Synthetic Oil

[turkeybird56]

Well, it is the Synthetic Oil Thread, and lubrication is lubrication, so......

I bought new 2021 Softail Heritage Classic with M8 107 engine. Mine never did just clank at startup - it clanked all the time! So did gear shifts.

I'd suggest Mobil 1 V Twin + Lubegard will be close to Red Line. Since we're supposed to change engine oil annually regardless of mileage (I don't approach maximum 5k mileage for OCI), I'd say choosing either would be a good choice.

As important is changing the transmission and chain case lube. Definitely go Red Line there, since these are drive boxes that don't get contaminated by combustion blowby, therefore the OCI's are much longer. And they don't take nearly the amount of oil the engine does. There are two different oils for these boxes - RL Chaincase Oil and RL Shockproof Gear Oil. You'll be amazed how these lubes quiet down the clanking. Which means they lubricate much better.

Posted below since @HEMIMANN was talking MC's. Nothing more familiar than the Clunk of a HD V twin going into gear or the slap of an M-16 type weapon chambering a round, both highly recognizable sounds, LOL.


OK, the below is all IMHO and my experience. I am by no means a mechanic, but I can turn a wrench for things like plugs, oil, etc etc. DO as you may see fit and use whatever product you like, but read all those writeups on commercials with a grain of salt, LOL.

BE real Careful what Oil and Additives you put in the Tranny on a HD. Remember, it is a wet clutch tranny, and you could cause problems with your clutches if you put in the wrong oil, or maybe a restricter additive eat up the clutches, just saying.

What always amazed me, the HD shop always just threw in the same oil in the trans and the engine, the same HD slush. I always for years have used Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for both. On my Honda, the Trans is totally integrated, and not separate with Trans so U best know what U are putting in there that is 100% compatible for both the trans and the engine.

I ran Mobil 1 for my V Twin and Used either Redline V Twin or Am soil V Twin Tranny Oil, whatever I could find. Pic below oil ref left side Honda Motor right Side HD Engine. Before the haters get on here, THIS is what I run on my Honda Gold Wing and What I used to run when I had my 08 HD Ultra Classic with 96 Motor. Not only do I have to go high end for the motor but also heat, because it can get over 100 degrees and stay there here. And nothing hotter than Air blowing off an air cooled motor at 100 degrees or off of my block 6 cylinder Honda Motor.


Left side what goes in my Honda and right side what went in HD.






On the right (white) is my old 08 HD Ultra Classic, which I traded up/down for my 06 Honda Wing.

 

[Burla]

Synthetic Oil

Man, it happens with most things now it happens with dominoes pizza, they sent me an email of hot deals with the Caveat California pricing higher statement, lol. Indeed when you first click the deal soon as the software recognizes you the prices change. What's next the big Mac? Every company...

www.ramforum.com

nice thanks for that, 15% bitog15 in savings code box.

 

[Oiliver]

Let's start the week fresh and in good spirits. I like to think of RamForum as an inclusive place where everyone is welcome and treated equally, with respect and dignity.

Therefore, I hope we can all get along and learn from each other... @Burla & @HEMIMANN

And maybe I can bring at least a smile to your faces with this video:

How To Channel Your Road Rage Into Cold, Calculating Road Revenge

Subscribe to The Onion on YouTube: http://bit.ly/xzrBUADefensive driving instructor Danny Preston says the best way to avoid conflict on the road is to execu...

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[HEMIMANN]

@turkeybird56 - yep, Harley got 3 different gear boxes, likely because V Twin design has always been strokey for torque (undersquare engine), so no room for oil pan under engine. Each oil is different - engine is obvious, but manual transmission differs from wet clutch in terms of friction and loads.

Gear box is heavily loaded, but still bevel gears so no GL-5 EP additives can be used. I put in Red Line Shock Proof Gear Oil (an API GL-4 grade) that has a bunch of non corrosive EP additives. It looks like Pepto Bismol!

Clutch and chain case gets more like a transmission oil, with friction modifier additives for clutch plates. I used Red Line Chain Case Oil.

Japanese bikes all made short stroke oversquare high rpm w*h*i*z motors, torque peak is way up in rpm. I owned one, hated it. I'm not looking to race on public roadways. Harley is perfect. So, Japanese bikes all have integrated oil pan, using same oil for transmission gears and clutch. The one-size-fits-all oil isn't ideal, just convenient. It has clutch friction modifier additive the engine and gears don't need, and EP additive the clutch and engine don't need.

My boy has a Japanese bike, he uses Mobil 1 V Twin 20W-50. It's an air-cooled Yamaha 1100 V Star. I also use that in my small air cooled 4 stroke engines (Briggs & Stratton, etc.).

