Why not just use blocks for leveling front end?

[Tracy in IL]

I try to read all the threads on front end leveling. Seems like majority of people go the whole route with new springs, shocks, arms/rods, etc. If all we're looking for is a 1-1/2" to 2" lift, what is the negatives for just installing a set of blocks under the spring, and getting an alignment done?

 

[BOWERSFJ]

No, the majority do Bil 5100’s ... The rest do top spacers


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[OnSale]

I try to read all the threads on front end leveling. Seems like majority of people go the whole route with new springs, shocks, arms/rods, etc. If all we're looking for is a 1-1/2" to 2" lift, what is the negatives for just installing a set of blocks under the spring, and getting an alignment done?

Because it alters the length the coils and shocks can travel, aswell as making it a stiffer ride and less comfortable. The shocks and coils are designed so at stock height, they travel a certain length when hitting bumps, and there is a certain amount of resistance when they expand and contract. Add in a 2”-3” level kit spacer and now the “resting height” for the shock and coil is altered and no longer where it should be, thus allowing less travel and they react differently to bumps and potholes.


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[MidTennMtneer]

Ride quality mainly. On the Rams you'd place a spacer on top of the spring. This kills the ride in my opinion as well as changes the angle of the ball joint on the UCA to an unfavorable one.

Bilsteins that many use (myself included) don't change that angle as much and I think it increases the ride quality over stock. Even with my bigger Ridge Grapplers my ride compares to stock.

You can change the shocks and keep stock spring and UCA. Long as you don't run it rough it'll be fine.

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[crazykid1994]

Preload spacers vs leveling struts vs top strut spacers. pros and cons
Preload spacer
pros: Cheap, keeps stock characteristics with a higher ride height
Con: can be harsh or uncomfortable because you have modified the struts to be outside of factory ride height parameters
Leveling struts
Pros: adjust ride height and are designed to operate at such parameters comfortably within factory specs
Cons: more expensive
Strut top spacer
Pros: cheap and are designed to maintain a factory ride
Cons: do not keep factory suspension specs, push the full suspension down farther which can bind up the suspension or cause issues and premature wear and failure of parts.

 

[ram1500rsm]

Top spacers should not kill the ride per se, at least not in an application that will only see flat roads, but top spacers can kill other components like UCA's, CV axels etc the higher the top spacer is because you're over extending those components past the point where they were designed to operate and in case you're cycling your struts fast you can find your strut bumpstop way quicker cause everything has been relocated down of where it should be originally. Imagine riding on Timbren bumstops with a heavy enough load your bumpstops are only 1" away from the pads. When you hit a pothole, you'll feel that sumbitch hitting the pad hard.

Preload spacers are more forgiven as you're not chaging the physical lenght of the strut, but they can affect the way your vehicle feels and ride depending how much preload you add to your springs. You could either max out your struts in full extension without having enough rebound control to prevent the over extension shot and you can also force the springs to bind too quick and find the other side of the strut bumpstop too fast without the needed compression control.

Preload spacers are basically the concept used by Bistein 5100 or any other adjustable struts or Coilovers to achieve lift height. in both instances the dampener is designed to work with preload better than what the stockers will. You could add a small preload spacer for extra lift. Most cases 1" should work just fine i just don't think you can find smaller preload spacers like that in our application? Just like adding 1/2" top spacers can help in certain conditions to achieve lift without overextending your stuff in a bad way. Problem is when you just want lift the cheap way and you use big blocks to attain that. Just because she's going up in height doesn't mean she'll ride and last the same as she did stock. Lot of options to choose from, some will damage stuff up. just the nature of the game.

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

Yeeep .. I have been toying with the idea of adding a 1" or 2" coil spacer to my front end with the 7" Maxtrac just a bit concerned about the angles and the UCAs .... If I could or can get away with doing this and not doing the 3" body lift I will and then add a 2" inch spacer in the rear instead of the 1.5" spacer it has now .... what do you guys think about adding a 1" or 2" spacer up front on a 2wd with just a spindle lift ?

 

[MoPowered]

And you never, I repeat never put blocks on a solid front axle, there are too many rotational factors that come into play with axle tube flex, not too mention one day needing to smash the brakes in an emergency and all that forward momentum would just spit the blocks out.
So far as Bilstiens, strut top spacers easiest most economical choice and very durable. Preload spacers on the other hand should be avoided. When you take apart your strut and place a spacer between the strut top and springs you’re causing a preload, “hence the term” by compressing the spring which is not good and will actually make the ride worse not better.

 

[GRN69CHV]

Installed a 1.5" (1" thick) spacer on my '16, probably could've went with a 2" (1.3" thick spacer) and been ok. I checked how far the front suspension would extend before the upper ball joint was at it's limit, I'm comfortable with the 1" top spacer. Between the travel limit of the lower control arm and travel limit of the sway bar with the exception of extreme off road, the front suspension is highly unlikely to ever reach that full extension, if it does (ie. huge pothole) you're probably replacing a damaged wheel also.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

I try to read all the threads on front end leveling. Seems like majority of people go the whole route with new springs, shocks, arms/rods, etc. If all we're looking for is a 1-1/2" to 2" lift, what is the negatives for just installing a set of blocks under the spring, and getting an alignment done?

Are we talking about the 1500 or 2500?

 

[Tracy in IL]

Are we talking about the 1500 or 2500?

2017 Ram 1500

 

[Quick_Shifter]

2017 Ram 1500

If you want in expensive go bilstein 5100’s and set them at the height you want. The top hat spacers are hit or miss and the preload leveling spacers are junk. Everything is more expensive the second time you do it