Synthetic Oil

Burla said:

Whatever works should be considered imo. The good news about the way you killed your tick is that for sure it isnt a "mask" because things associated with that would be going thick instead of going thin. So whatever happened to your tick just by that action as long as the tick stays gone you fixed the issue. Like I was saying there is little risk to trying it, and perhaps some other benefits to doing so. Especially if you used it as a flush towards the end of an interval.

But also everything kyle was saying is 100% truth as well. So some ticks as in your tick can be killed by thinning and cleaning your oil with a solvent can kill some ticks. And for someone considering a more traditional approach would this not even be a good idea before even buying the redline or biotech? You can drive 50-100 miles as a flush, you can wait to see if this strategy works before even buying biotech or redline, if by chance all you needed was sea foam through the sump, boom you win. It still wouldnt be a bad idea once you have a tick to use ram forum developed strategies, even if sea foam solved it before even trying those, because those strategies include running known additives that help cams, in fact used to install all cams in the first place with the use of moly.

So even if sea foam works, then what becomes the question. And there is no such thing as sea foam not working, because you would have accomplished something by using it, at a minimum you used a gentle flush before you changed the oil, so benefit happens if hemi tick is gone or not. My definition of strategy is you put some thought into in based on science. So if you killed tick your strategy is whatever you say it is, and if it is castrol of whatever and it continues to keep hemi tick away, you win. Try some things, this is a legit choice, just another tool in the hemi tick tool box.

I should review my history because I had recently seen a vid where some guy made his hemi tick 80% "better" by adding lucas. Now, this is an example of masking, an example of something that can actually do more harm then good in the long run if it keeps you away from a solid strategy that actually fixes the situation. There are also more ways to test if a strategy worked or not then just hearing tick, you can also do uoa's, if you truly solved a hemi tick situation you will see wear numbers tumble from when you have hemi tick to when it's gone. So maybe the first thing someone with new tick should do, get a uoa, try some things, see what works to lower wear and keep the tick away.

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ramffml said:

One of the theories out there for causing tick is that the needle bearings get gummed/varnished up and either become slow to roll or eventually stop. I can definitely see how a cleaner would help in this situation.

Also some oils have exceptional cleaning ability, that is also an option as opposed to using seafoam which I understand is rather harsh on the system.

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Treburkulosis said:

Treburkulosis said:

When I did my tune up around 20k ago, I added biotech to mine as you recommended. It did make it run smoother Mine was still newish 57k when it happened. I would suspect the previous owner just ran it through a oil station and called it good. I dont think mine was that slugged at that time. Even at 160k it idles smoothly. Oil pressure stays around 40 psi close to 55-60 driving. I am not easy on it either. When the motor does finally let go, I am going to 6.4 swap it and have some fun. I have been reading up on the swap. I have no doubt this motor has a lot of life left in it.

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Treburkulosis said:

When I did my tune up around 20k ago, I added biotech to mine as you recommended. It did make it run smoother Mine was still newish 57k when it happened. I would suspect the previous owner just ran it through a oil station and called it good. I dont think mine was that slugged at that time. Even at 160k it idles smoothly. Oil pressure stays around 40 psi close to 55-60 driving. I am not easy on it either. When the motor does finally let go, I am going to 6.4 swap it and have some fun. I have been reading up on the swap. I have no doubt this motor has a lot of life left in it.

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You can double win if you give her h@ll and see what the 5.7 can do Then when it blows a rod thru the pan you can do your 6.4 swap!!!!

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Burla said:

Needle bearings are a small number of cam fail issues, but it brings up a great point, did the needle bearings fail first, or did downward pressure from lifters kill the bearings. Because we know for sure there is extra downward pressure on lifters causing cam damage, not really in question or shouldnt be imo. And since the needle bearings were "fixed" and beefed up in 2016 and their still is hemi tick and cam fails, makes you wonder. It is possible TB cleaned his needle bearings and that stopped his tick, but maybe it was something in the lifter bore creating downward pressure on the cam when it hits the lob that sea foam cleaned off. Both are possible, I'm not sure there can be many more reasons why that worked.

We know needle bearings are a small % because we know what that damage looks like with pitting, but it seams more cam fails are from slowly smoothed lobs. It may be true, and I said may, that needle bearings may never have been an issue, just one example of the many things that can happen with the lob hits the lifter and for whatever reason that lifter doesnt lift as smooth as it is supposed to. On the other hand if a truck is abused and the oil is not changed regularly, then just maybe those needle bearings siezed before the lob damage. Who knows maybe the previous owners on Tb's truck never changed the oil and indeed it was bad needle bearings and he literally saved his truck by adding a solvent. Maybe in that case not even known strategies would have been as good, because we know nothing is gonna clean like a solvent,

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U&A said:

How cool would that be. A luxury car with a hemi!!!!

