Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 254 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 344 11.4%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 427 14.2%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 174 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 1,075 35.7%
  • Other

    Votes: 736 24.5%

  • Total voters
    3,010

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DublDee

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HEMI 5.7
Wow, I was stuck on which oil to switch my Hemi over too before I read this thread, but now I'm convinced! I'm going with Redline...Thanks Burla!

Unfortunately the closest dealer to me is about 150 miles away, but that doesn't concern me too much....The wife will likely be up for the trip if there's shopping involved. Lol
 

DublDee

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Hey Burla, I have a question. On this link you provided http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf it shows the wear on the bearing after they do the tests, and it appears that they are disappointed with the results of the Redline oil, as there is quite a large scar on the test bearing. Looking at the tests of the other brands it appears that the Royal Purple faired out the best, and the big surprise was the Valvoline Dura blend. So my question is...with these results, why is Redline still your choice of oil? Just curious, and I know you have the right answer which is why I'm asking, as you seem to be one of the more knowledgeable guys, when it comes to lubricants.
 

RamHemi5.7

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Gilroy Ca
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Hemi 5.7 8 Speed
Wow, I was stuck on which oil to switch my Hemi over too before I read this thread, but now I'm convinced! I'm going with Redline...Thanks Burla!

Unfortunately the closest dealer to me is about 150 miles away, but that doesn't concern me too much....The wife will likely be up for the trip if there's shopping involved. Lol

summit racing sells redline..order 100 bucks worth of stuff ya get free shipping..no need to drive 150 miles to go get it. :) unless ya like driving. i like driving. lol
 

Burla

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DublDee I always question every test source, and those bearing tests are useful if done correctly but if you are around oil circles you would know they are extremely biased and that kind of wear is not the nature of wear in your engine. falex is an independent lab and has no chip in the game, and their marquee test shows redline is the only oil in amsoil's own sponsored test to have the best friction properties under pressure and load, and it isn't even a close call. Maybe it's their gear oil I can't even remember. But all their oil is the same, high Moly and group 5.

I "tried" Redline because I was doing some research on my hemi tick and came up with the only thing I could think of that might quiet it- molybdenum. I am loyal to it because a very short time after putting it in my engine I have no tick and the engine is so quiet it doesn't sound like a Hemi, I believe thanks to redline industry leading 880PPM molybendum. But that is just my theory, I cannot tell you for sure but I can tell you my tick is gone when I put redline in. And it seams like others have experienced the same.

I'm just one guy, if you are considering any oil just check reviews and other sources. build your loyalty based on reviews and your own experience rather then any bull cr#p marketing.
 
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DAYTONA BEACH FLORIDA
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2013
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5.7 HEMI
I did my oil change yesterday. I went with Mobil1 5/20 full synthetic, and a Fram Ultra Guard filter( XG2). It took a full 7.5 qts. to the top of the fill line on the dipstick. NO Hemi tick or tock with this oil. I prefer AMSOIL , which i'll use for the next change. I plan on doing my oil changes at 7500 mile incriments. i feel comfortable with that. Dont forget to check your oil level once in a while. Whether you're using a catch can (which I am ) or not, you're still going to be using oil. Ive emptied my can twice so far ( each time around 1700 miles ), and there was approx. 3+ ounces of oil. Just something to think about. Good luck !
 

DublDee

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Burla, Thanks for the reply, I really do appreciate it. I'm asking a lot of questions, and taking your advice and researching as much as I can in hopes to make the right decision when it comes to switching my Hemi over to synthetic. I truly believe that once the oil has been switched to synthetic that a person should stick with that oil and not change brands, and for that reason I want to be totally sure and comfortable that I'm picking the right oil. With the research I have done, and the answers from knowledgeable people such as yourself, I have come to the conclusion that I'm going to use either Redline or Amsoil, and I'm leaning towards Redline. Also it seems quite apparent that I need to add an oil catch can, so I will be making that purchase asap as well.
Thanks again for your help.
 

mcamzr

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I couldn't agree with you more. But the only thing I would add is that while I believe as well to pick a brand and stick with it as I have. The issue I am having is when that said brand changes on me. I have used one brand in everything based on it being full synthetic or group 4 or 5 and now change to a group 3 and not lower the price. At that point I feel that I have to make a brand change to keep putting the same quality or better in my motors. I chose Redline based on the feedback form Burla (big thanks), this site and a snowmobile site I am on. While I believe Amsoil is a great oil I'm not a fan of how the tech dept won't tell where the base stock comes from and I'm also not a fan of the pyramid sales approach. Oh and your wife being up for a drive if there is shopping involved. Lol. At least it's not only me!
 
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Texas_Cornhusker

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So I actually found sometime to read this thread and wow, changed my life lol.. Ordered my 12qts of Redline, and an AMSoil 25k filter.
 

mcamzr

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I just changed my oil in the truck. Took out the M1 at just under 3000 miles and put in the redline 0w30 and a RP filter. And I must say at first the truck seemed to have the tick real bad and loud but I am one tank through arou d 300 miles and it seems to run the so much smoother and so quite it doesn't dound like my truck. I can really notice it by the exhaust (corsa) the idle is smooth where as before it seemed a lot more tough. Could it just be a fresh LOF, maybe but I bought I'd post it up. Redline is going in the sled for this season without a dought.
 

