Ram 1500 transmission

[MoreCowbell]

After spending a long while looking under the hood for the transmission fluid dipstick, imagine my surprise when I learned that the Ram 1500 has a “sealed” transmission and no dipstick !! I believe this change from the earlier configuration came with the 2011 model. I have learned that the fluid may only be checked/added via a side plug in the transmission housing. (This is just like the Volkswagen Type 1 transaxle, btw.)

Does anyone know from experience, etc. how long the "sealed" transmission can be run under "normal" conditions without checking the fluid ?? How about long-term viability of the transmission itself? Life expectancy (in miles) ??

 

[MoreCowbell]

Well, didn't see any responses but I may have answered my own question. Not within the 360-page User Guide but rather on one of pages in the Owner's Information DVD I read this:
Fluid and Filter Changes — Eight-Speed Transmission

Under normal operating conditions, the fluid installed at the factory will provide satisfactory lubrication for the life of the vehicle.

Routine fluid and filter changes are not required. However, change the fluid and filter if the fluid becomes contaminated (with water, etc.), or if the transmission is disassembled for any reason.
I'm not really sure I believe this but this is what it said.

 

[PoMansRam]

If you poke around, you'll see ZF recommends a pan and fluid change around 60k miles if you want increaaed life and reliability of the unit. FCA dealers will typically tell you it's sealed and don't touch it.

There's tons of threads here on how to do a pan and fluid change yourself.

You can do one as inexpensively as $50 or you can spend a few hundred on OEM pans and fluids.

 

[tap4154]

Many threads on this debating whether to leave it alone or change the fluid. I'm leaning toward leaving it alone, especially in light of the fact that I don't tow or off road with my truck. My old Ford became contaminated when the transmission dipstick became loose and I didn't realize it. Cost me a new transmission. Not having the dipstick, only a vent, there's much less chance of the fluid becoming contaminated, and the fluid these days is much much better.

 

[CVX20]

After spending a long while looking under the hood for the transmission fluid dipstick, imagine my surprise when I learned that the Ram 1500 has a “sealed” transmission and no dipstick !! I believe this change from the earlier configuration came with the 2011 model. I have learned that the fluid may only be checked/added via a side plug in the transmission housing. (This is just like the Volkswagen Type 1 transaxle, btw.)

Does anyone know from experience, etc. how long the "sealed" transmission can be run under "normal" conditions without checking the fluid ?? How about long-term viability of the transmission itself? Life expectancy (in miles) ??

If it's not leaking why would you need to check the level?

 

[crazykid1994]

@Wild one

 

[kurek]

Even though it's not the same transmission, a few months ago I changed the transmission oil in my "sealed" Jeep automatic trans and I'm glad I did.

Here's a little video I made just showing what the fluid looked like.

 

[Wild one]

Well, didn't see any responses but I may have answered my own question. Not within the 360-page User Guide but rather on one of pages in the Owner's Information DVD I read this:
Fluid and Filter Changes — Eight-Speed Transmission

Under normal operating conditions, the fluid installed at the factory will provide satisfactory lubrication for the life of the vehicle.

Routine fluid and filter changes are not required. However, change the fluid and filter if the fluid becomes contaminated (with water, etc.), or if the transmission is disassembled for any reason.
I'm not really sure I believe this but this is what it said.

ZF reconmends a fluid/filter service between 80,000 and 130,000 "Kilometers" not miles,or every 8 years.The 8 speed has a very good reputation,one of the reasons it's used in everything from Rolls Royces right down to our 1500's. It's not uncommon for the 8 speed to live upwards of 300,000 miles if serviced regulary,i think one guy got close to 600,000 miles out his 8 speed,alibit he has the 8HP70 behind his tuned Eco-Diesal,while you have the lighter duty 8HP45 behind your little 3.6. Here's the procedure for checking the fluid level in the 8HP70's,which i think should also apply to your lighter duty 8HP45. Pay attention to the very first high lighted paragraph,you need to jack the rear tires in the air a fair bit to get the transmissions pan rail level.The instructions seem a bit intimidating on paper,but in reality are very easy to do,as it just a matter of going through the gears,and letting the truck shift into 2nd gear.Make sure you block both sides of the front tires when you go through the gears so it won't vibrate itself off your jackstands or whatever you're using to raise the rear tires off the ground.
There's lots of video's out there showing how to do the service,most of them miss the fact you need the rear tires in the air to do a proper service

 

[PoMansRam]

If it's not leaking why would you need to check the level?

