What did you do to/with your second gen today?

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NightMares

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Boise, ID
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2001
Engine
5.9
Well said **** it to buying a new DD for now and invested the money into some pretty crazy upgrades for my truck.

DOR 7" Progressive Rate coil springs
DOR Arms being custom built
DOR Bolt In steering being custom built
Fox 2.0 Remote Resi's with DSC adjusters

I sold my Fox remote resi's I planned to rebuild and ordered in the 2.0's with DSC adjusters instead. From here I'm bumping from the BDS 5" to DOR 7" in the front. The rear already has the BDS shackle flip with the stock block, so I'm going to swap the stocker for a 5" block and I'll throw the leaf back in that I took out a while ago, that way it sits level at 7" of lift. My long arm brackets are already welded to my frame, so DOR is going to custom build me my new arms to replace those with. The BDS long arms are 44" long, so I'm having DOR build my replacements at 45" and they'll be adjustable. Uppers are BDS but they're stock dimension, so I'm having DOR build their adjustable uppers, only again 1" long. With these I can stretch my wheelbase and recenter the tire in the fender well. With all this, I'm having DOR custom build their steering as well, going with their bolt in kit, except the main tie rod from knuckle to knuckle will have 2 bends in it to allow clearance of the track bar with the axle moved forward. I might have to throw my BD Diesel track bar in the pipe bender to allow clearance for the pumpkin, but I'll cross that road when I get there.

I decided to just order in the new Fox 2.0's for two reasons: One is for the cost. I paid around $400 for them alone. The rebuild kits for my old resi's I had were about $95 a piece, so $380. To send all the blue parts out to be anodized red was another $250. Painting the shock bodies and reservoirs was going to be about $50 in paint supplies. Decals being custom made red to go on the black shocks would have been another $20 or so. Doesn't sound like much, but when you start adding it all up I'd have been in them for around $1100 for some 20 year old Fox 2.0's that wouldn't be adjustable minus the fact that I could choose the pressure of Nitrogen in them. Or, for $1320 I can have brand new shocks with the low speed compression adjuster, in which case I just turn a knob to stiffen or soften the shocks up.

Second reason is for matching purposes. Once I get the steering done, I don't plan on putting dual stabilizers back on. Instead, I'm going to do the Fox Pass Through which will have the same adjustment on it as the shocks, so I can choose how stiff my steering wheel gets. With new fox shocks, the stabilizer will match...sounds silly but it's cohesive at that point which won't set off my OCD when all this gets done.

Once I get all the arms and steering here, I'll send it off to powder coat to be done red.

The bad news about all this is, I won't have any of it before the Rubicon. I'm about 6-8 weeks out on the DOR parts (minus the springs which I told them to ship all at once on a pallet to save shipping cost). The Fox shocks are also on a backorder, so I'm about 90 days out on those as well.

But it's finally happening. Once this is all done I should be set until I'm ready for coilovers and the rear 4 linked.
 
Last edited:

jbmobbs

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Location
murfreesboro, tennessee
Ram Year
1996
Engine
5.9 360
Well said **** it to buying a new DD for now and invested the money into some pretty crazy upgrades for my truck.

DOR 7" Progressive Rate coil springs
DOR Arms being custom built
DOR Bolt In steering being custom built
Fox 2.0 Remote Resi's with DSC adjusters

I sold my Fox remote resi's I planned to rebuild and ordered in the 2.0's with DSC adjusters instead. From here I'm bumper from the BDS 5" to DOR 7" in the front. The rear already has the BDS shackle flip with the stock block, so I'm going to swap the stocker for a 5" block and I'll throw the leaf back in that I took out a while ago, that way it sits level at 7" of lift. My long arm brackets are already welded to my frame, so DOR is going to custom build me my new arms to replace those with. The BDS long arms are 44" long, so I'm having DOR build my replacements at 45" and they'll be adjustable. Uppers are BDS but they're stock dimension, so I'm having DOR build their adjustable uppers, only again 1" long. With these I can stretch my wheelbase and recenter the tire in the fender well. With all this, I'm having DOR custom build their steering as well, going with their bolt in kit, except the main tie rod from knuckle to knuckle will have 2 bends in it to allow clearance of the track bar with the axle moved forward. I might have to throw my BD Diesel track bar in the pipe bender to allow clearance for the pumpkin, but I'll cross that road when I get there.

