uConnect 8.4a audio advice

[mefferz]

Hey all,

I purchased a 2014 Bighorn CC a few months ago and love the truck, but I hated the sound of the base 6 speaker system. I have the uConnect 8.4a and steering wheel controls so I don't want to swap out the HU. I installed Kicker 40CS654s in the front doors and Kicker 40CS694s in the rear doors. I kept them unamplified for a couple weeks then installed an Alpine KTP-445U for a little more juice. Unfortunately, they sound way too bright now. By the time I turn up the volume to where the midbass and bass feel "full", the treble is ear piercing and I get a headache after a couple of songs.

I was debating returning the Kickers for higher end speakers with silk/textile tweeters (like the JBL gx series) to see if I have better results, but after reading some other posts on this board about bad results with amping the uConnects, I'm wondering if it's the HUs fault. Do I have to invest in an LOC unit like the AudioControl LC6i to remedy the amped signal?

I'm not looking for a competition level system, I just want a decent system that I can listen to at higher volumes without listening fatigue. Any info is appreciated from the numerous audio gurus on this board. Thanks in advance!

 

[wsutard1]

Yes. You need something to adjust the signal from the headunit.
The headunit signal is specifically designed to work with the crappy speakers and to protect them at high volume. Thus, when you put in real speakers you hear how bright the signal is as well as the bass drop off when you pump the volume.

The type of tweeter isn't going to matter since the signal is juiced at the top end.

Audio Control makes quality stuff. I personally like the Accu Bass feature as I beleive it makes up for the bass drop off designed into the head units.

However, anything that lets you EQ your signal will help you tone down the high range.

Standard LOCs won't help with this issue.

 

[mefferz]

Yes. You need something to adjust the signal from the headunit.
The headunit signal is specifically designed to work with the crappy speakers and to protect them at high volume. Thus, when you put in real speakers you hear how bright the signal is as well as the bass drop off when you pump the volume.

The type of tweeter isn't going to matter since the signal is juiced at the top end.

Audio Control makes quality stuff. I personally like the Accu Bass feature as I beleive it makes up for the bass drop off designed into the head units.

However, anything that lets you EQ your signal will help you tone down the high range.

Standard LOCs won't help with this issue.

Thanks for the advice, fellow Washingtonian! I guess I'll be going the AudioControl route. The quandry now is which model I need. It looks like the LC6i does not have the AccuBass feature. The LC2i does have AccuBass, but is only 2 channels and does not have signal summing, which might be useful if the uConnect does not have a full range signal to F and R. The LC7i has AccuBass, 6 channel output, and signal summing, but is also twice the price of the LC2i. Any suggestions?

 

[14hemiexpress]

Thanks for the advice, fellow Washingtonian! I guess I'll be going the AudioControl route. The quandry now is which model I need. It looks like the LC6i does not have the AccuBass feature. The LC2i does have AccuBass, but is only 2 channels and does not have signal summing, which might be useful if the uConnect does not have a full range signal to F and R. The LC7i has AccuBass, 6 channel output, and signal summing, but is also twice the price of the LC2i. Any suggestions?

unless you plan on going all out the lci2 will fit the bill. Can't imagine needing more than 2 amps it's possible but 1 for your dash speakers and 1 for subs call it a day.

 

[mefferz]

unless you plan on going all out the lci2 will fit the bill. Can't imagine needing more than 2 amps it's possible but 1 for your dash speakers and 1 for subs call it a day.

Do you know if signal summing is required to get a full range signal to all speakers with the uConnect 8.4a? Not sure how it's programmed.

 

[wsutard1]

I have my LCQ-1 set for summing. Not 100% on if it's needed but it doesn't hurt. If you are going the audio controls route then DavidRam is selling his almost new LCQ-1 unit. I purchased his hertz components and Skar amp they were flawless. http://www.ramforum.com/f21/hertz_hsk163_3way_hi-energy_comps_2_helix_p12_subwoofers_more-59112/

 

[wsutard1]

Ohh and GO HAWKS!

 

[mefferz]

Some great info here. I've PM'd DavidRam about his LCQ-1 and I'm strongly considering it. I've also spoke with a few local audio shops to get their thoughts and they are pushing the DQ-61, even if I don't buy it directly from them.

Does anyone have experience between the LCQ-1 and DQ-61? It appears the main benefits of the DQ-61 are signal delay and 7 band EQ per channel. Anything else I'm missing? I just want to make sure I get the product that is best for my needs.

 

[troutspinner]

The 8.4a / Non-Alpine does not require signal summing, it is putting out a full signal both front and rear.