What a shame…….that i cant have one.

2023 Chrysler 300C Debuts With 485 HP 6.4-Liter HEMI, Is the End of an Era

An SRT in everything except name

www.carvibz.com

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HEMIMANN said:

We don't have stats to document if or how effective the design / vendor change to lifters was in 2017, either. FCA was keeping everything quiet, so it's up to Forum's to help each other with best strategies.

You guys have been great.

Btw, since instant summer arrived (37 degrees to 90 degrees in less than a month), I finally got around to changing engine oil - from winter 0W-30 to summer 5W-30. Both Red Line, of course.

I had some Blackstone Laboratory Sample Kits laying around so figured what the hey and sent in a sample of the 0W-30 for UOA. It is original "API SN" formula, and only had 3,000 miles with limited towing, so probably won't mean anything to anybody. I guess the only thing I was looking for is any shear down in that recipe, so I sent in a sample of VOA too.

Kinda like analyzing horse and buggy oil, at this point.

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Burla said:

Whatever works should be considered imo. The good news about the way you killed your tick is that for sure it isnt a "mask" because things associated with that would be going thick instead of going thin. So whatever happened to your tick just by that action as long as the tick stays gone you fixed the issue. Like I was saying there is little risk to trying it, and perhaps some other benefits to doing so. Especially if you used it as a flush towards the end of an interval.

But also everything kyle was saying is 100% truth as well. So some ticks as in your tick can be killed by thinning and cleaning your oil with a solvent can kill some ticks. And for someone considering a more traditional approach would this not even be a good idea before even buying the redline or biotech? You can drive 50-100 miles as a flush, you can wait to see if this strategy works before even buying biotech or redline, if by chance all you needed was sea foam through the sump, boom you win. It still wouldnt be a bad idea once you have a tick to use ram forum developed strategies, even if sea foam solved it before even trying those, because those strategies include running known additives that help cams, in fact used to install all cams in the first place with the use of moly.

So even if sea foam works, then what becomes the question. And there is no such thing as sea foam not working, because you would have accomplished something by using it, at a minimum you used a gentle flush before you changed the oil, so benefit happens if hemi tick is gone or not. My definition of strategy is you put some thought into in based on science. So if you killed tick your strategy is whatever you say it is, and if it is castrol of whatever and it continues to keep hemi tick away, you win. Try some things, this is a legit choice, just another tool in the hemi tick tool box.

I should review my history because I had recently seen a vid where some guy made his hemi tick 80% "better" by adding lucas. Now, this is an example of masking, an example of something that can actually do more harm then good in the long run if it keeps you away from a solid strategy that actually fixes the situation. There are also more ways to test if a strategy worked or not then just hearing tick, you can also do uoa's, if you truly solved a hemi tick situation you will see wear numbers tumble from when you have hemi tick to when it's gone. So maybe the first thing someone with new tick should do, get a uoa, try some things, see what works to lower wear and keep the tick away.

Click to expand...

tjfdesmo said:

Ferd sure has their hands full with lifter failures on the 7.3 Godzilla. Some at really low miles.

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HEMIMANN said:

Wow.

I don't hear about lifter failures in Cummins redesigned ISB 6.7L engine with roller lifters for the 1st time. But I'm not as connected anymore being retired.

Also don't know what lifter Ford used for their latest diesel.

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ramffml said:

The Ford lifter issues are in the 7.3 gasser. It's on YT quite heavily, the entire cam lobe starts to delaminate.
The Ram 2500 has lifter issues just like our 5.7's
The GM 6.6 gasser burns a bit of oil in some rigs, and it's direct injection so I guess that engine is going to get dirty'ed up quite bad inside after a hundred thousand miles.

Unfortunately you guys are right; there is not a solid indestructible choice these days, gas or diesel.

It's pretty much a major reason I still have my truck. Where am I going to go, lol. Toyota? They only have turbo 6 bangers in their tundra now, and they ride like a covered wagon.

They also look like they were rammed into a guard rail repeatedly until they got the requiste wedges and angles they were after, so there's that too.

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Burla said:

Yes it is the OD and this will kill you, he gets 25 MPG with no emmisions, like wth are we doing wrong? lol

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Travis8352 said:

Duramax is quite good these days!

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