Ideally you shouldn't need to check it. If the level kept her going until the first pan drop and fluid change, what ever amount that was in there was good.

I think when people do drain them, they want that reassurance that the amount they're putting back in is to factory specs. In reality, if you add in the same amount you drained out, like said above, it's going to be fine.

What's tricky about these combination level check & refill ports is, if you pull that plug with the engine off, fluid is going to gush out of it. You have to have the engine idling to get the last few quarts in and like Wild one's pic, to do a proper OEM level verification, you have to follow that procedure.

 

[GTyankee]

Something to think about:

The dealership will charge you about $360 for the transmission pan & filter, plus transmission fluid, tax & labor. When it is time to change fluid.
Mopar's Pan has to be changed at every fluid change, it does not have a drain plug.

There are other companies that make a reusable pan that comes with a drain plug, which is of course a better choice.

Always check online for the best price whether you are buying the Mopar pan or one from a alternative company.
You can take your purchased products to most dealerships & they will install it for you, if you can't do the service yourself.
I take my own store bought products, like motor oil & filters to my dealership just about all the time

Here is a video that i found about the ZF-8 servicing


If i were to do the transmission service myself, i think that i would wrap the exhaust with aluminum foil & find a clean container that i could put a pump onto properly, i know myself enough to know that i would knock over the container if i did it the way he did. I would also have some kind of low profile pan to catch dripping fluid

 

[Wild one]

Something to think about:

The dealership will charge you about $360 for the transmission pan & filter, plus transmission fluid, tax & labor. When it is time to change fluid.
Mopar's Pan has to be changed at every fluid change, it does not have a drain plug.

There are other companies that make a reusable pan that comes with a drain plug, which is of course a better choice.

Always check online for the best price whether you are buying the Mopar pan or one from a alternative company.
You can take your purchased products to most dealerships & they will install it for you, if you can't do the service yourself.
I take my own store bought products, like motor oil & filters to my dealership just about all the time

Here is a video that i found about the ZF-8 servicing


If i were to do the transmission service myself, i think that i would wrap the exhaust with aluminum foil & find a clean container that i could put a pump onto properly, i know myself enough to know that i would knock over the container if i did it the way he did. I would also have some kind of low profile pan to catch dripping fluid

Johns video leaves alot to be desired as he doesn't level the transmissions pan rail or go through the gears properly. It's better to wrap the exhaust pipe with a wet rag,it keeps the burns down slightly. The instructions i posted above,are the instructions that come with a "brand new" (not a rebuilt) 8 speed transmission from the dealer,cost me a good chunk of change to get them,lol

 

[MoreCowbell]

Thanks for all responses !! A fascinating thread ...

As to CVX20 ("If it's not leaking why would you need to check the level?") ...
sometimes inquiring minds just wanna know.

GTyankee's video link didn't post.

 

[CVX20]

Ideally you shouldn't need to check it. If the level kept her going until the first pan drop and fluid change, what ever amount that was in there was good.

I think when people do drain them, they want that reassurance that the amount they're putting back in is to factory specs. In reality, if you add in the same amount you drained out, like said above, it's going to be fine.

What's tricky about these combination level check & refill ports is, if you pull that plug with the engine off, fluid is going to gush out of it. You have to have the engine idling to get the last few quarts in and like Wild one's pic, to do a proper OEM level verification, you have to follow that procedure.

I get the level checking procedure.That's something that even GM had back in the 90's.Just wondering why you'd bother with the level if it's not leaking and working fine?I guess after wrenching for a living for 35 + years I'd just as soon leave well enough alone.Back when I had old muscle cars my head was under the hood when I wasn't driving it but I'm well over that 50 years later.

 

[MoreCowbell]

In thinking more about some of this, especially Wild one's post, it puzzles me why you can't just drain the fluid, re-install the pan w/ new gasket, and add new fluid. I can kind of understand how raising the rear of the vehicle would aid in getting the fluid level right. The gear change part of the procedure (reverse, drive, 2000rpm for 5s, etc.) is a bit confounding.
For comparison, in the Dakota, I used to simply warm the engine, drop the pan (very messy), clean it & the filter, re-install it with a new gasket, and add new fluid. (BTW, on the first change, I bored a hole in the pan and welded a threaded boss to the bottom of the pan - added a drain plug - so the fluid could be easily change next time.)

