Stainless Works Exhaust Rattle

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Wild one

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Unhook the pipe off the collector and take a look inside the collector while you're banging on the header,it damn near sounds like it might have one primary tube not welded in solid.It's just a guess,but right now you got nothing to lose.The pass side has enough wrap on it to kill any noises inside the collector.
 
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Shelton90

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Unhook the pipe off the collector and take a look inside the collector while you're banging on the header,it damn near sounds like it might have one primary tube not welded in solid.It's just a guess,but right now you got nothing to lose.The pass side has enough wrap on it to kill any noises inside the collector.

Will do in the am, may sound crazy but I think the muffler is also creating a ton of resonance making everything vibrate a little more. It’s a DOD24 Mufflex, I’m buying a carven just to slap on and try, it’s just money right? I wedged the hell out of some exhaust wrap between the primaries and got the rattle to stop on the drivers side, took it for a spin, still rattling sounding like it’s coming from the rear now, I’m just thinking the acoustics isn’t right, may sound dumb and it sure as hell might be but I think a shorter muffler is better for long tubes with no cats. Hell if I know... lol
 
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Shelton90

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What about wrapping from headers back anyone tried that with stainless steel?
 

Wild one

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What about wrapping from headers back anyone tried that with stainless steel?

My whole exhaust is wrapped from the headers to my X ,which is only about a foot in front of the mufflers.I use the mufflers as a poor mans expansion chamber.My headers are actually double wrapped. I've never had any issues with the knock sensors pulling timing,plus my tuner is amazed at the amount of timing my truck will take with no issues.Suck it up,pull the headers and wrap them lad,you;ll be farther ahead in the long run,lol
 

pacofortacos

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How much did those cost?
I wouldn't be happy with that.

Wrapping made my stainless ceramic coated JBA shorties rust - only where they were wrapped was the only rust on the header - saw it after they were removed and unwrapped. But I had to wrap them for heat control, there was just too much heat towing.
 
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Shelton90

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How much did those cost?
I wouldn't be happy with that.

Wrapping made my stainless ceramic coated JBA shorties rust - only where they were wrapped was the only rust on the header - saw it after they were removed and unwrapped. But I had to wrap them for heat control, there was just too much heat towing.

$1500 I think, I’m not too happy about it either
 

Wild one

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How much did those cost?
I wouldn't be happy with that.

Wrapping made my stainless ceramic coated JBA shorties rust - only where they were wrapped was the only rust on the header - saw it after they were removed and unwrapped. But I had to wrap them for heat control, there was just too much heat towing.

I highly doubt they rusted completely through,unless they were on the truck for 10 years. Surface rust they'll handle for several years before it becomes an issue.My JBA's have been double wrapped and on my nitrous fed truck going on 6 years now,yes they have some surface rust,but by no stretch are they close to complete rust through,i figure i have at least another 6 years before they'll need replacing
 

pacofortacos

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I highly doubt they rusted completely through,unless they were on the truck for 10 years. Surface rust they'll handle for several years before it becomes an issue.My JBA's have been double wrapped and on my nitrous fed truck going on 6 years now,yes they have some surface rust,but by no stretch are they close to complete rust through,i figure i have at least another 6 years before they'll need replacing

:) no it was just surface rust, but the rest of the header looked like it was barely used. It didn't help the resale much but probably didn't hurt it either.
I was really just surprised more than anything, I didn't really expect that with stainless and ceramic coat.
 

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:) no it was just surface rust, but the rest of the header looked like it was barely used. It didn't help the resale much but probably didn't hurt it either.
I was really just surprised more than anything, I didn't really expect that with stainless and ceramic coat.

Next time you should say it was surface rust,as the way your post was worded alot of guys probably thought they were rusted out. Not specifically targetting you,but posts like yours leave alot to be desired in the fact you only give enough information to fluck up guys who don't know much about headers or wrap. Just my opinion
 

pacofortacos

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Sorry about that, I can see how it is vague. I would have phrased it like you did - rusted out if it was shot - but yeah I can see how that wouldn't be conveyed in the vague phrasing.

Living in the salt belt, well brine belt now, we tend to use just rust to describe surface rust, and rusted out to describe rust with holes. But I don't even give a location, so no one would know that :)
 
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Shelton90

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https://youtube.com/shorts/aPuJ3mc1Q1M

I would have started another thread but due to the rattle and being in this area I thought it was unnecessary; I spent a good part of the day check everything to do with the headers, added some more exhaust wrap wedged between the primaries, double banded connections, re torqued everything, and o2 sensors. I laid under the truck and got a hand to hold it at 1700-2k with the parking brake on and no rattle, then I stumbled upon the cv axles. These seems like a lot of slack. For the ones that has replaced theirs, has it made this type of rattle/noise? I can’t imagine that is an acceptable amount of play...
 

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:) no it was just surface rust, but the rest of the header looked like it was barely used. It didn't help the resale much but probably didn't hurt it either.
I was really just surprised more than anything, I didn't really expect that with stainless and ceramic coat.

From what I read you shouldn't wrap anything coated, asking for a coating failure. I know that holds true in the coatings/painting world in construction in which I work in. Some coatings/paint/substrate should not be covered.

