Rustproofing and Undercoating

[regal81455]

So I'm taking everyone's advise MOSTLY



I spoke to a buddy of mine whom runs a body shop and on his suggestion I'm going to use 3M Cavity Wax on all the pocketed areas. The rest of the chassis will get fluid filmed.

Cavity wax bought and picked up locally already. I'm going to order a fluid film kit off amazon tomorrow.

Tx again everyone for your input!

 

[js12278]

For the chassis consider Woolwax black. Woolwax is thicker than Fluid Film when it sets up. It will also resist road spray better. The black looks clean as well. I use both products, affect and Ww, in both black and straw color. Also in gallons and aerosol cans.
You’ve made a good decision

 

[regal81455]

I actually did just that since I couldn't find a kit with fluid film and a good gun. Ended up with a gallon of black woolwax read that the supplier suggested it too so I was sold!

 

[DodgeDude99]

So I'm taking everyone's advise MOSTLY



I spoke to a buddy of mine whom runs a body shop and on his suggestion I'm going to use 3M Cavity Wax on all the pocketed areas. The rest of the chassis will get fluid filmed.

Cavity wax bought and picked up locally already. I'm going to order a fluid film kit off amazon tomorrow.

Tx again everyone for your input!

I am restoring a ‘70 Camaro, all the inaccessiable areas of the body got a heavy dose of cavity wax.

 

[Trail Ryder]

Krown service cost the same as a DIY Fluid Film kit and they spray it for you. Don't park it in a nice driveway for a few weeks though. It drips like crazy. Great coupons on the annual reapplication too. If you start it within the first year of new vehicle ownership and continue annually, they guarantee against rust.

After my first application of Krown rust proofing, it dripped it's environmentally safe and biodegradable oil for about a week. Fortunately, I was able to park in the street that week. On the second and later annual applications, it hardly dripped at all.

My recommendation is to have at least your first application applied on a Friday and leave your vehicle in the applicators parking lot until Sunday night. For the first week, if you can only park on a sealed asphalt or concrete driveway, then put some cardboard underneath. Again, it hardly dripped at all after subsequent applications.

After 4 salty Western New York winters, the chassis looks great.

https://www.krown.com/en/

I too have seen how rubberized undercoat can separate and trap salty brine and do far more damage than not doing anything at all.

 

[regal81455]

I am restoring a ‘70 Camaro, all the inaccessiable areas of the body got a heavy dose of cavity wax.

Split bumper?

 

[regal81455]

I'll be doing the application myself so it will sit curbside for the 1st couple of days afterwards.

 

[PoMansRam]

After my first application of Krown rust proofing, it dripped it's environmentally safe and biodegradable oil for about a week. Fortunately, I was able to park in the street that week. On the second and later annual applications, it hardly dripped at all.

My recommendation is to have at least your first application applied on a Friday and leave your vehicle in the applicators parking lot until Sunday night. For the first week, if you can only park on a sealed asphalt or concrete driveway, then put some cardboard underneath. Again, it hardly dripped at all after subsequent applications.

After 4 salty Western New York winters, the chassis looks great.

https://www.krown.com/en/

I too have seen how rubberized undercoat can separate and trap salty brine and do far more damage than not doing anything at all.

I tried krown once on my 2017 Ram from the outfit that does it in Hamburg NY and had about the same results as you. To me, the application was so skimpy, I didn't notice any drips beyond 2-3 days after the application. I think once you get some dirt and debris trapped into the coating, subsequent coatings stick better given it's got something to hang on to. What really soured me was about a week later I noticed one of the bolts that holds the taillights on was missing. I can't with 100% certainty pin that on Krown, other than I know they tend to pull the taillights on light trucks to get into the bed sides. That stupid screw cost me like $10-12 for a bag of two of them by mail order. My OCD wanted them to match, because they are an oddball screw with an oddball washer.

From that point on, it's been DIY fluid film or woolwax or a combo of the two for me.

 

[Hemi395]

IMO no one cares about your vehicle more than you do. If you spray your truck with FF/Woolwax/NHOU/etc, most likely you're more invested in getting a good coat on your truck than the guys at Krown or anywhere that applies oil based undercoatings.

