Xyleff
Senior Member
I have a 2014 1500 w/factory projectors. Im looking into HID kits but don’t know which to get between the 35w or 55w. Does it matter?? Also, I don’t have alfaobd and have no plans to get it. Will this be an issue?
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HID kits can be found in the same price range as LED retrofits.I honestly would get plug in play LED bulbs 55w or under 6500k color 10,000 lumen or so without balist. In my opinion HIDs kits are expensive and are crap. I did a LED swap in all my vehicles and never had issues. Those balist fail a lot. The LED bulb kits run $35-$135 depending on the brands. Most headlight wire harnesses are 55w so don’t go any higher then that. Is your headlights integrated or bulb swap? Again it’s just my opinion and never had issues with LED bulbs and always had issues with HIDs
Not true,HID kits can be found in the same price range as LED retrofits.
While everything can fail, I've heard very little about HID lamps or their ballast failing. What sources are you using?
If the OP has projector headlamps, he will battle an LED configuration that will light his path. If he has reflector headlamps, then HIDs will blind oncoming traffic.
The issue
OP - The issue between 35 watts and 55 watts isn't noticeable, even when comparing side by side. The color temperature of the light you select is and will make a remarkable difference in your lighting. The conditions you drive in will choose the best light color temperature. For myself, I go with HIDs in the 4,300 to 5,000 Kelvin because I drive a lot of unlit dirt roads and black asphalt roads and often in the rain. Color temperature is usually rated in Kelvins with a number between 4,300 and 5,000 Kelvin being ideal for vehicle lighting. The higher the Kelvin temperature the bluers the light gets. Going the other way the light heads towards a red direction. 2,700 Kelvin is ideal for fog lamps because the color temperature is capable of penetrating the fog.
Most OEM LED lamps fall into the 6,000 Kelvin temperate range albeit later technologies have allowed designers to get lower Kelvin numbers for LED lighting.
View attachment 536185
Bulb swap. I’ve looked into LED but i have projectors. Is that what you have with the LEDS?I honestly would get plug in play LED bulbs 55w or under 6500k color 10,000 lumen or so without balist. In my opinion HIDs kits are expensive and are crap. I did a LED swap in all my vehicles and never had issues. Those balist fail a lot. The LED bulb kits run $35-$135 depending on the brands. Most headlight wire harnesses are 55w so don’t go any higher then that. Is your headlights integrated or bulb swap? Again it’s just my opinion and never had issues with LED bulbs and always had issues with HIDs
Preferably 5000k lows and 3000k fogs for me. My concern between the 35w and 55w was the heat, if that would be any issue.HID kits can be found in the same price range as LED retrofits.
While everything can fail, I've heard very little about HID lamps or their ballast failing. What sources are you using?
If the OP has projector headlamps, he will battle an LED configuration that will light his path. If he has reflector headlamps, then HIDs will blind oncoming traffic.
OP - The issue between 35 watts and 55 watts isn't noticeable, even when comparing side by side. The color temperature of the light you select is and will make a remarkable difference in your lighting. The conditions you drive in will choose the best light color temperature. For myself, I go with HIDs in the 4,300 to 5,000 Kelvin because I drive a lot of unlit dirt roads and black asphalt roads and often in the rain. Color temperature is usually rated in Kelvins with a number between 4,300 and 5,000 Kelvin being ideal for vehicle lighting. The higher the Kelvin temperature the bluers the light gets. Going the other way the light heads towards a red direction. 2,700 Kelvin is ideal for fog lamps because the color temperature is capable of penetrating the fog.
Most OEM LED lamps fall into the 6,000 Kelvin temperate range albeit later technologies have allowed designers to get lower Kelvin numbers for LED lighting.
View attachment 536185
did you do setting changes in the bcm for headlights to “HIDS” or straight plug and play?Not true,
I ran the mori 55w kit for years in stock projectors, loved them!
I had my light retrofit with D2S 5.0's and went with new 35 kits (age on the old ones) and honestly was not blown away with the output.
Swapped back to the 55's and wow, there is the output I was used too! Swapped the new 35W for new 55w and have not looked back!
I did the full Mori kit including the Mopar harness. No issues other than a relay over the past 5+ yearsdid you do setting changes in the bcm for headlights to “HIDS” or straight plug and play?
Mine is a 2014. But will check them out. ThanksI did the full Mori kit including the Mopar harness. No issues other than a relay over the past 5+ years
thanks. Very informative. Trying to get by without having to get alfaobd.2017 factory projector's running
Low beam: GTR 55w Ultra H.I.D.'s (6,000k)
High beam: GTR CSP Mini LED Bulb
Fog lights: Diode Dynamics SS3 LED fog light kit(s) -- SAE/DOT -- Max (beam)
I _did_ use AlphaOBD to change all of the settings tho:
- H.I.D.'s for my low beams
- L.E.D.'s for high beam
- L.E.D.'s for fog lights
- Also had to turn off the feature that turns on your headlights when you unlock the vehicle -- (I believe this fried my ballast as it would flicker the lights multiple times! )
I also used anti-flicker modules for the L.E.D.'s just because I wanted to be 100% sure I wasn't going to have any issues.
I had one ballast go bad within a year... but HR replaced it for free... their customer service has been stellar (so far!). I wouldn't want my lights and different! It's all bright white light up front now!
2017 factory projector's running
Low beam: GTR 55w Ultra H.I.D.'s (6,000k)
High beam: GTR CSP Mini LED Bulb
Fog lights: Diode Dynamics SS3 LED fog light kit(s) -- SAE/DOT -- Max (beam)
I _did_ use AlphaOBD to change all of the settings tho:
- H.I.D.'s for my low beams
- L.E.D.'s for high beam
- L.E.D.'s for fog lights
- Also had to turn off the feature that turns on your headlights when you unlock the vehicle -- (I believe this fried my ballast as it would flicker the lights multiple times! )
I also used anti-flicker modules for the L.E.D.'s just because I wanted to be 100% sure I wasn't going to have any issues.
I had one ballast go bad within a year... but HR replaced it for free... their customer service has been stellar (so far!). I wouldn't want my lights and different! It's all bright white light up front now!
No I actually have the halogen headlight set up which I can swap to LED bulbs. I’m not sure about the project headlight bezels. My buddy did the LED swap to his 2018 Chevy 3500 LT with projectors and halogen set up and they look way better. I think it depends on the make and model that makes a difference honestly.Bulb swap. I’ve looked into LED but i have projectors. Is that what you have with the LEDS?
I converted my 2016 Ram quad headlights to HIDs. I run a total of four HID Bi-Xenon 55w projectors, 4500K Bulbs. All four turn on for low beams and all four turn on for high beams. Did this in 01/2018 and have never encountered any heat problems.Preferably 5000k lows and 3000k fogs for me. My concern between the 35w and 55w was the heat, if that would be any issue.
Have you had any issues with the bulbs going out or had to replace since converting?I converted my 2016 Ram quad headlights to HIDs. I run a total of four HID Bi-Xenon 55w projectors, 4500K Bulbs. All four turn on for low beams and all four turn on for high beams. Did this in 01/2018 and have never encountered any heat problems.
No bulb problems.Have you had any issues with the bulbs going out or had to replace since converting?