 

[Ludville1]

Posted below since @HEMIMANN was talking MC's. Nothing more familiar than the Clunk of a HD V twin going into gear or the slap of an M-16 type weapon chambering a round, both highly recognizable sounds, LOL.


OK, the below is all IMHO and my experience. I am by no means a mechanic, but I can turn a wrench for things like plugs, oil, etc etc. DO as you may see fit and use whatever product you like, but read all those writeups on commercials with a grain of salt, LOL.

BE real Careful what Oil and Additives you put in the Tranny on a HD. Remember, it is a wet clutch tranny, and you could cause problems with your clutches if you put in the wrong oil, or maybe a restricter additive eat up the clutches, just saying.

What always amazed me, the HD shop always just threw in the same oil in the trans and the engine, the same HD slush. I always for years have used Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for both. On my Honda, the Trans is totally integrated, and not separate with Trans so U best know what U are putting in there that is 100% compatible for both the trans and the engine.

I ran Mobil 1 for my V Twin and Used either Redline V Twin or Am soil V Twin Tranny Oil, whatever I could find. Pic below oil ref left side Honda Motor right Side HD Engine. Before the haters get on here, THIS is what I run on my Honda Gold Wing and What I used to run when I had my 08 HD Ultra Classic with 96 Motor. Not only do I have to go high end for the motor but also heat, because it can get over 100 degrees and stay there here. And nothing hotter than Air blowing off an air cooled motor at 100 degrees or off of my block 6 cylinder Honda Motor.

View attachment 509295
Left side what goes in my Honda and right side what went in HD.

View attachment 509301


View attachment 509302

On the right (white) is my old 08 HD Ultra Classic, which I traded up/down for my 06 Honda Wing.

Exactly what I used in my 2016 HD Lowrider 103 HO. Mobil1 V-Twin in the engine, Mobil1 4T in the primary, and Mobil1 Full Synthetic gear lube in the transmission. In my 2003 Suzuki Hayabusa, Mobil1 4T (engine, clutch, and trans. are common in these bikes). No problems ever.

 

[turkeybird56]

@turkeybird56 - yep, Harley got 3 different gear boxes, likely because V Twin design has always been strokey for torque (undersquare engine), so no room for oil pan under engine. Each oil is different - engine is obvious, but manual transmission differs from wet clutch in terms of friction and loads.

Gear box is heavily loaded, but still bevel gears so no GL-5 EP additives can be used. I put in Red Line Shock Proof Gear Oil (an API GL-4 grade) that has a bunch of non corrosive EP additives. It looks like Pepto Bismol!

Clutch and chain case gets more like a transmission oil, with friction modifier additives for clutch plates. I used Red Line Chain Case Oil.

Japanese bikes all made short stroke oversquare high rpm w*h*i*z motors, torque peak is way up in rpm. I owned one, hated it. I'm not looking to race on public roadways. Harley is perfect. So, Japanese bikes all have integrated oil pan, using same oil for transmission gears and clutch. The one-size-fits-all oil isn't ideal, just convenient. It has clutch friction modifier additive the engine and gears don't need, and EP additive the clutch and engine don't need.

My boy has a Japanese bike, he uses Mobil 1 V Twin 20W-50. It's an air-cooled Yamaha 1100 V Star. I also use that in my small air cooled 4 stroke engines (Briggs & Stratton, etc.).

I had an 82 Yamaha 650 Maxim 4 cylinder shaft drive. Nice bike, not enough power for 2 up, and was made more to conform to the 55 mph stuff, lol. I had it shipped to Germany while I was there and spent a lot of time in the far right lane, hee hee. My GL 1800 lil different, made for cruising, especially being triked. It is an older 2006, so only 5 speed. Wish it had a more major OD 6th gear, which they now have, but now after 2018 most of them are Auto DTC stuff, and I do not have the 54K to get it, LOL. I definitely stick with the Mobil 1 AT4 oil, heck of a lot better than the stock OEM 10-30 oil. Of course, I stay full synthetic with a good XP Wix filter, not OEM Honda, LOL. Just a mother to lay on ground to change oil, since I have no way to get it in air, 2200 lbs., LOL.

My biggest complaint on the HD, was 3 separate oil changes and oils, but if U run/get an HD that be what U got. I have never been on the new Milwaukee 8 motors, so have no idea on how those 103's run, and how efficient the "cooled" exhaust area's R. I also run Kawasaki Ice for my radiators, a lot better than stock fluid also.

But alas: me thinks we hijacked the thread, hee hee.

