What did you do with your 4th Gen this week?

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RamDiver

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2021+ F-150s do the same thing. A guy I know discovered, by opening his door, that it won't do it if you're still wearing your seatbelt. I wonder if the rams are the same?

Yes, Stellantis added this feature; I don't recall when.

The simplest fix is to use a seatbelt extender. This solution defeats other nannies, like seatbelt reminders.

I once had a Hyundai Elantra GT where the instant you inserted the key in the ignition, the dinger would blast a loud, high-frequency, hurry-hurry-hurry, before I explode-type dinger.
It also went nuts when I stopped and de-belted at the community mailbox.

The seatbelt extender was the answer.


seatbeltextenderpro.jpg


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The seatbelt reminder disable feature, using the seatbelt assembly and ignition switch, doesn't resolve having the EVIC monopolized with the seatbelt not connected notification.
It only stops the ding, not the light show. :cool:

.
 

1977dually

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Only applicable if you have auto 4x4. I was curious so I looked it up. Normally in auto 4x4 tires have to slip before 4x4 kicks in. The switch allows you to select 4x4 on all the time or off. I didn't think Ram had a 4x4 auto only feature. I thought there was a switch to put it in 4x4 or leave in auto mode. My 2017 doesn't have the auto mode. I believe the newer models are either in auto mode or forced 4x4, there is no 2 wheel drive switch. My only guess is that even in switched 4x4 mode it must still only engage when wheels slip?
That's not quite how it works. Even in 4lock the clutches still slip. On glare ice, or slush it makes the truck almost useless. You would assume in 4 lock it would be locked up tight, but it's only marginally better than auto 4x4.
 

Islander39er

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In 4 lock it actually locks up the transfer case tight whereas it slips stock.

I live in Cape Breton
Thanks for clarifying. I have to say I've always found my ram to be a very surefooted truck in winter condidtions, but it sounds like you're often facing more extreme surfaces.

I've never experienced driving an auto 4x4 system, I'd like to try just for curiosity. I drove 2wd, limited slip trucks for some time and with weight in the bed, never got stuck. When I hit a dry patch in 4x4 and it resists turning, I almost feel like going back to that setup. I have needed 4x4 to get out of a jam since I've had 4x4 trucks, but I haven't worried about adding weight the same either, and my previous 4x4 was an open rear diff. Not sure if my ram is or not.

Cool, I'd love to do a trip around Cape Breton some day.
 

Islander39er

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Yes, Stellantis added this feature; I don't recall when.

The simplest fix is to use a seatbelt extender. This solution defeats other nannies, like seatbelt reminders.

I once had a Hyundai Elantra GT where the instant you inserted the key in the ignition, the dinger would blast a loud, high-frequency, hurry-hurry-hurry, before I explode-type dinger.
It also went nuts when I stopped and de-belted at the community mailbox.

The seatbelt extender was the answer.


View attachment 580678


View attachment 580679


The seatbelt reminder disable feature, using the seatbelt assembly and ignition switch, doesn't resolve having the EVIC monopolized with the seatbelt not connected notification.
It only stops the ding, not the light show. :cool:

.
Hmm, I've never seen one of those before. That car sounds like it would drive me nuts.

Our store manager at work opened her door to look at something while parking the other week, her truck put itself in park. She was amazed, I said yup they do that now.

Like many such features, it might be genuinely helpful once in a blue moon. But the smart person (a rare breed) knows not to become reliant on it, lest the safety feature malfunction itself.
On the other hand, I've often left my door open while backing up, inches at a time, trying to line up with a trailer alone or so forth. The open door is actually helpful when trying to judge tiny distances like that, and I'm sure a seatbelt isn't necessary when you've gotta correct slightly, then get out and double check/connect the trailer.
 

1977dually

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Thanks for clarifying. I have to say I've always found my ram to be a very surefooted truck in winter condidtions, but it sounds like you're often facing more extreme surfaces.

I've never experienced driving an auto 4x4 system, I'd like to try just for curiosity. I drove 2wd, limited slip trucks for some time and with weight in the bed, never got stuck. When I hit a dry patch in 4x4 and it resists turning, I almost feel like going back to that setup. I have needed 4x4 to get out of a jam since I've had 4x4 trucks, but I haven't worried about adding weight the same either, and my previous 4x4 was an open rear diff. Not sure if my ram is or not.

Cool, I'd love to do a trip around Cape Breton some day.
If you've got a base model you have an entirely different transfer case. Yours would be a traditional mechanical drive. Mine has electronic actuated clutches that allow the slip auto 4x4 requires, but it has to slip before the front axle kicks in. The challenge is 1) once it slips it can be too late and 2) it still slips in 4 LOCK. There's tons of videos on the challenges of the BW 44-44 transfer case.

My 2002 Excursion, 2005 F350 or any 4x4 I've owned since 1980 would run circles around my Ram 1500 in the snow or mud or ice and it's not unique to my truck. The black fox kit makes it into a "normal" 4x4 with a locked transfer case.
 

