Timing Chain Issue

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Daw14

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That is your axle vent tube , you want the end up as high as you can get it, so no water can enter.
 
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Goliat6288

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That is your axle vent tube , you want the end up as high as you can get it, so no water can enter.
so that really doesnt connect to anything?

thought it did because of the plastic piece inside of it like it broke off
 

kevkev

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Axle vent tube has nothing to do with no fuel. Id check the fuel pump fuse and then wiring to the fuel pump. Then replug everything in. Then go for fuel pump.
 
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Goliat6288

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thanks for the advice.

the fuse is good i checked that yesterday. im guessing by wiring check to see if there is power on the plug on the pump itself?
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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On your compression test you did a dry test now do what is called a wet test, do you have a oils squirt gun give pump 4-5 pumps into the cylinder do you have all the plugs out that will let the engine spin freely you should get higher reading if you get a higher reading on your lowest cyl that will indicate you have a bad compression ring or rings, and you may have a TIPM problem that will effect your fuel pump relay, when you cycle the ignition switch you should hear the fuel pump cycle.

Give these guys a call for your TIPM.


TIPM Fuel Relay Solutions | Vertical Visions
 

Daw14

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Axle vent tube has nothing to do with no fuel. Id check the fuel pump fuse and then wiring to the fuel pump. Then replug everything in. Then go for fuel pump.
I try to read the entire post. READ IT ALL.
 
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Goliat6288

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ok so finally got the engine started. timing chain (not sure if it ever needed it), battery (completely dead and too small for the car), fuel pump, and injectors.

still have to install the cats. also needs a brake job. moved her back and forth and it barely stopped while standing on the stiff as hell pedal.

thanks for the help everyone
 

EdGs

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ok so finally got the engine started. timing chain (not sure if it ever needed it), battery (completely dead and too small for the car), fuel pump, and injectors.

still have to install the cats. also needs a brake job. moved her back and forth and it barely stopped while standing on the stiff as hell pedal.

thanks for the help everyone

That's fantastic! You have some stuff still to do, but sounds like you are on the downhill now.
 
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Goliat6288

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after un sticking all the brake components and changing the glides rubbers pieces on the calipers the brake issue is no more. it does need brakes, rotors and calipers but ill hold off on doing it for a bit. power steering was none existent but that was due to low fluid. now i have to wait for next week for a shop to install the Y pipe since i dont have enough clearance with jack and stands to install it.
 
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Goliat6288

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ok i finally got her up and running fully. had i a nice 30 min trip and then back. only issue was at hot start it crank longer to start.

today however..... 47 min drive to work and back.
after working for about 3 hours went to turn on the truck and it took longer to turn on but eventually turned on, AND all the everything on my instrument cluster died. odometer screen said "no bus". decided to turn it off and back. started back up but with CEL on. didn't notice an issue till i hit a steep hill. she was struggling to go up, so i pressed accelerator and it down shifted to I'm guessing first gear, way too much engine noise and no speed. let off and it upshifted but still struggled. didn't think much of it and kept going. then on another hill i noticed it wouldn't go over 3k rpm, I'm guessing limp home mode in second gear. got home and the code was U0155. I've read that the combo of that code and the limp home mode means its the PCM needing changed. however haven't found much on it.

can anyone point me in the right direction?
 

LoneWolf3574

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U0155 DODGE Code - Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

Everything indicates as you stated with the cluster. Before you buy a new PCM and start cussing because it didn't fix anything, you need to do a visual inspection of the wiring harness to the cluster and the connectors. Look for anything out of the ordinary, bent, broken, pushed out, or corroded connector pins and damaged components.

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/u0155_dodge.html
 
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Goliat6288

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yup ill be doing that soon but didnt have a long enough T20 to take off the steering cover to slide the dash out.

how ever i did get the codes from the dashboards self check. im hoping someone knows what they mean

C Code
26 62
A5 06
AA 06
Ab 06
AC 06
Ad 06
AE 06
00 00

and the only info ive found on it so far is a comment on another forum

"Assuming there were no other faults codes found on your scan tool besides the U0155 you can rule out your PCM. The engine keeps running and the transmission doesn’t drop into a second gear limp in so rule out the PCM. The problem is most likely in the instrument cluster. The codes it recorded AA/PCM message not received, AB TCM msg. not rec, AC ABS msg. not rec., AD FCM msg. not rec., AE ACM msg. not rec. The fact that the cluster captured and stored all of these faults indicate that it probably had 12+ volt and a good ground. All of the other modules must be communicating with each other fine or you would have an overall PCI BUS failure fault (lots of crazy problems and a ton of issues if this happened). This points to problem in the instrument cluster processor or the single WH/VT wire or connector that I mentioned in my 1st post. If the problem continues to happen you can order an exchange cluster at your dealerships parts dept."

