P305 code is driving me crazy

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EdGs

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Just remember:

Once you set the timing with all the timing marks in the proper places, and under tension, when you rotate the crank, your timing marks on the chain will no longer line up with the marks on the crank and cam gears, for many revolutions.

However, every 2 revolutions of the crank, the mark on the cam gear will be back at 12:00, and the mark on the crank gear will be at ~5:30.
 
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Jdennis1989

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Ok did I screw up? I had the teeth all lined up correctly when I put it on. I go to torque the bolt to 72 ft lbs and the gear moved on me. I swear the chain didn’t slip at all. After finally getting it torqued, I was already off top dead center. So I kept ratcheting it around twice and it was off, so I did it again a few more times and it’s off even more. Is this normal or do I have to take the bolt off and redo this again

IMG_3388.jpeg
 

Ken226

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Ok did I screw up? I had the teeth all lined up correctly when I put it on. I go to torque the bolt to 72 ft lbs and the gear moved on me. I swear the chain didn’t slip at all. After finally getting it torqued, I was already off top dead center. So I kept ratcheting it around twice and it was off, so I did it again a few more times and it’s off even more. Is this normal or do I have to take the bolt off and redo this again

View attachment 577061

Are you talking about the relationship between the timing mark and the marks on the chain?

Because they are irrelevant. Just a guide for when you first install the timing set. The chain marks won't align with the sprocket marks again for about another 72 revolutions.

Well, unless you rotate the engine backwards to the original alignment, but there is no reason to bother with that.


The common multiple of the # of chiain links, # of cam sprocket teeth and # of crank sprocket teeth is around 72,ish, so even though the marks on the sprockets return to the correct position every other revolution, the chain marks won't.
 

Wild one

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Ok did I screw up? I had the teeth all lined up correctly when I put it on. I go to torque the bolt to 72 ft lbs and the gear moved on me. I swear the chain didn’t slip at all. After finally getting it torqued, I was already off top dead center. So I kept ratcheting it around twice and it was off, so I did it again a few more times and it’s off even more. Is this normal or do I have to take the bolt off and redo this again

View attachment 577061
Torque the cam bolt to 90 lb-ft. The cars use the same exact set-up and call for 90 lb-ft and all aftermarket cam manufacture's say to use 90 lb-ft on the cam bolt. After the heads /rocker shafts and pushrods are on,hand rotate it several times,just to make sure nothings binding
 
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Jdennis1989

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Thanks for easing my mind lol. I just put the gasket on the timing cover. This seal I am seeing people drill a screw through and prying out. Is this the way yall did it?
IMG_3391.jpeg
 

Ken226

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Thanks for easing my mind lol. I just put the gasket on the timing cover. This seal I am seeing people drill a screw through and prying out. Is this the way yall did it?
View attachment 577065

I use a seal puller. It's cheap, and I already have it on hand. about 6$ on Amazon.


I've used a wood screw and claw hammer before, a flat tip screwdriver, or just knocked them out from the back side with a screwdriver and mallet in the past. They all work, but a seal puller reduces the risk of damaging something.
 

Wild one

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Thanks for easing my mind lol. I just put the gasket on the timing cover. This seal I am seeing people drill a screw through and prying out. Is this the way yall did it?
View attachment 577065
I agree with @Ken226 a seal puller is cheap,if you don't have one,a skinny punch and knock it out from the back side. Before you put it back on,install the heads /rockers/pushrods then hand rotate it,that way if you're out on the timing,you can find out before you have the timing cover bolted and siliconed in place. And torque that F'ing cam bolt to 90 lb-ft,before you go any farther,if the cam spins and breaks the dowel pin,you're in for a huge bill.The only thing holding the phazor from spinning is friction,it's not that dowel,and 90 lb-ft creates more friction.
 
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Jdennis1989

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Ok so new lifters are in. I did some cleaning of the heads, oil pan area, and the block. Does this look cleaned enough or do I still have work to do? Feels pretty smooth when lightly taking a razor blade or finger nail across, but keep reading that this part is critical so I’m once again overthinking

IMG_3407.jpeg
 
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Jdennis1989

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Also do I need to change this gasket? Seems like it’s hard plastic and I can’t find the name for it
IMG_B204BC2E-84FB-48F4-9756-B6A5E222458F.jpeg
 
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Jdennis1989

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@Jdennis1989, what brand of lifters did you buy?

Your lifter trays do not look like OE ones. Some brands do not have a good rep. Amazon and ebay are polluted with chinesium examples.

I ended up going with the DNJ Engine Valve Lifter Kit LFK161160 from Autozone.

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EdGs

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That price is almost in Anderson Lifter territory. Wow....
Anderson lifters? Good? Bad?

OE were only $100 more from RockAuto, showing $234 for 5038785AD, and $196 for 5038786AD.

The picture for the 5038786AD shows a single lifter, but I ordered that same # and got a set.

Mine were $234 for each of the sets of 4 lifters and yokes, back at the end of June.

A little over $222 each with the 5% coupon code.
 
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