Islander39er

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If you've got a base model you have an entirely different transfer case. Yours would be a traditional mechanical drive. Mine has electronic actuated clutches that allow the slip auto 4x4 requires, but it has to slip before the front axle kicks in. The challenge is 1) once it slips it can be too late and 2) it still slips in 4 LOCK. There's tons of videos on the challenges of the BW 44-44 transfer case.

My 2002 Excursion, 2005 F350 or any 4x4 I've owned since 1980 would run circles around my Ram 1500 in the snow or mud or ice and it's not unique to my truck. The black fox kit makes it into a "normal" 4x4 with a locked transfer case.
Okay, great explanation. I knew the auto 4x4 was a different transfer case, but I guess I hadn't fully understood all the differences till now. I'll look for a couple of those videos when I have a chance.
 

Adamcr68

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So I searched the forum for a thread like this and didn't find anything. I figured it would be fun to have a thread that everyone can watch what everyone is doing each week.

This week I put on Steelcraft nerf bars, and right now I'm getting the permaplating put on the truck. This way it gets a real good bath.
[/QUOTE
Weighed it, I had weighed it before, but didn’t do an axle weight.
I don’t tow anything currently, so more out of curiosity and not sure how accurate the axle weight is, tried to line it up between the doors.
Our truck scale weighs in 20# increments, so not exactly right, but I put my stamp on it to make
“official” and did a quick wash after.
 

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CanuckRam1313

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Further audio upgrades last week............

I have a pretty decent 2100W audio system in my truck that was professionally installed and tuned (total of 9 speakers, 2 subs, 2 amps, a 5-farad db digital capacitor, an upgraded head unit, an Odyssey H8 AGM battery, and additional ground cables throughout the vehicle, too).

However, during the previous deep cold snaps my R/F Focal door speaker took a dump.
I've had my current set up for almost 4-years and it is well loved and exercised, so it owed me zero! ;)

Anyhoooo... I had the same shop take out the front 2-way Focal speakers (6x9's in the doors and 1" tweets in the dash corners) and install the newest series line of Kicker KS Series51 2-way's with their 2.75" mid/tweet-combo dash speakers and their 6x9 door speakers, and had the newest series line of Kicker KS Series51 3-way 6x9's installed in the rear doors as well, and then a complete re-tune of the entire system.

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I love high fidelity detailed sound reproduction, and putting in these new Kickers has added a huge midrange-bass emphasis, plus the fronts have a more rich, full, and detailed sound now that fills the upper cabin so much more accurately vs the Focal's with just the tweets in the dash.

Wasn't cheap to do, but with my subs dialed into these new speakers my cabin is now like a dang symphony with Bach and Andrea Bocelli, a true hoo-down with country, a thundering freight train with rock/metal, a ghetto party with hip-hop/rap, and a burning-man epic rave with house/trance/techno...

I am now satisfied... and will be completely deaf in 2026 :favorites37:
 
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Gero

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Did a little maintenance on the ram. Front and rear diff fluid, xfer case fluid, new serp belt (gates fleetrunner), new tensioner and new roller. Also air filter and cabin filter.

I'll tackle the sparkplugs and waterpump, coolant and thermostat this summer.1000048514.jpg1000048515.jpg1000048544.jpg

I also took the liner off the driver rear wheel well to clean it. This definitely needs to be done every 2 or 3 years. My passenger side has a little rust starting:( i ordered some por15 and will tackle that when the weather gets nicer.

1000048407.jpg1000048408.jpg
 

PA Ram

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Did a little maintenance on the ram. Front and rear diff fluid, xfer case fluid, new serp belt (gates fleetrunner), new tensioner and new roller. Also air filter and cabin filter.

I'll tackle the sparkplugs and waterpump, coolant and thermostat this summer.View attachment 581089View attachment 581090View attachment 581091

I also took the liner off the driver rear wheel well to clean it. This definitely needs to be done every 2 or 3 years. My passenger side has a little rust starting:( i ordered some por15 and will tackle that when the weather gets nicer.

View attachment 581092View attachment 581093
Man, you have a lift in your garage?
 

Adamcr68

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So I searched the forum for a thread like this and didn't find anything. I figured it would be fun to have a thread that everyone can watch what everyone is doing each week.

This week I put on Steelcraft nerf bars, and right now I'm getting the permaplating put on the truck. This way it gets a real good bath.
Washed and waxed my truck, calling for rain Monday but I wanted to get a coat of wax before the pollen explosion.
My truck still clean up and looks good IMO, but like its owner, looks better from a distance.
I find myself taking pic’s from farther away as my truck ages
 

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MAJ_Charlie

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Yesterday I removed the Borla S-type exhaust that was installed last month and installed an AWE OFG Exhaust. Found the sound I was looking for. When your under the hood upgrades mean business...your exhaust should too!

https://youtu.be/boBCswdXBVM

This was the very first start upon completion of the install.


