Turning key will not start truck intermittently - dealer can't find problem

[bspink]

Hello,
I have a 2012 1500 Hemi with just under 70k on the clock. About 5-6k miles back I noticed that when I turn the key fob it wouldn't start, sometimes I need to turn the key multiple times. Unfortunately it has been an intermittent problem so when I asked the dealership to investigate of course they couldn't find the problem. It seems to me that the path from a key turn to the engine start would be fairly well known and easy to trace.

Question: Has anyone else seen this problem or know what areas should be looked at to find the problem?

Thanks in advance,
Bob

 

[muddy12]

I had a similar “no start” issue with my 2012 shortly after I bought it.
While trying to track down the issue, I discovered a couple loose fuses and a loose relay in the fuse box(or whatever they call it now). Pushed them all back in tight, and kept an eye on them for a while after. So far, the issue hasn’t returned.

May not be your issue, but it couldn’t hurt to check the fuse box.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ratket]

^^ this, check the relays/Fuses.. happens on my work F150 all the time.
Also could be the Key fob, or battery in the fob. could also be the battery in the truck. We

 

[crash68]

or battery in the fob

neither the "key" or the keyless Push to Start fob requires a battery in it to start the truck.

 

[bspink]

I have two key fobs and they both show the same problem.

One other note: The problem is slowly getting more frequent and experience it when the truck is cold or when it's been off for 20-30 minutes. The worst is when I have to turn the key two or three times before it will kick off while sitting in a ferry line. . . UGH!

Could the contacts that are used in the key fob tumbler go bad? Can the dealership trace the problem if it only happens once or twice?

My warrantee is coming up and I want to get this fixed before it lapses so I'm not stuck with a huge bill. I'm not convinced the dealership knows what to do or how to trace the problem.

Thanks again,
Bob

 

[17CrewCab1500]

I had a similar issue with my 2014 Ram 2500. I'd turn the key and nothing. Than at times I started getting "WRONG KEYFOB" message.

Dealer had to replace a wireless controller on the ignition tumbler thingie..

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

Take it to a different stealership. You might actually get someone who knows how to diagnose things.

 

[bspink]

I did some research thanks to suggestions on this thread - I believe the WIN (Wireless Ignition Node) is the problem component. I called the dealership and told them what I believed to be the issue. They will look again, I also got assurance that if my warrantee is expired they will honor it. It's sad to think the dealership wouldn't troubleshoot the issue as if it were their own. I read stories of the WIN failing and a factory recall in older vehicles but I guess the version in my truck is still prone to problems.

Thank you for the help and I'll update the story when I have a conclusion.

 

[elvatoli]

Mine is doing the same. 2012 RAM 1500 4x4 4.7 Quad Cab 190,000 miles. After fixing the fuse box with a jumper cable with relay over the fuel pump in order to not change the whole fuse box ($800).
I think the key is not making good contact. After I press the key to the side, sometimes it work.
Hector

 

[Craig Muszynski]

I had this problem for a long time...probably from about 30k miles until 80k. Every once in a while I'd turn the key to start (no fob) and nothing would happen. Try again and it would usually start the first try or at least always the second. One very cold night it just wouldn't start at all, no crank. Had it towed in. Turned out to be a faulty R.F. module. IIRC they had to reprogram the keys to the new module. Hasn't happened once since! I'm at 104k now

 

[Craig Muszynski]

Bspink...yes that's what was talking about

 

[indept]

I did some research thanks to suggestions on this thread - I believe the WIN (Wireless Ignition Node) is the problem component. I called the dealership and told them what I believed to be the issue. They will look again, I also got assurance that if my warrantee is expired they will honor it. It's sad to think the dealership wouldn't troubleshoot the issue as if it were their own. I read stories of the WIN failing and a factory recall in older vehicles but I guess the version in my truck is still prone to problems.

Thank you for the help and I'll update the story when I have a conclusion.

Did they fix it, & if so was this ^^^ the problem?

 

[Tach_tech]

Try wiggling the key up and down while holding it in the start position. It’s common for the key portion of the win module to wear over time and the connection becomes loose.

 

[Craig Muszynski]

Try wiggling the key up and down while holding it in the start position. It’s common for the key portion of the win module to wear over time and the connection becomes loose.

Good point. When this happened with mine the dealership recommended not having a huge heavy key ring full of keys hanging off of it all the time. Of course it should be designed so you don't have to worry about that.....

 

[Gary2]

I just replaced my WIN in my 14 . Mine would not go back to off so I could get the fobik back out . With a little force I could get the key out but it was not right . Rock auto has the latest WIN as they are on their 3rd gen ( part number dont match but it replaces the first to WIN) being they are such a piece of crap.You can switch it out in about 3 minutes. I installed the new one and left the old one hang down below the dash for a couple days till I could get to the dealer to programed it to my Fobiks. I left the 2 screws out of the panel under the steering wheel so I could un snap it to put the plug into the new WIN when I got to the dealer. Mechanic came out with an app on his phone plugged it into the odb port 5 min later was done. , MOPAR WIN was 73 bucks @ Rock auto and 60 bucks for two fobiks programed at the dealer. I took the old WIN apart afterwards( very easy to do ). A little electric motor would rotate the lock to keep it from turning off, I guess so when you are not in park it cant be shut off. Any way like most little electric motors it has two wires on it and the blue one came off . I soldiered it back on so I have a back up now . I should of opened it up initially as I would of only been down about 10 minutes it was such an easy fix.

 

[Iiplus]

Hello,
I have a 2012 1500 Hemi with just under 70k on the clock. About 5-6k miles back I noticed that when I turn the key fob it wouldn't start, sometimes I need to turn the key multiple times. Unfortunately it has been an intermittent problem so when I asked the dealership to investigate of course they couldn't find the problem. It seems to me that the path from a key turn to the engine start would be fairly well known and easy to trace.

Question: Has anyone else seen this problem or know what areas should be looked at to find the problem?

Thanks in advance,
Bob

I had a similar “no start” issue with my 2012 shortly after I bought it.
While trying to track down the issue, I discovered a couple loose fuses and a loose relay in the fuse box(or whatever they call it now). Pushed them all back in tight, and kept an eye on them for a while after. So far, the issue hasn’t returned.

May not be your issue, but it couldn’t hurt to check the fuse box.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Iiplus]

Hello,
I have a 2012 1500 Hemi with just under 70k on the clock. About 5-6k miles back I noticed that when I turn the key fob it wouldn't start, sometimes I need to turn the key multiple times. Unfortunately it has been an intermittent problem so when I asked the dealership to investigate of course they couldn't find the problem. It seems to me that the path from a key turn to the engine start would be fairly well known and easy to trace.

Question: Has anyone else seen this problem or know what areas should be looked at to find the problem?

Thanks in advance,
Bob

I had similar issue on my 2011 Ram 5.7 Hemi 138K miles. Manifested as lack of fuel / lack of spark. Started happening infrequently once every few weeks and became more frequent. My mechanic discovered fuse issue

 

[Dodgedaddie also]

Well I have good news AND Bad news on this issue. After being at dealer 3 times with this issue. They said never heard of this or could duplicate. (of course Not)
Finally they did what they said was a PIN test. And guess WHAT ,there was some that were bad.
They replace the whole ignition an 2 new keys. So far all is good..Now for the BAD NEWS.. $800.00 . Still cheap enough from being stranded during a blizzard.​