Sllight tick day after new manifold bolts?

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boblazaar

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Hey All, as the title says, got my manifold bolts done on Thursday (Drivers side had 2 broken and passenger had 1). Does it take a day or three for the ticking to go away? Still have the slight tick noise...see attached video...

Oh, 2017 1500 Hemi ST, 85,000 km...


Is that another tick or normal Hemi noise??

Cheers
 

Burla

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Hey All, as the title says, got my manifold bolts done on Thursday (Drivers side had 2 broken and passenger had 1). Does it take a day or three for the ticking to go away? Still have the slight tick noise...see attached video...

Oh, 2017 1500 Hemi ST, 85,000 km...


Is that another tick or normal Hemi noise??

Cheers
my noise cancelling headphones doesnt hear much lifter tick there, which isnt saying it isnt possible, but I dont hear the raspy sewing machine sound. I would get a used oil analysis from blackstone just to verify the engine is wearing well to normal. If you want to make the uoa pay for itself, you can also get tbn for ten bucks and set your interval, meaning take the oil sample after 5k miles on oil, fill tube full, you have to add tbn. Someone says another lab does tbn free, look that up.

Does it always tick? If it always ticks like that, the clearances on exhaust mani is likely way off. If it ticks at warm idle and is bolt related that is rare. who did the work?
 
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boblazaar

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I'll look into the analysis!
It ony started ticking a few weeks ago, way worse than this. Local Mechanic confirmed it was the 3 broken bolts and replaced them all, gaskets etc. Sent him the video as well, will see what he says Monday.
Only ticks at start for a couple minutes.
 

Burla

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Yeah, that is bolt related. What happens is gaskets are in shrink position when cold, as they heat up they expand, tick goes away. I'm not even sure you want to fix that, maybe if he doubles up the gasket, but a true fix might be costly. And you don't want him messing with those bolts, you dont want him drilling holes, too many examples of an independent drilling coolant lines. I would think hard about what I wanted to do from here, I would go towards doing nothing to least aggressive before something that will cost good money.
 

A_mod_too_far

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Yeah, that is bolt related. What happens is gaskets are in shrink position when cold, as they heat up they expand, tick goes away. I'm not even sure you want to fix that, maybe if he doubles up the gasket, but a true fix might be costly. And you don't want him messing with those bolts, you dont want him drilling holes, too many examples of an independent drilling coolant lines. I would think hard about what I wanted to do from here, I would go towards doing nothing to least aggressive before something that will cost good money.
My cylinder head has a hole drilled into the oil galley for that exact reason, lmao
With the bolt in it is a very slow leak though
 
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boblazaar

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my noise cancelling headphones doesnt hear much lifter tick there, which isnt saying it isnt possible, but I dont hear the raspy sewing machine sound. I would get a used oil analysis from blackstone just to verify the engine is wearing well to normal. If you want to make the uoa pay for itself, you can also get tbn for ten bucks and set your interval, meaning take the oil sample after 5k miles on oil, fill tube full, you have to add tbn. Someone says another lab does tbn free, look that up.

Does it always tick? If it always ticks like that, the clearances on exhaust mani is likely way off. If it ticks at warm idle and is bolt related that is rare. who did the work?

Yeah, that is bolt related. What happens is gaskets are in shrink position when cold, as they heat up they expand, tick goes away. I'm not even sure you want to fix that, maybe if he doubles up the gasket, but a true fix might be costly. And you don't want him messing with those bolts, you dont want him drilling holes, too many examples of an independent drilling coolant lines. I would think hard about what I wanted to do from here, I would go towards doing nothing to least aggressive before something that will cost good money.
Thanks Burla! Since it isn't throwing codes and isn't a safety issue, I will most likely leave it alone. See what the shop says and I'll update here!

Thanks all!
 

indept

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Thanks Burla! Since it isn't throwing codes and isn't a safety issue, I will most likely leave it alone. See what the shop says and I'll update here!

Thanks all!
If the shop says it's not an issue RUN AWAY. If there's still an exhaust leak the manifolds should be removed & machined flat BEFORE it breaks more bolts. I've seen posts here in the past that someone had broken bolts fixed only to have it happen again after a few years because they didn't fix the cause of it.
 

Burla

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I'm not sold on it being warped is why bolts break, there are two other possibilities, number one two different metals and sizes and two different cooling/shrinking rates. Secondly, the 4 gens took away some of the metal thickness on the mani's that third gens had, and notably to my knowledge third gens werent know for bad bolts? So yes it is possible it is warped, but also possible the warping condition will just happen again if you don't use a better exhaust. Esecially guys that tow with gas engine, guys in cold areas where after a long trip shut down engines with snow outside, etc. I am just not sure I would break open that can of worms if the issue is small. Now, if it is bad, yeah maybe you have to, but I would pick and chose based on level of discomfort. kinda like me and dentists, I don't go until my tooth has been hurting 24/7 for at least a week.
 

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indept

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I'm not sold on it being warped is why bolts break, there are two other possibilities, number one two different metals and sizes and two different cooling/shrinking rates. Secondly, the 4 gens took away some of the metal thickness on the mani's that third gens had, and notably to my knowledge third gens werent know for bad bolts? So yes it is possible it is warped, but also possible the warping condition will just happen again if you don't use a better exhaust. Esecially guys that tow with gas engine, guys in cold areas where after a long trip shut down engines with snow outside, etc. I am just not sure I would break open that can of worms if the issue is small. Now, if it is bad, yeah maybe you have to, but I would pick and chose based on level of discomfort. kinda like me and dentists, I don't go until my tooth has been hurting 24/7 for at least a week.
If it was just dissimilar metals then I would expect all hemi's to have broken bolts. Also some have replaced them with headers with good results so why wouldn't they break bolts too since the headers are steel? Not sure if they do any " break in" temperature cycling at the manifold factory but now that OP's truck has temp cycled them hopefully they're aged in so a resurface should fix it. I do recall some posts showing a 1/8" or more of warp so that's definitely a smoking gun.
 

