Synthetic Oil

[ramffml]

No need to even google. He's on page 4628 of this thread, he simply needs to start at page 1. Some light bedtime reading ought to fill in the fuzzy spots for him.

 

[JHoward]

I should have been more reserved with asking @Oilliver my questions. I did find his post amusing and probably shouldn't have. As for the reason folks and myself are here ... to learn.

 

[Oiliver]

No need to even google. He's on page 4628 of this thread, he simply needs to start at page 1. Some light bedtime reading ought to fill in the fuzzy spots for him.

I did enough reading to know who you are.

I did find his post amusing and probably shouldn't have.

No hard feelings.

 

[Burn2k12Ram]

I did enough reading to know who you are.


No hard feelings.

Not trying to be "that guy" but you will save a lot of time going through this thread starting at page 1. it will help answer the questions you have asked. Also take a look at the Blackstone UOA thread "is a sticky" and you will see what oil/s are the best for these hemi's proven time and time again. The proof is out there, just takes some light reading.

 

[Burla]

Thanks. So, you're saying that RedLine can correct, or help correct, a mechanical problem? What's saturated base oils? I couldn't find anything on that.

Can you please the difference between Amsoil 5W-20, 5W-30, 0W-40, and Red Line 5W-20, 5W-30, and 0W-40? I'd like to know why where one works, the other doesn't.

Thank you.

Mechanical problem? I say lubrication problem, and yes it does as a matter of fact, 80% of the time. This guy was correct with one caviot, he missed the mark on zddp and aw additives because hemi tick is too aggressive for aw additives, as it turns out EP additives where the trick, proven many times over. We tried zddp additives with little to no success. To date redline and lubegard biotech are the only two proven tick killers with 0w40 amsoil showing some promise. Most of the guys didnt mess with 0w40 redline, it was 5w40 that was just as good at killing tick as redline 0w30 and 5w30, once again even 5w20 kills it's share of ticks, only ticks that are more pronounced. 5w20 and 5w30 amsoil faired very poor, but not to be discouraged, most if not all brands were the same. If you have any power at amsoil, clone 5w30, 0w30, and 5w40 redline and call it hemi oil and we will all switch over and kick ass.

 

[Oiliver]

Not trying to be "that guy" but you will save a lot of time going through this thread starting at page 1. it will help answer the questions you have asked. Also take a look at the Blackstone UOA thread "is a sticky" and you will see what oil/s are the best for these hemi's proven time and time again. The proof is out there, just takes some light reading.

The goal of the exercise is to get simple, concise, and well articulated responses. That saves a lot of time and "beating oneself up" what lubricant to use, along with the "self-second-guessing" and "buyer's remorse" that comes with it. Wouldn't you agree?

In fact, it'd be a great idea to have a sticky with a sumary of the findings, either here, or in separate thread that can be locked. Whoever wants to debate the findings, if there is anything to debate, can debate them here.

 

[Yardbird]

I see another Project Farm aficionado. Because you can appreciate the excellent coffee pot cook-offs that Todd engages in, you might enjoy the following video:

Amsoil or Pennzoil, which wins Championship? Let's find out!

Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 100% synthetic motor oil competes against Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil in the oil championship finale...

www.youtube.com

This undoubtedly shows who's the undisputed king of motor oil.

I saw that one also. Good video, and good oil.

For me, I want a good oil. I don't have the need for a "perfect" oil, as there is no such thing.

I just want the timing chain, tensioners, VCTs, and cam followers to last to 100k miles, which at my rate of driving personal vehicles, I will be past 90 years oid by then.

I have read of Hemi's lasting well past 150k on quick change, no name oil, while others eat cams at under 50k with the perceived "best" oil.

With every new to me vehicle, I spend weeks researching what oil to use in it, then again the next oil change researching again, as oil companies will not leave well enough alone, and keep changing their formulas.

Heck, my son has right at 200k on a 3.7 in his Jeep. It gets oil changed when he has time, with whatever the quick change place uses. It still runs great, and doesn't use oil. Would he have been better off with Schaffer's or the other big names? I don't know. I do know he would have spent more money to reach those 200k if he did.

For me, I look for an oil which has what I am looking for in it, as best as can be found at a reasonable price, that I can obtain easily.

I grew up in the time when people used reprocessed oil to save money. It was definitely cheap to use. I never did, but dad would when the service station attendant would say he was a quart low when he checked the oil. Many have never experienced those days of full service...lol

I hope Pennzoil works out. If not, I will search out something else. I will go by sound and gas mileage.
I will sacrifice gas mileage for a quieter engine if the same weight oil of another brand will run quieter.

