Switched to Redline 5w30

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Forsakentalon

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Use the white bottle of red line.

Bought it at 30k miles. Now at 80k miles. Was always Pennzoil platinum or pul

Feels more sluggish power wise.

Idle cold oil pressure is still at 55-60 psi. Driving is the same.

But

Warm idle with redline is 45 psi. Was always 33 psi with Pennzoil 5w20.

And I think the ticking is louder. But maybe it's ticking is from the injectors?

When I hold a rubber hose up to my ear and valve cover I hear silence. When I hold it next to an injector it is way louder.
 
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Burla

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Please take a YouTube with audio from underneath engine at warm idle for 3 minutes if you want us to put an ear on it. Most people pay money to get better psi at warm idle, that would be a win. Sluggish is possible if not likely, it is fluid friction, most of the time it can be described at butter smooth. Curious, what made you change? What gas to use use, 87,91?
 
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Forsakentalon

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Prior oil filters were mostly wix xp or stock Mopar 339?., or mobil.1.

The last two oil changes after reading the favoritism of fram FE2 I went with the FE2. It's a pain to squeeze between the transmission cooler lines but it does fit. Would like to go to the fe10060 just because it fits easier. But my understanding is it's real close to Royal purple 10-48 which is bad for the hemi.

Gas has been 88 with 10%ethanol.

 
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ramffml

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You won't be able to feel a difference in power due to viscosity. The guys on bitog calculated it out and IIRC it's like a fraction of 1 hp due to increased friction. I've run everything from 0w-30 to 5w-20 to 5w-30 and 0w-40 and never felt a bit of difference.

The summer I ran Mobil 1 FS 0w-40 is the summer I also recorded my best ever MPG. Not because of the viscosity but despite it.
 

Burla

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Prior oil filters were mostly wix xp or stock Mopar 339?., or mobil.1.

The last two oil changes after reading the favoritism of fram FE2 I went with the FE2. It's a pain to squeeze between the transmission cooler lines but it does fit. Would like to go to the fe10060 just because it fits easier. But my understanding is it's real close to Royal purple 10-48 which is bad for the hemi.

Gas has been 88 with 10%ethanol.

So when you take vids you should always take them from underneath the engine.

But thanks for taking it, and imo you do have some sewing machine tick going on that showed up after 40 seconds or so. Meaning it is either lifters or exhaust most likely. On the hemi tick scale I would put it in the 3 category rated out of ten, not very bad, but it's there. There is a when not to use redline thread, I think I said after 75k miles you need a reason like tick to switch, because you run the risk of having a louder engine. NOW, if you read the science of EP additives and base oils it takes time to plate. So now the decision has been made too late to go back, so please give it time. When EP additives plate that will go away in most cases, like 80% of the time. If you read the redline thread, it is not rare for the tick to disappear overtime, most famously my tick took 500 miles and has been gone a decade plus, and hemi 395 I think his took 1700 miles. So the largest mistake would be to change the oil now, redline probably hype cleaned some metal that was keeping ya quiet, and now you have to wait for the EP plate, it is science.
 

Burla

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Why is the royal purple bad for the hemi? I've used that filter the past couple of oil changes.
It is just that particular filter is a cousin to the filter that had some complaints. Amsoil put a tsb on that filter identical to 10-48, see oil filter thread for options and info.
 

skates15

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My truck is a dog on 87 gas, runs like a r@ped ape on 91. Might want to try that.
I have a newish 23 1500 with 6k miles. Switched to top gas right after buying the truck and don't run the low grade formulated gas. My wife thinks Shell top gas is best and compared to other top gas brands the truck seems to have more push.
 

skates15

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So when you take vids you should always take them from underneath the engine.

But thanks for taking it, and imo you do have some sewing machine tick going on that showed up after 40 seconds or so. Meaning it is either lifters or exhaust most likely. On the hemi tick scale I would put it in the 3 category rated out of ten, not very bad, but it's there. There is a when not to use redline thread, I think I said after 75k miles you need a reason like tick to switch, because you run the risk of having a louder engine. NOW, if you read the science of EP additives and base oils it takes time to plate. So now the decision has been made too late to go back, so please give it time. When EP additives plate that will go away in most cases, like 80% of the time. If you read the redline thread, it is not rare for the tick to disappear overtime, most famously my tick took 500 miles and has been gone a decade plus, and hemi 395 I think his took 1700 miles. So the largest mistake would be to change the oil now, redline probably hype cleaned some metal that was keeping ya quiet, and now you have to wait for the EP plate, it is science.
I will check out the other thread concerning when to use redline. I've had 2 oil changes thus far even though the truck only has 6k mikes. First change was after 1500 miles of breaking in the hemi.

