Synthetic Oil

[smiley]

are wix filters synthetic?

I am fairly sure they are not.


$miley

 

[*tim*]

Anyone know of a synthetic drop in filter for a Chevy cruze. When I ordered my amsoil their website said to use six which is what I had been using anyways. I just planned on changing it at 6 months

 

[Harrisb]

On any performance related vehicle I run the original Dino oil for 1500 miles then switch her up to RP. Except the srt10 which came with mobile 1 synthetic to begin with I believe, still swapped to RP after 1500.

 

[Burla]

Why I choose ester based synthetic better known as group 5 oil, long read google "Esters in synthetic lubricants"wtirren by TG Schaefer for verification or complete article if you please.

I believe Redline and Motul are the only group 5 oils, if anyone knows of another I'd like to know.

Polyol esters can extend the high temperature operating range of a lubricant by as much as 50 – 100°C due to their superior stability and low volatility. They are also renowned for their film strength and increased lubricity which is useful in reducing energy consumption in many applications. The only downside of polyol esters compared to diesters is their higher price tag, generally 20 – 70+% higher on a wholesale basis.

The major application for polyol esters is jet engine lubricants where they have been used exclusively for more than 40 years. In this application, the oil is expected to flow at -65°C, pump readily at -40°C, and withstand sump temperature over 200°C with drain intervals measured in years. Only polyol esters have been found to satisfy this demanding application and incorporating even small amounts of diesters or PAOs will cause the lubricant to fail vital specifications.Polyol esters are also the ester of choice for blending with PAOs in passenger car motor oils. This change from lower cost diesters to polyols was driven primarily by the need for reduced fuel consumption and lower volatility in modern specifications. They are sometimes used in 2-cycle oils as well for the same reasons. In industrial markets polyol esters are used extensively in synthetic refrigeration lubricants due to their miscibility with non-chlorine refrigerants. They are also widely used in very high temperature operations such as industrial oven chains, tenter frames, stationary turbine engines, high temperature grease, fire resistant transformer coolants, fire resistant hydraulic fluids, and textile lubricants.

Ester Chemistry

In many ways esters are very similar to the more commonly known and used synthetic hydrocarbons or PAOs. Like PAOs, esters are synthesized from relatively pure and simple starting materials to produce predetermined molecular structures designed specifically for high performance lubrication. Both types of synthetic basestocks are primarily branched hydrocarbons which are thermally stable, have high viscosity indices, and lack the undesirable and unstable impurities found in conventional petroleum based oils. The primary structural difference between esters and PAOs is the presence of oxygen in the hydrocarbon molecules in the form of multiple ester linkages (COOR) which impart polarity to the molecules. This polarity affects the way esters behave as lubricants in the following ways:

Volatility: The polarity of the ester molecules causes them to be attracted to one another and this intermolecular attraction requires more energy (heat) for the esters to transfer from a liquid to a gaseous state. Therefore, at a given molecular weight or viscosity, the esters will exhibit a lower vapor pressure which translates into a higher flash point and a lower rate of evaporation for the lubricant. Generally speaking, the more ester linkages in a specific ester, the higher its flash point and the lower its volatility.

Lubricity: Polarity also causes the ester molecules to be attracted to positively charged metal surfaces. As a result, the molecules tend to line up on the metal surface creating a film which requires additional energy (load) to wipe them off. The result is a stronger film which translates into higher lubricity and lower energy consumption in lubricant applications.

Detergency/Dispersency: The polar nature of esters also makes them good solvents and dispersants. This allows the esters to solubilize or disperse oil degradation by-products which might otherwise be deposited as varnish or sludge, and translates into cleaner operation and improved additive solubility in the final lubricant.



polyol esters
In general, polyol esters represent the highest performance level available for high temperature applications at a reasonable price. Although they cost more than many other types of synthetics, the benefits often combine to make this chemistry the most cost effective in severe environment applications. The primary benefits include extended life, higher temperature operation, reduced maintenance and downtime, lower energy consumption, reduced smoke and disposal, and biodegradability.

Downsides to esters

As with any product, there are also downsides to esters. The most common concern when formulating with ester basestocks is compatibility with the elastomer material used in the seals. All esters will tend to swell and soften most elastomer seals however, the degree to which they do so can be controlled through proper selection. When seal swell is desirable, such as in balancing the seal shrinkage and hardening characteristics of PAOs, more polar esters should be used such as those with lower molecular weight and/or higher number of ester linkages. When used as the exclusive basestock, the ester should be designed for compatibility with seals or the seals should be changed to those types which are more compatible with esters.