 

[regal81455]

IMO no one cares about your vehicle more than you do. If you spray your truck with FF/Woolwax/NHOU/etc, most likely you're more invested in getting a good coat on your truck than the guys at Krown or anywhere that applies oil based undercoatings.

Agreed wholeheartedly - that's why I don't let anyone do anything to it that I can do myself.

 

[SitKneelBend]

After my first application of Krown rust proofing, it dripped it's environmentally safe and biodegradable oil for about a week. Fortunately, I was able to park in the street that week. On the second and later annual applications, it hardly dripped at all.

My recommendation is to have at least your first application applied on a Friday and leave your vehicle in the applicators parking lot until Sunday night. For the first week, if you can only park on a sealed asphalt or concrete driveway, then put some cardboard underneath. Again, it hardly dripped at all after subsequent applications.

After 4 salty Western New York winters, the chassis looks great.

https://www.krown.com/en/

I too have seen how rubberized undercoat can separate and trap salty brine and do far more damage than not doing anything at all.

I get this coupon from them annually, it's a pretty good deal. The place that does mine is also a snow plow/road salting business so they generate their own business!

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[BWL]

I'm pretty vigilant about cleaning the undercarriage. No way I'd do the rubberized stuff, but considering the annual krown or equivalent. However with all the mud and crap that builds up under my truck that I thoroughly clean up a couple times a month I'm thinking I might just end up washing it all off making it a waste of money in my case

 

[Hemi395]

I'm pretty vigilant about cleaning the undercarriage. No way I'd do the rubberized stuff, but considering the annual krown or equivalent. However with all the mud and crap that builds up under my truck that I thoroughly clean up a couple times a month I'm thinking I might just end up washing it all off making it a waste of money in my case

You may wash some of the exposed product off but not what is inside things like the rocker panels or inside the doors...

 

[SitKneelBend]

I'm pretty vigilant about cleaning the undercarriage. No way I'd do the rubberized stuff, but considering the annual krown or equivalent. However with all the mud and crap that builds up under my truck that I thoroughly clean up a couple times a month I'm thinking I might just end up washing it all off making it a waste of money in my case

You may wash some of the exposed product off but not what is inside things like the rocker panels or inside the doors...

This, they spray inside the body panels too...

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[regal81455]

So I just completed woolwaxing the undercarriage and 3m cavity waxing the rockers ( inner and outers ). I ran out of material before I could do the tailgate. I'm picking up some fluid film for it shortly. How do you go about doing the doors though without making a mess of everything ( ie back of inner door panel, speakers, etc...). Are you taking door apart and just spraying at the base of the door?

Tx in advance-

 

[Hemi395]

So I just completed woolwaxing the undercarriage and 3m cavity waxing the rockers ( inner and outers ). I ran out of material before I could do the tailgate. I'm picking up some fluid film for it shortly. How do you go about doing the doors though without making a mess of everything ( ie back of inner door panel, speakers, etc...). Are you taking door apart and just spraying at the base of the door?

Tx in advance-

I only do the very bottom of the doors and corners of the doors annually since that's where they like to rust. I have never gotten the back of the speakers or anything else just doing that. Just be prepared for it to drip for a day or two out of the drain holes.

When you get a chance, pull the inner door panel off and get the rest of the inside of the doors thru the access panel in the door carrier plate. That way you won't coat the back of the speakers.

 

[regal81455]

Thank u for the explanation- that clears it up for me.

 

[LeesEvoX]

So noob question here.

Is this the would y'all ate using? And, Would I benefit from using this as a mostly cosmetic thing?

I live in Houston. No salt on the roads. However, changing the oil in my brand new truck last weekend I see there is a lot of surface rust on bolts. And even things like the axle.

So would this be over kill? And if not. Would it stop the buildup of surface rust so I dont see orange everytime I climb under her?

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[regal81455]

That would work but fluid film & woolwax appear to be the best reviewed.

You can get fluid film from your local autozone and yes it would work great for your situation.

 

[LeesEvoX]

That would work but fluid film & woolwax appear to be the best reviewed.

You can get fluid film from your local autozone and yes it would work great for your situation.

Ok cool. Might give this stuff a shot to see if it helps. Anything I should avoid? I see it mentions non oil resistant rubber. So avoid ball joints and stuff?

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