Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Hemi395

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I would love to know where this debris is coming from. You do realize if that gets into a lifter, or worse, into an MDS lifter, that lifter is toast, right? It seems like having magnets on the oil filter and drain plug does more good an all these fancy oils like Red Line. That would explain why they have all those screens everywhere inside the engine. The only place that iron like that could come from is from the valvetrain. Can you think of any other place inside the engine?


I think that the 6.4 SRT headers fit on the 5.7. Of course, the rest of the system might also have to be swapped.
Yeah I looked the 6.4 manifolds but you would have to change the y pipe/cats and then do some fab work to get it to mate up with the rest of the exhaust. Honestly I felt 0 difference in power going back to manifolds lol

Yeah idk where the iron is coming from in these motors. I know other makes have magnetic drain plugs from the factory but i.dont know if they have some fuzz on them after every oil.change....
 

tidefan1967

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Yeah I looked the 6.4 manifolds but you would have to change the y pipe/cats and then do some fab work to get it to mate up with the rest of the exhaust. Honestly I felt 0 difference in power going back to manifolds lol

Yeah idk where the iron is coming from in these motors. I know other makes have magnetic drain plugs from the factory but i.dont know if they have some fuzz on them after every oil.change....
All my older GM products had the magnetic drain plug from the factory And there was always some gray matter stuck to the magnet no matter how many miles were on the vehicle. Of course it was always worse when the engine was newer.
 

Rod Knock

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All my older GM products had the magnetic drain plug from the factory And there was always some gray matter stuck to the magnet no matter how many miles were on the vehicle. Of course it was always worse when the engine was newer.
I wasn't talking about the gray/black gunk. I'm talking about slightly bigger particles. @Hemi395 what do you think?

On the 2018 Santa Fe Sport, at 32K miles, I drained the oil and had a hairline piece of debris, iron of course, on the drain plug magnet. None of these vehicles come with magnetic drain plugs, I installed stainless steel plugs with a neodymium magnet glued inside. They were $15 at first, the $19, now they're $24. That's not even inflation, lol.
 

Hemi395

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I wasn't talking about the gray/black gunk. I'm talking about slightly bigger particles. @Hemi395 what do you think?

On the 2018 Santa Fe Sport, at 32K miles, I drained the oil and had a hairline piece of debris, iron of course, on the drain plug magnet. None of these vehicles come with magnetic drain plugs, I installed stainless steel plugs with a neodymium magnet glued inside. They were $15 at first, the $19, now they're $24. That's not even inflation, lol.
I think at first you should have some metal fuzz on the magnet but it should gradually decrease as you put miles on and do oil changes. In theory that's how it should work anyway
 

Burla

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What if they have it wrong about flat tappet cams and zinc? What if zinc was just a bargain that helped a little? What if high molybdenum and poe base oils protect those flat tappets better then zinc? What if high moly and poe plus zinc made those flat tappets damn near bullet proof? Of the 100 or so ram forum members who had lifter tick prior to killing those ticks with redline 5w30 or even lubegard, how many do you think had faulty needle bearings? 10% maybe 20? Faulty lifter bearing = flat tappet?

Every single engine builder absolutely hammers using moly lube at break in with barely a word about zinc. The use of heavy zinc becomes relevant because of what it does in oil. I don't know how moly became the ugly sister to zinc, but I wonder how much testing was actually done on this, especially considering the results of our testing. We had many guys test zinc/zddp additives and nada, did nothing for hemi tick, unless that zinc was nestled in the bosom of moly and ester base oils. If you had a flat tappet I guarantee you would use an oil made for it, shouldn't hemi's have a hemi specific oil with different base oils and high moly? Oh wait they already do, just not for the 1500.

More specific, why did fca require high moly for their hemi specific oil but not high zinc like they do in flat tappet cams? Maybe it is what is absent that tells the story?
 

