Thinking I may be the next victim to broke exhaust manifold bolts….

[CanuckRam1313]

Total flow Y pipe.

Exactly.

My shop did two mild bends so as to not kink or ruin the true free flow design.
Welded the two bends together to make a full circular shape perfect U pipe.
Cut a perfect hole right at the center of the U pipe to make a perfect 2.5" circle.

Then did the pipe grind technique (excuse me as I don't know the correct term for it) on a straight piece of 2.5" ss pipe so it perfectly fit over the cut hole, and then welded it sealed (like they do to fit custom roll cage pieces together).

They pressure tested it to make sure it was perfectly sealed. Then I asked for a flanged end that connects my Magnaflow cat back system to the new y-pipe.

Then welded up the new y-pipe to the cut ends of the cats, tested it running, and voila... awesome custom y-pipe with full flow and zero restrictions.

 

[HeloBravo]

The other day after remote starting my truck and then right before getting in it to go to work I heard that dreaded tat tat…………..tat tat………tat tat tat…………………….tat tat sound so I’m assuming I’m the next one chosen to have the broken exhaust manifold bolts, ya think? Being that I haven’t officially ever heard the dreaded Hemi tick, I’m not really sure what that sounds like exactly but being that I’m pretty sure the 2008 I had before this truck had that same problem for about the last year and a half I owned it, this is making pretty much the same kind of sound. I haven’t verified yet that it only does this once it warms up but I’m almost pretty sure if this is what it is so I guess one of these days I get to make this repair number two under my lifetime warranty so at least I’ve got that. I’d really like to just put actual headers on it and possibly never have this problem again but I do have warranty and I don’t have the money to get headers right now so I guess this is what I’m gonna do.

I just did mine on a 2018. Pretty easy. Needed a 90degree drill, left handed bits and an easy out.
You do not need to remove the dipstick tube, it can be pulled out of the way. The drivers side manifold doesn’t need to come all the way out. You can move it back and forth and roll it a bit to work around it. Going to the trouble to remove it would’ve just made the job longer for no appreciable benefit.

 

[Bandit1859]

The other day after remote starting my truck and then right before getting in it to go to work I heard that dreaded tat tat…………..tat tat………tat tat tat…………………….tat tat sound so I’m assuming I’m the next one chosen to have the broken exhaust manifold bolts, ya think? Being that I haven’t officially ever heard the dreaded Hemi tick, I’m not really sure what that sounds like exactly but being that I’m pretty sure the 2008 I had before this truck had that same problem for about the last year and a half I owned it, this is making pretty much the same kind of sound. I haven’t verified yet that it only does this once it warms up but I’m almost pretty sure if this is what it is so I guess one of these days I get to make this repair number two under my lifetime warranty so at least I’ve got that. I’d really like to just put actual headers on it and possibly never have this problem again but I do have warranty and I don’t have the money to get headers right now so I guess this is what I’m gonna do.

My 2019 made it 30000 miles dealer replaced bolts and manifolds both are aluminum no more issues

 

[Wild one]

You are missing the point, by a mile. The manifolds were junk to begin with. They warp, and the tension snaps the front and rear bolts. The manifolds can be machined flat, since they are now heat-stressed, OR replace them with good manifolds that are used, true and not cracked. Use the Remflex gaskets. Get the Dorman hardware kit. No-one would install new OEM manifolds......as they are destined to warp at so pont.

Once the manifolds are off, the only proper method for removing the snapped bolts is with a drill guide plate that bolts up in place of the manifold. The studs are drilled out, all threads chased and blown out, and then the new hardware, Remflexs, and good manifolds go back on.

My mechanic did the entire job for a grand, and he took 3 days.

Nut and washer welded to the broken stud is a better way of doing it.The weld doesn't stick to aluminium,and no chance of drilling a hole into the water jacket

 

[G-Ride990]

Don't drill them, I have seen so many threads and comments of guys drilling into water jackets it scares me. Just weld them up and twist them out.

The heat alone seems to break the bond and lets them release quite easily.

+1 on the remflex gaskets too.

My tick started at around 41k miles fwiw

 

[Shawn Burns]

Don't drill them, I have seen so many threads and comments of guys drilling into water jackets it scares me. Just weld them up and twist them out.

The heat alone seems to break the bond and lets them release quite easily.

+1 on the remflex gaskets too.

My tick started at around 41k miles fwiw

Unless the break is below the surface. Two of my broken bolts were below the surface, only one could have used the welding trick. I bought the extraction kit and then re-sold it after the job was done for $10 less than I paid for it.

I also went with the shorty headers and a custom Y-pipe. I had mine collected after the transmission pan, so transmission fluid changes are easier with my PPE pan.

 

[Wild one]

Unless the break is below the surface. Two of my broken bolts were below the surface, only one could have used the welding trick. I bought the extraction kit and then re-sold it after the job was done for $10 less than I paid for it.

I also went with the shorty headers and a custom Y-pipe. I had mine collected after the transmission pan, so transmission fluid changes are easier with my PPE pan.

Most times if they do break below the surface,it's generally a very shallow break,and a good welder can still weld a washer and nut to the broken stud.But if they're out and you have no coolant leaks,that's all that matters.Glad you got them out

 

[IDSandman]

My 2019 made it 30000 miles dealer replaced bolts and manifolds both are aluminum no more issues

They used aluminum exhaust manifolds?

 

[Shawn Burns]

Most times if they do break below the surface,it's generally a very shallow break,and a good welder can still weld a washer and nut to the broken stud.But if they're out and you have no coolant leaks,that's all that matters.Glad you got them out

a good welder is the important part of that sentence. Neither me or my buddy assistant during that job could ever claim that title!

 

[Shawn Burns]

They used aluminum exhaust manifolds?

I wondered this too? I'd like more information on this.

 

[CamperMike]

I wondered this too? I'd like more information on this.

Aluminum cylinder head is what they are talking about. The manifold will be removed already when you are trying to extract bolts.

 

[Dusty]

Probably a cranial slip. Every factory 5.7 exhaust manifold I've ever seen is cast iron.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 92855 miles.

 

[Justthebutler]

UUGHH. This literally just happened to me on the weekend. I Just rolled over 100K ~ 62,000miles. Got to my cabin, heard an unusual bang or ding of metal under the truck I thought it was the dog banging his head; But when I got up in the morning and started the truck.....tick tick tick tick. FML lol

The info in these forums is priceless. I will have to inspect it and see where I'm at, but at least now I have an idea of where to look.

Thanks guys!