Spark Plug ?

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Marshall

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To properly check the gap you have to force a tool (feeler gauge, wire gauge, etc.) between the iridium plated electrode and the ground electrode. That can cause damage. If you are just floating a tool in there and not touching the center electrode, what is the point? You are just guessing with that method.
I think most people can look at a gap and know if it looks OK, or the box was dropped on the floor when some kid is stocking shelfs, Do I use a gauge ? sometimes, if I am working on good used standard plugs, or points, always check.
Match book used to be right on way back when everyone smoked.

I used a wire gauge more then a flat feeler point gauge. light touch with either
Standard plugs, what ever I can find on the bench, tool box?
If someone does not know what the gap should look like, chances are they are not working on motors.

Last set I did , I used my eye ball gauge , they all looked the same, about what I thought they should look like, so I put them in, On the wife's car, easy, just 4 of them.

Does 1 or 2 th make any difference? to me I don't think so, look at a plug with 50, 100K on it still works, gap will be way out there, and should be changed.
 
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BenchTest

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I think most people can look at a gap and know if it looks OK, or the box was dropped on the floor when some kid is stocking shelfs, Do I use a gauge ? not as a rule , unless I am working on good used standard plugs, or points. I used a wire gauge more then a flat feeler point gauge.
If someone does not know what the gap should look like, chances are they are not working on motors.
You must have VERY precision eyesight.
 

Taifun7

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Checked RockAuto Website. Found Part # SP143877AB Mopar OE Price $17.39 ea.
NGK Part# 92145 (Laser Iridium) Alternate part # for LZFR5C111 Price $6.58 ea.
Why would you spend darn near 3 times the money on a Mopar part?
 

Marshall

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You must have VERY precision eyesight.
Well after 70 yrs of working on stuff, I think so, and I have checked my eye against a gauge and for my stuff ,its OK.
In a commercial shop, that's different I suppose, I never worked in a auto shop.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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On paper a smaller gap will advance spark timing as it takes less coil saturation time to have enough juice to jump the gap,and the opposite happens for a larger then normal gap,and as you state the voltages are slightly differant because of the saturation time.
It's pretty common to run plug gaps of .026 to .032 thousands on boosted or nitrous applications,as the higher cylinder pressures require a smaller gap for the spark to jump so it basically doesn't blow out.
I played with gaps from .026 to .032 on my nitrous'd truck and the wifes 1320,and settled on .032" for both,as i couldn't tell any differance in eithers 1/4 mile times,but i'm also running whats considered baby shots ,70 shot on the truck and 50 shot on the car.If i was running a bigger nitrous shot,i'd probably drop down to somewhere around .028",and maybe go to 3 or more steps colder on the plugs instead of the 2 steps colder i ran in both,depending on how much nitrous is being sprayed


My supercharged 5.7 it's 1 step colder and a gap of .30, per my tuner. Best overall power output. Pre gaped would never get here so every plug has to be gapped and they are iridium plugs.
 

Dusty

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"I had written about how a smaller gap would trigger at a lower voltage and advance the timing. A larger gap would conversely require a higher voltage and retard the timing..."

Uninitialized, the secondary of a spark coil system is not a complete circuit. The gap determines the rise time in the secondary coil winding and when the spark will produce enough electromotive force to jump the gap. Only when there is enough electrical pressure (voltage) to jump the gap is the circuit pragmatically completed.

If you want to ensure an even spark timing across all cylinders, each plug should have the same gap.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 125964 miles.
 

hemihustlin

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On paper a smaller gap will advance spark timing as it takes less coil saturation time to have enough juice to jump the gap,and the opposite happens for a larger then normal gap,and as you state the voltages are slightly differant because of the saturation time.
It's pretty common to run plug gaps of .026 to .032 thousands on boosted or nitrous applications,as the higher cylinder pressures require a smaller gap for the spark to jump so it basically doesn't blow out.
I played with gaps from .026 to .032 on my nitrous'd truck and the wifes 1320,and settled on .032" for both,as i couldn't tell any differance in eithers 1/4 mile times,but i'm also running whats considered baby shots ,70 shot on the truck and 50 shot on the car.If i was running a bigger nitrous shot,i'd probably drop down to somewhere around .028",and maybe go to 3 or more steps colder on the plugs instead of the 2 steps colder i ran in both,depending on how much nitrous is being sprayed
i know you run coppers. what would you reccomend for a stock tune daily driver truck, driven like its stolen 3/4 of the time lol
im getting to 130k kms starting to check plug prices
ngk g power looks like best bang for buck
obviously i don't mind changing them before 160k kms. ran the copper champions on my 06 hemi changed those things like every 60k kms, every 2 or 3 years

rock auto has this little comparison chart but obviously like every one they try to upsell their most expensive stuff

thanks!
 

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Sherman Bird

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i know you run coppers. what would you reccomend for a stock tune daily driver truck, driven like its stolen 3/4 of the time lol
im getting to 130k kms starting to check plug prices
ngk g power looks like best bang for buck
obviously i don't mind changing them before 160k kms. ran the copper champions on my 06 hemi changed those things like every 60k kms, every 2 or 3 years

rock auto has this little comparison chart but obviously like every one they try to upsell their most expensive stuff

thanks!
Put the NGK's in. Champion has had bad plugs right out of the box too many times for me to trust them anymore. NGK's have never failed me, across the board.... and I do this for a living, so my perspective is broader than the average DIY'er.
 

Dean2

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I did not read all of the replies, but in my view, if you aren't going to check the gaps to ensure they are correct and matched, then leave the old plugs in till you see a big drop in mileage of it starts to run rough. Not much point in putting in new parts if they aren't all properly gapped.
 

Wild one

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i know you run coppers. what would you reccomend for a stock tune daily driver truck, driven like its stolen 3/4 of the time lol
im getting to 130k kms starting to check plug prices
ngk g power looks like best bang for buck
obviously i don't mind changing them before 160k kms. ran the copper champions on my 06 hemi changed those things like every 60k kms, every 2 or 3 years

rock auto has this little comparison chart but obviously like every one they try to upsell their most expensive stuff

thanks!
I ran Denso 3381's in the truck,they're a step colder,but i never had any issues with them as a daily driver plug.Don't buy them off amazon or ebay though. I ran them at gaps from 0.028" to 0.032" and never seen any differance in milege/starting/drive ability etc.,they'd probably be perfectly fine at 0.040" gap on a stock truck
 

Walt daddy

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What’s the recommended mileage for replacement of #92145 NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs, vehicle is 2016 Ram 5.7 Hemi …… Thanks !
 
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