Rod Knock

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What if they have it wrong about flat tappet cams and zinc? What if zinc was just a bargain that helped a little? What if high molybdenum and poe base oils protect those flat tappets better then zinc? What if high moly and poe plus zinc made those flat tappets damn near bullet proof? Of the 100 or so ram forum members who had lifter tick prior to killing those ticks with redline 5w30 or even lubegard, how many do you think had faulty needle bearings? 10% maybe 20? Faulty lifter bearing = flat tappet?

Every single engine builder absolutely hammers using moly lube at break in with barely a word about zinc. The use of heavy zinc becomes relevant because of what it does in oil. I don't know how moly became the ugly sister to zinc, but I wonder how much testing was actually done on this, especially considering the results of our testing. We had many guys test zinc/zddp additives and nada, did nothing for hemi tick, unless that zinc was nestled in the bosom of moly and ester base oils. If you had a flat tappet I guarantee you would use an oil made for it, shouldn't hemi's have a hemi specific oil with different base oils and high moly? Oh wait they already do, just not for the 1500.

More specific, why did fca require high moly for their hemi specific oil but not high zinc like they do in flat tappet cams? Maybe it is what is absent that tells the story?

@Burla, remember the SRT8 oil recommendation? It was: 5W-40 that carried an MB229.3 or 229.5 approval. They had this requirement even after Chrysler split from Daimler. As a bonus, unless it was an MB-specific oil, most of those oils also carry a Porsche A40 approval. And yes, Porsche has made pushrod and V8 engines. With MS-12633 Chrysler wanted to have their own mid-SAPS 0W-40 oil, like GM does. Except that there is Dexos 2 approved Castrol EDGE 0W-40 (mid-SAPS), Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40, and so on. You can check the Dexos 2 website. Pennzoil's mistake was that they didn't get PUP SRT 0W-40 Dexos 2 approved. They would have sold more of it. The reason why they didn't get it approved is two-fold: 1) it doesn't pass the Dexos 2 requirements 2) FCA wanted to have some coverage in case of warranty claims. Legally speaking, MS-12633 can't hold up in court for several reasons, and then there is the Magnuson Moss act. Of course, the average consumer doesn't have the time and resources to fight them. My point is that there isn't anything special about it. Valvoline Extended Protection 5W-20 has 300ppm of Moly in it. Why isn't everyone running it in their HEMI?

You can buy straight MoDTC ?

they sell some other goodies as well, but you might have to buy a lot.
That's the same stuff that's in Lubegard Biotech. Funny enough, Lubegard contains a second Phosphorus based friction modifier, I forgot what it's called.

I am not discounting Red Line oil for what it does. It's expensive track oil and it was never formulated specifically for the HEMI. From everything I've seen it doesn't really produce better wear results than other oils, that's why it's a track oil. What it's good at is standing up to heat and maintaining MOFT at temperatures that ILSAC oils will just quit.

Needle bearings need a friction modifier to combat wear. I've replaced U-Joints on big rigs several times and what killed them was either dirt, lack of lubrication, lack of maintenance, or just plain wear. A million miles is a lot. I usually greased them with Moly grease on a regular basis. I use Moly grease for a lot of things, I like it.

Motor oils have evolved, and both Mobil 1 and Castrol are ahead of the curve. With their latest iteration of 0W-20 and 5W-20, Castrol EDGE EP now claims ACEA C5. This oil has some amazing ester-based friction modifiers in it to meet the fuel requirements of ACEA C5. The 0W-20 is also MB229.71 approved, which is based on ACEA C5 with slightly tighter requirements. The beauty of it is that their 5W-20 is the same formulation as 0W-20 except that the 0W-20 has a lower poor point. Friction modifiers have evolved beyond Moly.

What quiets the HEMI? Viscous oil, pure and simple. The valvetrain is noisy, and viscous oil quiets it down. To be more accurate, it makes it less noticeable, but unless it's a good oil in there, viscosity alone won't do much for a HEMI.