Another potential disadvantage with esters is their ability to react with water or hydrolyze under certain conditions. Generally this hydrolysis reaction requires the presence of water and heat with a relatively strong acid or base to catalyze the reaction. Since esters are usually used in very high temperature applications, high amounts of water are usually not present and hydrolysis is rarely a problem in actual use. Where the application environment may lead to hydrolysis, the ester structure can be altered to greatly improve its hydrolytic stability and additives can be selected to minimize any effects.

 

[Alfonsio]

Control system, royal purple, or valvoline synpower? Which would you or do you use? Also is the oil change message triggered by a specific mileage engine hour or what?

Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk 2

What? No Red Line in the poll?

 

[Burla]

Yeah, it is nobody's fault but redline. They think if they make the best possible oil everybody will just buy it, and that is not what happens. They have a great product but no marketing, it isn't available in the chain stores and they don't have salesmen running around like Amsoil. Hint, if you are the best kept secret in your industry, your marketing package sucks, lol. It takes a lot of effort to run redline in your truck, it is easy to catch Mobil One whenever it is on sale at Costco. I wouldn't blame anyone for running something else.

 

[dodgehemi0]

have yall watched this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne7ayhPVVYY

 

[dodgehemi0]

Just bought a case of Amsoil signature and 25k filter.

 

[dodgehemi0]

Question for you guys who use Amsoil? Does the oil life monitor work well with it, I mean does it let you go 15-20K miles before it says you need to change your oil?

 

[Burla]

I don't run amsoil but I can answer that, no the oil monitor will ask you to change your oil way sooner then your oil needs to be changed, if you run amsoil. I do suggest you do an oil analysis if you want to run any oil 25k, send in a sample at the 15k mark and they will evaluate the condition of your oil. Then just clear the oil monitor on your own, all you have to do is put key in last position before the car starts, pump peddle 3 times, and then shut off and turn vehicle on, that should clear oil light.

 

[ram-head]

Question for you guys who use Amsoil? Does the oil life monitor work well with it, I mean does it let you go 15-20K miles before it says you need to change your oil?

Mine still comes on around 3,000 to 3,500. Haven't checked it exactly. Which I find odd, because the manual says every 8,000 miles. I think it's just a reminder...meaning it doesn't analyze the oil, just reminds you at a certain mileage.

 

[smiley]

Until the 2013 the oil change indicator was just a set amount not taking into account the oil life or usage. The 2013s now have an oil life monitor that will tell you based on algorithm that oil is used up. This is the way GM has done it for a long time. So on older 4th gens the oil change indicator means nothing other than it has been 3000 miles since you last reset it.


$miley

 

[5hole]

I have a 2012 and the oil change light has come on at 5000 miles and 2200 miles. Those are the only 2 times. I change the oil between 5-6000 mile mark so the every 3000
didn't work on my truck.

 

[Cascade]

Figured I would post this here, but I am a amsoil convert now! Just made the switch from mobile 1 to amsoil and I have to say the amsoil made the engine much quieter during idle. The light tick I had before is completely gone and the engine seems to idle smoother. Even though it costs more, I justify that to only having to do an oil change once a year instead of twice

 

[zogg]

I changed to Royal Purple at 2100 miles....used 5w20. Since then I have heard a lot of bad things about RP. Many folks say it is just very expensive regular synthetic oil.

Then there is the issue of my 2500 Hemi towing over 8000 pounds....total gross weight exceeds 14,000 pounds. The owners manual says to use 5w30 when over 14,000 pounds.

So, is RP worth the extra cost?

Also, I emailed Chryslet about the 5w30 in the 3/4 ton truck....here is theie response:
Posted: 10/04/13 09:00am Link *|* Quote *|* Edit *|* Print *|* Notify Moderator
Contacted Chrysler customer service.....here is there reply:

Dear David:

Thank you for contacting the Chrysler Customer Assistance Center.

According to available information, you may use SAE 5W-30 engine oil in
your vehicle as the vehicle is equipped with the 5.7L V8 HEMI VVT Engine
and is periodically being operated under a gross combined weight rating
of 14,000 lbs. or greater.

