Racing Plugs

[Mister Luck]

A performance engine builder friend showed me a spark plug code diagram for finding or building custom spark plugs

NGK has some charts online and I found some multi electrode plugs that are not rare metals tipped.

LFRD 6490

 

[BOWERSFJ]

Be careful, I’ve read that Hemi’s are funny birds when it comes to feeding them anything other than what they came with as far as plugs


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[Mister Luck]

The befits of multi electrode plugs are gap retention, added proportional ratio indexing and redundancy in the event of increased detonation pressures
other than those positive aspects they are the same plug as factory specifications

 

[Tim Garceau]

Make sure you follow up, what mileage before PM on those?

Might run 50 shot of nitrous through them for S&Gs.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

The befits of multi electrode plugs are gap retention, added proportional ratio indexing and redundancy in the event of increased detonation pressures
other than those positive aspects they are the same plug as factory specifications

8 electrodes per cylinder

You'll basically never need to change plugs again if those are installed .

The only way this gains performance is if the vehicles current spark plugs are failing though.

 

[AE5548]

Be careful, I’ve read that Hemi’s are funny birds when it comes to feeding them anything other than what they came with as far as

I’ve heard the same. It’s why I never went to platinum plugs when I had my 11’. I remember when I did all four 02 sensors and used Bosch sensors. Check engine light instantly showing all 4 were bad despite them looking identical and showing up in a cross reference. Went to the factory NTK ones and all was well.

These NGK plugs seem like they might serve a purpose on a heavily modded engine (cam, N2O, etc) but on an otherwise stock truck they seem like a waste. If they cost the same as stock that’s one thing. But I can’t imagine they would make a noticeable difference.

EDIT: I just googled these. They are off the shelf plugs. Amazon even has them. Not sure where the “racing” part comes from. Either way, let us know how they work. No way I’m being the guinea pig for new plugs! Way too much of a PITA to change them

 

[Mister Luck]

Make sure you follow up, what mileage before PM on those?

Might run 50 shot of nitrous through them for S&Gs.

Once I get the itch to rebuild
I’ll start plumbing for NOZ

 

[Mister Luck]

I’ve heard the same. It’s why I never went to platinum plugs when I had my 11’. I remember when I did all four 02 sensors and used Bosch sensors. Check engine light instantly showing all 4 were bad despite them looking identical and showing up in a cross reference. Went to the factory NTK ones and all was well.

These NGK plugs seem like they might serve a purpose on a heavily modded engine (cam, N2O, etc) but on an otherwise stock truck they seem like a waste. If they cost the same as stock that’s one thing. But I can’t imagine they would make a noticeable difference.

EDIT: I just googled these. They are off the shelf plugs. Amazon even has them. Not sure where the “racing” part comes from. Either way, let us know how they work. No way I’m being the guinea pig for new plugs! Way too much of a PITA to change them

I didn’t realize Amazon had these I’ll look them up

Redundancy is part of the Racing motto

 

[Mister Luck]

These NGK 6490’s are colder plugs than stock and will not benefit everyday driving unless you have a tendency to put your foot into it
Because they are a cooler rated plug they may be more susceptible to carbon fouling when used for moderate driving practices

Specifications for both NGK 6490 and NGK 92174 from Sparkplugs.com

NGK LFR6D 6490
multi ground electrode spark plug

• Thread Size: 14mm
• Thread Pitch: 1.25mm
• Seat Type: Gasket
• Resistor Value: 5K Ohm
• Reach: 26.5mm (1.04")
• Hex Size: 5/8" (16mm)
• Terminal Type: Solid
• Overall Height: ISO
• Gap: .024" (0.6mm)

Center Electrode

• Material: Nickel
• Type: Standard
• Size: 2.5mm
• Projection: Projected

Ground Electrode

• Material: Nickel
• Type: Multi-Ground
• Quantity: 3

Specifications

• Warranty: 1 Year
• Torque Specs: Cast Iron: 18-25.3 lb. ft. Aluminum: 18-21.6 lb. ft.
• Brand: NGK
• Heat Range: 6

NGK 92174 LZFR5C-11
single ground electrode spark plug

• Thread Size: 14mm
• Thread Pitch: 1.25mm
• Seat Type: Gasket
• Resistor Value: 5K Ohm
• Reach: 26.5mm (1.04")
• Hex Size: 5/8" (16mm)
• Terminal Type: Solid
• Overall Height: Bantam
• Gap: .043" (1.1mm)

Center Electrode

• Material: Nickel
• Type: Standard
• Size: 2.5mm
• Projection: Extended Projection

Ground Electrode

• Material: Nickel
• Type: Standard
• Quantity: 1

Specifications

• Warranty: 1 Year
• Torque Specs: Cast Iron: 18-25.3 lb. ft. Aluminum: 18-21.6 lb. ft.
• Brand: NGK
• Heat Range: 5

 

[Tim Garceau]

So nickel electrode, Check gaps(narrow feeler gage) at 30k and replace by 60k miles... Little colder will lose a bit of N/A power. Power adder engines will benefit from the lower igniting temps.

 

[Mister Luck]

So nickel electrode, Check gaps(narrow feeler gage) at 30k and replace by 60k miles... Little colder will lose a bit of N/A power. Power adder engines will benefit from the lower igniting temps.

2009 revisions on 5.7‘s redesigned the piston head compression ratio to 10.5:1
up from previous 9.6:1

A cooler plug attracts and removes some of the excess heat transfer from the 09’ revised 65cc oval chambers

Multi ground electrode plugs do not require gap adjustment since they do not reach over the top of the center electrode

The problem most people find is fouling from carbon deposits if the engine is not driven over 50 miles per trip and or uses a colder radiator coolant thermostat

I’m generally in the category of blowing off the carbon when I drive on winding stretches of road, my engine has VVT and an electronic pedal accessory that I usually set for modest performance
I climb hills, use passing lanes and chase down but more likely usually get out of the way of the turbo diesel logging trucks