Transmission Swap

[Silver Tex]

Hi All,
Have started on the change out of the transmission in our 99 Ram 1500 4X4.

I have a few questions having cruised the forum for available information.
It has been advised to flush the cooler/lines prior to installation of reman. trans. (thanks Merc).

I have also read don't flush. Now I can't tell for sure if it is meant the transmission or the cooler/lines or both. As the transmission is a re-manufactured unit, that takes the trans component of the question off the table.

What the warranty states with my new trans is.
Must hot flush coolant lines and cooler.
Must replace check valve.

Questions:
1. The new trans came with a new Hayden trans. cooler. Should I swap it out for the factory one?
2. I think I should still back flush connections to the radiator. Thoughts?
3. I have read some say get rid of the check valve. Replace after cooler flush or replacement; remove completely?
4. I will back flush each of the cooler lines from trans to radiator/cooler. Any objections?
5. I was going to use the canned trans flush. Any endorsements or objections?
6. Assuming canned flush chemical is acceptable, I was going to blow some compressed air through it to get as much residual chemical out. Any objections or other methods?
7. Anything I'm not considering?

FWIW - I bought the new/reman. through Rock Auto (The Transmission Authority). Visual inspection suggests its done well. Information states the valve body, clutches, torque converter and some other innerds are upgrades over factory or made more efficient in operation. Not sure what that means exactly. As stated came with a new trans cooler which was a surprise as it was not stated at order. $1300 delivered to my door in a ********* plastic box once I get my core back. Was the best I could find for "stock" replacement.

Thanks in advance for your feedback and thoughts.
Scott.

 

[Merc225hp]

Hi All,
Have started on the change out of the transmission in our 99 Ram 1500 4X4.

I have a few questions having cruised the forum for available information.
It has been advised to flush the cooler/lines prior to installation of reman. trans. (thanks Merc).

I have also read don't flush. Now I can't tell for sure if it is meant the transmission or the cooler/lines or both. As the transmission is a re-manufactured unit, that takes the trans component of the question off the table.

What the warranty states with my new trans is.
Must hot flush coolant lines and cooler.
Must replace check valve.

Questions:
1. The new trans came with a new Hayden trans. cooler. Should I swap it out for the factory one?
2. I think I should still back flush connections to the radiator. Thoughts?
3. I have read some say get rid of the check valve. Replace after cooler flush or replacement; remove completely?
4. I will back flush each of the cooler lines from trans to radiator/cooler. Any objections?
5. I was going to use the canned trans flush. Any endorsements or objections?
6. Assuming canned flush chemical is acceptable, I was going to blow some compressed air through it to get as much residual chemical out. Any objections or other methods?
7. Anything I'm not considering?

FWIW - I bought the new/reman. through Rock Auto (The Transmission Authority). Visual inspection suggests its done well. Information states the valve body, clutches, torque converter and some other innerds are upgrades over factory or made more efficient in operation. Not sure what that means exactly. As stated came with a new trans cooler which was a surprise as it was not stated at order. $1300 delivered to my door in a ********* plastic box once I get my core back. Was the best I could find for "stock" replacement.

Thanks in advance for your feedback and thoughts.
Scott.

1 If its bigger swap it out same size leave it be.
2 Yes flush everything.
3 Remove the check valve completely from the line.
4 None
5 None
6 As long as the air is filtered and has no moisture in it fine.
7 There are upgraded tranny lines that should be installed as well, they eliminate the plastic connectors down at the tranny.

Edit; I hope you are installing a new torq converter at this time.

 

[Silver Tex]

Hi Merc,
Yes on the torque converter.

Air compressor line is not filtered. What should I do with this? Maybe try and push some fresh fluid through it? The flushing product states any residue is harmless to the tranny and though the carrier fluid is water, it ultimately evaporates.

Hmm, upgraded trans lines. Do you have a source? My lines don't have any plastic at the tranny connection. Maybe I'm missing something. They look to be a standard threaded/flared to me??

Thanks for your continued input.
Merry Christmas!

 

[Merc225hp]

Good good on the verter.

As long as you don't see any contaminants coming out of the flushed items then as you say it just evaps off so no big deal. You could put some fresh ATF+4 though them would not hurt one bit.

If you have the flared fittings on the tranny and lines your's have been upgrade at some point and time.

 

[Silver Tex]

Morning all,
So I have a couple of more questions.

