So pros and cons of the Cummins?

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DodgeDude99

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I have a ‘14 2500 diesel, it’s missing some parts so emissions breaking down isn’t an issue. My daily commute is 6 miles round trip. My only con is lack of heat in my commute.

Sincemy wife passed away in January, I’ve been driving her ‘18 Grand Cherokee to work & errands. It heats up quickly and is easier to maneuver in traffic and parking lots. It’s a lease so it will have to go back in November, but I may get another.
 

FatCatOnSmack

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I went from a 2014 ram 1500 to a 2020 Ram 2500 Big horn sport with the cummins. We have a 2015 Ram 2500 gasser for work that gets 9MPG with an empty 14' dump trailer behind it all the time. My diesel gets about 16mpg avg pulling nothing really right now because the weather sucks.

On these forums I hear many many people push the 6.4 gassers, but when I walked into the dealer I expressly denied the gasser for the diesel. I got the deisel upgrade free with a rebate. I spend way less on fuel, as I always gave my 1500 baby 89 which averaged 1.20/litre here in Canada. My diesel is always around 1.00 for good Synergy diesel.

I end up paying about the same price fueling up as I did with my 1500, even though the 2500 has a bigger fuel tank. My 1500 would scream going up hills with my 27' holiday trailer. Our work gasser screams and ****** away $ going up hills when the dump trailer is loaded. That is a thing of the past with my diesel.

I read a lot about light loads and short trips hurting deisels, but I just always make sure to get up to operating temperature on my trips and the rest is whatever. Consistently not getting up to operating temp is bad for any vehicle.

The short of it is the cummins is sweet. Very sweet. The gasser flys through mid grade gas like your uncle downing beers at a wedding.


Cummins all day.
 
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TimboRam77

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Cummins comes with a gen4 cab and is IMO unsuitable for a tall person.

I tried so hard to justify it and made offers on two Cummins but it wasn’t meant to happen.
Very happy with my 21 limited 1500 but hate not having the Cummins torque and sound. The billet silver 2500 or 3500 with full silver wheels IMO is the best looking truck on the road. I have no confidence in Cummins unless highly modified or driven mainly for Heavy tow.
 
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Pros:

1. Lots more torque than a HEMI
2. Better fuel mileage
3. Pulls things up hills with ease
4. Quiet (when stock)
5. Performance mods turn them into snarling beasts

Cons:

1. Heavier than a HEMI. Affects towing capacity and payload calculation as part of the GVWR & GCVWR.
2. Diesel is more expensive than 87 or 89 (in my area at least)
3. Added expense of DEF fluid
4. Higher maintenance costs (may be offset by lower fuel costs due to better mileage)
5. Some mods are needed to keep dirt and air out of the fuel system. Injector and injector pump life will improve with better filtration.

I'd pick a Cummins again if I was towing heavy a lot. The 6.4L gas engine is a good one, however, but be mindful of tow weights and long steep grades.

I struggled with that choice and chose the diesel. Maintenance on them for regular devices is really not that bad. Factory maintenance is pretty standard, and oil change/tire rotations cost a bit more because of the amount of oil, but if you do yourself, not hard.

Fuel filters are an additional expense, but you are talking about every 15k miles or so, so the 100 bucks and 1 hour you put into it is also not terrible.

DEF, it depends on how often you pull heavy, but 10-12 bucks every 800-1,000 miles for a jug at the gas station wile you are filling up.

Honestly, the only really scary part is that when the emissions break, they are expensive.

Emissions are covered legally under warranty for 100k, so there is that. Honestly, there are. Lot of people who swear by various oils and additives, but if you leave it stock and just use it..... Many happy miles ahead of you. The one thing about forums is that people don't post when happy, so you are more likely to hear about the problems. Every diesel forum I have read has countless horror stories.

I will say I was happy with my choice of going from a 1500 to a 2500 (diesel). Better payload, more power, and felt more stable when pulling travel trailer and then a 5th wheel. Watch your payload numbers, and enjoy!

