Stainless Works Exhaust Rattle

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Wild one

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Thanks for the tips, I actually did upgraded the clamps and had some connections welded at the exhaust shop. Is vband clamps what you used? I am not apposed to changing them again if that’s the solution, does anyone recommend a certain style of band clamp and brand? Sleeve style? Lap joint? V-band? And I have the bolts about as tight as they will go on all clamps with and impact, hand tightened first to make sure the aluminum spacer in the middle sits right.

I think you might be farther ahead pulling them off and wrapping them.It's pretty common for the knock sensors to pick up the exhaust pulse ping in the primaries.You've pretty well went through everything else,about all that's left is to wrap them.Plus you'll keep more heat in the primaries which promotes exhaust scavenging,and you'll have less under hood heat to contend with.My headers are double wrapped and the rest of my exhaust system is wrapped back to my X pipe,i use the mufflers as a poor mans expansion chamber.If you decide to wrap them an old tip is to soak the wrap in water before using,it'll lay alot nicer,and it's alot nicer to work with,not quite as itchy to handle.
 

Nick@GotExhaust

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Thanks for the tips, I actually did upgraded the clamps and had some connections welded at the exhaust shop. Is vband clamps what you used? I am not apposed to changing them again if that’s the solution, does anyone recommend a certain style of band clamp and brand? Sleeve style? Lap joint? V-band? And I have the bolts about as tight as they will go on all clamps with and impact, hand tightened first to make sure the aluminum spacer in the middle sits right.


For my application I just used what was provided with the X pipe,

555-30893.jpg
 
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Shelton90

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I think you might be farther ahead pulling them off and wrapping them.It's pretty common for the knock sensors to pick up the exhaust pulse ping in the primaries.You've pretty well went through everything else,about all that's left is to wrap them.Plus you'll keep more heat in the primaries which promotes exhaust scavenging,and you'll have less under hood heat to contend with.My headers are double wrapped and the rest of my exhaust system is wrapped back to my X pipe,i use the mufflers as a poor mans expansion chamber.If you decide to wrap them an old tip is to soak the wrap in water before using,it'll lay alot nicer,and it's alot nicer to work with,not quite as itchy to handle.

is there anyway to wrap while in the truck? It’s a PITA to install these due to that one 10mm bolt holding the dipstick tube, and being lifted I have to take my engine mount off to assess this bolt, it’s a whole day job. I’d rather honestly pay someone, if there’s any reputable mopar shops in Louisiana, please advise.
 

G-Ride990

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Do you have alfa obd? You can use that software to set the rpm to anything you want and it will hold it there for about 15 seconds. Might help you track down the noise.
 

Wild one

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is there anyway to wrap while in the truck? It’s a PITA to install these due to that one 10mm bolt holding the dipstick tube, and being lifted I have to take my engine mount off to assess this bolt, it’s a whole day job. I’d rather honestly pay someone, if there’s any reputable mopar shops in Louisiana, please advise.

You can try,i know one guy who did wrap them after he'd installed his headers,but when he was done,he said he would of been farther ahead if he'd pulled the headers back out.You should have shortened that bolt on the dipstick when you had it out,lol.
Let us know how you make out wrapping them if you do tackle the job with them still installed.Good old fashioned stainless steel hose clamps work good for holding the wrap in place,and in some areas are easier to work with then the stainless steel ties are.
 
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Shelton90

Shelton90

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No I don’t have the alpha, but I can get a hand to sit in the truck and replicate the noise.

I
Do you have alfa obd? You can use that software to set the rpm to anything you want and it will hold it there for about 15 seconds. Might help you track down the noise.

You can try,i know one guy who did wrap them after he'd installed his headers,but when he was done,he said he would of been farther ahead if he'd pulled the headers back out.You should have shortened that bolt on the dipstick when you had it out,lol.
Let us know how you make out wrapping them if you do tackle the job with them still installed.Good old fashioned stainless steel hose clamps work good for holding the wrap in place,and in some areas are easier to work with then the stainless steel ties are.

I was figuring that, I could kick myself in the rear for not wrapping them, they just looked so good to me. Hind site 20/20
 

pacofortacos

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I can see why it's hard to trace.
For a second, in the last video it almost sounded like a cracked flex plate.

Will it keep rattling if you can keep it at that rpm and load? Or is it just transitional.
 
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Shelton90

Shelton90

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I can see why it's hard to trace.
For a second, in the last video it almost sounded like a cracked flex plate.

Will it keep rattling if you can keep it at that rpm and load? Or is it just transitional.


It will stay rattling as long as it’s at that rpm range.
 

pacofortacos

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I feel for you, taking headers on and off is not the most fun job.
Less fun if it doesn't solve the problem.
 

Wild one

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No I don’t have the alpha, but I can get a hand to sit in the truck and replicate the noise.

