35w or 55w HIDS

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Xyleff

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I have a 2014 1500 w/factory projectors. Im looking into HID kits but don’t know which to get between the 35w or 55w. Does it matter?? Also, I don’t have alfaobd and have no plans to get it. Will this be an issue?
 

Ram2300

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I honestly would get plug in play LED bulbs 55w or under 6500k color 10,000 lumen or so without balist. In my opinion HIDs kits are expensive and are crap. I did a LED swap in all my vehicles and never had issues. Those balist fail a lot. The LED bulb kits run $35-$135 depending on the brands. Most headlight wire harnesses are 55w so don’t go any higher then that. Is your headlights integrated or bulb swap? Again it’s just my opinion and never had issues with LED bulbs and always had issues with HIDs
 

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I honestly would get plug in play LED bulbs 55w or under 6500k color 10,000 lumen or so without balist. In my opinion HIDs kits are expensive and are crap. I did a LED swap in all my vehicles and never had issues. Those balist fail a lot. The LED bulb kits run $35-$135 depending on the brands. Most headlight wire harnesses are 55w so don’t go any higher then that. Is your headlights integrated or bulb swap? Again it’s just my opinion and never had issues with LED bulbs and always had issues with HIDs
HID kits can be found in the same price range as LED retrofits.
While everything can fail, I've heard very little about HID lamps or their ballast failing. What sources are you using?
If the OP has projector headlamps, he will battle an LED configuration that will light his path. If he has reflector headlamps, then HIDs will blind oncoming traffic.

OP - The issue between 35 watts and 55 watts isn't noticeable, even when comparing side by side. The color temperature of the light you select is and will make a remarkable difference in your lighting. The conditions you drive in will choose the best light color temperature. For myself, I go with HIDs in the 4,300 to 5,000 Kelvin because I drive a lot of unlit dirt roads and black asphalt roads and often in the rain. Color temperature is usually rated in Kelvins with a number between 4,300 and 5,000 Kelvin being ideal for vehicle lighting. The higher the Kelvin temperature the bluers the light gets. Going the other way the light heads towards a red direction. 2,700 Kelvin is ideal for fog lamps because the color temperature is capable of penetrating the fog.

Most OEM LED lamps fall into the 6,000 Kelvin temperate range albeit later technologies have allowed designers to get lower Kelvin numbers for LED lighting.

1706267796817.png
 

16WhiteQC

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HID kits can be found in the same price range as LED retrofits.
While everything can fail, I've heard very little about HID lamps or their ballast failing. What sources are you using?
If the OP has projector headlamps, he will battle an LED configuration that will light his path. If he has reflector headlamps, then HIDs will blind oncoming traffic.
The issue


OP - The issue between 35 watts and 55 watts isn't noticeable, even when comparing side by side. The color temperature of the light you select is and will make a remarkable difference in your lighting. The conditions you drive in will choose the best light color temperature. For myself, I go with HIDs in the 4,300 to 5,000 Kelvin because I drive a lot of unlit dirt roads and black asphalt roads and often in the rain. Color temperature is usually rated in Kelvins with a number between 4,300 and 5,000 Kelvin being ideal for vehicle lighting. The higher the Kelvin temperature the bluers the light gets. Going the other way the light heads towards a red direction. 2,700 Kelvin is ideal for fog lamps because the color temperature is capable of penetrating the fog.

Most OEM LED lamps fall into the 6,000 Kelvin temperate range albeit later technologies have allowed designers to get lower Kelvin numbers for LED lighting.

View attachment 536185
Not true,

I ran the mori 55w kit for years in stock projectors, loved them!

I had my light retrofit with D2S 5.0's and went with new 35 kits (age on the old ones) and honestly was not blown away with the output.

Swapped back to the 55's and wow, there is the output I was used too! Swapped the new 35W for new 55w and have not looked back!
 
OP
OP
Xyleff

Xyleff

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I honestly would get plug in play LED bulbs 55w or under 6500k color 10,000 lumen or so without balist. In my opinion HIDs kits are expensive and are crap. I did a LED swap in all my vehicles and never had issues. Those balist fail a lot. The LED bulb kits run $35-$135 depending on the brands. Most headlight wire harnesses are 55w so don’t go any higher then that. Is your headlights integrated or bulb swap? Again it’s just my opinion and never had issues with LED bulbs and always had issues with HIDs
Bulb swap. I’ve looked into LED but i have projectors. Is that what you have with the LEDS?
 

Ramulus

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Same here, running FX-R projectors, Morimoto 50W ballasts with genuine D2S OSRAM bulbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0771VZ353?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Even though bulbs are rated up to 7K, the light output with the 50w ballast is pure white almost closer to 5K. They are much brighter than the 35w XenonDepot ballasts and Morimoto bulbs I ran prior. I briefly tried Innovited 35w ballasts on the Xenarc bulbs and they were way too blue.

The stock projectors weren't meant for HID or LED, but out of those options the HID will give you more usable light output.
 
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Xyleff

Xyleff

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HID kits can be found in the same price range as LED retrofits.
While everything can fail, I've heard very little about HID lamps or their ballast failing. What sources are you using?
If the OP has projector headlamps, he will battle an LED configuration that will light his path. If he has reflector headlamps, then HIDs will blind oncoming traffic.

OP - The issue between 35 watts and 55 watts isn't noticeable, even when comparing side by side. The color temperature of the light you select is and will make a remarkable difference in your lighting. The conditions you drive in will choose the best light color temperature. For myself, I go with HIDs in the 4,300 to 5,000 Kelvin because I drive a lot of unlit dirt roads and black asphalt roads and often in the rain. Color temperature is usually rated in Kelvins with a number between 4,300 and 5,000 Kelvin being ideal for vehicle lighting. The higher the Kelvin temperature the bluers the light gets. Going the other way the light heads towards a red direction. 2,700 Kelvin is ideal for fog lamps because the color temperature is capable of penetrating the fog.

