Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Burla

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You have to verify what grease is in there, greases arent compatible. He says Kendall Super Blue 427 grease is in every wheel bearing he has taken apart. I wouldnt take that for true information, find out what mopar uses first. If you use the wrong grease, you can actually lessen the lifespan instead of increase it.
 

HEMIMANN

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You have to verify what grease is in there, greases arent compatible. He says Kendall Super Blue 427 grease is in every wheel bearing he has taken apart. I wouldnt take that for true information, find out what mopar uses first. If you use the wrong grease, you can actually lessen the lifespan instead of increase it.

Very important point! There are charts out there showing compatibility of grease soap types, but who the hell knows what it is just by looking at it? Mfg.'s add all sorts of funky coloring to make you think they're "special". Morons.

Some incompatible greases harden into concrete, some turn into soup and run out. I used to carry the chart around with me.

Of course, the proper way to re-grease a bearing is to use a bearing packer in a solvent tank, wash the bearing thoroughly, then use the packer to re-pack with grease. I still stick with lithium complex soap thickeners, though Deere has a big w*o*o*d*y for polyurea, now. All sorts of claims and testing about stay-in-place improvement. Not a huge deal, in my book, for load bushings, which is their primary intent.

Back to wheel bearings - NLGI No. 2 thickness, lithium complex soap thickener (high temp), synthetic oil is best. Don't need moly dry lube additive in there, but if you grease a bunch of equipment like I do, I just carry this type for all.


with moly added
 
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tjfdesmo

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The best way to disable your MDS altogether and induce cam phaser delays is to run thicker oil, it seems. As stupid as that might be, it also seems to me that the PCM is married to 0/5W-20. So unless you get a custom tune, the 5.7 HEMI doesn't work correctly with higher viscosity oil.

You don't have to believe me. Just get any decent OBDII Bluetooth scanner and a JSCan ($23.99 per VIN license) and monitor your MDS and cam phaser.

Of course, people who get custom tunes with upgraded HEMIs probably no longer desire MDS. Cam phaser operation is another issue, though.

So much for "just run RedLine 5W-30, it'll be just fine." Or Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, for that matter. It won't.

View attachment 482452
What parts are different on the 6.4 that specs 0W40? I ran 0W40, 5W40, and 10W40 and never saw a lick of difference in performance or MPG.
 

Rod Knock

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What parts are different on the 6.4 that specs 0W40? I ran 0W40, 5W40, and 10W40 and never saw a lick of difference in performance or MPG.
The 5.7 uses the same parts (VVT, lifters, etc) as the 6.4. My thinking is that the programming may be different, so that the PCM looks for an W-20 viscosity curve. Who knows when they might have implemented this, as the pre-VVT HEMI ran on 10W-30.
 

HEMIMANN

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The lawyers didn't define "life" for us. Life is whatever they want it to be! :D

Generally, I've given up regreasing wheel bearings for Lent. All depends on how good their seals are, and how bad we blast them through contaminants (water, dirt, snow, etc.). In fact, my next project is to overhaul the mower deck spindle bearings after 9 years running in sandy soils. The seals are shot (won't hold grease).
 

tjfdesmo

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Burla

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I wont be greasing mine, I am lucky to put 2k miles a year on the truck in moderate nor cal. But, if I ever get a fail, then I'd take a closer look and pull it apart. If it is dry, I will do this thing moving forward, and do it often.
 

tjfdesmo

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Mobil Industrial Lubrication mantra: for every bearing failing from undergreasing, 10 fail from overgreasing.

That is, soap thickener churning and overheating.
This was a continuous battle in the ATV/UTV industry. Companies started making "bearing greasers", and convinced people to pry the grease seals out and pump them plumb full of grease, "Because the factory doesn't put enough". No amount of data would convince them that the cavity did not need to be full. Pump away...
 

Rod Knock

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@tjfdesmo So I used JScan to read cam position, VVT data, and MDS actuation. Just did a 20-mile roundtrip while watching the data and I think I'm dealing with faulty software, as the readings are all over the place. Check this out:

Screenshot_20220113-102605_OBD JScan.jpg

Screenshot_20220113-102920_OBD JScan.jpg


Screenshot_20220113-105329_OBD JScan.jpg
 

ramffml

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This was a continuous battle in the ATV/UTV industry. Companies started making "bearing greasers", and convinced people to pry the grease seals out and pump them plumb full of grease, "Because the factory doesn't put enough". No amount of data would convince them that the cavity did not need to be full. Pump away...

Well color me surprised. I've always been told to keep them full of grease as well. In fact I towed a trailer home few months ago that was old and on blocks for some years, inspected bearings and they were in good shape so just "sent it" down the freeway. Stopped after 20 minutes and felt a bit warm so filled it up with grease and rechecked after 30 mins, was cooler. Am I just imagining that or was something else going on? Genuine question, your guys' recent posts have me scratching my head.

I probably should have checked with digital thermometer to be certain of the temp changes.
 

Burla

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Whether someone tries to grease bearings or not, good time to post bad bearing symptoms, especially if you do grease them because it is possible doing so can also cause issues.

  • A grinding or squealing sound when the car is in motion
  • The steering wheel shakes while driving
  • It is hard for the wheel to go in motion
  • Shifting Noise Left to Right.
  • Worn Patches on Tires. The wheel bearing can be so worn that you have a play in the wheel; this makes the wheel alignment faulty and will wear your tires ...
  • Play in Wheels. If you lift your car’s suspension with a floor jack and you can feel a play in all directions when you grab a wheel and rocking it ...
  • Your Car Feels Loose. The wheel’s looseness, also known as wheel play, is another common symptom of a bad wheel bearing
Any other ones that site missed? They used to replace wheel bearings as a matter of fact with complete brake jobs, I would suggest that anytime you replace rotors you should take that opportunity to put new bearings up. Even if the old ones aren't bad, save them and use them on your sons pinewood derby car.
 

HEMIMANN

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This is for old time bearings that you had to remove - Timken Tapered Rolling Element Bearings. Two per wheel. There were no zerks, no seals so they had to be regreased. There was no way to "put in a little grease". Again, you used a hand pump grease packer to clean in solvent tank, then pack with grease.

So - a factory "sealed for life" bearing is supposed to have long-lasting, tight seals that minimize grease leakage and contaminant ingestion. Synthetic greases can last a long long time. It's the contamination that eventually gets in there, because seals are dynamic elements that wear out. These we typically threw out when they start to chatter - not pull apart to regrease.

A regreasable housing (zerk) should have a bleed orifice to allow excess grease out. It's also a signal when to stop filling. When machine starts, churning grease gets pushed out of the weep hole. Self-regulation.

Chassis joints are a whole different deal - low speed surfaces, heavily loaded, subject to all sorts of contamination. These seals used to weep grease over mileage. They had zerks. Now they don't - because.....the seals are supposed to be so good.
 

Burla

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see hemimann's voa's in blackstone thread...
 
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