Burla

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I just changed my oil in the truck. Took out the M1 at just under 3000 miles and put in the redline 0w30 and a RP filter. it seems to run the so much smoother and so quite it doesn't sound like my truck.

My experience pretty much exactly, it doesn't sound like the same truck I bought, real smooth. Why 0w30 and not 5w20 or 0w20?

So I actually found sometime to read this thread and wow, changed my life lol.. Ordered my 12qts of Redline, and an AMSoil 25k filter.

I doubt it changed your life but it might just chnage your trucks.
 

mcamzr

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When I got the truck new my owners manual calls for 5w30. It's a 2005 ram 1500 non mds built in December of 04. I worked at the dealer and shortly after I got it a friend I worked with got one and his called for the 5w20 I had ordered a new manual for the truck just after I got it to keep sealed up incase I sold it but just pened it up about a week ago as I am not going to sell it and that manual calls for 5w20. So I started to research it and found that 02 to 04 called for 5/30 and 05 up called for 5w20 for the mds change over to have all the 5.7 on the same oil. I thought I don't drive it much in the summer and I tow solitude it in the winter so I chose the 5w30 then for more protection. The switch to the 0w30 was based on this thread.
 

Burla

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What I would find real interesting is if because of the Moly content, that if you run a high Moly oil like Redline, if you can actually run a thicker oil. I don't know if I want to be the test rabbit because I already had a bad hemi tick, but I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea for a guy to run the thicker oil for a while. So I elect you, run that weight for a good long time it will be helpful. if you ever do get the tick, you can always go down to 5w20, but just maybe the high Moly will keep those lifters from sticking. Keep us posted, so far so good.

FYI, I have heard now of 4 guys running Redline and having amazing results. However, I have also heard a member here run it and he still has a tick. I'm not sure if his tick is oil related, maybe he will come and chime in on the symptoms. If it is tick at start up or tick when warm. All info bad or good is welcome. So hopefully some day we will have a larger pool of info on guys running it, and recommendations for other oils too. Especially oils that aren't helpful with hemi tick, dealer oil for one. I got my tick on dealer oil, so I don't know what they used but my truck don't like it.
 

mcamzr

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Well I can say this, I switched to M1 5w20 at 3000 miles and then to M1 5w30 at 6000 miles and just now to redline 0w30 at 72000 milesi have had no issues at all and no difference from the 20 to the 30 until about 71000ish miles I got a tick that I could here from 60 feet away. Now the redline 0w30 and 400 miles on the change I can't here a thing. In fact the motor is so smooth now all I can here is the fan from the front and the exhaust from the back. I can't wait to put it in my snowmobile. It's a 4stroke and right now on yamalube or the M1 the valve train sounds like a can of marbles (they all sound like this. No really all of them). There have been some reports on the sled sites about redline smoothing out the motor but not many, most people use Amsoil due to what I think is great marketing by them. So we will see. But back to the point I have not had any issues with the 5w30 and I just sent out some of the oil from the change so we will see what that says.
 

hemihustlin

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I dunno what thread we are supposed to post UOA's in, so here it goes lol

n4wegx.jpg

I bought my ram this summer, dont know what kind of oil was in it but it had a pennzoil filter, i put in valvoline synpower mopar filter ran it for 6574km then dropped and sampled (filter inspection was preformed :p ). now im on pennzoil platinum and the tick that came to life with valvoline is gone. Next summer i want to go redline with a napa platinum filter :)

I think the 20 moly is from leftover oil because VOA's of synpower show no moly. And the high sodium is part of synpower formula IIRC.
I found out TBN is not included in the base analysis its 20$ extra ( from 25$) so maybe next time :p
 

Burla

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Thanks for doing all that! Great info, and exactly what I would expect. If I was going to run a group 3 it would be pennzoil as well. If you are running group 3 and changing your oil in the 7500 range, no real need to shell out 20 bucks for tbn or tan, unless you are just curious.
 

hemihustlin

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Yeah i was just happy to see there was no abnormal amounts of wear metals and no antifreeze, water or fuel :)

So yeah i dont know if anyone here has done one recently but we should start a thread!
 

*tim*

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I'm running amsoil signature and the more the temps drop the louder the tick gets. Got me debating spending $100 on redline oil change
 

mcamzr

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I have some M1 sitting on the bench waiting for me to send it in.
 

Burla

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Yeah i was just happy to see there was no abnormal amounts of wear metals and no antifreeze, water or fuel :)

So yeah i dont know if anyone here has done one recently but we should start a thread!

Good idea, just call it the "official UOA's thread" I will put mine up when I get it but it will be another 1500 miles before I get to 5k. Post up all the results as your paper was a little hard to read. Thanks again
 
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