Rebuilding a 318

[2001Ram1500SL]

I have a 318 I am rebuilding not from my truck but going into it and i was wondering I already took the whole motor apart I have everything out I was wondering what problems do magnums usually have and what needs to go to the machine shop what do you guys have done for a stock rebuild with a mild cam??

 

[dudeman2009]

Plenum fix and check the heads between the valve seats, they like to crack there. Otherwise just a cam won't change much at all. You'd likely notice a bigger difference putting shorty headers on it with a 2.5-3in single exhaust all the way back.

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[2001Ram1500SL]

Plenum fix and check the heads between the valve seats, they like to crack there. Otherwise just a cam won't change much at all. You'd likely notice a bigger difference putting shorty headers on it with a 2.5-3in single exhaust all the way back.

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do they usually need to be bored or cranks need to be turned or the worst problems are the heads cracking??

 

[dudeman2009]

do they usually need to be bored or cranks need to be turned or the worst problems are the heads cracking??

The cranks are pretty solid, unless you spin or cook a bearing, nothing really goes wrong with them. The cylinders are also usually pretty tough unless it got cooked, usually you don't have to touch them other than a quick hone and some new rings just because it will never be easier.

It's pretty easy to mess up the finish on heads, so I wouldn't suggest any repairs yourself, i'd send it out to a machine shop, usually it won't cost much if they are just fixing some issues. Sometimes the cracks are in non-repairable areas, in that case, you might as well buy some new heads.

 

[2001Ram1500SL]

The cranks are pretty solid, unless you spin or cook a bearing, nothing really goes wrong with them. The cylinders are also usually pretty tough unless it got cooked, usually you don't have to touch them other than a quick hone and some new rings just because it will never be easier.

It's pretty easy to mess up the finish on heads, so I wouldn't suggest any repairs yourself, i'd send it out to a machine shop, usually it won't cost much if they are just fixing some issues. Sometimes the cracks are in non-repairable areas, in that case, you might as well buy some new heads.

thanks also they just need heads and plenum fix usually?

 

[Yeret]

You used to be able to get a set of assembled cylinder heads with thicker castings between the valve seats delivered for $600. Not sure how much they go for now. I ordered a set from L&C Enterprises on eBay. Been running them for two years now with no problems. Odessa also gets pretty good reviews overall.

If you're keeping the kegger, and going with factory-spec heads, don't bother with a cam. Any aftermarket cam is going to require aftermarket springs, which cost money, and the kegger will choke off most of the cam's potential anyway. If you want some more breathing potential, consider swapping the kegger with a Hughes Airgap. Gonna run ya $600 though and you'll need a tune to make it work good.

If you want some more oomph on the cheap, hit up Flyin' Ryan for an SCT tune. The tune will eliminate the death flash and torque management, both of which squeeze the engine's balls under any kind of real throttle input. You'll have to run 91 octane, though, which worked fine for me anyway since regular 87 that doesn't have ethanol in it is becoming increasingly harder to find around here.

 

[dapepper9]

Most do a .030 overbore just as a standard though they more often than not need either nothing but a hone or a 0.010 over bore

Previous posts i agree with aside from Odessa. They sell both factory reman and thicker cast EngineQuest aftermarket units that flow more and don't crack. Can be difficult to differentiate between which one you're buying and they pretty much sell everything through eBay. I usually refer people to hipotek for aftermarket heads if you're going that route as they do top notch machine work