Piston Slap - Oil suggestions

[Wild one]

Whats a 180 thermostat? It’s stock ram 1500. Only mods are magnaflow cat back and S&B induction.

With those engine temps it sounds like the truck has a 180F thermostat,instead of the stock 203F thermostat.Switch your evic over to the SAE settings,and then you'll get the engine temps in farenheight instead of celsius,you should also get your oil pressures in PSI to. You're basically on a US site,so PSI and Farenheight are the more common readings here.Ch!t i'm a Canuck and i don't use Celsius or KPA ,as 50 psi i understand at a glance,along with 185 farenheight,and you're making me go look up your temperature readings,as 92C and 85C don't really mean squat to me,lol
You can go look up 180F and 203F this time around,lol

 

[JHoward]

Just a tease, 5w30 redline can cause worse piston slap, but nothing better at killing hemi tick then this oil. Ram forum members experiences taught me this one.

Absolutely ...

 

[Mockers]

Ah I’m also from the UK so Celsius and Miles is what I would normally work in lol

 

[Mockers]

There is about a 2% chance that is piston slap, I would say you have hemi tick more likely then not. Can you upload a YouTube at start up and then again at warm idle? Take recording device such as a phone from underneath engine. So start recording put the phone under engine and then start it next time it's cold, upload to youtube. Can you do that?

It is a very large difference if you are going to use a lubrication strategy to either fix it or minimize it. Now the oil they used is a decent if not good piston slap oil, it is however a very poor oil to treat hemi tick. I am using % to make this statement, see redline thread in my sig for poll results. I don't want you to spend 90 bucks on oil if somehow it is piston slap, but if you want the best shot at killing hemi tick 5w30 redline and a royal purple filter 20-820 is the best chance at erasing tick, about 80% effective. The cheap version is right now with your oil just being changed, get 15 ounces lubegard biotech and see if there is any difference, just add it to sump. As long as you are at full indicator on dip stick and not past that, 15 ounces will not overfull sump. This is known as poor mans redline, it is very similar science and is about 50% effective. So I would do that now whether it is piston slap or hemi tick, that is the beauty of this product.

@Burla heres the videos

Cold start
https://youtube.com/shorts/Zf7XB3EVVoU

At temp

Hemi at temp

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[Burla]

@Burla heres the videos

Cold start
https://youtube.com/shorts/Zf7XB3EVVoU

At temp

Hemi at temp

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Kinda of interesting, thanks much for good recordings. I'm not a professional, but here is my observations.

First a question, what are the characteristics when you hit the gas pedal when you have that cold slap/knock? If it speeds up and sounds worse, could be sign of main bearing. Post your oil psi when you get a chance, go to evic- vehicle info then oil psi, cold idle and warm idle and at 2k rpm (should be 60ish), 3k rpm (should be 70ish).

Next question would be on warm idle, when did this start? Didn't always sound like that?

I can understand why they said piston slap, as this doesn't fall into garden variety hemi tick imo. However, as you can hear the slap on cold gets worse even when idle gets kicked down and still slapping when warm. That by definition would not be garden variety piston slap, unless there was actual damage on one of the piston skirts and perhaps rings. So I would say this is possible.

4 possibilities from the bench
Damaged piston causing slap
Main Bearing
Sticky Valve
Possible Lifters

Sorry at this point I would say your case is different which is why the dealer said something from left field, something we aren't used to hearing. I hope you have some miles on current oil? I would for sure get a used oil analysis, try and narrow this down. I would get a stethoscope and try and find everywhere it is vibrating. Cut open oil filter when you change oil.

 

[Mockers]

This was the oil info after the drive for the vids.

When I hit the gas at cold start the knock speeds up and seems to go away or a lot less noticeable.

at warm idle I honestly haven't notice it as is so faint standing by the truck. only notice it after the dealer said its still present when warm, which I can hear under the engine.

current oil in the truck was done Thursday and its probably only has 100km on the new oil.

 

[Burla]

Have to have psi plus rpm to see if it is low = bearings. At 2k rpm and 3k rpm.

 

[Mockers]

Here’s different temps at 2k and 3k

Also another vid from under the hood. It sounds louder from here than under the truck.
Hemi idle knock

Hemi idle knock

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[Wild one]

Here’s different temps at 2k and 3k

Also another vid from under the hood. It sounds louder from here than under the truck.
Hemi idle knock

Hemi idle knock

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View attachment 562904View attachment 562905View attachment 562906View attachment 562907

You're past an oil strategy fixing that noise,as that's either wrist pin or rod bearing noise.You can find lots of engines on Calgary and Edmontons Marketplaces,from rebuilts to low mile used ones.

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[Burla]

I'm thinking those psi readings aren't low enough to be bearings that plus the sound louder on top I think we can look elsewhere without more indicators. In my opinion especially with last video, I don't hear anything sounding like piston slap, now piston skirts damage is rare so I have heard that before, so possible still but I say not likely. Again, it could be lifters, they generally sound like that, but since it is a little different then garden variety, I'm not sold on it. I'm leaning towards sticky Valve or broken valve spring. Normally I have a stronger opinion, I don't in this case until I find a piece of info that makes me put all my chips in that basket. Maybe someone could be more helpful. You did a good job at getting those up, good luck with it.

I think I would compression test all cylinders.

 

[Burla]

If Rick is correct that can reconcile all the info you are getting. A wrist pin is not traditional piston slap but for sure can create constant knock. It would have been nice for dealer to use different language as most people associate piston slap with a specific event based on cold shrunk pistons at start up and not actually damage to the piston.