RAM: All owners IMHO should run/use Good Quality Full Synthetic Oil in their Motors and Full Synthetic media Filters, but that is my opinion, but I do run 5 W 20 PUP and 100% Fram currently. Next summer, gonna switch to 5 W 30 for the summer, due to heat.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Exactly what I used in my 2016 HD Lowrider 103 HO. Mobil1 V-Twin in the engine, Mobil1 4T in the primary, and Mobil1 Full Synthetic gear lube in the transmission. In my 2003 Suzuki Hayabusa, Mobil1 4T (engine, clutch, and trans. are common in these bikes). No problems ever.

Uh, Mobil 1 full synthetic gear lube is a GL-5 with corrosive EP additives. Not for Harley transmissions. You're lucky your tranny held together.

 

[JHoward]

@turkeybird56 - yep, Harley got 3 different gear boxes, likely because V Twin design has always been strokey for torque (undersquare engine), so no room for oil pan under engine. Each oil is different - engine is obvious, but manual transmission differs from wet clutch in terms of friction and loads.

Gear box is heavily loaded, but still bevel gears so no GL-5 EP additives can be used. I put in Red Line Shock Proof Gear Oil (an API GL-4 grade) that has a bunch of non corrosive EP additives. It looks like Pepto Bismol!

Clutch and chain case gets more like a transmission oil, with friction modifier additives for clutch plates. I used Red Line Chain Case Oil.

Japanese bikes all made short stroke oversquare high rpm w*h*i*z motors, torque peak is way up in rpm. I owned one, hated it. I'm not looking to race on public roadways. Harley is perfect. So, Japanese bikes all have integrated oil pan, using same oil for transmission gears and clutch. The one-size-fits-all oil isn't ideal, just convenient. It has clutch friction modifier additive the engine and gears don't need, and EP additive the clutch and engine don't need.

My boy has a Japanese bike, he uses Mobil 1 V Twin 20W-50. It's an air-cooled Yamaha 1100 V Star. I also use that in my small air cooled 4 stroke engines (Briggs & Stratton, etc.).

If Red Line quieted down your Harley machine, then I'll most definitely look into changing my HD over to Red Line oil. Mine is ok on the Mobile 1 20w/50, but maybe it's time to try something else that's better.

 

[HEMIMANN]

If Red Line quieted down your Harley machine, then I'll most definitely look into changing my HD over to Red Line oil. Mine is ok on the Mobile 1 20w/50, but maybe it's time to try something else that's better.

If you're not a member of a Harley Forum, sign up and you'll see a Red Line fanboy club, but not without reason. The $hit works - since Ram Hemi Forum members dug so deeply into this to minimize lifter ticking and cam failures, it stands to reason the same increased anti-wear additives and base stock of Red Line quiets down Harley - the moly plating of clanking parts, along with the ultra-high temperature resistance makes Red Line perfect for our high-loaded, hot-running Harleys! A bonus plus is very low evaporation (low NOACK) which is a huge benefit for minimizing the big thumper breather oil mist!

 

[HEMIMANN]

I had an 82 Yamaha 650 Maxim 4 cylinder shaft drive. Nice bike, not enough power for 2 up, and was made more to conform to the 55 mph stuff, lol. I had it shipped to Germany while I was there and spent a lot of time in the far right lane, hee hee. My GL 1800 lil different, made for cruising, especially being triked. It is an older 2006, so only 5 speed. Wish it had a more major OD 6th gear, which they now have, but now after 2018 most of them are Auto DTC stuff, and I do not have the 54K to get it, LOL. I definitely stick with the Mobil 1 AT4 oil, heck of a lot better than the stock OEM 10-30 oil. Of course, I stay full synthetic with a good XP Wix filter, not OEM Honda, LOL. Just a mother to lay on ground to change oil, since I have no way to get it in air, 2200 lbs., LOL.

My biggest complaint on the HD, was 3 separate oil changes and oils, but if U run/get an HD that be what U got. I have never been on the new Milwaukee 8 motors, so have no idea on how those 103's run, and how efficient the "cooled" exhaust area's R. I also run Kawasaki Ice for my radiators, a lot better than stock fluid also.

But alas: me thinks we hijacked the thread, hee hee.

RAM: All owners IMHO should run/use Good Quality Full Synthetic Oil in their Motors and Full Synthetic media Filters, but that is my opinion, but I do run 5 W 20 PUP and 100% Fram currently. Next summer, gonna switch to 5 W 30 for the summer, due to heat.

