P305 code is driving me crazy

[Jdennis1989]

I have a 2015 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi with 175,000 miles on it. I’ve had a ticking noise for the last few thousand miles which I assume is the exhaust manifold. The other day it starts bogging down at low idle, not too bad, but noticeable and worse when put into reverse. At any speed though it’s nonexistent. It throws the P305 code on me saying misfire in cylinder 5.

I haven’t changed the spark plugs in God knows when. So I changed them on that cylinder. Doesn’t fix it, so I changed the coil. Doesn’t fix it, so I think maybe it’s the exhaust manifold because of the ticking sound. Doesn’t fix it, or the ticking either. I listen a little better and the ticking is probably coming the passenger side that I haven’t replaced yet. Either way I changed the fuel injectors. Doesn’t fix it!!!!!! Please what would the next logical step be?!? I’m at my wits end.

 

[Ken226]

Cylinder 5 misfire and ticking sounds like really bad news. Read through @EdGs thread, here just above or just below this one.

"Do I have a lifter going out"

 

[Ken226]

Thread 'Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!' https://www.ramforum.com/threads/do-i-have-a-lifter-going-out-yes-i-do.218028/

 

[Daw14]

You could remove the valve covers , then crank the engine and observe all the rocker arms , these should all move the same amount.
Up and down .
If one or more do not move as much as the others , that would point to the bad cylinder .
Also would be good to see if any exhaust manifold bolts or studs are loose or appear broken.
The heat shields may also be loose and rattling, that would be another bolt issue.
A mechanic’s stethoscope, or dowel rod , long screwdriver, could also be used to help narrow down where the sound originates. One end to your ear , the other on the suspect part.

 

[EdGs]

^^^^This^^^^

When mine was ticking, I first made sure I didn't have any broken exhaust manifold bolts. I didn't.

Was at 201,192 miles, btw.

I bought a cheap mechanics stethascope from harbor freight and started placing it close to where the block and head join together on the intake side of the head. There are 2 lifters for each cylinder.

This is the driver's side of the block. Cylinders 1, 3, 5, and 7.

Along the top are the 8 lifters on that side. I believe exhaust lifter is on the left and intake lifter is on the right for each cylinder.

So if you can get the stethascope near the base of the head on either side of the intake port, you should be able to hear your tick very well if a lifter is causing it.

On my truck, I could hear the ticking best in the area of the right side of the #5 cylinder. Sure as sh*t, my #5 intake lifter was toast and ate the cam lobe.

VERY IMPORTANT:

Make double sure you don't have broken exhaust manifold bolts first.

And be careful of moving and hot parts, be safe.

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[Wild one]

I have a 2015 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi with 175,000 miles on it. I’ve had a ticking noise for the last few thousand miles which I assume is the exhaust manifold. The other day it starts bogging down at low idle, not too bad, but noticeable and worse when put into reverse. At any speed though it’s nonexistent. It throws the P305 code on me saying misfire in cylinder 5.

I haven’t changed the spark plugs in God knows when. So I changed them on that cylinder. Doesn’t fix it, so I changed the coil. Doesn’t fix it, so I think maybe it’s the exhaust manifold because of the ticking sound. Doesn’t fix it, or the ticking either. I listen a little better and the ticking is probably coming the passenger side that I haven’t replaced yet. Either way I changed the fuel injectors. Doesn’t fix it!!!!!! Please what would the next logical step be?!? I’m at my wits end.

Pull 1 sparkplug from each cylinder and do a compression test,if cylinder 5 is lower then the rest,good chance you're in need of a cam and lifters

 

[Jdennis1989]

Thank you everybody. I already replaced the exhaust manifold. It did have a broken bolt but after fixing it, it didn’t fix the issue. I have moved my truck to the garage and I am setting up to replace the lifters and/or cam

 

[EdGs]

You can check the rocker movement on that cylinder as has been suggested.

I would try using the stethascope to narrow down the area.

If you get to where you have to pull the intake manifold, remove the VVT solenoid and check for metal on the screen.

If there's a little, you might be good with just cam and lifters. If there's alot, might be better to swap engine.

Be prepared to spend money. Lots of it.
Highly recommend OE parts, esp cam and lifters, etc., and from reputable sources. NO AMAZON OR EBAY PARTS, LOTS OF FAKE STUFF OUT THERE.

I opted to repair, and damn near replaced everything inside the engine, to the tune of close to $6K. I did use mostly factory parts as well.

Get an idea exactly where the tick is first, just in case. You can also post up a video of the tick, it might help others to guide you.

Keep us posted.

 

[jws123]

If it winds up being your camshaft your looking at about $1800-2k in parts do do it the right way. Use to be able to do this job for $1000 lmao part prices and quality went down the crapper.

 

[EdGs]

If it winds up being your camshaft your looking at about $1800-2k in parts do do it the right way. Use to be able to do this job for $1000 lmao part prices and quality went down the crapper.