And remember, when/if you delete, please don't come crying about transmissions, you push more power to parts not designed for that, well, it ends badly . Every day I see posts on facebook about losing gears, or transmission sucks!
 

Moparfanatic21

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Diesel resale value is all on location to. Around here diesels don't sell for more than a gasser.
 

mtnrider

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Diesel resale value is all on location to. Around here diesels don't sell for more than a gasser.

And where is this place? I have never seen a place where a diesel sells for as low as a gas truck (comparable trucks of course). Quite the opposite, diesel holds it value much better then a gas everywhere I have been.


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PNW-Ram

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So, I have one foot in both camps as I want the Diesel and will be pulling a 4 place covered snowmobile trailer for 8 hour trips one way several times a year. It would be my daily driver, 20 min commute. I like that they last forever, and hold their value better than the Hemi. How much is the def fluid and how often do you have to fill it?

Def usage depends on load - the harder the truck is working the more def it's using.
There have been a few times when I've needed to add a 2.5 gallon(?) bottle (about $8-10) every 4th tank. Sometimes I can 3-4 months without adding it. I really don't understand why people think it's a big deal.

If you are planning to pull a 35k fifth wheel around the country constantly, you'll go through a lot of def, but you'll burn half as much fuel than if you had a Hemi.
 

canadiankodiak700

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How do you know if you have water or air in your fuel system? If it is a diesel then white smoke and rough running is one of the symptoms of air in the injector lines. The engine may start and run briefly, then stall and not start. Water in the fuel tank/line will cause the same effect.

You can purge the injector & fuel lines and there's a documented process for that.

But how in the heck does air and water get into the fuel in the first place? Water, well, it's a thing and it's an easy thing to have happen depending on your fuel source, storage tank condition or even if you don't seal your fuel neck. Most newer diesel trucks have no cap on the fuel filler neck. You'll find the same omission on the DEF fill. So water happens.

The capless systems are not supposed to suck air or be a water infiltration location but I have my doubts that the little metal flapper in the neck will work properly for the entire life of the truck. Sealing the filler necks has two benefits. 1) No water or air can be introduced into the tank, and, 2) no low-life creep can pour anything into either of those openings.


Air in the fuel is also a thing but it indicates that some issue exists in the fuel system. Air bubbles are caused by any air leak on the vacuum (suc‑ tion) side of the fuel system from the fuel tank pick‑up to, and including the lift pump. You can also introduce air into your fuel system if you run the tank too low and the pump starts to cavitate, sucking air into the lines.

So when it's air the purge method is used as well as a fuel system pressure test to find any air leaks.

The water fix? Fuel treatment systems to remove air and water from fuel have been used for years on large diesel powered trucks for years. The technology is available for light duty trucks as well. Companies like Ingersoll Rand, FASS, and others have systems available. Another method is treating the fuel with additives such as those produced by Bell Performance and many others.

I hope that helps.
You realky should take 10 min and go read up on how a capless fuel system works.
You can spray it with a 3500psi pressure washer, and you won't get any water in that tank. Water will go in the outer cap and drain out to atmosphere. The springs holding the 2 flaps are way stronger than any ammount of vacuum pressure your fuel system could ever generate.

Capless has been used for years on vehicles including heavy equipment, age that's some of the dustiest, dirtiest places to use that system, not to mention our machinery gets pressure washed atleast weekly and never get water in the system.

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Scottsjeeprolet

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I’m a Diesel guy. Have been since 04 when I bought my 99 Sport 3500. Love the power. Then got a 06 SRW long bed. That was a beast but super uncomfortable. Now my 17 2500 Laramie is a great truck. You won’t regret it. Maintenance costs aren’t too bad with the extended synthetic oil change intervals. 8k on my present oil, in the year I’ve had it only filled the DEF twice. As far as the fuel cap I bought this.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071VC2D8D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

2018 Hemi

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I traded my 2007 3500 6.7 Cummins in for a 2018 with the 6.4 and been sick about it since. What a big mistake the 18 is a great truck but in no way compares to the Cummins
 

MADDOG

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You realky should take 10 min and go read up on how a capless fuel system works.
You can spray it with a 3500psi pressure washer, and you won't get any water in that tank. Water will go in the outer cap and drain out to atmosphere. The springs holding the 2 flaps are way stronger than any ammount of vacuum pressure your fuel system could ever generate.