1. Based on some pic's that DD94 has posted, when I get to the factory cooler, I'm going to find molded in lines to cooler. The new tranny I bought came with a new cooler. Can I cut these lines, flush them to get any metal shavings out from the cut and use the supplied hose for connections from that point I make the cut?

2. Thoughts on prefilling the torque converter? I only ask as it came seated and secured. I thought not removing and risking any pump seal damage was a decent idea. However, maybe it would be best to put a little prime of fluid in it so as to not dry start it. I've only done it by pre-filling in the past.

Thanks,
scott.

 

[Merc225hp]

Some cut the lines others use brass fittings, I went with brass fittings.

I like to pre-fill the tq before install.

 

[Silver Tex]

OK, so hopefully not off topic to far.
I'm swapping oil pump and have read a high volume would be best. Motor has 169K on it.
Thoughts???
Any issues with EngineTech or DNJ?

 

[Merc225hp]

I don't see any problem going HV oil pump, it will not suck the pan dry as some might suggest. I am not familiar with either brand.

 

[dodge dude94]

You should flush any cooling lines and any old cooler you plan on using.
If you're got a factory aux cooler, it's up to you whether or not to use the Hayden unit that came with it, they may want you to use that cooler as well for warranty purposes, but personally, I'd install that too. The stock cooling for these trucks is terrible.

 

[Silver Tex]

Thanks Guys!

DD, you are correct in your assumption surrounding warranty and the new cooler.

Man there seems to be so much information (mis/dis) out there regarding oil pumps. I have a new stock pump in hand, I don't have any reason to believe there is a low pressure condition and I'm still going to drop the pan & clean sump and screen. Is there a significant benefit to installing an HV pump. I thought I read somewhere on this forum it was suggested.

Merc, I always appreciate (& trust) your input so I don't want this to sound like I'm questioning your previous statement. I guess I'm looking for a distinct advantage in going one way or the other.

I've also read if I got HV I should get a new pump shaft with a hardened tip.

As always, thanks in advance. The input I get from this site is balanced and insightful.

 

[Merc225hp]

Thanks Guys!

DD, you are correct in your assumption surrounding warranty and the new cooler.

Man there seems to be so much information (mis/dis) out there regarding oil pumps. I have a new stock pump in hand, I don't have any reason to believe there is a low pressure condition and I'm still going to drop the pan & clean sump and screen. Is there a significant benefit to installing an HV pump. I thought I read somewhere on this forum it was suggested.

Merc, I always appreciate (& trust) your input so I don't want this to sound like I'm questioning your previous statement. I guess I'm looking for a distinct advantage in going one way or the other.

I've also read if I got HV I should get a new pump shaft with a hardened tip.

As always, thanks in advance. The input I get from this site is balanced and insightful.

No not really over the stock pump, most install the HV pump when there oil psi starts to freak out/whipped bearings. So up to you if you install an HV pump or not. As you are right there me I would install the HV pump just because extra protection.

Ok if you are going to do this job , get a new oil pump pickup tube the stock one is useless, very small opening that likes to plug.

No need for the hardened oil pump shaft, the only reason I installed one was because of my cam.

 

[Silver Tex]

Thanks Merc, You've provided me with what I'm looking for to make my decision.
Regarding the pickup tube opening...that was something I noticed as well. It almost looks like a sludge barrier.

Ok, maybe last question - but won't promise. I followed your write up on mechanical oil gauge install. Here's my question.

If I use a steel or copper tube between the "tee" and the factory sending unit, do I need the ground wire as you described? I've already made the mistake not putting the mech. gauge in once and with the tranny out I'm getting it right this time.

 

[Merc225hp]

If you use a copper or steel line no ground wire will be needed. Danm good idea!! Time to change my line to copper. Thanks for that

Yep that stock pickup tube is junk.

You're right there, have you thought about changing out the rear main seal as well? Just as a maintenance job not because it needs it.

 

[Silver Tex]

I do have the new rear main seal and changing it out will be part of the whole effort - mostly because it leaks . I also will be following your suggestion to clock the seal apart from the pan to block seam.

 

[Merc225hp]

Full meal deal eh nice . She will be a whole new truck when you are done.

Edit: I know you know but I have to type it.

Make sure you prime the new oil pump with oil before you install it.

 

[Silver Tex]

Copy that! Things that are best said are better said!
I am going with the HV pump, FWIW.