From what I learned, I wouldn't be afraid to wrap bare stainless but on mild steel or a coated surface, wrap can contribute to it's demise.
 

Wild one

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From what I read you shouldn't wrap anything coated, asking for a coating failure. I know that holds true in the coatings/painting world in construction in which I work in. Some coatings/paint/substrate should not be covered.

From what I learned, I wouldn't be afraid to wrap bare stainless but on mild steel or a coated surface, wrap can contribute to it's demise.

Wrapping a coated header can be rough on the coating,as the wrap will act like a sanding median over time,but wrap is superior to controlling heat,so it's kind of like 6 of 1 or 1/2 dozen of the other. Which do you want to maintain more,the wiring / hoses or plastic components under the hood,or maintaining the ceramic coating.
Add in the fact ceramic coating doesn't have a great life expectancy on a header even unwrapped,especially if you're in an area that gets cold in the winter,the thermal shock of the exhaust heat hitting a primary pipe at -30F seems to contribute to a break down of the ceramic coating after a winter or 2

(2) DEI Header Wrap Overview - YouTube
 
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clint440

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Wrapping a coated header can be rough on the coating,as the wrap will act like a sanding median over time,but wrap is superior to controlling heat,so it's kind of like 6 of 1 or 1/2 dozen of the other. Which do you want to maintain more,the wiring / hoses or plastic components under the hood,or maintaining the ceramic coating.


(2) DEI Header Wrap Overview - YouTube

It's a good video, I watched that from another post you posted in. The guy did mention at 2:40 of the video about 25% overlap in order to not trap too heat that can cause fatigue. On a high quality, bare stainless steel header, I'm swayed to use header wrap. You talked me into that, and will reference that video if I'm in that situation.

On any header with a ceramic coating, you are asking for a coating failure, just as you described. And wrap on mild steel is a moisture trap. It's also a warranty violation with some brands.

I suspect ceramic coating is hit or miss, based on how it was applied by the shop/human. Shop painters are hit or miss. Knock on wood my mild steel, 14 gauge, ceramic coated headers still look new.
 

Wild one

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It's a good video, I watched that from another post you posted in. The guy did mention at 2:40 of the video about 25% overlap in order to not trap too heat that can cause fatigue. On a high quality, bare stainless steel header, I'm swayed to use header wrap. You talked me into that, and will reference that video if I'm in that situation.

On any header with a ceramic coating, you are asking for a coating failure, just as you described. And wrap on mild steel is a moisture trap. It's also a warranty violation with some brands.

I suspect ceramic coating is hit or miss, based on how it was applied by the shop/human. Shop painters are hit or miss. Knock on wood my mild steel, 14 gauge, ceramic coated headers still look new.

I wouldn't be to worried about wrapping a coated header,if anything the 2 of them will control heat better,and the ceramic coating should add even more life expectancy to your wrapped header,as it'll take the wrap a year or 2 to break down the ceramic coating,which should add another year or 2 to the life expectancy of your wrapped header,lol
 

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I wouldn't be to worried about wrapping a coated header,if anything the 2 of them will control heat better,and the ceramic coating should add even more life expectancy to your wrapped header,as it'll take the wrap a year or 2 to break down the ceramic coating,which should add another year or 2 to the life expectancy of your wrapped header,lol

Why pay the money for a coated header and more money to wrap it, to only have the wrap trigger a coating failure on something you paid extra for? That wrap on the right header seems to work well by itself.

One or the other for me.
 

pacofortacos

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https://youtube.com/shorts/aPuJ3mc1Q1M

I would have started another thread but due to the rattle and being in this area I thought it was unnecessary; I spent a good part of the day check everything to do with the headers, added some more exhaust wrap wedged between the primaries, double banded connections, re torqued everything, and o2 sensors. I laid under the truck and got a hand to hold it at 1700-2k with the parking brake on and no rattle, then I stumbled upon the cv axles. These seems like a lot of slack. For the ones that has replaced theirs, has it made this type of rattle/noise? I can’t imagine that is an acceptable amount of play...


I can't say that I have ever felt mine.
 

Wild one

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Why pay the money for a coated header and more money to wrap it, to only have the wrap trigger a coating failure on something you paid extra for? That wrap on the right header seems to work well by itself.

One or the other for me.

Who said anything about getting them coated then wrapping them,this is about the OP's headers that are already coated. Why would you pay for both. That wouldn't be wise,but if you've already paid to have them coated and are having issues with the knock sensors pulling timing on you,and you've tried pretty well every other band-aid fix known to man,and your down to your last option which is to wrap them,then i'd wrap them and not worry about the coating and whether it lasts or not.Get with the program there lad,you seemed to have wandered off on a differant tangent. Nobody was reconmending doing both,but if you've already paid for one style of coating and it's not panning out,then you'll have to write that money off and go for the other style of coating which is wrap.
 
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Shelton90

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When I installed the headers, I put the oem 6.1 gaskets on in addition to rtv that came with the SW headers, SW recommends no gasket per instructions. Do you guys add rtv with your manifolds or just run gaskets? I wonder if this is causing an issue as well... this is also coming from the SW designer. Been talking with them regularly and I’ve eliminated the rattle unless I’m under load, driving at 1700-1900
 
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