Most OEM LED lamps fall into the 6,000 Kelvin temperate range albeit later technologies have allowed designers to get lower Kelvin numbers for LED lighting.

View attachment 536185
Preferably 5000k lows and 3000k fogs for me. My concern between the 35w and 55w was the heat, if that would be any issue.
 
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Xyleff

Xyleff

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Not true,

I ran the mori 55w kit for years in stock projectors, loved them!

I had my light retrofit with D2S 5.0's and went with new 35 kits (age on the old ones) and honestly was not blown away with the output.

Swapped back to the 55's and wow, there is the output I was used too! Swapped the new 35W for new 55w and have not looked back!
did you do setting changes in the bcm for headlights to “HIDS” or straight plug and play?
 

One Mile Up

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Low beam: GTR 55w Ultra H.I.D.'s (6,000k)
High beam: GTR CSP Mini LED Bulb
Fog lights: Diode Dynamics SS3 LED fog light kit(s) -- SAE/DOT -- Max (beam)

I _did_ use AlphaOBD to change all of the settings tho:
- H.I.D.'s for my low beams
- L.E.D.'s for high beam
- L.E.D.'s for fog lights
- Also had to turn off the feature that turns on your headlights when you unlock the vehicle -- (I believe this fried my ballast as it would flicker the lights multiple times! :rolleyes:)

I also used anti-flicker modules for the L.E.D.'s just because I wanted to be 100% sure I wasn't going to have any issues.
I had one ballast go bad within a year... but HR replaced it for free... their customer service has been stellar (so far!). I wouldn't want my lights any different! It's all bright white light up front now! :cheers:
 
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Xyleff

Xyleff

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2017 factory projector's running
Low beam: GTR 55w Ultra H.I.D.'s (6,000k)
High beam: GTR CSP Mini LED Bulb
Fog lights: Diode Dynamics SS3 LED fog light kit(s) -- SAE/DOT -- Max (beam)

I _did_ use AlphaOBD to change all of the settings tho:
- H.I.D.'s for my low beams
- L.E.D.'s for high beam
- L.E.D.'s for fog lights
- Also had to turn off the feature that turns on your headlights when you unlock the vehicle -- (I believe this fried my ballast as it would flicker the lights multiple times! :rolleyes:)

I also used anti-flicker modules for the L.E.D.'s just because I wanted to be 100% sure I wasn't going to have any issues.
I had one ballast go bad within a year... but HR replaced it for free... their customer service has been stellar (so far!). I wouldn't want my lights and different! It's all bright white light up front now! :cheers:
thanks. Very informative. Trying to get by without having to get alfaobd.
 

Ramulus

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2017 factory projector's running
Low beam: GTR 55w Ultra H.I.D.'s (6,000k)
High beam: GTR CSP Mini LED Bulb
Fog lights: Diode Dynamics SS3 LED fog light kit(s) -- SAE/DOT -- Max (beam)

I _did_ use AlphaOBD to change all of the settings tho:
- H.I.D.'s for my low beams
- L.E.D.'s for high beam
- L.E.D.'s for fog lights
- Also had to turn off the feature that turns on your headlights when you unlock the vehicle -- (I believe this fried my ballast as it would flicker the lights multiple times! :rolleyes:)

I also used anti-flicker modules for the L.E.D.'s just because I wanted to be 100% sure I wasn't going to have any issues.
I had one ballast go bad within a year... but HR replaced it for free... their customer service has been stellar (so far!). I wouldn't want my lights and different! It's all bright white light up front now! :cheers:

FYI I have the SS3 Sport fogs and set fogs to LED in Alfa. No anti-flicker or canbus modules used. No errors yet. I've had several canbus modules go bad on me, so good riddance to those. I think Diode Dynamics makes a good one though if you must use a canbus module.
 

Ram2300

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Bulb swap. I’ve looked into LED but i have projectors. Is that what you have with the LEDS?
No I actually have the halogen headlight set up which I can swap to LED bulbs. I’m not sure about the project headlight bezels. My buddy did the LED swap to his 2018 Chevy 3500 LT with projectors and halogen set up and they look way better. I think it depends on the make and model that makes a difference honestly.
 

Underground Lighting

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For the projector style headlight, HID is your best and brightest option. As for 35w or 55w you can do wither one. 55w will be a little brighter but will run hotter. Bulbs will not last as long. Quality kit is key.
We offer a true 35W HID kit plug and play error and flicker free. you do not need to code or program anything. A lot of members here are running with our hid kits for years with no issues. Pm us and we are always here to help.
 

John Jensen

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Preferably 5000k lows and 3000k fogs for me. My concern between the 35w and 55w was the heat, if that would be any issue.
I converted my 2016 Ram quad headlights to HIDs. I run a total of four HID Bi-Xenon 55w projectors, 4500K Bulbs. All four turn on for low beams and all four turn on for high beams. Did this in 01/2018 and have never encountered any heat problems.
 
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Xyleff

Xyleff

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I converted my 2016 Ram quad headlights to HIDs. I run a total of four HID Bi-Xenon 55w projectors, 4500K Bulbs. All four turn on for low beams and all four turn on for high beams. Did this in 01/2018 and have never encountered any heat problems.
Have you had any issues with the bulbs going out or had to replace since converting?
 

John Jensen

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Have you had any issues with the bulbs going out or had to replace since converting?
No bulb problems.
I had two ballasts go bad, they got water in them, the vendor replaced them. Two relays failed. Found it's not good to use cheap relays. Replaced all four with a better rely, no problems since.
 

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