Dusty

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If it was just dissimilar metals then I would expect all hemi's to have broken bolts. Also some have replaced them with headers with good results so why wouldn't they break bolts too since the headers are steel? Not sure if they do any " break in" temperature cycling at the manifold factory but now that OP's truck has temp cycled them hopefully they're aged in so a resurface should fix it. I do recall some posts showing a 1/8" or more of warp so that's definitely a smoking gun.
It's possible there is more than one reason. My tech. tells me he's replaced four or five manifolds on the passenger side for every one on the driver's side. He contributes it to rusted studs caused by road splash.

Maybe.

But all of the 4th gen exhaust hardware has been revised at least twice, three times for the gasket. So it sounds like they were chasing the problem or dealing with a vendor quality issue.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 85726 miles
 

blackbetty14

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I'm not sold on it being warped is why bolts break, there are two other possibilities, number one two different metals and sizes and two different cooling/shrinking rates. Secondly, the 4 gens took away some of the metal thickness on the mani's that third gens had, and notably to my knowledge third gens werent know for bad bolts? So yes it is possible it is warped, but also possible the warping condition will just happen again if you don't use a better exhaust. Esecially guys that tow with gas engine, guys in cold areas where after a long trip shut down engines with snow outside, etc. I am just not sure I would break open that can of worms if the issue is small. Now, if it is bad, yeah maybe you have to, but I would pick and chose based on level of discomfort. kinda like me and dentists, I don't go until my tooth has been hurting 24/7 for at least a week.
I think its a few things, LS motors are terrible at breaking exhaust bolts and fords. One thing in common is the 8mm or .315 bolt as LS motors have thin cast manifolds. Old SBC are 3/8" which is .375". Some motors I heard that don't have exhaust bolt issues I think are toyota which use 10mm or .394" which is slightly bigger than a 3/8" bolt. The stock 4th gen ram manifolds do warp... I pulled mine at 18k and they were already warped and pulled them again around 40k and they were over .060" warped. I never snapped a bolt though but thats bc at 18k miles I used remflex gaskets which compress. The OE graphite/stainless shield do not really compress and they are more of a MLS style gasket. I also agree on the dissimilar metals and expansion/contraction however just about every car these days has aluminum heads and cast iron or some kinda of fabbed steel/stainless exhaust manifold. I think it plays a roll but I think the bolts and the gasket are a bigger issue. Combine the warping of the manifolds, weight of cats and exhaust hanging off the rear of the manifolds with smaller bolts and non compressible gaskets and you get the tick. I now have shorties and ARP bolts but got my stock manifolds milled which is why I know how much they are warped.
 

Burla

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I do hope I can find that video of some ram mechanic who has the manifolds before the issue and the ones we see with the issue. Just to add to the info base, his theory wasnt dissimilar metals, but the removal of some material on the newer mani's that tend to have bolt issues.
 

Dusty

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I think its a few things, LS motors are terrible at breaking exhaust bolts and fords. One thing in common is the 8mm or .315 bolt as LS motors have thin cast manifolds. Old SBC are 3/8" which is .375". Some motors I heard that don't have exhaust bolt issues I think are toyota which use 10mm or .394" which is slightly bigger than a 3/8" bolt. The stock 4th gen ram manifolds do warp... I pulled mine at 18k and they were already warped and pulled them again around 40k and they were over .060" warped. I never snapped a bolt though but thats bc at 18k miles I used remflex gaskets which compress. The OE graphite/stainless shield do not really compress and they are more of a MLS style gasket. I also agree on the dissimilar metals and expansion/contraction however just about every car these days has aluminum heads and cast iron or some kinda of fabbed steel/stainless exhaust manifold. I think it plays a roll but I think the bolts and the gasket are a bigger issue. Combine the warping of the manifolds, weight of cats and exhaust hanging off the rear of the manifolds with smaller bolts and non compressible gaskets and you get the tick. I now have shorties and ARP bolts but got my stock manifolds milled which is why I know how much they are warped.
Since I have a Ford tech. as a neighbor, he says Superduties (usually) don't have a problem with broken exhaust studs. The manifolds just crack!

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 85726 miles
 

indept

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It's possible there is more than one reason. My tech. tells me he's replaced four or five manifolds on the passenger side for every one on the driver's side. He contributes it to rusted studs caused by road splash.

Maybe.

But all of the 4th gen exhaust hardware has been revised at least twice, three times for the gasket. So it sounds like they were chasing the problem or dealing with a vendor quality issue.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 85726 miles
True, the splashing on a hot manifold may be the cause of the warpage/ bolts breaking. That would also explain why some never break bolts, they rarely drive through sizable puddles.
 

indept

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Since I have a Ford tech. as a neighbor, he says Superduties (usually) don't have a problem with broken exhaust studs. The manifolds just crack!

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 85726 miles
I'd prefer that to broken bolts, it takes a lot longer to remove a few broken bolts vs just bolting on a new manifold. The cost of the manifold is probably a wash when you figure the labor to get broken bolts out.
 
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