Transmission pan and fluid change questions

[SitKneelBend]

Let me ask you fellas another question about the front/rear differential fluid levels and transfer case levels.

I did those while I had the rear end jacked up about 9 1/2 inches to level the transmission. Is it OK to do it that way?

Or is it best to level the wheels front and back equally to check those levels? I want to make sure I’m doing it the correct way.

Thanks

Those need to have the truck on all 4 wheels BUT the levels won't be nearly as off as the transmission would be. IN fact, the transfer case and rear diff would likely be slightly overfilled and the front diff would be slightly low

 

[HangmanNY]

Tomorrow, I’m going to jack up the truck front and rear the same height. Then I’ll check the rear differential and the transfer case again.

 

[SitKneelBend]

Tomorrow, I’m going to jack up the truck front and rear the same height. Then I’ll check the rear differential and the transfer case again.

Be mindful that it might poor out when level. I'm not really sure if it matters if those are overfilled, aren't those just lubricated from the parts dipping in and splashing fluid around (no pumps)?

 

[SitKneelBend]

OK, now that I'm over a week into my transmission service success, I have a confession to make.

I used Royal Purple Max ATF in the transmission...

There, I said it. I couldn't find anyone that had tried it (and/or posted about it). I know that Valvoline MaxLife is the go to for this transmission, but I found a great price for Royal Purple Max ATF (which was likely listed incorrectly but it worked in my favor) and I received 24 quarts for about $130. I have to say that I am a fan of Royal Purple but I was going to go with Valvoline MaxLife due to cost until I found this deal. It's the first Royal Purple product I've used that's not purple, it's red like other ATFs.

That said, at first I really didn't notice much of a change. I believe my factory fluid was low for the first 81,000 miles of it's life and I used almost 9 quarts of RP filling it back up with the new 2 quart expanded capacity of the PPE pan. After about a week of driving though with the fluid working it's way through, I can tell my transmission is smoother but more importantly I think much of the perceived smoothness is that the truck seems much quieter. It also seems to take much less effort for the engine to move the truck down the road (which is likely contributing to the sound level reduction). The truck seems to go through the gears faster now to get to its happy place. I reset "trip B" in the cluster and so far I getting about 1/2mpg better and climbing too.

One thing I think I've seen (somewhere) recommended is to either do a quick transmission relearn after servicing the transmission. I'm happy with it's performance now, but I thought I saw that it was recommended by the manufacturer after servicing so I might initiate that with AlfaOBD sometime soon.

EDIT: I also used Royal Purple in the front and rear differentials, but Amsoil in the transfer case.

 

[HangmanNY]

Be mindful that it might poor out when level. I'm not really sure if it matters if those are overfilled, aren't those just lubricated from the parts dipping in and splashing fluid around (no pumps)?

Right now, we are back in New York State and all of my spare redline gear oil, and Amsoil ATF (for the transfer case) is down in Florida.

I’ve got the truck parked on the driveway (which is fairly level-pavers)

I got to check the rear differential fluid level. After wiggling out that rubber plug, nothing came out. I did the same with the transfer case and no excess fluid came out. Same with the front differential.

I ordered some more redline 75w-140 rear gear oil. I have one of those Mityvac hand pump extractor/fillers. I’ll try to top off the rear differential to see if anything comes out.

I ordered another quart of Amsoil ATF fluid to check the transfer case level again.

We just drove 1250 miles from Florida to New York State. After I do all of this, I’m gonna jack up the rear end again to level the transmission. Going to double check the fluid level. I’m assuming all I have to do is start it and pull the fill plug to check the level? I know the temperature has to be at least 86° up to 122° to get an accurate reading.

 

[SitKneelBend]

Right now, we are back in New York State and all of my spare redline gear oil, and Amsoil ATF (for the transfer case) is down in Florida.

I’ve got the truck parked on the driveway (which is fairly level-pavers)

I got to check the rear differential fluid level. After wiggling out that rubber plug, nothing came out. I did the same with the transfer case and no excess fluid came out. Same with the front differential.

I ordered some more redline 75w-140 rear gear oil. I have one of those Mityvac hand pump extractor/fillers. I’ll try to top off the rear differential to see if anything comes out.

I ordered another quart of Amsoil ATF fluid to check the transfer case level again.

