2014 5.7L Knock/Tick/Tap?

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Curt Gobbell

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I have a 2014 Ram Laramie Limited with the 5.7L Hemi with 145k on the truck. Today, out of the blue, it started ticking/tapping/knocking (not sure how to describe it).

Here is what I have diagnosed so far;
1. The noise matches engine speed
2. Same sound/volume in drive, neutral or reverse
3. Only hear it at idle and low speed. Can't hear it past 30 MPH (I believe it is still there, I just cant hear it)
4. The sound does not change tone/volume as I accelerate
5. I changed oil and put LUCAS stabilizer and 5w-20 in it and no change to the sound
6. I used an automotive stethoscope all around the engine and couldn't pin point the origin
7. No CEL codes per OBD reader
8. No codes/warnings on dash

I'm a pretty good mechanic, but I would appreciate your help before i start tearing it down. Would you guys watch the video and tell me what you think it is?

I recorded a walk-around here
 

Jtblackram

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Damn thats a tick and a half. Sounds like a bum lifter in some capacity. Strange that there wouldnt be a misfire code so im hesitant to say its that for sure. But i cant imagine much else that would make a sound like that, doesnt really sound like an exhaust leak
 

tidefan1967

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Sounds like a bad lifter/rounded off cam lobe for sure. That's exactly what my 2015 sounded like when the the cam/lifters went out on it. You will get a CEL eventually, it just might not be worn to that point yet but it won't probably take long. I would go ahead and pull the valve covers and check and see which valve isn't opening up as much as the others at a minimum or just go ahead and plan on tearing it down and replacing the cam/lifters.
 

ChevySlayer69

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Definitely lifter but does not mean cam is toast yet even if a rocker doesn't have much movement. Don't drive it. Pull valve covers, find the bad lifter, pull that head off and check cam with boroscope.
 

tron67j

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Broken exhaust manifold bolt or cracked exhaust manifold?
With the sudden appearance, I vote for this. Same thing happened on my last truck that had the 5.7. it was very hard to find, took repair shop two different appointments to finally find and then found three. Good luck.
 

daveray9

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When its the exhaust manifold bolts (at least when I have seen the issue the last 2 times) once the engine heats up to operating temp the noise goes away. If you go for a 15min ride and then pull over and still hear the noise... it isnt exhaust manifold bolts.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
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Curt Gobbell

Curt Gobbell

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Thank you all for your help and advice. I have 2 additional observations I would like to share (#9 and #10 below)

Here is what I have diagnosed so far;
1. The noise matches engine speed
2. Same sound/volume in drive, neutral or reverse
3. Only hear it at idle and low speed. Can't hear it past 30 MPH (I believe it is still there, I just cant hear it)
4. The sound does not change tone/volume as I accelerate
5. I changed oil and put LUCAS stabilizer and 5w-20 in it and no change to the sound
6. I used an automotive stethoscope all around the engine and couldn't pin point the origin
7. No CEL codes per OBD reader
8. No codes/warnings on dash
9. Given the knock count is ~300 per minute while idling (I confirmed this with 8 separate observations), and my truck idles ~700, that confirms the knock is top end (camshaft/lifters) as they turn 1/2 as often as the crank
10. When I start the engine, I do not hear the knock until the engine fires (i.e. the engine cranks over for several revolutions before first detonation and no knock is heard)
 

Burla

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So what makes it disappear at 30mph? You should be able to duplicate the rpm's at idle and see what rpm the tick goes away. I would only do it once to verify, then fix either the collapsed lifter or valve. Ran codes no misfire? If you keep driving it you risk a cam that may or may not be toast, and change oil warm and look for metal. Get lucas out of there.
 
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Curt Gobbell

Curt Gobbell

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So what makes it disappear at 30mph? You should be able to duplicate the rpm's at idle and see what rpm the tick goes away. I would only do it once to verify, then fix either the collapsed lifter or valve. Ran codes no misfire? If you keep driving it you risk a cam that may or may not be toast, and change oil warm and look for metal. Get lucas out of there.

Burla, I don't believe the knock/tap disappears above 30MPH, I just can't hear it over road noise, even with the windows down.
 

Burla

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Burla, I don't believe the knock/tap disappears above 30MPH, I just can't hear it over road noise, even with the windows down.

I understand, but pretty easy for someone to bring idle up to 3000 rpm's while parked to see if tick disappears. The reason I asked the cam is splashed lubricated, so if it truly goes away then the issue is less then it sounds. In that case it would just be lack of lubrication at idle or low rpm, and perhaps not something deeper. The engine needs to have codes read for sure as well, a mis fire will also alert you to the fact how fatal this is if at all.

I think in this case I would want to pull heads anyhow, and sooner rather then later.
 

PoMansRam

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I hear the noise over my device's speakers, but it's impossible to diagnose a noise that way.

I also hear everyone's concerns (and understand them) about the potential of cam/lifter problems here, but wouldn't you feel silly going through pulling everything off to get a valve cover off only to discover an exhaust manifold leak?

All I'm saying is, be sure it's not the simple stuff first. More often than not it is.
 

jws123

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Time for cam and lifters mine sounded exactly like this roller broke off of the lifter and ate the cam mine didnt have a misfire either. I am sure if I kept driving it it would of. This is a easy job if your a mechanically inclined i spent $1000 in parts and 2 days when I did mine.
 
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Curt Gobbell

Curt Gobbell

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Update to my knock/tap diagnosis...


I pulled the fuel pump fuse to keep the engine from detonating and cranked it over several times to see if I could hear the knock/tap during crank...and I can't. I may be that the starter noise is drowning out the knock or that the knock only occurs under detonation.

I'll pulling the valve covers, checking the plugs and checking the exhaust manifold bolts this weekend.

 

ChevySlayer69

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I don't think the engine spins fast enough when cranking for the potentially failing lifter to make noticeable noise slamming the cam but you're on the right track and hope the cam is still ok
 
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