What kills lifters? Several things. Lifter contamination during assembly, or contamination after the fact with debris, varnish, neglect, oil starvation, inability to maintain MOFT due to heat.

What I'm trying to say is that there is more to preventing lifter failure in these engines than just "pour some RedLine in it or add Lubegard Bio-Tech."

I managed to get the engine to run cooler, so now I can run 5W-20 if I choose to do so because now the engine can actually maintain MOFT. People who never think twice about it and run whatever cheap 5W-20 (Valvoline is there too), and idle their HEMIs at 220F oil temperature or above for extended periods of time will experience lifter failure guaranteed. So will those that tow heavy and experience oil temperatures of 240F or above while towing. In this scenario, even 0W-40 isn't guaranteed to save their bacon. Maybe Red Line 5W-30, because it can take more abuse. That's why the manifold bolts snap as well, high heat. We can debate this until the end of time, but the fact is that a lot of people show up here after years of neglect and want help with their ticking HEMI. The HEMI is a ticking time bomb, and if you don't take care of it, it will chew the cam to the bone and you will be left without a motor.
 

Burla

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I tend to disagree, hemi's need redline like a needle needs a vein. Nothing has proven itself more, as anyone who has been here since day one can attest. Lubegard was a nice find, but it isn't as much of a tick killer as redline is. Still hoping for some more options, maybe buying a straight additive like that place sells, either moly or esters can provide some more answers. Either that or walking into redline headquarters and asking them for a custom bend, lol. Redline isn't a track oil, old track oils had low CA, but redline added high CA especially for road cars. The only reason not to use it in everyday non di turbo applications is cost/benefit. There is little reason to use it in a toyo 4 banger that will run forever of whatever oil you put in it.
 

Burla

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To say what all the BITOGers say iin saying it is viscosity, is to ignore the results on this board by 1/2 of the field at least. Guys like myself with brand new hemi's if we call 3500 miles brand new found that redline kills their ticks even if it is thin 5w20 redline, is just to not care to listen about 100 random ram forum members experiences. To be honest it is just flat wrong, if it was viscosity the ticks would be gone right away, not 500 miles like some hemi's or even 2300 miles like some hemi's.
 

HEMIMANN

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What if they have it wrong about flat tappet cams and zinc? What if zinc was just a bargain that helped a little? What if high molybdenum and poe base oils protect those flat tappets better then zinc? What if high moly and poe plus zinc made those flat tappets damn near bullet proof? Of the 100 or so ram forum members who had lifter tick prior to killing those ticks with redline 5w30 or even lubegard, how many do you think had faulty needle bearings? 10% maybe 20? Faulty lifter bearing = flat tappet?

Every single engine builder absolutely hammers using moly lube at break in with barely a word about zinc. The use of heavy zinc becomes relevant because of what it does in oil. I don't know how moly became the ugly sister to zinc, but I wonder how much testing was actually done on this, especially considering the results of our testing. We had many guys test zinc/zddp additives and nada, did nothing for hemi tick, unless that zinc was nestled in the bosom of moly and ester base oils. If you had a flat tappet I guarantee you would use an oil made for it, shouldn't hemi's have a hemi specific oil with different base oils and high moly? Oh wait they already do, just not for the 1500.

More specific, why did fca require high moly for their hemi specific oil but not high zinc like they do in flat tappet cams? Maybe it is what is absent that tells the story?

I concur, for what it's worth.

After years in the industry, I view soluble tertiary moly, or whatever it's called, as a modern improvement from ZDDP zinc additive. In fact, many, if not most, piston makers have gone to moly impregnated piston skirt sidewalls. What does that tell us?
 