 

[EdGs]

Something to think about:

The dealership will charge you about $360 for the transmission pan & filter, plus transmission fluid, tax & labor. When it is time to change fluid.
Mopar's Pan has to be changed at every fluid change, it does not have a drain plug.

There are other companies that make a reusable pan that comes with a drain plug, which is of course a better choice.

Always check online for the best price whether you are buying the Mopar pan or one from a alternative company.
You can take your purchased products to most dealerships & they will install it for you, if you can't do the service yourself.
I take my own store bought products, like motor oil & filters to my dealership just about all the time

Here is a video that i found about the ZF-8 servicing


If i were to do the transmission service myself, i think that i would wrap the exhaust with aluminum foil & find a clean container that i could put a pump onto properly, i know myself enough to know that i would knock over the container if i did it the way he did. I would also have some kind of low profile pan to catch dripping fluid

I had a stubby 10mm hex key and loosened the drain plug right above the exhaust pipe, and used a regular drain pan to catch the fluid.

I did have oil dri sheets underneath for when I removed the old pan, but if you let it drip from the drain port, you will get most of it. Don't be in a hurry.

After the new pan was installed, I cleaned the oil from the exhaust with a rag and brakleen. I used a piece if nomex felt over the pipe for the heat.

Dont know if I would use foil, maybe melt?

Good luck with your repairs.

 

[EdGs]

As far as putting in what came out, that would assume that the proper amount was there to begin with.

When I did my 8 speed service on Jan 1, I drained out ~ 4.5 qts., but my trans took ~ 5-1/4 on the fill (with OE pan/filter).

So the only way I might even consider the same amount out/in method would be if I had already done a service. Even then, the drain and fill procedure is a bit of a pain, but not enough for me to risk $4K on a new transmission.

 

[joesstripclub]

In thinking more about some of this, especially Wild one's post, it puzzles me why you can't just drain the fluid, re-install the pan w/ new gasket, and add new fluid. I can kind of understand how raising the rear of the vehicle would aid in getting the fluid level right. The gear change part of the procedure (reverse, drive, 2000rpm for 5s, etc.) is a bit confounding.
For comparison, in the Dakota, I used to simply warm the engine, drop the pan (very messy), clean it & the filter, re-install it with a new gasket, and add new fluid. (BTW, on the first change, I bored a hole in the pan and welded a threaded boss to the bottom of the pan - added a drain plug - so the fluid could be easily change next time.)

I'm guessing by how shallow the pans are on these transmissions that the cold engine off level is above the fill hole. With the engine running, the converter, cooler, and valve body will all be full of fluid, leaving the level exactly at the fill hole as described.

 

[pacofortacos]

And then there are those of us with the MOPAR lifetime service contract.
I am torn, I tow and know for maximum life, the fluid and filter should be changed.
Yet when I called the contract people, they said to follow the owners manual - which states lifetime and mine has no severe duty schedule to say different.

So even if I have the dealer change it, and then it fails later, will they try to get out of the repair by saying it shouldn't have been touched???

 

[crazykid1994]

And then there are those of us with the MOPAR lifetime service contract.
I am torn, I tow and know for maximum life, the fluid and filter should be changed.
Yet when I called the contract people, they said to follow the owners manual - which states lifetime and mine has no severe duty schedule to say different.

So even if I have the dealer change it, and then it fails later, will they try to get out of the repair by saying it shouldn't have been touched???

I don’t trust other people to work on my vehicle. Took a car in and they had to remove the dash to fix some stuff now my radio has weird glitches sometimes and they broke one of the ac vents. Told us it’s our problem. Took it to the manager and he said they would fix it then never got back to us. We’ve tried contacting them and they always say they’re to busy.

 

[pacofortacos]

I hear ya, but I will suffer to a degree when it is as expensive as a transmission LOL

Fortunately, my dealer isn't too bad and I know several of them. They also know that I was a Chrysler tech several years ago.

So I am hoping for the best