Oil pressure too high... Engine shut off on me once

[dchapma1957]

Ok folks, I do not think the oil pressure is causing anything. Started it this morning and ran in the house to grab my wallet. Less than 30 seconds after starting it it simply quit. No codes, nothing. Tried to start it, it engages the starter for like a half second and stops. Turn key off, wait 10 seconds, and it starts right up.

I then drove it for almost an hour running some errands. Pressure at full temp 42 PSI at idle and 65 - 70 cruising. MDS system seems to be working fine, engine has lots of power, runs strong. I had no issues afger that first start.

I am not going to do anything to the sensor or voltage at this point. Maybe I just let it warm up a bit before driving it? I don't kn ow. I WISH there was a stored code to give me a clue.

 

[dchapma1957]

Thats why im currently training my daughter And she owns this massive POS , so she's getting quite the education... Always something to do on an Ecotick.


Wife isnt bad as well, got her to change her own front seals on the JK


Im sure glad my dad raised me right . I cant imagine paying to get all that done.



View attachment 551955

My rule all my life was I am not paying anyone to do something I know I can do. That goes for home improvements of all types, car repair, fences, electronics repair, appliances, you name it! Hell, I did a frame off restoration of a 1970 JUDGE, including all the body work and shooting PPG Base/Clear on it. That car was a constant show winner.

I will still do most everything but lying under a car wrenching, in the Florida heat and humidity is a bit much these days.

 

[dchapma1957]

I'm just not sure I ever heard of an ECM shutting down a motor because pressure is too high.

Yea, I am no longer convinced it is that. Whatever it is, it only happens when the engine is cold. Like this morning idling fine for ~ 20-30 seconds and just quit.

 

[Scottly]

Yea, I am no longer convinced it is that. Whatever it is, it only happens when the engine is cold. Like this morning idling fine for ~ 20-30 seconds and just quit.

They need a bunch more fuel when they are cold. SOme fuel pumps quit when they get hot...Some quit when more is demanded from them. That's where I would start.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I'm just not sure I ever heard of an ECM shutting down a motor because pressure is too high.

Well, there ya go! The statement of "I never heard of" something leaves things to be learned! ECM's can do a lot. And we are ALL still learning!

 

[Tominator223]

I put hv oil pump in 85 302 crown vic. In about 89-90. Unknown to me the car had an oil sensor in the pan to shut off if the oil was low. So I go out to test drive & if I got on the frwy under hard acceleration . The car would stall out just after reaching frwy speeds. The pump was emptying the pan & the drain back was slow. This made the the car think the oil pan was empty(it was) & shut it off. So I put a stock pump back in . Problem solved. My 2cents

 

[Dusty]

I'm just not sure I ever heard of an ECM shutting down a motor because pressure is too high.

I once saw the message list for the Ram and noticed message sets I would never expect seeing. One was "High Water Content" as a fuel code. The newer PCMs are smarter than we think.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 120121 miles.

 

[Clarks Customs]

I used the same oil pump on my GEN IV hemi rebuild because the Melling 10452HV was on backorder. I installed the M452HV (both are Hi-Vol pumps) during the rebuild and forgot to change out the pressure spring. I realized my mistake of not replacing the spring upon first startup and test drive when the ECM set off an P0520 error code. During the drive I was checking the oil pressure which reached 92 PSI @ 3200 RPM cold, then dropped to 87 PSI at 197* temp. I am running 5W-30W Mobil 1 oil with a Mobil 1 M1-110A. At no time did the engine shut down, it only set the code for "oil pressure out of range."
I did not want to disassemble to install the old spring, so I opted to install the resister to fool the ECM. In retrospect, I am glad to have gone this route with the inherent issues with the hemi oiling issues on the upper end. With the resister option I retain both Hi-Vol and Hi-PSI which will extend the life of the cam and lifters. Now my oil pressure cold is 78 PSI and 58 PSI @ 197 degrees.