Rod Knock

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I tend to disagree, hemi's need redline like a needle needs a vein. Nothing has proven itself more, as anyone who has been here since day one can attest. Lubegard was a nice find, but it isn't as much of a tick killer as redline is. Still hoping for some more options, maybe buying a straight additive like that place sells, either moly or esters can provide some more answers. Either that or walking into redline headquarters and asking them for a custom bend, lol. Redline isn't a track oil, old track oils had low CA, but redline added high CA especially for road cars. The only reason not to use it in everyday non di turbo applications is cost/benefit. There is little reason to use it in a toyo 4 banger that will run forever of whatever oil you put in it.
To say what all the BITOGers say iin saying it is viscosity, is to ignore the results on this board by 1/2 of the field at least. Guys like myself with brand new hemi's if we call 3500 miles brand new found that redline kills their ticks even if it is thin 5w20 redline, is just to not care to listen about 100 random ram forum members experiences. To be honest it is just flat wrong, if it was viscosity the ticks would be gone right away, not 500 miles like some hemi's or even 2300 miles like some hemi's.
I didn't discount Red Line or downplayed its merits, so I hope that's not all you got from my post. There is more to the roller lifter issues than just oil.

I don't think Lubegard does much other than fight for the surface when mixed with modern oils. It does have some cleaning power, I've seen that in some engines I tried it, and maybe that's what helped some with varnished up HEMIs. Beyond that, it's nothing like Red Line.

Again, I hope that's not all you got from my post. I do, however, believe that the lifter issues merit a more in-depth discussion beyond "use Red Line and have a nice day." Red Line Oil isn't specifically formulated for HEMI engines. It's a fluke that it helps, and if Red Line will change their formulation enough in the future, it might lose some of its cleaning and anti-wear characteristics to gain other benefits. It has to keep up with the times and current engines. The HEMI is in many ways outdated. Because, otherwise, why are we even here?

An interesting question is: when did the lifter issues in the 5.7 massively start?
 

Rod Knock

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I concur, for what it's worth.

After years in the industry, I view soluble tertiary moly, or whatever it's called, as a modern improvement from ZDDP zinc additive. In fact, many, if not most, piston makers have gone to moly impregnated piston skirt sidewalls. What does that tell us?

It tells us that they should have done it a long time ago. Moly is a hard metal. I had mountain bikes with frames made of Chromoly. Still, when it comes to motor oil, and oils in general, Moly is not the only friction modifier.
 

Burla

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I concur, for what it's worth.

After years in the industry, I view soluble tertiary moly, or whatever it's called, as a modern improvement from ZDDP zinc additive. In fact, many, if not most, piston makers have gone to moly impregnated piston skirt sidewalls. What does that tell us?
and I dont think the modern moly (MoTDC) was formulated yet when flat tappets were in oem engines. who knows if it was maybe we would still see flat tappers:)
 

Burla

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Use redline and have a nice day works for me and about 100 of us. Not having a ticking engine trumps what BITOGers think. It doesn't minimize tick in many of these machines, it completely eliminates it. I know BITOGers will never accept this, which works for them, because they arent the ones with hemi tick, we are. Or should I say we were, lol..
 

Rod Knock

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Use redline and have a nice day works for me and about 100 of us. Not having a ticking engine trumps what BITOGers think. It doesn't minimize tick in many of these machines, it completely eliminates it. I know BITOGers will never accept this, which works for them, because they arent the ones with hemi tick, we are. Or should I say we were, lol..

I don't why you keep bringing up BITOG, as I'm not exactly a BITOGer. On the contrary, the bulk of the people over there embrace fantasies over facts. I like facts better than fantasies and stories, and I like to get to the root of the problem.

Please show me how many people running Castrol EDGE 0W-40 in a HEMI experience cam/lifter failure.
 

Burla

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Long term wear numbers that continue to go down prove it works, tbn retention on most hemi's also adds to the fact it works for extended intervals, and quiet hemi tick. Knock wood a large group of guys with hemi tick (previous to redline) have no cam issue, what is the common denominator in those hemi's? redline. A BITOGer will always find a way to argue against these facts, but they are indeed facts. In BITOG's defense, they just don't know what we know, real world testing. Until you have your tick disappear with an oil change, you simply would not understand. If you understood, you would always reply the same way, cool that is awesome.
 