Both oil changes I used red line 5w30. I read that the oil had a high level of Molly added to the oil which is supposed to help alleviate the tick?

Do you recommend using red line 5w30 with a new hemi?
 

Burla

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I will check out the other thread concerning when to use redline. I've had 2 oil changes thus far even though the truck only has 6k mikes. First change was after 1500 miles of breaking in the hemi.

Both oil changes I used red line 5w30. I read that the oil had a high level of Molly added to the oil which is supposed to help alleviate the tick?

Do you recommend using red line 5w30 with a new hemi?
I don't anymore, there are great stories of high mileage rams on nothing special oils. Also, if you ever get hemi tick it is nice to have that card in the deck. In theory, redline could keep hemi tick away, but with pricing and other factors I personally would run some cheap synthetic, maybe add biotech, and keep that 5w30 redline card for when you lose the hemi tick lottery. See the bioteck thread, it is coined poor mans redline, similar science less of it, I think it is a good compromise.
 

Burla

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I will check out the other thread concerning when to use redline. I've had 2 oil changes thus far even though the truck only has 6k mikes. First change was after 1500 miles of breaking in the hemi.

Both oil changes I used red line 5w30. I read that the oil had a high level of Molly added to the oil which is supposed to help alleviate the tick?

Do you recommend using red line 5w30 with a new hemi?
when not to use redline.
 

skates15

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It is just that particular filter is a cousin to the filter that had some complaints. Amsoil put a tsb on that filter identical to 10-48, see oil filter thread for options and info.
I read some of the thread and it looks like RP 20-820 should be okay, thanks for the heads up on the 10-48.
 

KKBB

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I used 4 quarts of redline 5w-20 mixed with 3 quarts of redline 5w-30 at the last oil change on my wife's 2022 ram 1500 limited. The engine is super smooth!!! She had 2 previous durangos, both with the 5.7 hemi. I have a 2019 ram 2500 with the 6.4 hemi...none have sounded as smooth as her current truck/engine...hopefully that means we got a good one.
 

Jgaz

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I don't anymore, there are great stories of high mileage rams on nothing special oils. Also, if you ever get hemi tick it is nice to have that card in the deck. In theory, redline could keep hemi tick away, but with pricing and other factors I personally would run some cheap synthetic, maybe add biotech, and keep that 5w30 redline card for when you lose the hemi tick lottery. See the bioteck thread, it is coined poor mans redline, similar science less of it, I think it is a good compromise.
Would you please provide a part number for the bioteck that you referred to above?

I’ve used redline 5w-30 in my 3017, 1500, 5.7L, Ram for the last 50K miles. Had the tick since new. Redline virtually eliminated it.

I was down to my last 4 qts. of redline so on this last oil change (approx. 1K miles ago) I used 5qts. of 5w-30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and 2 qts. of redline 5w -30. So far, so good.
I really dislike the price of the redline and am looking for a “Plan B”.

Thank you @ Burla for your continuous input on the oil subject.
 

Burla

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If you use 5w30 you can get away with using a quart size biotech, 15 ounce is only 2-3 bucks less, dumb to buy this size even if you buy 32 ounce for two intervals. find and read the biotech thread in my sig, see poll results. You do have a chance to keep tick away, but if you read redline thread you know that is the best product at killing ticks as a % of trucks. biotech, about 50% effective, redline about 80, but read the polls. Biotech is 7 visc, 5w20 is usually about 9, so that is why I say if you use 5w30 you can get away with running 32 ounce. You could also try 15 ounce first, if that doesn't work, drop in rest of it.

So that is great about the redline, so if this experiment doesn't work you know you can go back.

And you are welcome, helping people kill hemi tick doesn't get old. I do not recommend mixing biotech and redline unless redline didn't kil the tick. It is fine to mix it as in the little bit you change oil with an oil change. It is compatible in this sense, it is just a "little" risky mixing ester products in a full sump.
 
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