Thanks again for your email.

Sincerely,

Tony *

Customer Service Representative
Chrysler Customer Assistance Center

 

[hemihustlin]

Bump for excellent thread!

 

[Nanuk]

I've recently changed my oil with Valvoline Syn Power 5-20 with a K&N filter and have notice a difference in that the valve tick is gone . I usually use Valvoline or Castrol but always used Fram TG filter or their ultra filter ... I thinking filter was the difference , Can this be the case ????

 

[rentalguy1]

I just made the switch yesterday to Amsoil OE 5W20 and a K&N oil filter. I will be making the same change at the next oil change on my wife's 2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid. It is already using full synthetic and on a 7,500 mile OCI, but I want Amsoil in it. The main reasons for this because of the length of time Amsoil has been in the synthetic game, and the consistent performance of their product as found in every oil analysis that can be read on the web.

I also have a history with the product that goes back to when I owned a motorcycle shop about 15 years ago. I had several customers that requested it in their bikes, so I became a retailer, and kept it on the shelf and in the shop. In every instance, it seemed to quiet valve train noise, and there was less wear on every top end that I ever inspected, versus dino.

I was not, am not currently, and will not be a licensed distributor in the future. I am not close friends with any distributor, and have not spoken with my former distributor since 2003. I bought the product at a slightly discounted rate, and sold it at a slight markup, just like every other oil that I carried. So you can trust that this is customer testimonial and not an advertisement or marketing.

As far as having the dealer do your oil changes because they are free, get that notion out of your head ricky tick. I had a year of free oil changes on my truck that just ran out. When I climbed under the truck to do change yesterday I found everything below the filter coated with oil and oil dripping off the bottom of the filter. When I grabbed it to remove, it was already a half a thread loose. I am amazed that it still had oil left in it. This is the second time that this has happened to me at a dealership, out of maybe a half dozen oil changes. Also, the one and only time that I used a Jiffy Lube (on a 3000 mile round trip), they stripped the oil plug and didn't say anything. Never more!

I know I am preaching to the choir here, but always do your own oil changes. You won't save that much by using the free oil change sales gimmick, and you just might end up costing yourself a lot more down the road by going that route. When you do your own changes, you get to use the exact oil and filter you want to use. You get to be 100% confident that it was done correctly. And you get to put your own eyes on everything under the hood, and under the truck. If you have a leak, you will find it. If you have something worn or broken, you will find it. Or, if you are like me and find something dirty, you can clean it.

If you must have the dealer do it for some reason, like being in a pinch for time, or to keep the wife from climbing up your backside, check their work. Take the creeper with you and roll up under that sucker in the parking lot. Put your hand on the new filter and the plug. And don't be like me and get the lazy attitude of "my truck only has X,000 miles on it. It's too new to be using oil. There is no need to check it." Pull that dipstick on Saturday morning and check the level if someone else did the change.

Sorry...rant over. Basically, my vote is Amsoil, even though it is a little hard for me to find on the shelf. It is worth seeking out a local distributor or ordering online. RP and Redline are both fine, too. Mobil 1 would be great as well, but I personally would not push past 5K using it. Use a high quality filter for the long OCI's. I prefer K&N out of brand loyalty. Mobil 1 filters are excellent from what I have read. In my 66 Galaxie and 68 GTO I use Wix with dino oil. I don't know if I would use them on a 10K+ mile OCI, but if someone has some data to change my mind I would gladly read it. If they will stand up for that long I would definitely use them.

Just this FAA A&P mechanic who tinkers on other mechanical things opinion. Take it with a grain of salt.

 

[rentalguy1]

I've recently changed my oil with Valvoline Syn Power 5-20 with a K&N filter and have notice a difference in that the valve tick is gone . I usually use Valvoline or Castrol but always used Fram TG filter or their ultra filter ... I thinking filter was the difference , Can this be the case ????

Just thinking out loud here, but maybe the higher flow of the K&N filter slightly reduced the oil pressure, by just enough, to get rid of the tick. I don't know the actual answer, but that may be a possibility.

 

[Burla]

rentalguy1 there is nothing wrong with Amsoil -great stuff, but the group 4 Signature Series is the best in their lineup. SS is worth the extra money, it will immediately double your drain interval and protect your engine better the entire time and protect it way better on long trips when group 3 oils loose viscosity.