Burla

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If you believe Castrol edge 0w40 is the answer, build a coalition of testers and test it, like I did with redline and lubegard. I support that 100%, it might work. I bring up BITOG when I here the same exact words that is spouted over there about redline. The BITOGers hold the line til death, totally ignore facts. There is no reason to say the same thing about viscosity when ten years ago 5w20 redline was killing ticks, when all 5w20's were at the line of 5w30. There is also no reason to say redline is a track oil, as if it is not designed for passenger car use. Again, uoa's tell a different story. but you keep saying that garbage why? It is something a BITOGer would say, just say'n.
 

Burla

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In the hunt for answers if you want to find a replacement for what redline does for the hemi, do better then just saying it is viscosity or calling it a track oil. Because that is what I did 5 years ago, in an effort to find answers the lubegard strategy was born, with some success I might add. Give birth to a strategy, hopefully based on a scientific theory as redline and lubegard was, and see it through. Start a thread, ask for guys with hemi tick to take part. There may be some success with super class oils like Edge. I guess what we seam to have these days is a lesser supply of ram forum members with hemi tick, it seams like not that long ago we had one a week or more.
 

Rod Knock

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tbn retention on most hemi's also adds to the fact it works for extended intervals
How many have tested for TAN in conjunction with TBN?

A BITOGer will always find a way to argue against these facts, but they are indeed facts.
Please stop. I'm not the typical BITOGer. I have an account there, just like you do. Weren't you complaining about the ad hominem attack strategy over there and how they attacked your character? By putting me in the same box, you are doing the same thing to me, and that's not very nice of you.

In BITOG's defense, they just don't know what we know, real world testing.
I actually do real-world testing. I actually noticed the difference between 0W-40 and 5W-20. I tried different filters, I replaced the thermostat, and I did a grille shutter delete. And I can see results. The ECM in 5.7 is coded to look for 5W-20. And 5W-20 combined with cooler running temperatures makes the truck run like a bat out of hell on 87 octane gas. That makes it in turn more efficient.

In the hunt for answers if you want to find a replacement for what redline does for the hemi, do better then just saying it is viscosity or calling it a track oil. Because that is what I did 5 years ago, in an effort to find answers the lubegard strategy was born, with some success I might add. Give birth to a strategy, hopefully based on a scientific theory as redline and lubegard was, and see it through. Start a thread, ask for guys with hemi tick to take part. There may be some success with super class oils like Edge. I guess what we seam to have these days is a lesser supply of ram forum members with hemi tick, it seams like not that long ago we had one a week or more.
Yes, and I have asked the right questions without getting much in the way of answers. But, at the end of the day, I can rebuild my HEMI if it ***** the bed. That's fine. I want to prevent it and to prevent it. I need to know why it fails. On the flip side, arguing instead of having a civilized discussion is counterproductive. I don't just post stuff randomly. I research it, just like when I figured out the two types of fluids that go into the BW44-44 transfer case for pre-2016 models (TES-389) and post-2016 models (Mobilfluid LT). Because of me, when you go to RedLine.com and put in the truck info for a RAM 1500 that's 2016 or newer, there is actually a fluid recommendation for the BW44-44 transfer case in the form of RedLine MT-LV. Before that, they only had a recommendation for the NV transfer cases in the form of RedLine C+. So it takes time and effort to find information and post it. And maybe I am putting too much time into this without even getting the satisfaction of a productive dialogue. So I will keep quiet from now on.
 

Burla

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That is where I heard your arguments, not a personal attack man. If you look again, I am encouraging you to move forward with your ideas. We all benefit from more answers. I didnt call you anything, reread stuff, just labeling the argument as a BITOG argument. Where else did you get your notions about track oil and redline? not here, not with our results and uoa's. BITOG? just admit and move on. Where do you think I got my early knowledge of base oils from? I will tell you BITOG? Only something popped into my lap without me asking for it, something called hemi tick. Used what I learned to try and help myself and some fellas.
 
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