P0305 Cylinder Misfire, Flashing Engine Light @3k rpm HELP I tried a few things

[jws123]

Pre sure the vacuum line for your brake booster i see the hose on the right.

 

[SimonStu]

Pre sure the vacuum line for your brake booster i see the hose on the right.

Thank you very much!
I suppose that's why the ol' lady calls me 4 eyes... not even glasses help, lol.

 

[Burn2k12Ram]

Great progress. Can't wait to see end result. So you stuck with the stock oil pump? Anyway what lubrication strategy you going with as many suspect that is the issue in first place(lack of correct additives for these motors).

 

[SimonStu]

Thank you, I am a little nervous yet lol. Yes, it's actually a quite easy job as someone already stated, mainly waiting on parts was the time consuming part... so yea, if I have to change out pump for whatever reason, it should be a pretty straight forward, weekend job. I have visitors coming in 8 days so I have to get this thing back together.

I think I will stick to a 5w20 conventional, or 5w20 high milage with 1 quart of a zinc additive from now on. And do frequent oil changes 5000kms/ 3500 miles.
My main rear seal drips a bit too, so I check often and add new oil frequently again.
But I ran pennzoil platinum ultra full synthetic 5w20 and it seemed to speed up the damage, as the trucks performance deteriorated not long after. Alot of people recommend that stuff, but I think I will just stick to Motomaster oil with zinc additive to protect the cam and lifters from now on.
Canadian Tire here sells it for a good price on sale and been using it for years in all my vehicles without engine failures or any issues.

I just got this truck in March and am already nearly 5k into it with parts. Yikes

 

[jws123]

Thank you, I am a little nervous yet lol. Yes, it's actually a quite easy job as someone already stated, mainly waiting on parts was the time consuming part... so yea, if I have to change out pump for whatever reason, it should be a pretty straight forward, weekend job. I have visitors coming in 8 days so I have to get this thing back together.

I think I will stick to a 5w20 conventional, or 5w20 high milage with 1 quart of a zinc additive from now on. And do frequent oil changes 5000kms/ 3500 miles.
My main rear seal drips a bit too, so I check often and add new oil frequently again.
But I ran pennzoil platinum ultra full synthetic 5w20 and it seemed to speed up the damage, as the trucks performance deteriorated not long after. Alot of people recommend that stuff, but I think I will just stick to Motomaster oil with zinc additive to protect the cam and lifters from now on.
Canadian Tire here sells it for a good price on sale and been using it for years in all my vehicles without engine failures or any issues.

I just got this truck in March and am already nearly 5k into it with parts. Yikes

We all basically went to 5w30 20 is to thin in my opinion most think that as well. I use Pennzoil platinum syn 5w30 truck runs great on it a lot quieter also don't be scared when you start it up the lifters will be noisy until they break in/heat cycle a few times I used same lifters in mine.

 

[Wild one]

Thank you, I am a little nervous yet lol. Yes, it's actually a quite easy job as someone already stated, mainly waiting on parts was the time consuming part... so yea, if I have to change out pump for whatever reason, it should be a pretty straight forward, weekend job. I have visitors coming in 8 days so I have to get this thing back together.

I think I will stick to a 5w20 conventional, or 5w20 high milage with 1 quart of a zinc additive from now on. And do frequent oil changes 5000kms/ 3500 miles.
My main rear seal drips a bit too, so I check often and add new oil frequently again.
But I ran pennzoil platinum ultra full synthetic 5w20 and it seemed to speed up the damage, as the trucks performance deteriorated not long after. Alot of people recommend that stuff, but I think I will just stick to Motomaster oil with zinc additive to protect the cam and lifters from now on.
Canadian Tire here sells it for a good price on sale and been using it for years in all my vehicles without engine failures or any issues.

I just got this truck in March and am already nearly 5k into it with parts. Yikes

Read the note at the bottom,this is from the 700 page printed owners manual for my 14.Even FCA says 5W-30 is okay

 

[SimonStu]

I haven't tried 5w30 yet, will see, probably going to run this oil a few 100 kms and then change again as top end is new. It sure does seem quite thin, but as I live in Central Canada I thought it be ok with the cooler climate.

