Oil Filter Thread

[Burla]

My last oil change I switched to the Purolator BOSS Filter Part No. PBL12222. My local Advance auto parts store keeps them in stock and I wanted to try it as a test. So far my truck idles smooth and runs great but its early yet.

I know @Burla doesn't like purolator but I tried it anyway lol

To clarify, I didn't like the results I got from Purolator and I have said it was old design, they changed the design shorty after I tested it. It was funny the factory video's didnt show a bypass, so I'm glad the reviewer did. Until you posted that review I didnt know if the new puro even had one. The issue with the puro I tested was bad holes in the cage, clearly that is no longer an issue. Thanks for review, Puro gets a Burla seal of approval.

The old issue you can see if you expand photo, not enough holes for flow. IMO a pretty bush league mistake, but it is good to see they really fixed it up nice. The big difference now is the way they bind the media, that plastic stuff versus mesh of RP, I have no opinion which is better, I just don't know. Bottom line it looks like another viable synthetic filter, thanks JB.

 

[JB1]

To clarify, I didn't like the results I got from Purolator and I have said it was old design, they changed the design shorty after I tested it. It was funny the factory video's didnt show a bypass, so I'm glad the reviewer did. Until you posted that review I didnt know if the new puro even had one. The issue with the puro I tested was bad holes in the cage, clearly that is no longer an issue. Thanks for review, Puro gets a Burla seal of approval.

The old issue you can see if you expand photo, not enough holes for flow. IMO a pretty bush league mistake, but it is good to see they really fixed it up nice. The big difference now is the way they bind the media, that plastic stuff versus mesh of RP, I have no opinion which is better, I just don't know. Bottom line it looks like another viable synthetic filter, thanks JB.

I wanted a good filter I could source locally, I saw this filter mentioned by some other members, did a little more research and decided to give it a try. So far my engine is running smooth and quiet.

 

[Musky Mike]

So after the RP/Amsoil and Fram Ultra, what is the next best filter?

 

[Burla]

So after the RP/Amsoil and Fram Ultra, what is the next best filter?

wix xp and boss puro look good...

 

[Hemi395]

Can't go wrong with WixXP[emoji106]

 

[Ludville1]

Looks like the Purolator Boss is another good choice...

 

[Cableman]

Changed wifes toyota filter/oil, old filter is walmart bought fram ultra made in china, new one is amazon bought, made in usa but has less pleats. Wonder why
Old one had 7k miles, still pliable.

 

[mbryanr2019]

@Lyle Longboat & @14Tradesman thanks for bringing is good info, let's find out what is happening. Most of us have a lot of filters stocked up, so it will be up to guys without backstock to update if RP is still making a quality filter. With current info those still look like a great filter, absent the thread issue. But, it wont take much more to say look at amsoil ea and other filter first if there are any more issues.

Welp, I did an oil change yesterday, saw that the new RP was made from January 28th of this year... Remember reading this thread and thought..what will happen?

Started it up and it was 5-8 psi higher than normal, it maintains a minimum of 5psi higher when warm, idle, or under throttle.
I will be changing it soon.

Note: last 4 oil changes have been with the exact same oil and RP 10-48 filter. I have memorized the exact pressure to expect in every condition.

 

[NY Andrew]

Welp, I did an oil change yesterday, saw that the new RP was made from January 28th of this year... Remember reading this thread and thought..what will happen?

Started it up and it was 5-8 psi higher than normal, it maintains a minimum of 5psi higher when warm, idle, or under throttle.
I will be changing it soon.

Note: last 4 oil changes have been with the exact same oil and RP 10-48 filter. I have memorized the exact pressure to expect in every condition.

I started that thread. Interesting!!!!!

Just did oil/filter change yesterday as well and haven’t driven yet besides idling but with my 2019 stock of RP 10–48 idle PSI is identical. What exactly is your PSI numbers? And what oil weight (I’m assuming Redline)?

Unsure which filter I’m switching to once I finish my last 4 RP’s but that won’t be for another 4 years since I do one a year hah.

 

[ripping r]

I have one SRT filter left. the slits in the cheese grader looks good to me.

 

[mbryanr2019]

I started that thread. Interesting!!!!!

Just did oil/filter change yesterday as well and haven’t driven yet besides idling but with my 2019 stock of RP 10–48 idle PSI is identical. What exactly is your PSI numbers? And what oil weight (I’m assuming Redline)?

Unsure which filter I’m switching to once I finish my last 4 RP’s but that won’t be for another 4 years since I do one a year hah.

Idle pressure of 49-50 when warm, normally 44 or less.
Max of 60 warm (didn't go higher than 70 mph), normally max at 53 under heavy throttle.
Max at 64 cold ish at 60mph, normally worse case 55.

Same Redline 5w30 as usual.
Nothing else changed.

 

[NY Andrew]

Idle pressure of 49-50 when warm, normally 44 or less.
Max of 60 warm (didn't go higher than 70 mph), normally max at 53.
Max at 64 cold ish at 60mph, normally worse case 55.

Same Redline 5w30 as usual.
Nothing else changed.

I know this isn’t exactly a direct side by side comparison (really didn’t think about it until after the fact; could maybe get 150° idle temp to compare) but idling:

70° outside.

Before oil/filter change:
<122° = 58 PSI
150° = 50 PSI

After oil/filter change:
<122° = 56 PSI
125° = 55 PSI

 

[NY Andrew]

Was a bit harder breaking open this 2019 batch RP 10-48 than the OEM oil filter, but looks cleaner than the OEM..hoping the reason OEM had more metal flakes was because it was brand new engine and not because the RP ain't catching them and they all going back into the engine...unless I somehow shook the oil filter so much it ripped the flakes loose from the material (doubtful).

This is my second oil/filter change with 3,612 miles on Redline 5W-20. OEM oil/filter had 2,871 miles. Maybe it's pretty broken in and it's a super healthy engine now, but to me this comparison proves it's a safe good idea to change oil/filter before 3k miles on new vehicle. After 3k miles she seems pretty clean.

Left is OEM. Right is RP.

 

[Burla]

Thanks for cutting them open, if you want to see how much metal is in engine, many of us run magnets on the filters.

 

[NY Andrew]

@Burla debated those for years, but this seems to sum up my stance:

 

[texan279]

Switched from Royal Purple to the Purolator Boss today. I know probably doesn't help anything but I took a couple of pics...

 

[ripping r]

Thanks for cutting them open, if you want to see how much metal is in engine, many of us run magnets on the filters.

Im going to get some filtermags.

 

[Wild one]

Im going to get some filtermags.

I just run a small high powered Neo mag stuck onto the drain plug on my truck.

 

[mbryanr2019]

I know this isn’t exactly a direct side by side comparison (really didn’t think about it until after the fact; could maybe get 150° idle temp to compare) but idling:

70° outside.

Before oil/filter change:
<122° = 58 PSI
150° = 50 PSI

After oil/filter change:
<122° = 56 PSI
125° = 55 PSI

I wonder... I also put the Fumoto drain plug in last time. I checked oil and it's definitely full, maybe a touch over. Wonder if it leaves a little in compared to just the drain plug.

 

[srv1]

does anyone fill their oil filter before they install it?it seems like the right thing to do to avoid the second or two of initial dry start up.i have always filled mine,just wondering if anyone else does and if it really matters.