We just drove 1250 miles from Florida to New York State. After I do all of this, I’m gonna jack up the rear end again to level the transmission. Going to double check the fluid level. I’m assuming all I have to do is start it and pull the fill plug to check the level? I know the temperature has to be at least 86° up to 122° to get an accurate reading.

I asked the same question and it is best to run it through the gears like the original fill procedure to make sure everything is full which will make more room in the pan for a proper fill.

 

[HangmanNY]

I asked the same question and it is best to run it through the gears like the original fill procedure to make sure everything is full which will make more room in the pan for a proper fill.

Even if we just drove 1250 miles?

 

[SitKneelBend]

Even if we just drove 1250 miles?

Yep, the idea being that once your vehicle sits idle the fluids drain back down into the pan. That "excess" fluid in the pan needs to go to as much of the nooks and crannies of the transmission as possible and this is accomplished while running (going to neutral, reverse, getting to second gear) before checking the fluid level. If you check it without the transmission circuits being filled first, you will get a false reading and you may loose too much fluid when you go to check it.

@Wild one gave a great explanation to me when I asked too...

Transmission pan and fluid change questions

All of them go cheap,FCA try save as much as they can ,on the classic 1500 ram,they eliminated the plastic engine top cover. It's just a good thing that the engine cover was eliminated, all it did was catch dirt and dust and allowed the engine to stay hotter ...jm2¢

www.ramforum.com

 

[SitKneelBend]

Some of you might find this rant interesting. Chrysler training techs to rebuild the 8-Speed 8HP/845RE transmissions now...

ZF 8HP Transmission Training

Please NOTE: The bulk of my time in the comment section is spent on comments and questions from SUBSCRIBERS, If you not subscribed, or leave off the question...

www.youtube.com

 

[BlownGP]

Some of you might find this rant interesting. Chrysler training techs to rebuild the 8-Speed 8HP/845RE transmissions now...

ZF 8HP Transmission Training

Please NOTE: The bulk of my time in the comment section is spent on comments and questions from SUBSCRIBERS, If you not subscribed, or leave off the question...

www.youtube.com

Interesting.

Guess they got tired of changing out transmission. Can get coslty. lol

 

[1 MEAN66]

CAll whomever makes/sells the PPE trans pan, get the torque that they recommend, for their pan. I also have never used one, does it come with torque specs. in the directions,?? Are there directions. Mine has the 65RFE trans.

 

[SitKneelBend]

CAll whomever makes/sells the PPE trans pan, get the torque that they recommend, for their pan. I also have never used one, does it come with torque specs. in the directions,?? Are there directions. Mine has the 65RFE trans.

Torque and pattern are included with their pans.

 

[SitKneelBend]

Just posting my experience after changing the OEM Pan to PPE. It definitely keeps things cooler but their is a caviat...no matter what, the truck will get the transmission fluid to 185-195, the PPE pan can slow this process but not reduce the temperatures. However, you can stop this transmission fluid warm up process by simply turning on the heat in the cab, the 3-way coolant bypass will shut off antifreeze going to the transmission to warm it up with the heat running.

This winter I could drive for nearly an hour with full heat and return home with the transmission being 140 (so long as the heat stayed on). This could be very useful when trying to drain and fill the transmission and keeping the proper temperature for the fill procedure. Once the truck is at the minimum temperature, turn on the heat full blast and this should greatly extend the time you have to get the levels right because the truck will not be warming the transmission from the 3-way.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Just posting my experience after changing the OEM Pan to PPE. It definitely keeps things cooler but their is a caviat...no matter what, the truck will get the transmission fluid to 185-195, the PPE pan can slow this process but not reduce the temperatures. However, you can stop this transmission fluid warm up process by simply turning on the heat in the cab, the 3-way coolant bypass will shut off antifreeze going to the transmission to warm it up with the heat running.

This winter I could drive for nearly an hour with full heat and return home with the transmission being 140 (so long as the heat stayed on). This could be very useful when trying to drain and fill the transmission and keeping the proper temperature for the fill procedure. Once the truck is at the minimum temperature, turn on the heat full blast and this should greatly extend the time you have to get the levels right because the truck will not be warming the transmission from the 3-way.

Or get Caulk's bypass kit.

 

[SitKneelBend]

Or get Caulk's bypass kit.

Correct, I was trying to remember who made that, thanks! @caulk04 sells the bypass kit