Synthetic Oil

[audio1der]

In case you guys missed it from other oil thread. Just an additional oil product you can use if you want less friction on your engine. I been using BG MOA for a while now even though I run synthetic. Sometimes I add it to the fill, and other times I add it towards the end of an oil change. It refreshes your additive package by increasing the molly and I believe it is a friction modifier and cleaner.

BG MOA makes bearing seize proof

MOA treated engine running when dropping the oil pan

Did Slick 50 re-brand itself??

 

[Burla]

Did Slick 50 re-brand itself??

MOA is the un additive additive, Only what your engine needs and no junk, a Virgin BG MOA analysis read like this. Do a search and find out for yourself. All the best oils have the same thing in their additive package. Just trying to spread some knowledge bud.

CALCIUM 11390
MAGNESIUM 50
PHOSPHORUS 1323
ZINC 1429
MOLYBDENUM 120

 

[SirScottland]

Man I can't find any of the good oils you guys are talking about where I live... All I see is Mobil 1 and Castrol.

 

[Burla]

You can buy Amsoil and Redline directly from the manufacturer, you wont find them at Kmart. It is about 4 dollars more per quart for group 4 or 5 oil. However, I always get mine off Ebay or Amazon cause I like using pay pal.

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil

 

[Burla]

I was trying to find a image that showed the difference between synthetic and conventional oil, this was the best I could find at the moment but there are better ones out there. For you guys running Mobil One your oil looks like the oil coming from the conventional side. Again, Mobil 1 is very high quality oil because of the filtering process and the additive package, but bottom line is it has a petroleum base or in other words uneven oil molecules versus what you would see in group 4 or 5 oils.

engine wear and oil pressure



.

 

[junior81]

due for my first oil change bout to get some RP. any suggestions on the filter?

 

[SilsHemi]

due for my first oil change bout to get some RP. any suggestions on the filter?

I run RP and an RP oil filter. RP oil filter isn't cheap, but it's built well and can be used for extended OCIs. Inside The Royal Purple Synthetic Oil Filter Video V8TV - YouTube

 

[*tim*]

I just bought a new hemi. In my chevys I've always done my first oil change at 5k mi and gone with mobile 1. When do you dodge guys do your first oil change and when do you switch to synthetic

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Burla]

I just bought a new hemi. In my chevys I've always done my first oil change at 5k mi and gone with mobile 1. When do you dodge guys do your first oil change and when do you switch to synthetic

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

I like to change mine after 1000 miles and use a Engine Oil Break-In Additive. Break in oils generally have additional elements like ZDDP that help smooth sharp edges between metal surfaces, and I believe those need about 1500 miles to be effective and then you can change them out. It also helps seat your pistons. Redline has one of the most respected break in oil additives around. You don't want to run a lot of ZDDP because it can harm your cat overtime, but generally speaking there is zero risk to running it for a short break in period. I would only use a break in additive during break in, but some people run it all the time, great for your engine not so great for your exhaust. It is more important then ever because oil manufacturers are moving away from ZDDP because of it's toxicity and harshness on your cat, so there is less ZDDP in modern oils then a while back when everybody had it. Once your pistons are set and sharp edges are smooth, ZDDP is less important.

A lot of people don't use them, but if you are concerned about that, then a break in oil and a quick change would be the way to go in my opinion.

Because synthetics have such good protection from metal shearing, it is a good idea to run conventional oil for the first couple oils changes. You actually want a little wear in the beginning of a break in, but after that then you want the additional wear to come as little as possible. Hope that helps. Many manufacturers now run Mobil 1 right out of the gate. Less of an issue because Mobil 1 really isn't a synthetic base. But the fact is there is so much benefit to running synthetic that many high end car's warranty are conditional on the fact the owners has to use synthetic oil.

Anyway, many people think break in periods aren't necessary anymore and I don't have any proof that they are, but I am old school and think it is a good idea.

 

[smiley]

They are broke in before they go into the vehicle. Good to go off the lot.


$miley

 

[dsw1519]

I'm a bit old school too. 1st oil change for me is always 1500 miles, then synthetic. I've done the same thing will all of my motorcycles, including every Harley I've bought new.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Burla]

They are broke in before they go into the vehicle. Good to go off the lot.


$miley

They are machined better then the old engines for sure, so your point is a good one. And to add one thing, if you plan on using a break in additive you need to from day one, because if you already have 500 miles, it is already broke in.

Bottom line is an engine is a marriage of a bunch of metal pieces that have never been together before, and even though things are better then the old days, you have to assume it is all going to go together as planned. I'm just not that optimistic, and there is no downside to breaking in a engine the old school way except a couple dollars out of your wallet.

 

[*tim*]

Chevy always said to leave what was in it for 5000mi then switch to synthetic and change every 7500mi

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

 

[SirScottland]

What about Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Burla]

What about Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Group III.

 

[smiley]

Group III.

Funny part is on Valvoline synpower they say they use group 3 and 4 base stocks but how the heck do we know how much of each my guess is mostly 3 to cut costs. Amsoil is group 4 and Redline is 4 and 5 I believe is that correct?


$miley

 

[Burla]

Redline is 4 and 5 I believe is that correct?

I've never heard of Redline having PAO's in there oil, they have a Polyol Ester base stock which makes then solely group 5. I would be disappointing to hear different. Don't know what the additional additive package is, I just know my truck likes it.

 

[mjm]

The importance of using good-quality oil in an engine cannot be overstated. AMSOIL synthetic motor oils consistently outperform conventional and other synthetic oils in virtually every category of performance, including wear protection, extreme high- and low-temperature performance, foam control, viscosity retention, rust and corrosion protection, volatility and fuel economy. While other brands may provide good performance in some of these areas, AMSOIL synthetic motor oils consistently perform at the top in every category. Drivers can have confidence knowing that AMSOIL synthetic motor oils provide maximum performance and protection.
Every new engine I change out at 1500-3000 then run AMSOIL. Amsoil is the only Synthetic motor oil in the industy with a "Guaranteed" 25,000 mile / 1yr drain interval.

 

[jleach76]

Yea, I'm leaning to RP. But RP is also more expensive than the others. But it's also PURPLE!!!!

Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk 2

I am an Independent Dealer for Amsoil. I run it in everything I have.

 

[*tim*]

Anyone know the difference between amsoil oe synthetic line and their signature synthetic seriers

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2