What parts are you actually replacing that only run $2k? Just OE Lifters, cam, head gaskets and bolts will cost close to that.

I guess I overspent.....lol. I'm sure I replaced some things I might not have had to, my timing set didn't have alot of wear, IMO. I had a chipped valve stem and wear on other stems as well as a couple of rockers so they all got replaced. I did replace the MDS solenoids and the VVT solenoid but I didn't want to go back into the engine if something else decided to fail.

Parts kit?

 

[Wild one]

What parts are you actually replacing that only run $2k? Just OE Lifters, cam, head gaskets and bolts will cost close to that.

I guess I overspent.....lol. I 'm sure I replaced some things I might not have had to, my timing set didn't have alot of wear, IMO. I had a chipped valve stem and wear on other stems as well as a couple of rockers so they all got replaced. I did replace the MDS solenoids and the VVT solenoid but I didn't want to go back into the engine if something else decided to fail.

Parts kit?

You did it the right way Ed,things like timing chains do stretch over time and wear,especially with the milege you had on your engine,and the valves and rockers you replaced ,needed replacing,as they would of probably came back and bit you in the rear down the road.
You did a high quality job,that surpassed what you would of got from most shops.

 

[EdGs]

You did it the right way Ed,things like timing chains do stretch over time and wear,especially with the milege you had on your engine,and the valves and rockers you replaced ,needed replacing,as they would of probably came back and bit you in the rear down the road.
You did a high quality job,that surpassed what you would of got from most shops.

Thank you, Rick.

I owe it to you and every member here that shared their knowledge and put up with my turtle-esque progress and questions. I could not have done it otherwise.

It's only the 2nd engine I've ever torn into myself, and I've only ever seen a couple others, briefly.

 

[Daw14]

Thank you, Rick.

I owe it to you and every member here that shared their knowledge and put up with my turtle-esque progress and questions. I could not have done it otherwise.

It's only the 2nd engine I've ever torn into myself, and I've only ever seen a couple others, briefly.

You might never know how many people your experience and sharing with us will help.
I bet a lot .
Thanks for all the effort in documenting your project.

 

[Jdennis1989]

I took the valve cover off and all the driver side rockers seem to have full range of motion….. should I still look at the lifters?

 

[Ken226]

I took the valve cover off and all the driver side rockers seem to have full range of motion….. should I still look at the lifters?

It's difficult to tell for sure from the top. The lifter roller can be just in the starting phase of ******** the bed, ticking away, and still have full range of motion. When it gets bad enough to tell via the rockers range of motion, it's usuallly been self destructing for quite awhile.


There is a way to check with certainty though. Drain the oil, remove the oil pan and go up into it from below with a bore scope.

An example of such:

47000 miles what's your thoughts 5.7 mds

www.ramforum.com

 

[jws123]

What parts are you actually replacing that only run $2k? Just OE Lifters, cam, head gaskets and bolts will cost close to that.

I guess I overspent.....lol. I'm sure I replaced some things I might not have had to, my timing set didn't have alot of wear, IMO. I had a chipped valve stem and wear on other stems as well as a couple of rockers so they all got replaced. I did replace the MDS solenoids and the VVT solenoid but I didn't want to go back into the engine if something else decided to fail.

Parts kit?

My cam rebuilds consist of Lifters,camshafts complete top end re seal which includes valve stem seals. I even sand the manifolds flat while heads are off I only replace the timing chain if its a high mileage truck like 200k miles even then its only another $150 for a kit. I always re used the VVT sprocket never had a issue keep in mind I go back stock with my rebuilds I dont use cam kits ECT I do however tune out MDS.

 

[EdGs]

My cam rebuilds consist of Lifters,camshafts complete top end re seal which includes valve stem seals. I even sand the manifolds flat while heads are off I only replace the timing chain if its a high mileage truck like 200k miles even then its only another $150 for a kit. I always re used the VVT sprocket never had a issue keep in mind I go back stock with my rebuilds I dont use cam kits ECT I do however tune out MDS.

Ahh, I know the set of non-mds lifters are a fair bit cheaper than mds ones.

I did replace the cam phaser, and the vvt/mds solenoids, too.

I've got a locked pcm, didn't want to add that into my project. I'd probably have bought an unlocked pcm, though.

You work at a dealership, right? I'm sure that helps a bit with price, too. Any little bit helps.

 

[Jdennis1989]

The rocker arm on the bottom slides on #5 and has wiggle room. I don’t have that on the other arms.

 

[jws123]

Ahh, I know the set of non-mds lifters are a fair bit cheaper than mds ones.

I did replace the cam phaser, and the vvt/mds solenoids, too.

I've got a locked pcm, didn't want to add that into my project. I'd probably have bought an unlocked pcm, though.

You work at a dealership, right? I'm sure that helps a bit with price, too. Any little bit helps.

dealership doesnt help i get all of my parts from rockauto its cheaper.

 

[EdGs]

dealership doesnt help i get all of my parts from rockauto its cheaper.

Damn, that sucks.