This was the 'walk around' segment. Driving around it has a sound character that is an attention getter outside, but quiet on the inside. I ran it today at various speeds and loads with absolutely zero drone at cruise.

The Borla, though an excellent exhaust, just didn't have the sound I was looking for so I'll be offering it up in the "for sale" section.
 

Jacob Maguire

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MAJ_Charlie, sounds great.
I found a small coolant puddle under driver side front of truck when walked out to truck after work on Friday. Got home and located the source. New radiator, belt, t-stat and antifreeze purchased Friday night. Swapped out the bad for the good Sat morning. While system was dry, I figured best time I could replace a failed-open coolant bypass valve. Sadly, replacement I chose from Rock Auto was slightly incorrect using a different connector. Removed some material allowing the connection but still getting a code similar to what I originally got regarding the bypass valve. Fortunately it too is 'open' and I was able to burp air from system, confirm heater core flow is good and interior heat strong. Re-ordered the correct coolant bypass valve and believe it will be delivered before I get home from work. Fingers cross I can nip this in the bud tonight.


Arrow shows source; drip line goes behind fan shroud bracket and is circled
Screenshot_95.jpg

Stuck petcock required a little 'encouragement' to release coolant.
Screenshot_96.jpg

Screenshot_97.jpg
 

MAJ_Charlie

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MAJ_Charlie, sounds great.
I found a small coolant puddle under driver side front of truck when walked out to truck after work on Friday. Got home and located the source. New radiator, belt, t-stat and antifreeze purchased Friday night. Swapped out the bad for the good Sat morning. While system was dry, I figured best time I could replace a failed-open coolant bypass valve. Sadly, replacement I chose from Rock Auto was slightly incorrect using a different connector. Removed some material allowing the connection but still getting a code similar to what I originally got regarding the bypass valve. Fortunately it too is 'open' and I was able to burp air from system, confirm heater core flow is good and interior heat strong. Re-ordered the correct coolant bypass valve and believe it will be delivered before I get home from work. Fingers cross I can nip this in the bud tonight.

JM, doesn't sound like you had a fun time. Can't say I've had this issue before thankfully. GL with your repairs. I noticed in your signature block you're running a Carven Progressive. I had one on my 2012 RAM and it was great until I went to LT headers then it was way to raspy for me.
 

Jacob Maguire

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All good super fun for me and I tell myself these situations are 'forced upgrades/refreshes'! My friends and family are aware of this and take full advantage!

UPDATE: Swapped out the incorrect EconDiesel bypass valve for the correct one and fired her up. Attempted to clear codes via Banks Power iDash but didn't remove. Monitored temps and confirmed the 192-Tstat opened as temps reached 202. Dropped down to 186 and maintained temps for 10 minutes then shut her down. Let her heat soak for a an hour-ish then did a short road test and temps were stable. Shut her down and had to get ready for Tuesday. Truck stayed home today but tonight I will retry to clear the coolant bypass codes again. Updates to follow.

Then onto fuel pressure sensor replacement to address that code!
Then DB Diesel manifolds/4 bolt extraction.
Then finish interior lighting project.
Then get Putco blades ordered for grille lights.
Then .... and on and on... : )

Fortunately my lady surprised me with a new ratchet; makes these task a little easier and slightly more fun : )
 

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PA Ram

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Towed the camper for the 1st time since I put her to sleep at the end of October. Had to drop off for inspection since I am going camping in a little over a week. Steering starting acting up a few weeks ago and I'm fairly certain it's the lower intermediate steering shaft. I bought a dorman shaft via Amazon a few weeks ago,but decided to spray the shaft and reset steering pull compensation. The last 2 weeks I had zero issues and was thinking of sending the part back before the 30 day window closed. Right after I pulled out of my driveway the steering got difficult again and no return. Felt like power steering loss. Sprayed and reset steering pull compensation again and seems okay until I can change the shaft. Seems mechanical so hoping that it's just binding up. And not my eps rack going bad. Anyone run into similar issue? I'm not getting any codes in bcm or steering control unit.
 
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aszumilo

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Had a reverse light go out, so, got some bulbs and went to replace them. When i got the tail lights assemblies out, I noticed that the brake light/turn signal sockets looked like they were burnt, Deep dark brown, where it should have be white. So, decided to replace them, since they were 15 years old. Went to O'reilly's and they had 1. Went to another and thought, maybe I should replace the reverse light sockets as well. That store had the brake socket and 1 reverse light socket. Off to a 3rd store for the 2nd reverse light socket. Spent more time driving around than it took to replace all 4 sockets.

Part numbers in case anyone needs
Brake light socket - Dorman 645-118 (about $11.50 each)
Reverse light socket - Standard Ignition S-2290 (about $13.50 each)
 
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