I decided to just order in the new Fox 2.0's for two reasons: One is for the cost. I paid around $400 for them alone. The rebuild kits for my old resi's I had were about $95 a piece, so $380. To send all the blue parts out to be anodized red was another $250. Painting the shock bodies and reservoirs was going to be about $50 in paint supplies. Decals being custom made red to go on the black shocks would have been another $20 or so. Doesn't sound like much, but when you start adding it all up I'd have been in them for around $1100 for some 20 year old Fox 2.0's that wouldn't be adjustable minus the fact that I could choose the pressure of Nitrogen in them. Or, for $1320 I can have brand new shocks with the low speed compression adjuster, in which case I just turn a knob to stiffen or soften the shocks up.

Second reason is for matching purposes. Once I get the steering done, I don't plan on putting dual stabilizers back on. Instead, I'm going to do the Fox Pass Through which will have the same adjustment on it as the shocks, so I can choose how stiff my steering wheel gets. With new fox shocks, the stabilizer will match...sounds silly but it's cohesive at that point which won't set off my OCD when all this gets done.

Once I get all the arms and steering here, I'll send it off to powder coat to be done red.

The bad news about all this is, I won't have any of it before the Rubicon. I'm about 6-8 weeks out on the DOR parts (minus the springs which I told them to ship all at once on a pallet to save shipping cost). The Fox shocks are also on a backorder, so I'm about 90 days out on those as well.

But it's finally happening. Once this is all done I should be set until I'm ready for coilovers and the rear 4 linked.
Want a DD? Buy my jeep grand cherokee. Ice cold ac, runs great

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mitchbowers

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Ram Year
1996 2500 5-speed, soon to be leveled on 33's
Engine
5.9 Magnum
Yall been ghosts lately. Where's everyone been???

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hey.. I'm here.. lol

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mitchbowers

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1996 2500 5-speed, soon to be leveled on 33's
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5.9 Magnum
so I was talking to an older mechanic today and shot my problem with the headlights to him and he thinks this could be a fuse(not likely) or a burned up connector into the fuse box. maybe I won't be doing toggle switches then lol

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dodge dude94

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so I was talking to an older mechanic today and shot my problem with the headlights to him and he thinks this could be a fuse(not likely) or a burned up connector into the fuse box. maybe I won't be doing toggle switches then lol

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Or old wiring and excessive draw caused by lack of proper relay usage.
 

mitchbowers

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Or old wiring and excessive draw caused by lack of proper relay usage.
I have all my newer relays correct, however whether a 20 year old relay may have failed who knows. I'm going to check the wires going into the fuse box first, but have any idea where that relay is located?

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dodge dude94

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I have all my newer relays correct, however whether a 20 year old relay may have failed who knows. I'm going to check the wires going into the fuse box first, but have any idea where that relay is located?

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I'm talking about re-wiring it the way the factory should have done by running them straight off the battery or a more sturdy source of juice rather than through the switch.
 

mitchbowers

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I'm talking about re-wiring it the way the factory should have done by running them straight off the battery or a more sturdy source of juice rather than through the switch.
ah. well, I'll take a look when I get some time and there's daylight. don't necessarily want to rewire something, but who knows.

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dodge dude94

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ah. well, I'll take a look when I get some time and there's daylight. don't necessarily want to rewire something, but who knows.

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I can post the write up if you want me to.
 

joepizuro

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Magnum v10
So I've got a bit of a problem. I've installed new springs/shocks/isolators and while jacking the axle in I've installed 4 new control arms. 3 went in with some jack work and a BFH. The driver side upper control arm is now crooked. I've got the bolt half way through but can't get the other side of it to match up. I've tried jacking the axle many different ways and trying to push the axle back (impossible now with most of the stuff installed) Just need some suggestions before I get back to it tomorrow.
 

MoparMagic'00

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Arkansas
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2000
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5.2 Magnum
So I've got a bit of a problem. I've installed new springs/shocks/isolators and while jacking the axle in I've installed 4 new control arms. 3 went in with some jack work and a BFH. The driver side upper control arm is now crooked. I've got the bolt half way through but can't get the other side of it to match up. I've tried jacking the axle many different ways and trying to push the axle back (impossible now with most of the stuff installed) Just need some suggestions before I get back to it tomorrow.
I wouldn't tighten anything down til it's done... if you had done that that is

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joepizuro

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I wouldn't tighten anything down til it's done... if you had done that that is

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None of the control arm bolts have nuts on them. Just can't get 1 of them all the way through... Any ideas?
 

MoparMagic'00

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None of the control arm bolts have nuts on them. Just can't get 1 of them all the way through... Any ideas?
Could it be backwards? Is it the correct one? Other than that all I have is pursuasion with a bfh

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dodge dude94

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Np man.



Between the steering box and axle seal, my truck marks its territory wherever it goes. :laughing1:
 

1SilverBullet2

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My M1 intake is for sale, $600 shipped or if you have a kegger for trade I'll go down to $575. PM me if you're interested.
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