unfortunately the OP on that thread doesnt have the A5 codes they have a A9 code
 
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Goliat6288

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took the dash apart and took the instrument cluster out. all wires are fine. even looked under while the cluster was out to follow the wires and all looks good. not sure if i should unplug both plugs from the IC and plug them back in.

however it has done the IC issue again.

the hot starting issue is still on going. also got an evap leak code - large leak, P0455 i believe it was. replaced the purge valve and it seems to be doing a little better but not fully cured. getting a new gas cap to see if maybe its that though it seems like a long shot.

i did however notice a strong fuel smell when starting outside the vehicle. for example if i start it with the door opened or the windows opened i smell fuel.
 
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Goliat6288

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i fixed the evap leak, fuel pump tabs rotted off and werent holding the pump down completely. fixed that with self taps, washers and some seal-all on the threads.

however the starting issue continues. and its time to be more specific with it.
cold start are not an issue. even hot starts arent an issue if its been less than 45 min since i turned it off. for some reason if its an hour or more, engine is hot but its had time to cool down a little, it does the long cranking before starting.

i thought it was a fuel pressure issue even with the new fuel pump in it. so tested pressure on the shrader valve. cold start pressure the gauge jumps between 50 and 60 psi. hot starts after about an hour of sitting the gauge jumps from 40 to 70 psi. however this was done before i fixed the evap leak so i will be redoing the hot start one.

please let me know if anyone has a clue as to where to look next, though i have found varies post where they have this issue for years without being able to pin point it the culprit
 
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Goliat6288

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decided to drive the ram today for work. a good 162 mile drive. she drives under powered and when going up a hill she struggles. whenever the rpms go over 3500 i start getting random misfires, blinking CEL and then solid with random misfire code.

ive read it could be fuel related as well.

not sure if this piece of the puzzle could give anyone an idea of where i should looking
 
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Goliat6288

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More Codes!!!!!! yay

P0171
P0172
P0174
P0175

too lean and too rich on bank 1 and bank 2. However after clearing them and driving some more only the too lean on both banks came back. so i will be going back to OEM replacement injectors just in case it that and go from there.

EDIT: also got a P0461. i was at fuel tank and it was reading half. it actually does this every time i fuel up. it gets stuck on half and then it crawls back up to full. once i cleared that code it went to full immediately
 
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Goliat6288

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ok so i decided to start working on the Ram again. the lean problem went away. i know i changed injectors and something else and the problem is fixed.

starting on diagnosing the hard starts again. found out that i have a delayed spark, no spark on cylinder one spark plug until it actually turns on. i know the crank and/or cam position sensor controls that, or so ive been informed, so ive changed the crank and cam position sensor. runs better but still doing it. someone suggested that maybe my valves are sticking or spark plugs have incorrect gap. for the valves the said to either run seafoam or take of the valve cover to see if they move when cranking. i may go the seafoam route after i check the spark plugs.

anybody have any other ideas on what the hard start and random misfire under load (by under load i mean going up a long hill) would be?
 
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Goliat6288

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almost forgot, also found oil on my air filter, right above where the vacuum coming from both valve covers connects to. not sure how or why.

look exactly like in this thread
 
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Goliat6288

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hey everyone. high jacking my own thread beacuse i need help with some info lol

Ive pin pointed that i have three leaking injectors. last time i was in there i replaced the seal on the injectors put everything back in and messed up one of the bolts that holds down the fuel rail. ive started my search for one to get all of this fixed but apparently i cant find one. dealer says it was discontinued and they could help me. ive tried online searched and i get two bolt sizes that dont seem correct. this the description of the bolt on mopar website

"Oil Filler Housing Mounting. M6x1.00x27.00. Oil Fill Housing Attaching. [m10x1.50x60.00]. Fuel Rail to Cylinder Block. Housing To Cylinder Block."

any body know where i can find the bolt information? thanks in advance
 

rzr6-4

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I didn't find anything in my quick search but it should be really easy to measure with a pair of calipers. Even if your old bolt is damaged you should still be able to get a pretty good idea.
 
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