I




I was figuring that, I could kick myself in the rear for not wrapping them, they just looked so good to me. Hind site 20/20

You'll be well experienced at doing headers if you pull them out to wrap.I've had mine in and out a few times,by the second time,you've figured out a few shortcuts,shorten that dipstick bolt this time around,lol:dogpile:
 
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Shelton90

Shelton90

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You'll be well experienced at doing headers if you pull them out to wrap.I've had mine in and out a few times,by the second time,you've figured out a few shortcuts,shorten that dipstick bolt this time around,lol:dogpile:

It’s not exactly the bolt length, it’s getting to it with the lift, the lift bracket covers that whole area. That one 10mm bolt adds another 3hrs to the job... the passenger side is a breeze
 

Wild one

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It’s not exactly the bolt length, it’s getting to it with the lift, the lift bracket covers that whole area. That one 10mm bolt adds another 3hrs to the job... the passenger side is a breeze

Slot the bracket on the dipstick so it slides down onto the bolt,that way you just need to loosen the bolt,might not even hurt turning the bolt into a stud.Find a slightly longer bolt the same size and cut the head off it,clean up the threads so a nut goes on / off easily ,that way the dipstick tube can just slide onto the stud. Another option might be to look at a Lokar flexible dipstick their ED 5015-24 is 24" long and a few guys have had success with it.I had them build me a custom 31" long flexible dipstick years ago,but guys have tried to get the same dipstick, as i had them make me a 1/2 dozen years ago and haven't had much luck though,i'm not sure why,as Lokar had no problem building me one when i was dealing with them,but i dealt with them by phone,not by email.****** pic,but you can see my Lokar dipstick and where it ends,if i was doing it again,i'd have it made 33" or 34" long

DSCN3790.JPG
 
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Shelton90

Shelton90

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Slot the bracket on the dipstick so it slides down onto the bolt,that way you just need to loosen the bolt,might not even hurt turning the bolt into a stud.Find a slightly longer bolt the same size and cut the head off it,clean up the threads so a nut goes on / off easily ,that way the dipstick tube can just slide onto the stud. Another option might be to look at a Lokar flexible dipstick their ED 5015-24 is 24" long and a few guys have had success with it.I had them build me a custom 31" long flexible dipstick years ago,but guys have tried to get the same dipstick, as i had them make me a 1/2 dozen years ago and haven't had much luck though,i'm not sure why,as Lokar had no problem building me one when i was dealing with them,but i dealt with them by phone,not by email.****** pic,but you can see my Lokar dipstick and where it ends,if i was doing it again,i'd have it made 33" or 34" long

Ive heard of those, just thought it wasn’t necessary as I took my time and measured and bent the oem dipstick multiple times to get it perfect (as it could be). If I pull the headers off again, I might go that route. Good idea on slotting the bracket. I’ve got to get with stainless works also, today on the phone I was told it could be a defect, they’ve had three total from the rep I talked to. I had an emergency at work and had to hang up.
View attachment 239769
 

clint440

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Wasn’t the emblems unfortunately. Here’s a video of me replicating the noise.

I have different headers, but I get a similar sound in the low, lugging rpms and just assumed it was the extra noise from running headers with no CATs. Also JG tuned but have never had it follow-up tuned and would have no idea if it's pulling timing or how that would feel??

Would maybe running CATs help reduce the resonance or vibration therefore not upsetting the knock sensors? Not sure if that's a valid solution but if it is, I think that would be better than doing all that work again to put header wrap on.

In addition, some header manufacturers say not to use header wrap , unsure of Stainless Works but it would void the warranty on my DTs.

Good luck.
 
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Shelton90

Shelton90

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I have different headers, but I get a similar sound in the low, lugging rpms and just assumed it was the extra noise from running headers with no CATs. Also JG tuned but have never had it follow-up tuned and would have no idea if it's pulling timing or how that would feel??

Would maybe running CATs help reduce the resonance or vibration therefore not upsetting the knock sensors? Not sure if that's a valid solution but if it is, I think that would be better than doing all that work again to put header wrap on.

In addition, some header manufacturers say not to use header wrap stainless, unsure of Stainless Works but it would void the warranty on my DTs.

I’ve sent JG about 10 data logs after the headers, basically it’s pulling so much timing it’s negating the headers. In other words it’s like I’m almost running stock manifolds. I was pulling -9 and through revised tuning got to -6 at wot varies through rpm range. I’m not into the resonance thing pulling the timing due to the fact that builds with way more hp are running stainless works or ARH without pulling timing due to that. I’ve had countless emails with Jay and it’s a hard issue and hard to track down (false knock). The primaries are touching, the problem is where. It’s aggravating when you spend big money to get high quality and end up with issues. I’ll report back when I get ahold of SW again.

Good luck.
 

Wild one

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If SW sends you out a replacement set of headers,i hope you plan to wrap them this time around,lol
 
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Shelton90

Shelton90

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So I had a guy at work that owns 3 vettes over 900hp and a hellcat look/listen to it. He said the primaries are touching in too many spots and sounds like a scavenger pipe is loose. I’m going to have to get a replacement set as I’d be fighting a loosing battle trying to fix what shouldn’t be broken. They’re just defective.
 
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Shelton90

Shelton90

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Update- so I spoke with Joe at SW and he’s getting everything sorted out. They even took the time to pull the patterns for the headers while I laid under the truck to see if the tolerances was right. Note to anyone with SW, by design they are made to touch in certain areas on purpose. Now we haven’t collectively thought of a solution yet, going from least invasive to most, they’re sending me all new hardware to ‘try’ before I pull the heads. Great customer service and makes me feel better.
 

CYSTemrebel

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I am assuming you have MDS turned off via the tune?

Will it make the sound just revving it to those rpms or do you have to be moving?

Your exhaust should be pretty loud with headers and no cats I
would think.

It might be popping inside the pipes.
 

pacofortacos

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It's possible, stainless echoes some.

I wouldn't be happy with that sound either, you know it's bad when you can record it from inside the cab. LOL
It's not like it's a pleasant sound either.
 

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