P0305 Cylinder Misfire, Flashing Engine Light @3k rpm HELP I tried a few things
- Thread starter SimonStu
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SimonStu
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About 268'000kms, that be around 166k miles.
It did cross my mind but ultimately wasn't planning on it, unless i find something wrong with it along the way. Should I? This bill is starting to stack up lol
It did cross my mind but ultimately wasn't planning on it, unless i find something wrong with it along the way. Should I? This bill is starting to stack up lol
jws123
Senior Member
You have to remove the oil pump any ways to set the timing 100% most guess and try to make marks and they almost always bend their valves. To do it in the truck you remove all pan bolts and let the front of the pan hang down a lil so you can get the bolt out of the oil pump/filler tube try not to kill the gasket they are stubborn sometimes.
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SimonStu
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Noticed there was a bit of a scratch in one head, think it happened when I pulled it. It's not crazy deep but not sure if it will seal. Any advice besides bringing it to a machinist?
Otherwise does it look okay? Tried cleaning it gently with a razor and varsol.
Also i noticed the new lifters all have a hole, i wonder if that is for more oil pickup so they wouldn't fail as easy? None the less I will be using a zinc additive.
Otherwise does it look okay? Tried cleaning it gently with a razor and varsol.
Also i noticed the new lifters all have a hole, i wonder if that is for more oil pickup so they wouldn't fail as easy? None the less I will be using a zinc additive.
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SimonStu
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I thought if I could put cyl 1 at TDC with the two chain marks and everything in line dead center on the top, mark chain and sprocket, keep tension on chain and make sure it remains on bottom sprocket then tie up with tension on.
To re assemble just line up markings on chain with upper sprocket and perfectlt center it on new cam.
jws123
Senior Member
You can I have done it few times that way but still easy to mess up the way your suppose to do it with the colored links 100% guarantees its set right do it whatever way you want tho lol.
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SimonStu
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Yea not sure what or how exactly I am going to do it. Might change plans.
Tried cleaning heads up a bit, not sure most visible scratches are smooth, except one can get finger nail caught a bit. Will Felpro MLS head gasket seal it?
https://youtu.be/g286HSffGe4 That's the one I have on order anyway.
Tried cleaning heads up a bit, not sure most visible scratches are smooth, except one can get finger nail caught a bit. Will Felpro MLS head gasket seal it?
https://youtu.be/g286HSffGe4 That's the one I have on order anyway.
jws123
Senior Member
0:54 and 1:02 Is that pitting or just trash on the surface? does look like they need to be cleaned a bit more. Personally I lightly use a wire brush on a drill but people have their own opinions other then that I think your fine. Also by the way do yourself a favor lol while the heads are off its 100x easier to change the spark plugs if they are due.
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SimonStu
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Yes I have a set of 16 OEM spark plugs on hand. Valves should be fine? Springs appear all good.
That in the video is pitting, I think it might have been caused by a failed sparkplug. I removed one not long ago where the ceramic was fallen apart, I wonder if that pitting could've been the aftermath? Cylinder walls look all fine.
The scratch on the surface the end isn't a big deal, will it seal alright?
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SimonStu
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Just use a good Felpro Teflon coated head gasket and you should be fine, Great job so far!!!
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SimonStu
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Thank you!
I ordered the FelPro MLS gaskets, appears that is what was on there originally.
Last night I tried removing the fan clutch, which has been the most challenging part yet, ended up using a reciprocating saw after 6 hours of trying everything.
Didn't have proper tool to hold backup while cranking on nut, tried holding tension with belt which Didn't work, ended up building basically the same tool they would sell to hold backup but still didn't losen, tried smashing it with hammer/prybar on the edge of nut, tried heating nut up with torch, tried spinning it both directions, NOTHING worked.
Must be all the salt water spraying around in the winter here in Canada. Lol.
Non the less I got it off with the saw 1/4 of a day later, so I can atleast salvage the fan blades, probably best to change the fan clutch anyways as waterpump had too much play. All good, parts are on the way; waterpump, fan clutch, thermostat gasket and an o-ring.
Next step will be pulling timing cover.
Just waiting for my pulley puller in mail now and new camshaft to get into this chapter.
I ordered the FelPro MLS gaskets, appears that is what was on there originally.
Last night I tried removing the fan clutch, which has been the most challenging part yet, ended up using a reciprocating saw after 6 hours of trying everything.
Didn't have proper tool to hold backup while cranking on nut, tried holding tension with belt which Didn't work, ended up building basically the same tool they would sell to hold backup but still didn't losen, tried smashing it with hammer/prybar on the edge of nut, tried heating nut up with torch, tried spinning it both directions, NOTHING worked.
Must be all the salt water spraying around in the winter here in Canada. Lol.
Non the less I got it off with the saw 1/4 of a day later, so I can atleast salvage the fan blades, probably best to change the fan clutch anyways as waterpump had too much play. All good, parts are on the way; waterpump, fan clutch, thermostat gasket and an o-ring.
Next step will be pulling timing cover.
Just waiting for my pulley puller in mail now and new camshaft to get into this chapter.
Daw14
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Fan is left hand thread . Should put a real good straight edge on the head where you were sanding to be sure there’s no low spots.
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SimonStu
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Trust me I tried every direction possible lol, but I believe 2013+ is left hand thread. Nothing worked but saw.
Now what is the best way to clean the timing cover where the waterpump bolts to? I lightly scrapped whatever I could off with a razor. How clean does it have to be?
Sherman Bird
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If the water pump pulley is smooth on its outside belt contact surface, then the threads are right hand (lefty loosie, righty tighty) This rule applies across the board regardless of manufacturer.
Rlaf75
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If I saw this post earlier I would've given you the fan clutch off my 11 Ram. When I still had the truck I removed it for the electric fan mod.
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SimonStu
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Finally all new parts arrived this week Monday, was a shame that we had a long weekend else I could've put it together last week but postal services were all closed.
Anyways, back on track:
Got the old cam out today and the new one lubed up and installed, now the rest of the engine has to be reassembled, wish me luck lol.
As suspected, the cam lobe was totally grinded down and others were not far behind.,.
Anyways, back on track:
Got the old cam out today and the new one lubed up and installed, now the rest of the engine has to be reassembled, wish me luck lol.
As suspected, the cam lobe was totally grinded down and others were not far behind.,.
Sherman Bird
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Looks like the manufacturer skimped on metallurgy.
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SimonStu
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Yea not too sure, maybe because it is one of the earlier 4th gen 5.7L?
Wondering, what goes back on this plastic fitting? Haha, been a couple weeks now, and can't seem to find anything that would go there. Top of intake manifold, 2nd hose fitting front front of engine.
I replaced push rods intake and exhaust and torqued the rocker rails down to 16ft/lbs. Still some play in the rocker arms, maybe because engine hasn't been primed yet?
Otherwise it's coming along great, hoping to have it running later this evening.
Wondering, what goes back on this plastic fitting? Haha, been a couple weeks now, and can't seem to find anything that would go there. Top of intake manifold, 2nd hose fitting front front of engine.
I replaced push rods intake and exhaust and torqued the rocker rails down to 16ft/lbs. Still some play in the rocker arms, maybe because engine hasn't been primed yet?
Otherwise it's coming along great, hoping to have it running later this evening.
