Stainless Works Exhaust Rattle

[clint440]

Who said anything about getting them coated then wrapping them,this is about the OP's headers that are already coated. Why would you pay for both. That wouldn't be wise,but if you've already paid to have them coated and are having issues with the knock sensors pulling timing on you,and you've tried pretty well every other band-aid fix known to man,and your down to your last option which is to wrap them,then i'd wrap them and not worry about the coating and whether it lasts or not.Get with the program there lad,you seemed to have wandered off on a differant tangent. Nobody was reconmending doing both,but if you've already paid for one style of coating and it's not panning out,then you'll have to write that money off and go for the other style of coating which is wrap.

Yes we strayed off but I didn't initiate the tangent. Guilty for contributing along with a few others but not starting. My apologies to the OP and readers who desire to stay specific to the situation in which I hope is resolved.

Lad??? Maybe I Identify as Lass??? Insensitive Canadian anyways...

 

[Wild one]

When I installed the headers, I put the oem 6.1 gaskets on in addition to rtv that came with the SW headers, SW recommends no gasket per instructions. Do you guys add rtv with your manifolds or just run gaskets? I wonder if this is causing an issue as well... this is also coming from the SW designer. Been talking with them regularly and I’ve eliminated the rattle unless I’m under load, driving at 1700-1900

Hunt up a set of Remflex 6022 gaskets,they're gaining alot of respect with the guys running headers.Most speed shops should have them in stock,or you can find them online,i'm old school i support the local brick and mortar shops before i support the online big guys,lol

 

[Wild one]

Yes we strayed off but I didn't initiate the tangent. Guilty for contributing along with a few others but not starting. My apologies to the OP and readers who desire to stay specific to the situation in which I hope is resolved.

Lad??? Maybe I Identify as Lass??? Insensitive Canadian anyways...

LOL maybe. I usually put it down as old and grumpy with no patience for stupidity,i'm old enough to be dad to alot of guys on here,and you know what the old man was like when you flucked up,lol

 

[Shelton90]

Hunt up a set of Remflex 6022 gaskets,they're gaining alot of respect with the guys running headers.Most speed shops should have them in stock,or you can find them online,i'm old school i support the local brick and mortar shops before i support the online big guys,lol

They on order boss

 

[slbenz600]

Hello all, I have been searching on here for a while now, and I hate to come in swinging but I needed to reach out for help. I am having a terrible rattle after installing 1 3/4 stainless works long tubes, and is pulling timing about 6 degrees according to Jay. I’ve wedged header wrap between the primaries/collectors, wrapped the trans lines and cinched them up, upgraded the exhaust clamps and had some connections welded while leaving access to trans pan for service, and retorqued everything about 5 times after heat cycling. It’s driving me crazy after such an expensive system. Dip stick tube is bent out the way and also wrapped just in case it contacts anything. The exhaust shop I bring it to says it’s resonance from so much flow going through the mufflex 24” single in causing the rattling sound? I’m looking into the j pipe just to try, I’m out of options. Help is much appreciated and sorry for the long post.

Mods:
5.7 8 speed 4x4 3.92 gears
1 3/4 Stainless Works Catless
Mufflex DOD24
Vararam
E-fan/clutch delete
180 thermostat
ECM/TCM 93oct Tuned by Jay Greene

6” Lift
35x12.5x20 Micky Thompson P3
Bilsteins


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What size of pipes are attached to headers ? When I researched the 5.7 and 6.4 Hemi engines would run just as hard with shorty headers with them they are not much longer eliminating dip stick or trans pan. From the end of the shorty header install a minimum of 3 inch stainless steel from front to rear whether a cat is used or not and a X pipe or X muffler this x pipe will help eliminate any exhaust rattle. Hope this helps your problem.

 

[Shelton90]

What size of pipes are attached to headers ? When I researched the 5.7 and 6.4 Hemi engines would run just as hard with shorty headers with them they are not much longer eliminating dip stick or trans pan. From the end of the shorty header install a minimum of 3 inch stainless steel from front to rear whether a cat is used or not and a X pipe or X muffler this x pipe will help eliminate any exhaust rattle. Hope this helps your problem.

This is a full SW 1 3/4 primaries long tube set up. After the collectors its 3” pipe all the way to the muffler then dual 2.5” factory. I have clearance everywhere, nothing even close to touching.

On another note, I went with the long tubes over shortys due to research and talking to people. The shortys might be easier to install and eliminate the factory logs and broken bolts while gaining a little hp but nothing compared to a long tube set up.

 

[Wild one]

This is a full SW 1 3/4 primaries long tube set up. After the collectors its 3” pipe all the way to the muffler then dual 2.5” factory. I have clearance everywhere, nothing even close to touching.

On another note, I went with the long tubes over shortys due to research and talking to people. The shortys might be easier to install and eliminate the factory logs and broken bolts while gaining a little hp but nothing compared to a long tube set up.

On your other thread about your axles maybe being your issue,i'd pull them both and drive the truck around for a day and see if they might be your issue.The truck will drive perfectly fine with-out the front axles in place,or the front diff either. My 4X4 has everything from the front driveshaft ahead removed,it's been that way for a few years now.Makes removing or replacing the headers alot easier,lol

 

[Shelton90]

On your other thread about your axles maybe being your issue,i'd pull them both and drive the truck around for a day and see if they might be your issue.The truck will drive perfectly fine with-out the front axles in place,or the front diff either. My 4X4 has everything from the front driveshaft ahead removed,it's been that way for a few years now.Makes removing or replacing the headers alot easier,lol

Good idea, they have to come out anyways right