Milwaukee 8's are really great, BOIRD. They fixed damn near everything. Fuel injected, throttle by wire, torque monsters. The one thing they goofed up was too small an oil pump, which they replaced in 2020. But they didn't recall 2017-2019, leaving those 3 years out to dry. They wet sump and foam. Not very customer friendly! I love my 107, didn't offer 114 when I bought, but that's just a punched & stroked 107 with higher compression. I'm camming mine - will be beyond 114 when I done. Good for pull away and 2up.

 

[HEMIMANN]

0W-30 HPL Premium Plus Oil is $15.45 per quart, but don't forget Ram Forum Members get a site discount. I posted it earlier in this thread, maybe someone can make a sticky post with it?

$15.45 x 15% Ram Forum discount = $13.13 per quart for HPL Premium Plus! The same price that Red Line was just 6 months ago.

I highly recommend HPL Premium Plus.
Here is their authorized Distributor --> https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants
I've seen some knockoffs out there with similar naming and graphics that are obvious fakes.

 

[Burla]

Pretty disappointed again with my dewy 1/4 inch drill 20v, for the second time in as many projects did my 19.2 craftsman throw away drill accomplish what the dewy couldnt. sigh. Glad I didnt throw it out, I gave away my other drill and was gonna give this one away as well, but no way this cheap junk beats expensive dewalt. Man I hope their saw zal is better then their general drill. Now, I have great results with their 1/2 inch for torquing tires down and other heavy jobs, 100% bad bass, but their 1/4 inch lets me down time and time again. The only visable difference is a 15 point clutch versus a 22 point clutch on the craftsman, is that it? I dunno, but going through sheet metal today and I tried like 4 bits even a cement bit, then I remembered the craftsman performed better, it went right through the sheet metal like 2 seconds. Besides clutch, in general the craftsmen holds the bit tighter so it doesnt spin in the socket. Dewy POS.

 

[Travis8352]

$15.45 x 15% Ram Forum discount = $13.13 per quart for HPL Premium Plus! The same price that Red Line was just 6 months ago.

I highly recommend HPL Premium Plus.
Here is their authorized Distributor --> https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants
I've seen some knockoffs out there with similar naming and graphics that are obvious fakes.

HPL is made by high performance lubricants. Its not a knock off its just a different line of products made for precision turbo. It is confusing but its not a knock off. Also not even close to the same product

 

[HEMIMANN]

HPL is made by high performance lubricants. Its not a knock off its just a different line of products made for precision turbo. It is confusing but its not a knock off. Also not even close to the same product

??? I talked to HPL. I got the sole authorized distributor name from him. I'm referring to some of the other yahoos on Amazon we discussed a while ago. If you look at the product pictures on their distributor site link above, you see both HPL logo and High Performance Lubricants spelled out on the labels.

 

[Burla]

That 0w30 HPL is just a winner oil all the way around, like all of their products. PDF on viscosities, pour points and hths and other viscosities. 100 dollars for 6, even with 15% off still a couple more dollars then 83 dollars for 6 redline amazon, but basically a wash.

 

[Ramerica]

Do we know the moly level on the euro formula?

 

[Travis8352]

??? I talked to HPL. I got the sole authorized distributor name from him. I'm referring to some of the other yahoos on Amazon we discussed a while ago. If you look at the product pictures on their distributor site link above, you see both HPL logo and High Performance Lubricants spelled out on the labels.

HPL Oil - Superior Lubricants Made in the USA, located in Hebron, IN

Explore the dynamics of HPL Superior Lubricants. See the background, diversity, results and future of our high performance lubricants line. Located in Northwest Indiana and we have distributors all over the world, plus can ship anywhere!

www.hploil.com

This is also made by high performance lubricants. Heres a VOA and spec sheet as well as photo of the label. Its not the same oil but made by same company for precision turbo. I thought you were referring to this label as a knock off

 

[Travis8352]

Do we know the moly level on the euro formula?

IIRC its around 375 ppm but the euro and supercar oil contain more zddp than the PCMO line FWIW

 

[JHoward]

??? I talked to HPL. I got the sole authorized distributor name from him. I'm referring to some of the other yahoos on Amazon we discussed a while ago. If you look at the product pictures on their distributor site link above, you see both HPL logo and High Performance Lubricants spelled out on the labels.

So, @Travis8352 states that these two oils, HPL and High Performance Lubricants are one and the same? And that that is what is confusing?

I've looked online and both are in Illinois.

Anyway, this synthetic oil may be even better for the finicky HEMI.

 

[Travis8352]

So, @Travis8352 states that these two oils, HPL and High Performance Lubricants are one and the same? And that that is what is confusing?

I've looked online and both are in Illinois.

Anyway, this synthetic oil may be even better for the finicky HEMI.

They are made by the same company but are most definately not the same oil.