Capless has been used for years on vehicles including heavy equipment, age that's some of the dustiest, dirtiest places to use that system, not to mention our machinery gets pressure washed atleast weekly and never get water in the system.

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Yeah...I read all that and still don't trust 'em because folks can put whatever they want in there with very little force.

I did say "I have my doubts" and I still do. I did not state that water infiltration through the filler neck was the primary source of water getting into the fuel system.
 

Moparfanatic21

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And where is this place? I have never seen a place where a diesel sells for as low as a gas truck (comparable trucks of course). Quite the opposite, diesel holds it value much better then a gas everywhere I have been.


.
Down in Texas. I just bought two 2nd gens one with a 12V (86,000 miles) and a 24V (112,000 miles) both NV4500 for $2600 combined. Diesels around here don't hold their value. Maybe it's the higher diesel prices here, maybe it's the small town. I have no clue.
 

mtnrider

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Down in Texas. I just bought two 2nd gens one with a 12V (86,000 miles) and a 24V (112,000 miles) both NV4500 for $2600 combined. Diesels around here don't hold their value. Maybe it's the higher diesel prices here, maybe it's the small town. I have no clue.

You absolutely stole those unless they are just completely trashed. That is Not the norm by a long shot.


.
 

dhay13

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Diesel resale value is all on location to. Around here diesels don't sell for more than a gasser.
My son was looking to buy one mid 2018. Found 2. One was a 2016 Big Horn with about 50,000 on it and the other was a 2017 with about 20,000 but it had 2 CARFAX accident reports. Both were Big Horns and both were about $46,000. You could have bought those brand new for under $55,000 in many cases I'd think. He did get a quote on a brand new Laramie Cummins for I think $57,000. Prices were just outrageous and couldn't be justified for a used one. He ended up with a 2018 Big Horn 2500 6.4 for $40,000 with 6000 miles on it. He now has over 80,000 on it and has not had a single issue and has towed his 8000lb TT over 7000 miles with it.
 

dhay13

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The biggest con of the Cummins is the payload. At about 12,000lbs you are pretty much maxed out on payload so no way you are legally gonna tow a 15,000lb trailer unless you load everything behind the trailer axle, which won't tow very well and not be very safe. Not a product of being a bad package, just the weight restrictions on a 2500 and the extra weight of the heavy Cummins. I said before if I needed a diesel it would be a 3500. Anything I can legally tow with a 2500 Cummins I can tow with my 6.4. If I needed to tow more then I'd go 3500
 

TimboRam77

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Yeah...I read all that and still don't trust 'em because folks can put whatever they want in there with very little force.

I did say "I have my doubts" and I still do. I did not state that water infiltration through the filler neck was the primary source of water getting into the fuel system.
There is an easy fix for gas filler necks. amazon curt 23244 2.44 inch trailer wheel bearing protector dust seal. get 2 for 4.15 free shipping prime. Perfect fit seal great, problem solved.
 

canadiankodiak700

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Yeah...I read all that and still don't trust 'em because folks can put whatever they want in there with very little force.

I did say "I have my doubts" and I still do. I did not state that water infiltration through the filler neck was the primary source of water getting into the fuel system.
Nobody is putting anything in there without a proper funnel. Not just any funnel will work nor will a jerry can. If someone first goes to the effort to get the prooer funnel, then a normal or locking cap wouldn't stop them either. And a locking cap is very easy to defeat, any small flat screwdriver will bust the lock a also if you squeeze hard on the infinate turn locking caps, you can twist them out.... I've lost my cap keys enoug to learn this and now, no longer waste my money on them.

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tjfdesmo

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Last I heard (very recently) is my dealership service dept is, with me, also awaiting word on the recall of the Bosch CP4.2 fuel pump.
Yes, waiting and wishing. Currently, though, it is vaporware.
 
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