Part of living in snow states you have pistons shrinking every day it is cold, causes a lot of stress in this application. Lifespan is gonna be much less then us spoiled people who never see 20f in winter.

 

[Wild one]

This guy has new take outs,which usually are from shipping or factory damaged trucks,that Ma Mopar has deemed unsellable,so you'd end up with basically a brand new engine.

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[Mockers]

If Rick is correct that can reconcile all the info you are getting. A wrist pin is not traditional piston slap but for sure can create constant knock. It would have been nice for dealer to use different language as most people associate piston slap with a specific event based on cold shrunk pistons at start up and not actually damage to the piston.

Part of living in snow states you have pistons shrinking every day it is cold, causes a lot of stress in this application. Lifespan is gonna be much less then us spoiled people who never see 20f in winter.

I looked back at the text from the dealer, he said it is bottom end so not lifters (potentially bad wrist pin, or piston slap)

I just find it crazy that an engine well looked after, constantly serviced well couldn't even make it past 100k + miles. never had a truck fail this soon in all my time.

I ordered the Lubegard bio/tech so will try that.

the truck is only worth $15k CAD so its becoming diminishing return continuing to pay a garage to diagnose and getting a new motor. :-(

 

[Burla]

So Im not in snow country, perhaps an engine block heater, sump heater, and/or garage may have prevented the early demise? I hear what you are saying, but with aluminum pistons and an iron block, you are going to have this constant metal going in and out of tolerance. I feel like iron pistons might help, but since the world has long left iron pistons out of engines there must be something I missed there. I'm not sure wrist pins even get lubricated, what you say @Wild one ?

 

[Wild one]

I looked back at the text from the dealer, he said it is bottom end so not lifters (potentially bard wrist pin, or piston slap)

I just find it crazy that an engine well looked after, constantly serviced well couldn't even make it past 100k + miles. never had a truck fail this soon in all my time.

I ordered the Lubegard bio/tech so will try that.

the truck is only worth $15k CAD so its becoming diminishing return continuing to pay a garage to diagnose and getting a new motor. :-(

As Burla stated do a compression test,usually if you have a broken valve spring it'll show up on a compression test,just to rule it out.
If the trucks in nice shape,with no rust or electrical issues,it's probably worth sticking a new engine in it.
Line a buddy or 2 up,rent an engine hoist,and you can easily change the engine in a week-end on a driveway or in a home garage.Just use all your original sensors,and then it's a plug-n-play swap.
Things happen that sometimes you have no control over,like a bad wristpin going south.The 2014 6.4's had wristpin issues,and alot of them were replaced under warrenty,but you're well past the warrenty stage,so you'll be on the hook for this cost.

Yes, the wrist pins in a 5.7 Hemi engine are lubricated by pressurized oil, with oil being forced into the pin bore from the oil ring.

• Oil Ring and Pin Bore:
  The 5.7 Hemi engine uses a system where a hole is drilled from the pin bore into the oil ring.
  
  
• Forced Lubrication:
  As the oil ring scrapes oil off the cylinder wall, it forces the oil into the pin bore, actively lubricating the pin.

 

[Wild one]

@Burla

Yes, the wrist pins in a 5.7 Hemi engine are lubricated by pressurized oil, with oil being forced into the pin bore from the oil ring.

• Oil Ring and Pin Bore:
  The 5.7 Hemi engine uses a system where a hole is drilled from the pin bore into the oil ring.
  
  
• Forced Lubrication:
  As the oil ring scrapes oil off the cylinder wall, it forces the oil into the pin bore, actively lubricating the pin.

 

[Mockers]

Yes we have a block heater which I use when its parked outside in cold temps but mostly parked in a garage. doing the engine swap myself is more than I am capable tbh.

Thank you guys for taking the time to review, respond and provide your thoughts on my situation. Really do appreciate it a lot.

 

[Wild one]

Yes we have a block heater which I use when its parked outside in cold temps but mostly parked in a garage. doing the engine swap myself is more than I am capable tbh.

Thank you guys for taking the time to review, respond and provide your thoughts on my situation. Really do appreciate it a lot.

Nows the time to learn,lol.
There's lots of video's on You Tube to help you out.
If you have even the most basic of hand tools,you should be able to swap the engine yourself.
It's not rocket science to swap an engine,it's just a bunch of bolts and a few wiring connectors

 

[06 Dodge]

Yes we have a block heater which I use when its parked outside in cold temps but mostly parked in a garage. doing the engine swap myself is more than I am capable tbh.

Thank you guys for taking the time to review, respond and provide your thoughts on my situation. Really do appreciate it a lot.

You have a block heater so don't get why did you would not put it on a timer to come one a few hours before first engine start up of the day? When I lived in the cold Midwest I always parked my both wife's car an my truck in a garage and I still put both block heaters on a timer during the winter time...

 

[jws123]

Yes we have a block heater which I use when its parked outside in cold temps but mostly parked in a garage. doing the engine swap myself is more than I am capable tbh.

Thank you guys for taking the time to review, respond and provide your thoughts on my situation. Really do appreciate it a lot.

I just listened to all of your videos. you 100% are about to lose a roller on a lifter have rebuilt many of these hemis now im 98% sure thats the sound only other thing it could be is piston slap but its very un common either way i wouldnt drive it much unless your content with a engine swap instead of a rebuild when it blows.