Discussion in 'Engine & Performance' started by mcclintock89, Feb 7, 2013.
Did Slick 50 re-brand itself??
MOA is the un additive additive, Only what your engine needs and no junk, a Virgin BG MOA analysis read like this. Do a search and find out for yourself. All the best oils have the same thing in their additive package. Just trying to spread some knowledge bud.
Man I can't find any of the good oils you guys are talking about where I live... All I see is Mobil 1 and Castrol.
You can buy Amsoil and Redline directly from the manufacturer, you wont find them at Kmart. It is about 4 dollars more per quart for group 4 or 5 oil. However, I always get mine off Ebay or Amazon cause I like using pay pal.
Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil
I was trying to find a image that showed the difference between synthetic and conventional oil, this was the best I could find at the moment but there are better ones out there. For you guys running Mobil One your oil looks like the oil coming from the conventional side. Again, Mobil 1 is very high quality oil because of the filtering process and the additive package, but bottom line is it has a petroleum base or in other words uneven oil molecules versus what you would see in group 4 or 5 oils.
engine wear and oil pressure
due for my first oil change bout to get some RP. any suggestions on the filter?
I run RP and an RP oil filter. RP oil filter isn't cheap, but it's built well and can be used for extended OCIs. Inside The Royal Purple Synthetic Oil Filter Video V8TV - YouTube
I just bought a new hemi. In my chevys I've always done my first oil change at 5k mi and gone with mobile 1. When do you dodge guys do your first oil change and when do you switch to synthetic
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I like to change mine after 1000 miles and use a Engine Oil Break-In Additive. Break in oils generally have additional elements like ZDDP that help smooth sharp edges between metal surfaces, and I believe those need about 1500 miles to be effective and then you can change them out. It also helps seat your pistons. Redline has one of the most respected break in oil additives around. You don't want to run a lot of ZDDP because it can harm your cat overtime, but generally speaking there is zero risk to running it for a short break in period. I would only use a break in additive during break in, but some people run it all the time, great for your engine not so great for your exhaust. It is more important then ever because oil manufacturers are moving away from ZDDP because of it's toxicity and harshness on your cat, so there is less ZDDP in modern oils then a while back when everybody had it. Once your pistons are set and sharp edges are smooth, ZDDP is less important.
A lot of people don't use them, but if you are concerned about that, then a break in oil and a quick change would be the way to go in my opinion.
Because synthetics have such good protection from metal shearing, it is a good idea to run conventional oil for the first couple oils changes. You actually want a little wear in the beginning of a break in, but after that then you want the additional wear to come as little as possible. Hope that helps. Many manufacturers now run Mobil 1 right out of the gate. Less of an issue because Mobil 1 really isn't a synthetic base. But the fact is there is so much benefit to running synthetic that many high end car's warranty are conditional on the fact the owners has to use synthetic oil.
Anyway, many people think break in periods aren't necessary anymore and I don't have any proof that they are, but I am old school and think it is a good idea.
They are broke in before they go into the vehicle. Good to go off the lot.
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