It's like the Magnatec I spoke of in another post. It ran much quieter than Edge. If Castrol still made it, I would use it, after I use up one more change of the Edge I still have. Heck, I would probable mix the two 50/50 until I used all the Edge in our Ford Edge 3.5.

This Pennzoil Ultra may be a one and done, who knows. I will update after I change over to it. At the current rate of travel, that may be several months before I need to change out, unless I change early just to see how it does.

Clavate, I have the 3.6, not a Hemi. I bought a 3.6 after reading about the Hemi Tick, plus needing higher octane gas.

If I had a Hemi with the tick, I would use whatever it took to quieten it down, cost and availability be danged.

Thanks for responding to my earlier post.

 

[HEMIMANN]

My BIL adds MMO to the crankcase. He loves the stuff. I think he uses it as aftershave, too!

Searching ancient memory banks, I remember a paper machine that got oxidized up in it's oil circulating system using a competitive oil (I was with Mobil then), from a local blender. Some real crap.

After consulting with Mobil Lab, we agreed the system was worth trying to rehabilitate, since a paper machine is a huge, nonstop machine with hundreds of bearings.

The recommendation was to scrub the system with a 5% solution of Mobilsol A, which was a napthenic-type solvent. We recommended they have a bunch of oil filters on hand with a differential pressure gage and valve to change filters on the fly as the plugged up on the fly.

I was pretty nervous working on a multi-million dollar, high capital machine, but it worked. We scrubbed on a July 4th schedule maintenance shutdown, and it cleaned up up nicely. Oil flow was restored and motor power draw went down greatly.

I tell this story to affirm engines are also cleaned, with the proper % of scrubber.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

somebody did have it clear their tick so they said, maybe more should try it, dunno. It cleans and thins a but, it wont be adding film or plate or anything like that.

I don't see it as a lubrication strategy, maybe an maintenance item. If all my dyi oil looks good, I don't think I'd be using a flush, but if I had signs of sludge I'd run some flush, maybe sea foam or something stronger kano labs stuff.

You missed that he also used LUCAS oil stabilizer.

SeaFoam - is basically a cleaner in the oil - add about 100 miles before oil change.

Lucas is a very thick oil.

You can try it.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I use and recommend the following:

Miracle Mistry Oil in the gas

Lubegard in the oil

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Burla]

Polls are the summaries of the collective knowledge, since lubrication is constantly changing, this is the way to do it imo.

I'm pretty sure nobody would care if you opened an amsoil only thread for your pleasure, in fact I'm sure you will get response as it is the third most used oil on the board even ahead of redline.

 

[Stefan N]

Now I understand why there may be imperfections

How Car Oil Filters are Made

https://bit.ly/2XTdKo4

www.youtube.com

 

[Burla]

Now I understand why there way be imperfections

How Car Oil Filters are Made

https://bit.ly/2XTdKo4

www.youtube.com

I love that, I like those guys. Dig the silk screening, lol.

 

[ramffml]

Now I understand why there way be imperfections

How Car Oil Filters are Made

https://bit.ly/2XTdKo4

www.youtube.com

I saw that too, on reddit the suggestion was made that this is a very small local shop and the big factories like champion most certainly do not build them like this (North America alone goes through millions of these things) and have way better quality (control).

 

[Wild one]

More important is how many fingers a year do they go through

 

[Ramerica]

0 Days Since Last Accident - Futurama GIF - Futurama Fry Sign - Discover & Share GIFs

Click to view the GIF

tenor.com

 

[Burla]

Anyone who is on bitog have a clue why some companies such as m1 is ditching the posting of all measures of viscosity except at 40, 100, and pour point? So no ccs, mrv, hths, or noack?

 

[Hemi395]

Anyone who is on bitog have a clue why some companies such as m1 is ditching the posting of all measures of viscosity except at 40, 100, and pour point? So no ccs, mrv, hths, or noack?

Wait, so they arent posting their own specs?

 

[HEMIMANN]

Nope. Many haven't for some time.
Obvious to me it allows cost reductions without getting caught.
Hell, Blackstone won't do CCS, HTHS, or NOACK, so unless another lab is found, nobody will know these critical performance measures.

 

[Hemi395]

So basically we're just supposed take their word for it that their oil is "the best".

 

[Travis8352]

Anyone who is on bitog have a clue why some companies such as m1 is ditching the posting of all measures of viscosity except at 40, 100, and pour point? So no ccs, mrv, hths, or noack?

Not a clue. Mobil 1 FS 0w40 has every spec under the sun listed on the PDS except for noack other than that they dont tell you much anymore.

Just a side note, for ilsac gf7 NOACK tests will be run at 150C instead of 250C. MRV will be capped at 40,000 instead of 60,000 these days.