It might slow down your consumption some.

My manual says 5w20 which is what I've always used. I have read about people using 5w30, I might try that next time.

It does not get cold here where I am. An average low in winter is high 40s or low 50s. A couple of times a year maybe 30 degrees.

What would the benefit of running say, 0w40 over 5w30 be? I haven't heard of guys running 0w40 in the 5.7 but I am far from an oil guru.

 

[grizzstang]

It's a little thicker (depending on the brand) and may offer more protection with less burning.

I am running Redline 5W30 in mine right now and have been for the last two oil changes.

I was running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W40 before that and it does get cold here.

Lots of people on this forum are running other brands of 0W40 with no issue.

If you are using dino oil I would go up to Pennzoil yellow bottle 5W30 or even 10W30 where you are at.

No need to run very expensive oil if it is burning it.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

Thanks grizzstang. I'll try 5w30 at my next oil change and see how that does. Can always bump up to the 0w40 if needed.

 

[jws123]

My 2011 used the about same amount of oil when my cam went at 180k I replaced valve stem seals did help but high mileage is high mileage It is still running at 240k sold it last year Like mentioned above go to 5w30 just check on oil after long trips ect.

 

[Burla]

Run an engine cleaner as in combustion chamber cleaner and clean up those rings and ring seats. Run sea foam through the vac lines and put a bottle on redline si-1 in the gas tank, maybe run two bottles one now and one next fill up. Oil is getting past those rings and burning, you need a two prong process, clean those up and then use an oil with low noack and high hths, which is another way of saying thick oil but not exactly, thick oil does not always tell the story. I'd use something with a noack under 10 and a hths over 3.5. The larger problem is oil companies in large part have stopped posting these viscosity measurements thanks to CAFE. So if you want an inexpensive option I'd go with m1 0w40 fs if you can find it.

Once you solve this also run a catylitic converter additive the next time you go on a long trip, as a third step in this process.

 

[Burla]

link why redline

We also did some tests at bitog also posted like the thread above, especially hemi395 who also boroscoped his. Bottom, line, nothing has been proven by boroscope to clean the rings and ring seats like redline si-1, if there was, I would mention it. You are looking at piston tops, and as you see what happens first, the first cleaning you get is on the edge of the piston, as in where the rings are.

 

[Burla]

This is hemi395's piston after using reldine si-1, see the top of the round piston and where the cleaning starts. Corey was the original, now off shoot tests show the same thing, non better then that site posted, very thorough. That is boroscope camera look at piston top. No, techron will not clean as well, proof in that other test, in fact nothing will, he also tried other PEA additives with pics nothing as good.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

I will check out that link! And I just ordered the redline! Thanks

 

[Burla]

before pic would help, lol. This is corey's piston before si-1 but after amsoil ;pi and maybe techron, I forget. Maybe he chime in. @Hemi395

look at the edges, this is how oil gets through old rings. Carbon build up creates little galleys. Eventually rings fail and nothing will help, but cleaning them prolongs their lifespan.

.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

before pic would help, lol. This is corey's piston before si-1 but after amsoil ;pi and maybe techron, I forget. Maybe he chime in. @Hemi395

look at the edges, this is how oil gets through old rings. Carbon build up creates little galleys. Eventually rings fail and nothing will help, but cleaning them prolongs their lifespan.

.

View attachment 538664

The before and after is a big difference. The redline comes tomorrow and I'll give it a try! I've already run seafoam so should be good there

 

[Mister Luck]

My truck is a 2010 1500 with the 5.7. I just rolled over to 170k miles.

I'm using about 1 quart every 2400 miles. I'm aware dodge says 1 quart per 1k miles is normal.

I've changed the pcv valve and noticed little difference. There is oil in my throttle body, which is why I changed the pcv valve about 1200 miles ago.

My question: since I've got 170k on the engine, is the best course of action to just occasionally top off the oil? Can anything be done, such as switching oil brands, additives like seafoam in the crankcase, etc., to try to slow the oil consumption? This is my 3rd ram and the first one I've had that uses oil. Seems unusual to me.

Thanks all

Have you found where the oil is going ?
Back through the crankcase return hoses you mentioned the PCV but saw no difference.. do you look in the throttle body intake return ?
Have you found any obvious pudding or leaks ?
Do you smell burning oil under the hood after driving ?
Does the tail pipe have extra soot or is your gas mileage suffering ?

Did you mention any codes thrown ?

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

Have you found where the oil is going ?
Back through the crankcase return hoses you mentioned the PCV but saw no difference.. do you look in the throttle body intake return ?
Have you found any obvious pudding or leaks ?
Do you smell burning oil under the hood after driving ?
Does the tail pipe have extra soot or is your gas mileage suffering ?

Did you mention any codes thrown ?

The throttle body is coated in oil, not sure what the throttle body intake return is?

Mileage seems to be normal and I don't see soot in the tail pipe or smoke while driving.

I definitely have no external leaks as I keep a close watch for leaks on my driveway and am under the truck often.

No engine light has illuminated so I haven't scanned for codes. If you think it will be helpful I can use my code reader on it.

 

[JHoward]

The throttle body is coated in oil, not sure what the throttle body intake return is?

Mileage seems to be normal and I don't see soot in the tail pipe or smoke while driving.

I definitely have no external leaks as I keep a close watch for leaks on my driveway and am under the truck often.

No engine light has illuminated so I haven't scanned for codes. If you think it will be helpful I can use my code reader on it.

Also, If your not using an oil catch can, maybe installing one will help to reduce that oil build up your seeing in the throttle body and to help keep it cleaner.

When I get my truck back and in "visual good health", that'll be the next simple "mod" that I add.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

Also, If your not using an oil catch can, maybe installing one will help to reduce that oil build up your seeing in the throttle body and to help keep it cleaner.

When I get my truck back and in "visual good health", that'll be the next simple "mod" that I add.

I will look into the catch can as I don't like the oil all over the throttle body.

 

[JHoward]

I will look into the catch can as I don't like the oil all over the throttle body.

So far, you've had plenty of good advice about how to go about possibly solving your HEMI's oil issue and hopefully you tackle that issue and get some peace off mind.

Fwiw, you have an older engine with some miles, expect something to pop up!

Keep on keeping on, take care of that "ol' Grandpa HEMI"!

 

[ppine]

It is likely that your engine is showing signs of wear and getting close to the end of its life. Rings would be the obvious problem. Do you have any smoke on start up? In the old days we ran STP in worn engines and straight 40 weight oil.

For Arizona your oil is too thin. Keep trying some different heavier oil weights . 40/15 comes to mind.