 

[Wild one]

I used the same oil pump on my GEN IV hemi rebuild because the Melling 10452HV was on backorder. I installed the M452HV (both are Hi-Vol pumps) during the rebuild and forgot to change out the pressure spring. I realized my mistake of not replacing the spring upon first startup and test drive when the ECM set off an P0520 error code. During the drive I was checking the oil pressure which reached 92 PSI @ 3200 RPM cold, then dropped to 87 PSI at 197* temp. I am running 5W-30W Mobil 1 oil with a Mobil 1 M1-110A. At no time did the engine shut down, it only set the code for "oil pressure out of range."
I did not want to disassemble to install the old spring, so I opted to install the resister to fool the ECM. In retrospect, I am glad to have gone this route with the inherent issues with the hemi oiling issues on the upper end. With the resister option I retain both Hi-Vol and Hi-PSI which will extend the life of the cam and lifters. Now my oil pressure cold is 78 PSI and 58 PSI @ 197 degrees.

Unless you upped the idle rpm,the HV pumps don't really accomplish all that much.There is "no pressurized " oil fed to the cam lobes and lifter rollers,they hang out in the open in the middle of the crankcase,and still rely mostly on crank splash for their lube

 

[Wild one]

Inexperience and rushing my research - that is how I settled on this pump. I can try the Hellcat sender - easy enough to swap out. I am not opposed to the resistors either - I have them on hand and could rig that up pretty quickly.
The instructions that came with it are below and do indicate that it has a 65 PSI spring in it. But I am way over 65PSI - it hit 80 yesterday on a good acceleration.

I do appreciate all the comments and information. Not sure which direction I will go yet. I'll keep the group posted as this information may help someone in the future.

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These instructions lead me to believe it would top out at 65 PSI.

I don't blame you,as those instructions definitely say it has the 65 psi spring in it.

 

[Ken226]

Ok folks, I do not think the oil pressure is causing anything. Started it this morning and ran in the house to grab my wallet. Less than 30 seconds after starting it it simply quit. No codes, nothing. Tried to start it, it engages the starter for like a half second and stops. Turn key off, wait 10 seconds, and it starts right up.

I then drove it for almost an hour running some errands. Pressure at full temp 42 PSI at idle and 65 - 70 cruising. MDS system seems to be working fine, engine has lots of power, runs strong. I had no issues afger that first start.

I am not going to do anything to the sensor or voltage at this point. Maybe I just let it warm up a bit before driving it? I don't kn ow. I WISH there was a stored code to give me a clue.

Did you replace anything else during this cam swap process, or immediately before, that you havn't mentioned?

Particularly, any aftermarket sensors, ignition coils, or the like? Even if it's something small, that you wouldn't think relevant?

 

[Hagar1]

I've never been able to convince the wife i'm right CJ. On a cloudless day,i could tell her the sky is blue,and i'd still be wrong

Maybe it was 12:00 midnight.

 

[EdGs]

To just quit like that, with no codes makes me think loose connection/ground somewhere. Engine ground?

Intermittents can really suck sometimes. I'm sure you'll get it sorted.

I had an Olds Calais with the quad 4 engine. It had a habit of just dying, usually at a stoplight. Crank, crank, crank.......nothing. Let it sit 10 minutes, all good. Completely random shutdown. Bought a new ECM, swapped the eprom, problem solved.

 

[Sherman Bird]

To just quit like that, with no codes makes me think loose connection/ground somewhere. Engine ground?

Intermittents can really suck sometimes. I'm sure you'll get it sorted.

I had an Olds Calais with the quad 4 engine. It had a habit of just dying, usually at a stoplight. Crank, crank, crank.......nothing. Let it sit 10 minutes, all good. Completely random shutdown. Bought a new ECM, swapped the eprom, problem solved.

The "Quad4" engine was GM's first waste spark engine, I believe. It would confuse technicians who failed to keep up with technical advancements. They had problems with the coil pack ground pathway jumping sparks across the rubber isolator on the Harmonic balancer! Talk about a nightmare to diagnose for those less schooled on engine ignition systems!
Gawd! I miss those good old days!