 

[huntergreen]

I haven't tried 5w30 yet, will see, probably going to run this oil a few 100 kms and then change again as top end is new. It sure does seem quite thin, but as I live in Central Canada I thought it be ok with the cooler climate.

You could check out the synthetic oil thread and see what others are using why.

 

[SimonStu]

Here we go, it's running, BAD! Not sure was throwing a p0320 code, had a new cam position sensor laying around didn't help.... timing off?...

Ouch

https://youtu.be/SEBYntkaEM4

 

[SimonStu]

Tore it apart down to the timing chain again... 1.5hrs not too bad.

Now, looking at the bottom crank the key hole is at the 2 o clock position, but cam is way off center by the looks of it. Which tells me cyl 1 is at TDC, correct?



If i mark chain at tdc the way it is, remove chain from cam but leave tension on bottom, then center cam and line everything back up. Will that work?

 

[SimonStu]

Marks seem to line up now after another hand crank. But truck ran horribly

 

[SimonStu]

Pulled both valve covers and Hand cranked engine. All valves are moving fine and pushrods are tight and seated.

 

[SimonStu]

When i disassembled everything i noticed ground strap was broken the one coming from both heads, i replaced it with a new one and attached to the body where that aluminum heat cover protects the body, i wonder if it wasn't very good ground since it was grounded onto the aluminum.

Not sure what else... putting timing cover back on as that seems like it's all good.

 

[SimonStu]

Assembled engine again, didn't install cooling system yet, nor tranny lines duh... started the truck anyways and sounded a bit better, still idled rough tho. Tranny obviously p*ssed oil out of lines and had to shut er down. Then lost spring clips for tranny. Time for a break, this is getting painful.

 

[Arstar]

Hang in there. Take a breath. Hate to say it, but it's like this guy said earlier...
Cam degrees are real easy to be off. Using a degree wheel is the only absolute sure way your cam is set right. You've made it this far- we're all rooting for ya!

You can I have done it few times that way but still easy to mess up the way your suppose to do it with the colored links 100% guarantees its set right do it whatever way you want tho lol.

 

[SimonStu]

https://youtube.com/shorts/QWXAc2L6_0c?feature=share

This is how I end the term on this weekend. Not sure.
Going to have to start looking for a new vehicle in the meanwhile, save up and get it towed to a mechanic.

Changed out intake manifold gaskets too. And grounded heads good too.
No engine code, but pinging, clunking.

 

[jws123]

https://youtube.com/shorts/QWXAc2L6_0c?feature=share

This is how I end the term on this weekend. Not sure.
Going to have to start looking for a new vehicle in the meanwhile, save up and get it towed to a mechanic.

Changed out intake manifold gaskets too. And grounded heads good too.
No engine code, but pinging, clunking.

Double and triple check push rods the most common cause of misfire after cam they can appear to be clicked in and one wont be all the way. I do this literally almost every time I rebuild a 5.7 never fails Also you may wanna check the VVT solenoid easy to break when pulling the cam.

 

[SimonStu]

Yea i hand cranked engine so many times today checking every rod, valve spring, movement, rocker arm lash and all seemed to check out alright.

Yes I had that sensor unplugged at initial start up, missed it.

Then had a brand new spare cam sensor kicking around I installed aswell, without noticable change.

 

[jws123]

Yea i hand cranked engine so many times today checking every rod, valve spring, movement, rocker arm lash and all seemed to check out alright.

Yes I had that sensor unplugged at initial start up, missed it.

Then had a brand new spare cam sensor kicking around I installed aswell, without noticable change.

Check compression just to rule that out to make sure you didn't bend any valves check all coil/injector connections not to hard to plug them in 1 cylinder off. I am not concerned with engine noise because you just put new lifters they are always noisy for a while.

 

[SimonStu]

Not sure, probably will pull valve covers, rockers and pushrods and reseat everything again.

Otherwise I can't spot anything suspicious. Was running worse before i tore it apart a 2nd time, but still not good.