transfercase diagram

[chrisbh17]

I was thinking I need to find the stock doge connectors or ones that will fit and make this a direct mod no cutting splicing or anything needed and no footprint of it ever being there. It'd just be a mount switch pick up power and ground and done.

I like your thinking.

Is it in 8 pin connector by any chance?

Can it be taken a little further and connected completely INSIDE the truck? i.e. near and/or right behind the 4WD switch.

Also, I have a chart showing the expected resistance values of a 44-45 switch....Im curious if the 44-44 switch has an extra value (4-Auto). If that is the case, could you wire it all up so the relay is only triggered when the switch is set to 4-Lock? Essentially giving you a *real* 4WD lock, with the ability to keep 4-Auto, but now it would all be automatic (you could put a toggle switch in for override)

Electrical isn't my strong point, so essentially by hitting that toggle switch its forcing the clutches to engage and giving you constant front driveshaft engagement? Am I understanding this right?

That is my understanding. Instead of varying the voltage and/or resistance, this setup gives a constant voltage and/or resistance, "fooling" the encoder to keep the clutch fully engaged. As far as heat or durability being an issue....my take on clutches is that friction (and consequently heat) is generated as they are engaged and disengaged. Keeping them engaged, I would think, would not cause any more friction than "normal" usage. In fact it should cause less. The only thing that I could see happening is if the material they are made of cant hold up to real 4-Lock even though the button says it should

 

[Hemi395]

I like your thinking.

Is it in 8 pin connector by any chance?

Can it be taken a little further and connected completely INSIDE the truck? i.e. near and/or right behind the 4WD switch.

Also, I have a chart showing the expected resistance values of a 44-45 switch....Im curious if the 44-44 switch has an extra value (4-Auto). If that is the case, could you wire it all up so the relay is only triggered when the switch is set to 4-Lock? Essentially giving you a *real* 4WD lock, with the ability to keep 4-Auto, but now it would all be automatic (you could put a toggle switch in for override)



That is my understanding. Instead of varying the voltage and/or resistance, this setup gives a constant voltage and/or resistance, "fooling" the encoder to keep the clutch fully engaged. As far as heat or durability being an issue....my take on clutches is that friction (and consequently heat) is generated as they are engaged and disengaged. Keeping them engaged, I would think, would not cause any more friction than "normal" usage. In fact it should cause less. The only thing that I could see happening is if the material they are made of cant hold up to real 4-Lock even though the button says it should

So basically this would be used only in certain situations. You could turn the switch off and use the 4Auto like it normal but hit that switch if you got stuck in snow to force the fronts to spin with the rears?

If thats the case I want one!!

 

[Brandon-w]

Electrical isn't my strong point, so essentially by hitting that toggle switch its forcing the clutches to engage and giving you constant front driveshaft engagement? Am I understanding this right?

Yes you are. There isn't any "ramp up" for The clutches to engage the front diff. It's just flick the switch and you have full transfer. I like it.

 

[Hemi395]

Yes you are. There isn't any "ramp up" for The clutches to engage the front diff. It's just flick the switch and you have full transfer. I like it.

Me too! You should think about making a how to thread on making this. Parts needed, diagrams, etc.

 

[Brandon-w]

So basically this would be used only in certain situations. You could turn the switch off and use the 4Auto like it normal but hit that switch if you got stuck in snow to force the fronts to spin with the rears?

If thats the case I want one!!

This is exactly the case! We'll so far anyways. I can get stuck ish all tires spinning in 4 and then stop lock the switch and I can apply light throttle and climb out without too much chatter and slippage seems to be much less. Once again tho I have crappy tires on 13.5 wide basically snow shoes so it's not optimal test conditions.

 

[Brandon-w]

So basically this would be used only in certain situations. You could turn the switch off and use the 4Auto like it normal but hit that switch if you got stuck in snow to force the fronts to spin with the rears?

If thats the case I want one!!

I never looked into doing it into the cab don't really have much access to wiring diagrams or locations of modules or that stuff. It likely could Be done the simpler the better though Especially in these cases. It is an 8 pin plug. heres what the connector looks like.

 

[chrisbh17]

Essentially, this makes the transfer case a true 4-lock (well, as true as clutches could be)

It would be extra special cool if you could make the relay only kick in when the 4-Lock setting is chosen.

The connector I see:

 

[Brandon-w]

Essentially, this makes the transfer case a true 4-lock (well, as true as clutches could be)

It would be extra special cool if you could make the relay only kick in when the 4-Lock setting is chosen.

The connector I see:

View attachment 152250

That looks like the connector!! I could probly wire it in that way probly wouldn't be hard. It does make it slightly harder for the average Joe who wants to do this as an easy mod and be able to disconnect quickly so dealership doesn't clue in.

 

[Brandon-w]

Chris can you find the other connector That plugs into that one as well? Almost looks like stealership diagrams there bud. something you're not telling us? Haha!

 

[chrisbh17]

Chris can you find the other connector That plugs into that one as well? Almost looks like stealership diagrams there bud. [emoji14] something you're not telling us? Haha!

Hehe. I will look.

Its alldatadiy.com BTW. $13/yr subscription, it's basically a copy of the service manual along with parts, wiring diagrams, etc.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[Hemi395]

Yeah alldatadiy is worth every penny

 

[Brandon-w]

Oh yeah all data is all we used in the shop. Napa online can give some pretty good part pictures as well.

 

[chrisbh17]

Le Goog says this is the male connector:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/15326655?qs=xyz6lfZ1ktJB2t6d/j4RRQ==

But I noticed the female version you have to buy a large minimum of.

 

[Brandon-w]

Yepp that sure looks Like the connector! Then I'd likely have to buy pins separate on top of that. I think that's just housings and if there were quite a few interested I'd go the route of getting these even if I had to buy 25 and build these harnesses. Luckily I never had to leave home for this build, just used old junk I've saved over time.

 

[chrisbh17]

Yes, you would need the pins and maybe the sealant plug things.

https://ecat.aptiv.com/feature?search=13538370# <-- female

https://ecat.aptiv.com/feature?search=13538370# <-- male

 

[Brandon-w]

Hmm links show up blank. Takes me to. The website just doesn't show any parts.

 

[crash68]

I wonder if this kit could be modified to give you the 2WD Low and be able to "lock" the front drive clutch with the addition of a switch, relay, etc.
https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com...erential-kit-13-18-ram-hd-09-18-ram-1500.aspx

 

[Brandon-w]

The plugs would be all wrong but I could easily add a second switch and set it up in such a way you hit 4 lo and never lock the clutch it'd be 2 low unlocked Already did that today in 4 high just messing with the wiring lol. Essentially all we'd be doing is adding another circuit and two more wires except this switch would always remain on (closed circuit) until You wanted ² low then you just flick the added switch (open circuit) and clutches see no power. What would you do with 2 low though?!?

 

[chrisbh17]

Hmm links show up blank. Takes me to. The website just doesn't show any parts.

When you land on that site do a search for 13538370 and then 15326655

The 13 part number is female, 15 is male.

 

[Brandon-w]

There we go. The number was in the search bar already but they put a hash I deleted that boom It showed. Wonder what those are worth. Biggest problem is I'm Canadian so what is 15$ us is 30 Canadian and then like $100 shipping.