 

[EdGs]

The "Quad4" engine was GM's first waste spark engine, I believe. It would confuse technicians who failed to keep up with technical advancements. They had problems with the coil pack ground pathway jumping sparks across the rubber isolator on the Harmonic balancer! Talk about a nightmare to diagnose for those less schooled on engine ignition systems!
Gawd! I miss those good old days!

I really liked that car, it was pretty agile for what it was.

I did have to replace the coil tower assembly twice due to cracking/carbon tracking.

 

[EdGs]

To just quit like that, with no codes makes me think loose connection/ground somewhere. Engine ground?

Intermittents can really suck sometimes. I'm sure you'll get it sorted.

I had an Olds Calais with the quad 4 engine. It had a habit of just dying, usually at a stoplight. Crank, crank, crank.......nothing. Let it sit 10 minutes, all good. Completely random shutdown. Bought a new ECM, swapped the eprom, problem solved.

Having mentioned loose connector/ground issue, if it wasn't there pre-repair, hopefully just a missed connector or loose ground.

I think you will find it, hang in there.

 

[dchapma1957]

Did you replace anything else during this cam swap process, or immediately before, that you havn't mentioned?

Particularly, any aftermarket sensors, ignition coils, or the like? Even if it's something small, that you wouldn't think relevant?

I did replace all ignition coils (Amazon purchase), but a few weeks before I got the sticker shock at the dealer. Also replaced all 4 MDS and the VVT solenoids with units from Rock Auto during the repair.

 

[dchapma1957]

The "Quad4" engine was GM's first waste spark engine, I believe. It would confuse technicians who failed to keep up with technical advancements. They had problems with the coil pack ground pathway jumping sparks across the rubber isolator on the Harmonic balancer! Talk about a nightmare to diagnose for those less schooled on engine ignition systems!
Gawd! I miss those good old days!

I will poke around tomorrow and look at the wiring. I know for sure I landed both ground wires on the back of the heads and made them tight. Those are the only 2 ground wires I disturbed.

 

[dchapma1957]

I used the same oil pump on my GEN IV hemi rebuild because the Melling 10452HV was on backorder. I installed the M452HV (both are Hi-Vol pumps) during the rebuild and forgot to change out the pressure spring. I realized my mistake of not replacing the spring upon first startup and test drive when the ECM set off an P0520 error code. During the drive I was checking the oil pressure which reached 92 PSI @ 3200 RPM cold, then dropped to 87 PSI at 197* temp. I am running 5W-30W Mobil 1 oil with a Mobil 1 M1-110A. At no time did the engine shut down, it only set the code for "oil pressure out of range."
I did not want to disassemble to install the old spring, so I opted to install the resister to fool the ECM. In retrospect, I am glad to have gone this route with the inherent issues with the hemi oiling issues on the upper end. With the resister option I retain both Hi-Vol and Hi-PSI which will extend the life of the cam and lifters. Now my oil pressure cold is 78 PSI and 58 PSI @ 197 degrees.

So far I have not thrown any P0520 codes and the highest I have seen the pressure was 80, fully warmed up on hard acceleration. At idle, fully warm I am getting in th elow 40s and cruising around 68.

I am prepared to do the resistors. Did you use 1K and 7.4K resistors?

 

[JHoward]

Since 5w20 is the OEM oil, I don't think it'll hurt to try it.

The smaller diameter oil filters tend to result in lower oil pressure as well.

It's worth a shot. Easier than stripping it apart and putting a standard OEM oil pump back in.

My truck is 30 hot idle and 65-70 at highway speeds using 5w20 and the large diameter Mopar filter. My engine is bone stock, never been opened up, with 90,000 miles.

With the small diameter Mopar filter I get 25 hot idle, and 55ish at highway speeds.

My 2017 5.7 HEMI isn't anywhere like this.

My truck is also "bone stock" and @ 53,000 miles... I'm using Red Line 5w/30 and an Purolator Boss oil filter and cold start up oil psi is ~55-58 psi.

Cruising at 70 highway speeds is 53-55 psi.

Hot idle is 48-49 psi.

When I was using an Royal Purple 20-820 oil filter and Red Line 5w/30, these numbers were exact.

Conclusion, not every HEMI engine is the same.