RMI (25) Slime

[NETim]

I put a bottle of this magic elixer (RMI 25) in the radiator yesterday and took the truck for a short drive (25 miles). I pulled the radiator cap off this AM and noticed a small amount of slimey goo on the cap gasket. Also a bit on the overflow tank dipstick.

Also, it feels like I'm getting a tad bit warmer air out of the heater. Might be my imagination. Who knows?

So, I think something good is happening.

 

[HuskerRam]

I know @Burla has mentioned this product before. It's supposed to take all the nasties and deposit it in your overflow bottle for easy disposal. I'm sure I'm oversimplifying it, but that's the gist of it, I believe.

 

[NETim]

I know @Burla has mentioned this product before. It's supposed to take all the nasties and deposit it in your overflow bottle for easy disposal. I'm sure I'm oversimplifying it, but that's the gist of it, I believe.

I've seen it discussed often here. Seems to be held in high regard. I have not been experiencing any issues with the cooling system but given the truck's age, I thought, "Why not?"

 

[Burla]

Guys this stuff is one of those rare products, and of course I didnt invent it, just someone who found that information before some of the guys around here. I ran it in a truck that had dex mixed with iat, and found straight up slime in the overflow and thought something was wrong til I looked it up and that is exactly what is supposed to happen. I would suggest a drain and fill flush after 500 miles, see how bad it is and if any of it is still in system.

Thanks for the reporting netim, keep us updated.

 

[Wild one]

I was like you NETim when i decided to give it a whirl in our 300C. After a 500 mile continous drive,the crap i found in the overflow bottle surprised the hell out of me,especially the amount of casting sand i found in the overflow.After finally getting the overflow clean, i threw the rest of the bottle in,and will run it till next spring,which is when i'll pull the heater hoses etc,and flush the cooling system,and give it new anti-freeze

 

[Wild one]

I forgot to mention the rad cap was spotless after the 500 mile drive,and the car does appear to run a bit cooler.Normally with the stock 203 t-stat it would always run right around 202 to 204F at highway speeds,on the last half of the 500 mile drive,it was running about 198/200F. I have no explanation on why it dropped a couple degrees in temp,but i know it doesn't bother me,lol
Burla talked me into trying RMI out,and i'm glad he did,although it did cost me money,just razzing ya Mike,lol.
Thank-you for the heads up on this stuff

 

[kdoublep]

Interesting thread. Never heard of this stuff. I read you don't even have to flush the system according to instructions. Is this your experience?

I'd like to use it. I'm at 65K. Don't want to flush if I don't have to.

 

[Wild one]

Interesting thread. Never heard of this stuff. I read you don't even have to flush the system according to instructions. Is this your experience?

I'd like to use it. I'm at 65K. Don't want to flush if I don't have to.

I just dumped it in,with the idea of running it this winter,then flushing the system next spring,and installing new anti-freeze.Cars 10 years old now,and just turned over 70,000 miles,so it's due for new anti-freeze anyways

 

[Burla]

Interesting thread. Never heard of this stuff. I read you don't even have to flush the system according to instructions. Is this your experience?

I'd like to use it. I'm at 65K. Don't want to flush if I don't have to.

My 2 penny's for what it's worth, check the condition of the coolant by color, it is looks close to oem, just do drain and flush. Once you lose the oem color, it's like all hands on deck, and rmi 25 is the stuff I'd use hands down. Then, you need to decide on a coolant moving forward, oem or universal coolant like peak global life. The issue with(to me) the 5.7 it takes somewhere better then me to achieve a coolant flush, it is much more complicated (to me) then something easily done. I dont even know how any machine unless it could pre heat coolant to 204f could even flush a hemi without asting tons of coolant. Plus how would it even work unless the machine was putting the coolant pressurized at the cap, dunno. So what can you do? Start drain and fills in such a way you dont need to burp the system for the most part on a much lesser interval then what oem says.

 

[danielmid]

My 2 penny's for what it's worth, check the condition of the coolant by color, it is looks close to oem, just do drain and flush. Once you lose the oem color, it's like all hands on deck, and rmi 25 is the stuff I'd use hands down. Then, you need to decide on a coolant moving forward, oem or universal coolant like peak global life. The issue with(to me) the 5.7 it takes somewhere better then me to achieve a coolant flush, it is much more complicated (to me) then something easily done. I dont even know how any machine unless it could pre heat coolant to 204f could even flush a hemi without asting tons of coolant. Plus how would it even work unless the machine was putting the coolant pressurized at the cap, dunno. So what can you do? Start drain and fills in such a way you dont need to burp the system for the most part on a much lesser interval then what oem says.

Isn't that what the vacuum purge/fill tools are for?

Like this:

Cooling System Test and Refill Kit

Amazing deals on this Cooling System Test & Refill at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Burla]

Isn't that what the vacuum purge/fill tools are for?

Like this:

Cooling System Test and Refill Kit

Amazing deals on this Cooling System Test & Refill at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

So how do you keep thermostat open and heater core valve open? We just had someone pay a dealer for a coolant flush because the top of his radiator was junk, how did that go? I'll give you a hint, big waste of $$$$. I would love to learn different if there is a better way, just saying I dont know one and apparently some dealers dont either.