It just sounds like you have too many tweeters in your system and you need to control the high frequencies.

Your points on the DQ-61 vs. the LCQ-1 are correct. I ran a DQDX before, very similar but I have to say I liked it a lot. I was able to dial in the sound nicely and was able to move my sub sound from the rear to the front with the signal delay. For your current needs however, I think the LCQ-1 would work fine.

 

[wsutard1]

For the price of a new DQ61 you might then want to step up to a small DSP.

 

[mefferz]

For the price of a new DQ61 you might then want to step up to a small DSP.

I can get a new DQ-61 just north of $300~ locally, so it's not too bad. I don't know a lot about DSPs, so I don't know what they would offer over the DQ-61. The question I'm asking myself is do I need signal delay and a 7 band EQ over the LCQ-1? I don't have a lot of actual experience with customized car audio so it's hard not to over analyze everything, but I also want to make sure I don't waste time and money on gear I'll never fully utilize. Sleeping on it is probably the answer.

 

[troutspinner]

I can get a new DQ-61 just north of $300~ locally, so it's not too bad. I don't know a lot about DSPs, so I don't know what they would offer over the DQ-61. The question I'm asking myself is do I need signal delay and a 7 band EQ over the LCQ-1? I don't have a lot of actual experience with customized car audio so it's hard not to over analyze everything, but I also want to make sure I don't waste time and money on gear I'll never fully utilize. Sleeping on it is probably the answer.

With that said, LCQ-1.

 

[mefferz]

With that said, LCQ-1.

Well, sleeping on it turned into a thinner wallet for me. I came to the conclusion that I wanted the full meal deal instead of half assing it with just a processor. I spent a lot of time at a local audio shop talking to one of their very knowledgeable (and persuasive) techs.

I'll be getting an ARC 10D2 or 12D2 sub with an ARC XDi 650.1 amplifier. The sub will go in a custom fiberglass enclosure (they don't even sell the pre-fab boxes due to quality issues) molded into the storage bay below one of the rear seats so it looks factory. The initial plan was to get an Alpine Type S 10 sub and Alpine MRV500 amp, but the rep found they were out of stock on the sub after I left. He upgraded me to the ARC gear for the same price. Who does that?! I'll also be getting the DQ-61 processor since it has more EQ bands and signal delay for better imaging.

Hopefully the end result blows my eyebrows back. I'll take a few pics once everything is installed later this week.

 

[Hipps2000]

Nice let us know how it turns out and don't forgot lots of pics of the install... I am gettin ready to build and install mine.

 

[mefferz]

The DQ-61, Arc 650.1 amp, and Arc 10" sub have been installed. The custom fiberglass enclosure turned out great, very clean (pics soon). The sub pounds. Unfortunately, I think the Alpine KTP-445U is my weak spot now. It starts to clip at moderate-to-high volumes. I'm going to return it and install an Arc xDI 450.4 myself so I have plenty of clean power to play with.

Question on speaker wiring...I'm going to mount the 4 channel amp under the rear seat on the passenger side and run fresh speaker wire to all the doors. I want to avoid running the speaker wire back along the driver side chases because that's where the 4 gauge power wire is coming into the amps. Is routing above the head liner the best way to go to get wire back to the driver side doors with the least interference?

 

[mefferz]

Well I didn't want to leave the Alpine KTP-445U with an undeserved bad rap...turns out the tech who did my install calibrated the DQ-61 wrong. He had the input gains turned way up on it and the output gains way down for the door speakers. By the time the HU was at a respectable volume the DQ was choking on the blown up signal and passing that to the amp. I was pissed after I figured that out when adjusting the settings myself. When I picked up the truck he said the distortion was due to the amp, hence why I bought an Arc 450.4 from the shop and was going to install it myself. Luckily I caught the miscalibration before I started tearing everything up again.

If you want something done right, you gotta do it yourself I guess.

 

[RamminBeavers]

The 8.4a / Non-Alpine does not require signal summing, it is putting out a full signal both front and rear.

It just sounds like you have too many tweeters in your system and you need to control the high frequencies.

Your points on the DQ-61 vs. the LCQ-1 are correct. I ran a DQDX before, very similar but I have to say I liked it a lot. I was able to dial in the sound nicely and was able to move my sub sound from the rear to the front with the signal delay. For your current needs however, I think the LCQ-1 would work fine.

I have the 8.4an / non-Alpine. Does it also put our full signal to both front and rear? I've been trying to find output specs on this head unit for a few days now without success.